1) Safety & prep
- Action: Park level, chock wheels, disconnect battery, wear eye protection, support vehicle if removing transmission with stands/crane.
- Theory / why: Prevents injury and electrical/hydraulic contamination; stable support is required for accurate alignment when reassembling drivetrain.

2) Symptom diagnosis (map symptoms to hydraulic vs mechanical)
- Action: Check pedal feel (spongy/soft, sinks to floor, hard to shift, clutch slips, no disengage), check fluid level and colour in reservoir, look for external leaks.
- Theory / why: Hydraulic system symptoms separate from worn clutch: air/low fluid = spongy/sinking pedal; external leaks = visible wetness; internal seal leak = pedal sinks without visible leak; slipping under load = worn disc or contaminated friction surfaces. Correct diagnosis directs the correct repair.

3) Visual and component inspection
- Action: Inspect reservoir cap/vent, fluid quality (dark/contaminated), hoses for cracks, metal lines for corrosion, master cylinder at firewall for seepage, slave cylinder at bellhousing for seepage, pushrod/pedal pivot for play, clutch linkage and release fork for damage.
- Theory / why: External leaks or contaminated fluid are obvious causes. Contaminated fluid indicates internal wear/contamination and may ruin seals. Mechanical linkage issues mimic hydraulic faults; replacing hydraulic parts alone won’t fix a bent fork or damaged bearing.

4) Check pedal travel and free-play measurement
- Action: Measure pedal free-play against Hino spec; observe if pedal returns normally; note travel to floor.
- Theory / why: Correct free-play ensures full release of pressure plate. Too little free-play causes dragging; too much causes incomplete disengagement. This measurement helps decide if adjustment or hydraulic repair is needed.

5) Simple fixes first: reservoir & bleed
- Action: If fluid low/top-up with specified DOT or mineral fluid per Hino spec; bench-bleed or gravity-bleed master cylinder if it was low or replaced; then bleed system starting from furthest bleed point using vacuum/pressure or manual pump-and-hold.
- Theory / why: Air compresses, preventing transmission of hydraulic pressure (spongy pedal). Bleeding removes air restoring incompressible hydraulic medium so pedal force transmits fully to slave. Bench-bleeding new master prevents re-introducing air into system.

6) Repair or replace leaking flexible hoses/metal lines
- Action: Replace any cracked or bulging hoses; replace corroded lines or fittings; use new sealing washers/banjo bolts where applicable; secure clamps.
- Theory / why: Flexible hoses expand under pressure if internally damaged, absorbing pressure and causing pedal sponginess and incomplete disengagement. Replacing lines restores rigid hydraulic transmission and prevents external fluid loss.

7) Master cylinder service/replace
- Action: If reservoir/visual inspection shows internal leak or bench-bleed can’t hold pressure, remove and rebuild or replace master cylinder (use Hino OEM or approved rebuild kit). Bench-bleed new unit before fitting.
- Theory / why: Internal seal failure in master lets fluid bypass back into reservoir when pedal is held, so pressure cannot be maintained; replacing seals restores one-way pressure generation so pedal force converts into system pressure.

8) Slave cylinder service/replace
- Action: If slave leaks or does not extend/retract correctly, replace slave cylinder or rebuild if applicable. Clean surrounding area before opening to avoid contamination. Replace pushrod boot and hardware.
- Theory / why: A leaking or seized slave cannot translate hydraulic pressure to mechanical movement at the release fork, so the clutch won’t disengage. New slave restores piston movement and sealing so system pressure results in correct actuation.

9) Adjust pushrod/pedal geometry and free-play
- Action: After bleeding, set pushrod length/pedal free-play per Hino spec; ensure pedal stop and return spring are correct; verify clutch fork engagement with release bearing.
- Theory / why: Correct geometry ensures the master/slave operate within travel range that fully compresses release bearing to disengage clutch but allows small free-play to avoid bearing preload and wear. This fixes dragging or partial release due to misadjustment.

10) If disengagement still fails: inspect clutch components (requires transmission removal)
- Action: Support engine/transmission, disconnect driveshafts, starter, linkages, bellhousing bolts; withdraw transmission; inspect pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, pilot bearing, and flywheel for wear, scoring, glazing or contamination.
- Theory / why: Hydraulic repairs only fix actuation. If pressure plate fingers are worn, disc is contaminated (oil/brake fluid), or release bearing is seized, the clutch will still slip, chatter, or not disengage. Replace clutch kit and bearings if any wear or contamination found.

11) Clutch replacement (if required) — reassembly notes
- Action: Replace disc/pressure plate/release bearing/pilot bearing as a set; check flywheel flatness and resurface or replace if necessary; use alignment tool to center disc; torque bellhousing bolts to spec; reinstall components in reverse order.
- Theory / why: A new clutch restores friction surfaces and correct stack-up. Aligning disc ensures correct spline engagement and prevents preload/drag. Resurfaced flywheel provides flat mating surface for proper pressure distribution.

12) Final bleed, adjustment, and road test
- Action: After reassembly, bleed system again to ensure no air introduced during work; set final free-play; test engagement at idle and under load; check for leaks.
- Theory / why: Any work that opened hydraulic circuit can introduce air. Final bleeding and adjustment confirm the hydraulic system and mechanical components operate together to produce full disengagement and engagement under load.

13) How each common repair fixes specific faults (summary)
- Low fluid/top-up/fix leak → restores pressure and prevents air ingress. Fixes spongy pedal/leak symptoms.
- Bleeding → removes air; fixes spongy pedal and incomplete actuation.
- Replace hoses/lines → eliminates line expansion and external loss; restores rigid pressure transmission.
- Replace master cylinder → restores pressure generation (fixes pedal sinking/internal leak).
- Replace slave cylinder → restores piston movement at release fork (fixes no/disengage).
- Adjust pushrod/free-play → corrects partial engagement or dragging.
- Replace clutch kit/rotate/resurface flywheel → fixes slipping, chatter, contamination and any wear-related non-disengagement.

Tools and consumables checklist (essential)
- Correct hydraulic fluid per Hino spec, new seals/banjo washers, replacement cylinders or hoses as needed, bleed kit (vacuum or pressure), torque wrench, transmission jack, alignment tool, basic hand tools, cleaning solvent, rags.

End result verification
- Pedal feel firm with correct free-play; clutch fully disengages (engine idle + gear engagement no drag); no leaks; no pedal sink on hold; vehicle shifts smoothly under load.
rteeqp73

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así se envenena un freno de ahogo o freno de escape en motores diesel

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