Short, workshop-style procedure + explanation for replacing/servicing the harmonic balancer (crankshaft damper / crank pulley) on Hino FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB series trucks — written for a beginner mechanic. No extra questions.

1) What the harmonic balancer is (and why it matters)
- Purpose: The harmonic balancer (aka crankshaft damper / crank pulley) is mounted on the front of the crankshaft. It does two jobs:
- Dampens torsional vibration of the crankshaft (absorbs and reduces sudden twist/oscillations). Think of it like a shock absorber on a car suspension but for rotational vibration — it prevents the crankshaft from “ringing” and fatiguing.
- Serves as the drive pulley for accessory belts or as the mounting point for the belt(s) that drive alternator, power steering, A/C compressor, water pump (depending on engine layout).
- Why repair/replace: If the rubber isolator inside the balancer separates, the outer ring slips or wobbles, or the bolt/shaft key is damaged, you’ll get vibration, belt misalignment, premature crankshaft wear or possible catastrophic crank failure over long term. Symptoms include engine vibration at idle or certain RPM ranges, unusual noises from front of engine, wobbling pulley, or belts throwing off.

2) Main components (detailed)
- Crankshaft snout / flange: the front end of the crankshaft; has a keyway and threaded hole for the crank bolt. It’s the part the balancer mounts to.
- Key / keyway: small metal key that fits in the crankshaft and into the balancer hub to transmit torque and keep timing/pulley alignment.
- Harmonic balancer assembly:
- Inner hub/shaft mounting bore – keys to crank, sits on crank snout.
- Rubber elastomer ring (damping element) — bonded between hub and outer ring. It cushions torsional movement.
- Outer inertia ring (steel) — the mass that “resists” rapid twist; often carries timing marks and the accessory pulley grooves or belt drive flange.
- Protective lip/face and timing mark(s) — used for ignition/timing/inspection on some engines.
- Crank pulley bolt & washer: large bolt that clamps balancer to crank. Usually a torque-to-yield or single-use heavy fastener — replace with new.
- Pulley grooves / serpentine ring: if balancer drives accessory belts, grooves or flanges are part of the outer ring.
- Seal (front crankshaft oil seal): sits behind the balancer and prevents oil leak. Disturb/reinstall carefully; often replace seal when balancer removed.
- Harmonic balancer retaining/installation tools: puller arms, forcing screw or special Hino tool; crankshaft holding tool; sometimes installer sleeve.

Analogy: Imagine spinning a metal rod (crank) with a weight and rubber ring attached. Without the rubber the weight would snap the rod at resonance. The balancer is the rubber+suspended weight that stops the rod from resonating.

3) Theory — how it works (short)
- Crankshaft experiences torsional pulses from each cylinder firing. At certain rpm ranges those pulses can resonate with the crank’s natural frequency and amplify stresses.
- The balancer’s elastomer allows slight movement between the hub (crank) and the outer mass. The mass absorbs and offsets those oscillations, reducing peak torque swings on the crank.
- If the elastomer fails or the assembly slips, the crank is no longer damped and resonant stresses increase drastically.

4) What can go wrong (failure modes)
- Rubber separation: elastomer bond fails (age, heat, oil contamination) → outer ring oscillates independently → vibration and wobble.
- Keyway shear / worn key: removes positive drive → slippage; timing and orientation can change.
- Bolt loosen or shear: bolt backing out or snapping → balancer movement or loss.
- Corrosion/corrosive seizure: balancer seized on crank or stuck via corrosion.
- Seal damage & oil leak: removal can damage seal; oil can collect and degrade rubber.
- Misalignment: incorrect installation causes belt tracking issues and accessory damage.
- Crankshaft snout damage or thread damage: requires repair or time-consuming job.

5) Symptoms/diagnosis checklist
- Visible wobble of pulley at idle.
- New or increasing vibration/noise from front of engine, especially at certain RPM.
- Cracked or missing rubber between hub and ring (visual).
- Oil leak at seal where balancer sits.
- Loose or missing crank bolt, or creak/clunk on acceleration.
- Belt wear or belt throwing off.

6) Tools & consumables
- Basic: sockets (large impact quality for crank bolt), breaker bar, torque wrench capable of high torque.
- Harmonic balancer puller (3-arm or two-arm with correct bolt sizes) or Hino special puller (recommended).
- Crankshaft holding tool or method to prevent crank turning (flywheel lock, ratchet in starter hole method — but avoid using starter to break bolt).
- Penetrating oil (if stuck).
- Rubber mallet, pry bar (careful), heat source (propane torch) for light heating — use sparingly.
- New crank bolt & washer (recommended replacement), threadlocker if specified.
- New front crankshaft oil seal (recommended).
- Clean rags, brake cleaner/solvent.
- Safety: jackstands, wheel chocks, gloves, eye protection.

7) Safety & pre-work
- Park on level ground, chock wheels. Disconnect battery negative.
- Support vehicle securely with jackstands if you need to go underneath. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Allow engine to cool.
- Note belt routing and timing marks — take photos.

8) Removal procedure (workshop-style step sequence)
Note: Check your specific Hino engine service manual for torque specs and any special tool numbers. This is generic but practical for most Hino medium-duty diesel engines.

a) Expose balancer
- Remove accessory belts (loosen tensioner and slide belts off).
- Remove any front covers, splash shields, or fan(s) that block access.
- If there is a fan attached to the balancer or radiator fan for clearance, remove it per manual.
- Remove any sensors or wiring harness clips in the way.

b) Prevent crank rotation
- Use a crank holding tool or lock the flywheel via inspection cover (use a heavy wrench/file in flywheel teeth with correct caution) — follow the manual.
- Alternatively, use an impact wrench to remove the crank bolt after breaking it free, but be aware of potential damage to bolt/starter.

c) Remove crank bolt
- Apply penetrating oil to bolt head, allow soak if necessary.
- Use large socket with breaker bar or impact to remove the crank bolt. This bolt is very tight — use correct tools and stable footing.
- Keep the washer/bolt – plan to replace.

d) Pull balancer
- Thread puller bolts into the balancer’s threaded holes or attach arms to outer ring per puller instructions. Use even pressure to pull straight off.
- If balancer is stuck: apply penetrating oil on hub interface and allow time. Gentle heating of outer ring (not excessive) can help break the bond, but avoid overheating seals or rubber. Do NOT hammer directly on balancer face; use puller.
- Once removed, inspect front crank seal and replace if worn.

9) Inspection & measurements
- Inspect elastomer: cracks, compressions, de-bonding between inner hub and outer ring.
- Check key and keyway for wear. Replace key if rounded or loose.
- Inspect crankshaft snout for scoring, corrosion, or damage.
- Check bolt threads in crank and in bolt. Use thread chaser if necessary and safe; do not reuse damaged fasteners.
- Inspect belt grooves and outer ring for runout: mount balancer on a lathe or check with dial indicator for lateral runout if available. Any substantial runout means replace balancer.
- Replace front crankshaft oil seal whenever the balancer is removed (cheap insurance).

10) Installation procedure
- Clean crank snout and mating surfaces thoroughly; remove rust/corrosion but do not alter finish.
- Install new key into crank keyway (light coat of anti-seize if manual allows; usually key is dry fit).
- Fit balancer onto snout by hand aligning keyway; slide on as far as possible by hand.
- Use installer tool or bolt to press balancer on straight; do not hammer. Some manufacturers supply an installer sleeve — use it to push evenly.
- Ensure balancer seats fully against the crank shoulder. Some may have a small gap per spec — check manual.
- Install new crank bolt and washer. Apply specified threadlocker if manual requires.
- Torque bolt to factory spec in correct sequence (often a two-stage torque, sometimes with angle tightening for torque-to-yield). If you don’t have the exact spec, do NOT guess — look it up in service manual. If you must proceed temporarily, torque in the range appropriate to large crank bolts (see manual) and replace bolt; better to get spec first.
- Reinstall belts, covers, fan, and anything removed. Double-check belt alignment and tension.
- Reconnect battery.

11) Post-install checks and testing
- Start engine; observe pulley at idle for wobble or noise.
- Look for oil leaks at front seal.
- Road test; check for engine vibration across RPM range.
- Recheck crank bolt torque after recommended run-in period per manual (some recommend rechecking after a short drive).
- Monitor for unusual noises for several days.

12) Common installation mistakes and effects
- Reusing old crank bolt (can shear later) → catastrophic failure potential.
- Not replacing or damaging front oil seal → oil on rubber causes premature balancer failure.
- Improper seating or misaligned key → wobble, belt wear, possible key shear.
- Over-tightening bolt → stripped threads or snapped bolt; under-tightening → bolt loosens and balancer walks off.
- Using improper puller bolts or uneven pulling → damage to outer ring or crack the ring.

13) Troubleshooting after install
- If vibration persists: check runout with dial indicator; check timing marks and ignition/timing if applicable; verify balancer is correct part for engine.
- If belts squeal or track off: check pulley alignment and belt tension.
- If bolt loosens: check thread condition in crank, consider helicoil or thread repair if damaged, fit new bolt per spec.

14) Parts & replacement advice
- Use OEM or high-quality aftermarket balancer matched to exact engine model. Balancer mass and elastomer properties are engine-specific.
- Always replace crank bolt, key, and front seal when performing this job.
- Keep same number of belt grooves and timing marks orientation.

15) Final notes (practical workshop tips)
- Photograph belt routing and timing marks before disassembly.
- Label removed small parts and hardware.
- Work methodically; don’t force components. Heat and penetrating oil are useful but use conservatively.
- If stuck or balancer is heavily corroded/seized, consider professional shop with hydraulic press or Hino-special tools to avoid damaging the crank.
- Consult the Hino workshop manual for exact bolt torque, any angle-tightening instructions, and special tool numbers for your specific engine variant (FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB cover multiple engines and specs can vary).

That’s the complete workshop-style overview — components, theory, what goes wrong, removal/installation steps, inspection, and common pitfalls.
rteeqp73

Calibración embrague hino sg500 tensionar, cuando el pedal está muy abajo

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