Tools & materials
- Basic hand tools: ratchets (3/8" & 1/4"), metric & SAE socket set, extensions
- Torx/hex/allen bits as required by your vehicle (have a set)
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft·lb) and smaller inch‑lb or ft·lb range for valve body/fasteners
- Screwdrivers, picks, magnet pickup
- Clean transmission fluid drain pan, disposable rags, parts trays
- Transmission jack or floor jack + transmission support
- Jack stands or ramps and wheel chocks
- Brake cleaner / solvent and lint‑free shop towels
- New transmission filter, pan gasket or RTV (as required), O‑rings if any
- Replacement pushrod(s) OEM or matched aftermarket kit
- New ATF (ATF+4 for Chrysler/Jeep 42RLE), funnel, refill pump
- Gloves, safety glasses

Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock wheels. Use jack stands — never rely on a jack for support.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Transmission fluid is hot — allow the vehicle to cool.
- Keep electronics/cleaning solvents away from open transmission components to avoid contamination.
- Organize small parts (bolts, check balls, springs) in labeled trays — valve body parts are easy to lose and critical.

Overview
On the 42RLE the “pushrods” you’ll encounter are inside the valve body/accumulator area. Typical job: drop pan, remove filter, unbolt & lower valve body enough to access pushrods, inspect/replace pushrods and reinstall. Follow a methodical sequence and use the shop manual torque & bolt sequence where available.

Step‑by‑step
1) Prep and drain
- Raise vehicle, secure on stands, remove any crossmember/work obstructions if needed.
- Place drain pan under transmission. Remove transmission pan bolts in a phased pattern to control fluid loss; loosen one side first and let oil flow into pan.
- Remove pan and filter. Expect several quarts of ATF.

2) Clean & inspect pan and magnet
- Inspect magnet in pan for heavy metal debris (excess is a sign of wear). Clean pan and magnet; store pan bolts in a tray.

3) Lower valve body for access
- Unbolt valve body retaining bolts a few turns in a crisscross pattern; remove bolts and carefully lower the valve body just enough to see pushrods and accumulators. Support valve body on a transmission jack or use a support hook — do NOT let the valve body hang by wiring.
- Disconnect any solenoids/electrical connectors as required; label connectors if you’ll remove them.

4) Locate pushrods
- Identify the pushrods (they’ll be linear rods that actuate pistons or accumulators between the valve body and clutches/pistons). Take photos for orientation.
- Keep notes of any shims, springs, check balls or shrouds removed.

5) Remove old pushrods
- Carefully remove retaining clips or spring retainers if present. Use a magnet/pick to lift out pushrods straight up; avoid bending.
- Place each removed pushrod in an organized order matching its location.

6) Inspect components
- Inspect pushrods for scoring, bends, pitting, wear on the ends, and length deformation. Roll on a flat surface to check straightness.
- Inspect bore surfaces, piston faces, and seals for damage. Check valve body bores and check balls/springs for wear.
- If pushrods show any wear, replace them. Replace any damaged O‑rings, springs, check balls, or pistons.

7) Installing new pushrods
- If required, lightly lubricate pushrod ends with clean ATF (do NOT use heavy grease).
- Insert pushrods straight down into their bores. Ensure they seat properly on piston faces. Use a small socket or wooden dowel to press each rod in evenly — do not pry on edges or bend.
- If the rod assembly has a retaining clip or spring, reinstall in the factory orientation; some rods require a small snap ring — use appropriate pliers.

8) Valve body reinstallation
- Position valve body back into place carefully, ensuring no parts (check balls/springs) fall out of bores. Use photos/marks to align.
- Apply correct torque for valve body bolts per the shop manual (if you don’t have the manual: small valve body bolts are typically tightened in the 8–20 ft·lb range — verify exact spec). Tighten in a proper sequence (center to outside/crisscross) to avoid distortion.

9) Replace filter & pan gasket
- Install a new filter and pan gasket/RTV as required. Clean mating surfaces; torque pan bolts to spec (often 4–10 ft·lb depending on bolt size — check manual).

10) Refill and test
- Lower vehicle, refill with correct type and quantity of ATF (top off to the manufacturer’s spec; check level with engine warmed and running, selector cycling through gears per service procedure).
- Run the engine, cycle through gears, check for leaks. Road test and re‑check fluid level.

Tools usage details & tips
- Magnetic pickup: retrieve dropped bolts, check balls, or pushrods from bores/pan without contamination. Use gently to avoid dropping parts into deeper cavities.
- Torque wrench: tighten valve body and pan bolts to specified torque in staged patterns; do not overtighten — transmission fasteners strip easily.
- Transmission jack/strap: supports valve body weight while you remove/reinstall to prevent wire/connector damage.
- Small socket or wooden dowel: use as a straight pusher to seat pushrods evenly; never hammer or pry at an angle.
- Picks: remove small retaining clips carefully; store clips in labeled tray.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Pushrod set (OEM recommended)
- Transmission filter
- Pan gasket or RTV gasket maker
- O‑rings, seals, springs, check balls (if worn/missing)
- ATF+4 (fill & topoff)
- Valve body bolts if threads/damage present (inspect)

Common pitfalls — avoid these
- Losing check balls, springs, or tiny parts. Use trays and take photos before disassembly.
- Reusing a damaged filter or pan gasket — always replace.
- Contaminating valve body with dirt/fibers — work clean and use lint‑free towels.
- Bending pushrods by prying or forcing them at an angle — always push straight down to seat.
- Incorrect torque or sequence on valve body/pan bolts — leads to leaks or valve body distortion.
- Using wrong fluid (use ATF+4 only) or not checking fluid level after warm‑up and cycling.
- Failing to support valve body/let connectors hang — wiring stress causes failures later.
- Ignoring metal debris on pan magnet — large amounts require further diagnosis (clutch pack wear).

Final notes
- Always consult the factory service manual for exact bolt torque, tightening sequence, and fluid capacity/level procedure for your exact year/model 42RLE.
- If valve body bores, pistons, or housings are scored or the pushrod wear is significant, replace or rebuild to OEM specs — do not reuse damaged parts.

That’s the procedure.
rteeqp73

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