Hino Dutro WU and XZU Models Series Workshop Manual download
Hino Dutro WU: 300, 340, 410 and XZU: 404, 412, 414, 422, 424, 434, 305, 345 Series Factory Service Workshop Manual
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Engine S05C..B, S05C..TA and S05C..TB SERIES
W04D-J
N04C-TF
Model: WU: 300, 340, 410 or XZU: 404, 412, 414, 422, 424, 434, 305, 345
Manual Transmission
H350
H260
M150, M153
M550
Contents
Introduction
Preparation
Service Specification
Diagnostics
Engine control system
Fuel
Intake
Engine mechanical
Exhaust
Cooling
Lubrication
Starting & charging
Front suspension
Rear suspension
Tire & Wheel
Differential
Driveshaft /propeller shaft
Brake
Parking brake
Exhaust brake
Manual transmission/transaxle
Clutch
Steering column
Power steering
Manual steering
Heater & air conditioning
supplemental restraint system
Seat belt
Lighting
Wiper & washer
Audio & visual system
Wiring
Communication system
Windshield/windows/glass/mirrors
Instrument panel/meter
Seat
Theft deterrent& door lock
Engine hood/ door
Exterior/interior trim
Vehicle control system
Power take off
Alphabetical index
Hino WU: 300, 340, 410 and XZU: 404, 412, 414, 422, 424, 434, 305, 345 Series Factory Service Workshop Manual
1) Brief system theory (how the Hino Dutro exhaust works and why faults matter)
- Components: exhaust manifold → turbo (if fitted) → downpipe → catalytic converter → diesel particulate filter (DPF) and differential-pressure sensors → muffler/resonator → tailpipe; oxygen/temp/pressure sensors are placed to monitor combustion and filter performance.
- Functions: carry exhaust gases safely, control noise, convert/clean pollutants, and maintain backpressure needed for turbocharging and proper engine scavenging.
- Why faults matter: leaks or restrictions change backpressure and sensor readings. Leaks cause noise, unmetered air intake for upstream sensors, wrong fuel trim, poor idle, turbo inefficiency and higher emissions. Restrictions (clogged DPF/cat) raise backpressure, reducing power and increasing exhaust temperatures and engine load.
2) Common faults and the physics behind symptoms
- Exhaust leak at flange/joint: symptom — ticking/rumble, sooty residue at joint. Theory — escaping high-pressure gas raises noise, introduces oxygen upstream of sensors causing incorrect sensor voltages and lean/fuel-rich corrections.
- Cracked manifold/downpipe: symptom — noise under load, heat transfer to nearby components. Theory — same as leak but often hotter local temps causing damage.
- Faulty or clogged DPF: symptom — loss of power, high backpressure, warning lamp, frequent regen cycles. Theory — soot accumulation restricts flow, raising exhaust pressure and decreasing mass flow through turbo and engine.
- Damaged catalytic converter: symptom — poor emissions, overheating, rattling. Theory — substrate breakage causes flow restriction or ineffective conversion.
- Broken hangers/clamps: symptom — vibration, misalignment, accelerated wear and leaks. Theory — movement stresses joints and causes cracks.
- Faulty sensors (temp/pressure/O2): symptom — codes, poor fuel control. Theory — incorrect sensor signals lead ECU to alter fuel/air and regen strategies incorrectly.
3) Diagnostic sequence (ordered tests and the theory behind each)
1. Visual inspection cold and after a short run: look for soot, cracks, blown gaskets, loose clamps, broken hangers. Theory: soot marks locate leaks; movement/damage is visible.
2. Acoustic test: listen with a stethoscope or a length of pipe to isolate leak location. Theory: direct conduction isolates leak frequency.
3. Feel test (with gloved hand or mechanic’s stethoscope) near suspected seams while engine revs gently. Theory: pulsating flow indicates leak source.
4. Smoke test or pressure test: pressurize exhaust upstream and watch for leaks at joints. Theory: pressurization makes small leaks obvious.
5. Scan-tool check: read fault codes, DPF differential pressure, EGT and turbo boost. Theory: increased differential pressure = restriction; EGTs show backpressure/regen behavior.
6. Backpressure measurement: install a gauge upstream of DPF/cat and measure at idle and under load. Theory: compare to manufacturer limits to confirm restriction.
7. Thermal scan: compare temperatures before and after DPF/cat. Theory: proper conversion/regen shows expected temp rises; cold spots/low delta T indicate bypass or destruction.
8. Sensor testing: measure O2/NOx/pressure sensor voltages per manual. Theory: verify correct sensor operation before replacing major parts.
4) Repair sequence (ordered workshop actions with theory for each step and how the fix removes the fault)
Note: wear appropriate PPE, support vehicle securely, let exhaust cool. Follow factory torque specs for bolts; use new gaskets and anti-seize where recommended.
1. Prepare and secure vehicle
- Action: raise and support vehicle, disconnect battery if working near sensors/electrical, allow cool.
- Theory of fix: safe access prevents accidental damage or sensor misreads during repair.
2. Remove shielding and access panels
- Action: remove heat shields, undertrays to expose exhaust.
- Theory: needed for visual inspection and component access.
4. Support exhaust and unbolt at nearest flexible joints/clamps
- Action: support assembly with jack/stand, unbolt at flange or clamp to isolate faulty section (manifold flange, downpipe, DPF can). Use penetrating oil and proper sockets.
- Theory: isolating the exact section lets you replace the defective part without disturbing the rest; reducing movement prevents introducing new leaks.
5. Inspect removed parts and mating faces
- Action: examine gasket faces, flanges, FRP of DPF, weld cracks, hanger condition.
- Theory: identifying the root cause (worn bracket, corroded flange) prevents recurrence.
6. Replace consumables and failing parts
- Gaskets and clamps:
- Action: fit new multi-layer steel (MLS) or OEM gaskets, replace rusted bolts/clamps, use proper clamps for DPF connections.
- Theory: gaskets restore the seal preventing unmetered air and noise; clamps provide correct clamp force preventing leaks.
- Hangers/mounts:
- Action: replace worn rubber/metal hangers.
- Theory: restores proper alignment and prevents stress cracking.
- Downpipe/manifold/cat/DPF:
- Action: replace cracked manifold/downpipe or damaged catalytic substrate/DPF core as required. For DPF, consider cleaning/regeneration if within service limits; replace if damaged/blocked beyond regeneration.
- Theory: removing cracks or replacing clogged elements restores flow and correct backpressure, recovers turbo performance and corrects EGTs and ECU regen logic.
- Welding repairs:
- Action: if repairable, weld cracks with appropriate filler and material (match steel type—stainless for stainless sections). Grind and seal as needed.
- Theory: proper weld restores structural integrity and seals leak; wrong filler or poor weld causes early failure or galvanic corrosion.
- Sensors:
- Action: replace faulty O2/pressure/temperature sensors with OEM or specified equivalents.
- Theory: correct sensor signals are required for ECU fuel trim and regen decisions; bad sensors create incorrect strategies.
7. Reassemble with correct torque and orientation
- Action: clean mating surfaces, fit gaskets, tighten bolts evenly to specified torque, fit new self-locking nuts where required, apply anti-seize to sensor threads if allowed, orient DPF flow arrow correctly.
- Theory: even torque prevents distortion and leaks; correct orientation ensures DPF/cat function; anti-seize prevents seizure for future service.
8. Reconnect sensors and perform controlled regens/initialization
- Action: clear codes, follow manufacturer procedure for learned parameters, run forced DPF regen via scan tool if necessary, perform road/test cycles to allow passive regeneration.
- Theory: clearing codes and forcing regeneration resets ECU expectations and clears accumulated soot; road test under load verifies correct flow and turbo behavior.
9. Test and verify repairs
- Action: repeat diagnostic checks: acoustic/visual for leaks, backpressure measurements under load, thermal delta across DPF/cat, scan-tool live data for pressures/temps and absence of codes.
- Theory: verifying confirms that leak is sealed, backpressure is within spec, sensors report plausible values and engine returns to expected performance.
5) How each repair step fixes the specific faults (bullet summary)
- New gasket/clamp seals joints → stops unmetered air entry → stabilizes O2/ECU readings → fixes rough idle and false lean/rich trims.
- Replace cracked pipe/weld → removes high-speed leakage and heat spots → reduces noise and prevents local damage.
- Replace/clean DPF → reduces exhaust restriction → lowers backpressure → restores power and prevents excessive EGTs and turbo drag.
- Replace catalytic converter → restores conversion efficiency or removes internal restriction caused by broken substrate.
- Replace sensors → returns correct feedback to ECU → corrects fueling, regen logic, and emissions control.
- Replace hangers → eliminates movement-induced failures → prolongs life of repaired joints.
6) Final checks and practical notes (concise)
- Always use OEM or equivalent parts for sensors, DPFs and gaskets. Use stainless or correct grade material for replacement pipes to avoid rapid corrosion.
- Torque to Hino workshop manual values. If unknown, do not over-tighten—use even incremental tightening.
- If welding, be aware DPF/cat internals cannot be welded; replace if substrate damaged. Welding near sensors can damage them—protect or remove.
- After repair, force a complete regen and verify DPF differential pressure returns to normal under load. Confirm no diagnostic codes remain.
- Safety: work with cooled exhaust, support vehicle properly, and disconnect battery when removing sensors near electrical harnesses.
This ordered theory-first approach shows how diagnosing, isolating, sealing, replacing, and verifying addresses leaks, restrictions and sensor faults so the exhaust system returns to correct flow, pressure and emissions behavior. rteeqp73
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Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set (6–24 mm), deep & shallow sockets, extensions
- Combination/box wrenches (including open-end for holding rocker studs)
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm) — calibrated
- Breaker bar
- Feeler gauge set (metric, 0.05–1.00 mm)
- Screwdrivers, pliers
- Clean rags, solvent (brake cleaner), lint‑free towels
- Magnetic parts tray
- Small nylon brush
- Engine oil (for assembly lube)
- Valve cover gasket (new) and RTV if required
- Replacement rocker arms/shaft/pedestals/pushrods as needed
- New rocker bolts/nuts if torque‑to‑yield or per manual
- Threadlocker (as specified by manual)
- Oil drain pan (if you remove oil lines)
- Gloves, eye protection, ear protection
- Jack & axle stands or vehicle lift, wheel chocks
Safety & prep
- Work on a level surface, parking brake on, wheels chocked. Use a lift or jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Engine cold. Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid accidental cranking.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Keep rags away from moving parts.
- Keep dirt and foreign objects out of the valve train area — cover openings immediately.
- Consult the Hino Dutro WU/XZU factory workshop manual for torque and valve clearance specifications; do not proceed without them.
Overview of procedure
1) Access
- Remove engine covers, air intake ducting that blocks valve cover access.
- Remove any brackets, wiring harness clips and PCV hoses attached to valve cover.
- Clean the top of the valve cover to prevent debris falling into the head.
2) Remove valve cover
- Loosen and remove valve cover bolts in a crisscross pattern to avoid distortion.
- Pry carefully if gasket is stuck; use a soft scraper. Lift valve cover and set aside.
- Remove old valve cover gasket; clean mating surfaces thoroughly.
3) Identify/mark components
- If the engine has individual rocker assemblies or pushrods, mark their positions (cylinder numbers) so components go back in same positions. Use a felt‑tip marker or numbered tags.
4) Rotate engine to TDC for cylinder 1 (or follow manual)
- Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley, rotate engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke for the cylinder you will set/inspect first. This ensures valves are closed and lash can be measured properly.
- Confirm TDC per timing marks or manual procedure.
5) Inspect before removal
- Visually inspect rocker arms, shafts and pushrods for obvious wear: scored shafts, worn rocker pads, pitted or mushroomed valve tips, bent or worn pushrods.
- If minor wear, you may only adjust; if significant wear/corrosion, replace parts.
6) Removing rocker assembly (if replacement or inspection required)
- Loosen rocker shaft/pedestal bolts evenly in small increments in a cross/sequence (if on a shaft), to avoid warping. Remove retainers and lift out rocker shaft assembly or individual rockers.
- Keep bolts and components ordered. Use magnetic tray.
- Inspect mating surfaces and oil passages for sludge; clean with solvent and lint‑free cloth. Do not let debris fall into head.
7) Inspect cam lobes & pushrods
- Check cam lobes for scoring/flattening. Check pushrods for straightness and seat wear (roll on flat surface to confirm straightness).
- Replace any pushrods that are bent or have mushroomed ends.
8) Fitment of replacement parts
- If replacing rocker arms or shafts, compare new vs old for correct part number and orientation.
- Clean and coat rocker shaft journals and bores with fresh engine oil. Use assembly lube if heavy re‑assembly downtime is expected.
- Install rocker assembly/pedestals in correct order and orientation.
9) Tightening sequence & torque
- Tighten rocker shaft/pedestal bolts in the correct sequence and in multiple stages to final torque. Use the torque wrench and follow the factory torque values and sequence.
- If manual specifies torque + angle for certain bolts, follow that precisely.
- Typical procedure: snug all bolts, then torque in steps (e.g., 30%, 60%, 100% of final torque), but use the exact sequence in the manual.
10) Valve clearance adjustment (lash)
- With engine at specified condition (cold or warm as specified by the manual), set valve clearances using a feeler gauge.
- Hold the rocker stud/nut with an open-end wrench while turning the adjuster/locknut as required. Insert the correct feeler gauge between the rocker pad (or tappet) and the valve stem/adjuster head, and adjust until the gauge drags lightly.
- Tighten locknut while holding adjuster in position; re-check clearance after tightening as locknut can shift.
- Advance the engine to the next cylinder’s TDC (or follow firing order method) and repeat for all valves.
- Re-check clearances for all valves after first pass.
How to use the main tools
- Torque wrench: Set required Nm on the wrench. Tighten bolt until wrench clicks/indicates. Use correct drive size and keep wrench square to fastener. Re‑torque only once unless specified otherwise.
- Feeler gauge: Slide the specified thickness blade between the adjusting surface and valve stem; adjust until slight drag is felt. Do not force a thicker blade.
- Socket & breaker bar: Use breaker bar for initial loosening when bolts are tight. Use correct socket size and ensure full engagement to avoid rounding.
- Ratchet & extensions: Use for general removal/installation; avoid sudden jerks near sensitive parts.
Replacement parts commonly required
- Rocker arms (individual)
- Rocker shaft and pedestals (if worn)
- Pushrods (if bent or with mushroomed ends)
- Valve cover gasket (always replace)
- Rocker bolts/nuts (if specified as single‑use or torque‑to‑yield)
- Valve stem seals (inspect and replace if leaking)
- Oil (if a small drain/refill required or if contamination occurred)
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not consulting the factory manual: torque and clearance specs vary — always use the manual.
- Mixing pushrods or rockers between cylinders: mark and keep them in order.
- Failing to rotate to correct TDC (compression stroke): adjustment will be wrong if valve is not fully closed.
- Over‑tightening or under‑torquing bolts: leads to warped shafts or loose assembly — use torque wrench and proper sequence.
- Damaging valve cover sealing surface: clean gently, replace gasket, use RTV only where specified.
- Leaving debris in head: keep the work area clean; plug openings if you remove components.
- Reusing worn parts: small wear can rapidly cause failure — replace obviously scored rockers, shafts, and pushrods.
- Not re‑checking clearances after tightening locknuts: locknuts can move the adjuster.
Final steps
- Clean mating surfaces and fit new valve cover gasket. Apply small bead of RTV only where manual specifies.
- Reinstall valve cover, tighten bolts in sequence to specified torque.
- Reattach any removed hoses, wiring, and intake components.
- Reconnect battery.
- Start engine and run at idle; listen for unusual noises. After warm up, shut off and re‑check valve clearances if manual requires warm adjustment.
- Inspect for oil leaks around valve cover and rocker area.
Notes on specifications
- Because exact torque values and valve clearance (lash) specs for Hino Dutro WU/XZU series vary by engine and model year, use the Hino Dutro workshop manual to get:
- Rocker shaft/pedestal bolt torque
- Rocker nut/adjuster torque
- Valve clearance specification (cold/warm)
- Any angle‑torque procedures
Common failure signs requiring replacement
- Excessive noise (clatter) after adjustment — may indicate worn rockers, cam or pushrods.
- Visible scoring/pitting on rocker pads, shaft journals or cam lobes.
- Oil pressure drop tied to excessive wear in valve train components.
That’s the complete workshop‑style procedure. Follow the factory manual for all numerical specifications and sequences. rteeqp73