Tools & equipment (minimum)
- Full-size hydraulic floor jack (rated for gross vehicle weight) and axle/transmission jack
- Heavy-duty jack stands rated for axle load (two per end)
- Wheel chocks
- Impact wrench with appropriate sockets and breaker bar
- Metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, combination wrenches
- Large torque wrench (capable of required U‑bolt torque)
- Spring compressor (for front coil/strut if applicable)
- C‑clamp or pry bar, large punch and hammer
- Press or bushing driver kit (for replacing spring bushings)
- Grinder/cutoff and flap wheel (for minor clearance trimming)
- Punches, pliers, wire cutters, pry bars
- Brake line pliers and fittings set (for rerouting or extending lines)
- Grease gun and appropriate grease
- Thread locker (medium strength), anti-seize compound
- Measuring tape, straight edge, angle finder or digital inclinometer
- Service manual for exact torque specs and procedures
- Wheel alignment machine or alignment shims and pro shop access

Replacement parts commonly required
- Complete lowering kit (manufacturer-specified for Hino FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB) including drop spindles or lowered leaf packs or shackle kit as applicable
- New U‑bolts (always replace) sized for kit
- New spring shackles/bolts and nuts (recommended)
- New spring bushings/centre bolts (press-in)
- Shorter or re‑valved shock absorbers matched to lowered ride height
- Brake hose extensions or new hoses if needed
- Bump stops (shortened or relocated) and limit straps if required
- New sway bar end links if geometry changes
- Replacement cotter pins, washers, and thread locker

Safety and liability precautions (read before starting)
- Work on a level, hard surface. Chock wheels and support vehicle with rated jack stands; never rely on the hydraulic jack alone.
- Use a second support under the axle (transmission jack) while removing springs.
- Wear eye protection, heavy gloves, and hearing protection.
- Lowering changes vehicle dynamics—do not operate a vehicle that is unstable or illegally modified. Verify legal, load capacity and insurance implications.
- Follow Hino workshop manual for torque specs and service limits; deviations affect safety.

General notes before starting
- Identify whether the kit is a “drop spindle” front kit or a “lowered spring/shackle” kit for rear. The exact steps differ. This guide covers both common methods used on Hino medium-duty trucks.
- Have the vehicle unloaded (empty cargo), fuel level typical for use test, or per kit instructions.
- Take photos before disassembly to aid reassembly.

Step-by-step — Front suspension (drop spindles or lowered springs)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock rear wheels, set park brake. Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly.
- Raise vehicle with floor jack at front axle or frame jacking points per manual. Place jack stands under frame rails (not under axle) and lower vehicle onto stands.
- Remove wheels.

2. Support steering knuckle/axle
- Place an axle jack or transmission jack under axle/knuckle to support as you separate components.
- If coil spring/strut: compress spring with spring compressor and support strut assembly.

3. Disconnect front components
- Remove shock absorber lower bolt if needed to allow axle droop.
- Disconnect track rod/drag link end if required to remove spindle (mark orientation).
- Remove brake caliper and hang clear with wire (do not let brake hose carry weight). Remove rotor if necessary. Detach ABS sensor wiring from bracket.
- If using drop spindles: remove the hub/rotor assembly from the existing spindle per manual. If replacing spindle, unbolt spindle from steering knuckle.

4. Install drop spindle / lowered spring components
- If installing drop spindles: fit new spindle onto knuckle, torque castle nuts/stem bearings to factory spec, repack bearings if removed, fit new seals, install hub/rotor back on.
- If installing lowering springs/struts: remove original springs and fit new lowered springs/strut assembly. Ensure spring perches and isolators are correctly seated.
- Replace any worn bushings/ball joints during reassembly.

5. Reattach brake lines and sensors
- Re-route brake hose if necessary. Ensure hose has slack at full droop and full jounce; install new flexible hoses if kinked.
- Reattach ABS wiring and secure with new brackets if needed.

6. Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
- Torque wheel nuts lightly while on jack stands, then lower onto ground and torque to wheel spec.
- Final torque and cotter pins per manual.

Step-by-step — Rear suspension (leaf springs / shackle or modified hangers)
1. Preparation
- Chock front wheels, loosen rear wheel lug nuts. Jack the frame behind the rear axle, support on heavy-duty jack stands under the frame rails.
- Support axle with hydraulic jack or transmission jack. Do not let axle fall when removing u‑bolts.

2. Unload leaf spring area
- Remove rear wheels and inner splash shields as needed. Disconnect shock absorbers lower mounts.
- Mark spring location and center pin orientation. Remove parking brake brackets off axle if they interfere.

3. Remove U‑bolts and lower axle slightly
- Loosen nuts on U‑bolts; use penetrating oil and heat if necessary. Use an impact or breaker bar.
- Lower axle slightly with jack just enough to relieve spring seat pressure—do not remove support from under axle.

4. Remove old springs / shackles
- Remove spring shackle bolt(s) and front eye bolt/nut. Some Hino models use a center bolt; remove as needed.
- Support spring if necessary and remove from chassis.

5. Install lowered leaf springs or shackle kit
- Position new lowered springs per kit instructions. If kit uses shorter springs, ensure the spring center pin aligns with axle perch.
- If kit uses drop hangers or relocated spring plates, install those to the frame and torque to spec, then mount springs.
- Replace center bolt, new shackles and bushings. Fit new U‑bolts over axle and through lowered spring plate, install provided nuts and washers.
- Use the proper length U‑bolts supplied with kit; never reuse old U‑bolts.

6. Reattach shocks, brakes and check brake line slack
- Install shocks sized for new ride height. Reattach parking brake brackets and check drum/caliper clearance.
- Verify brake hoses and ABS wires have correct routing and slack. Replace hoses if stretched or near contact points.

7. Final torque and lower
- Lower axle carefully until springs seat. Torque U‑bolts and all new fasteners to Hino manual specs. Tighten U‑bolts evenly in a criss-cross to specified torque (or use recommended sequence).
- Lower vehicle to ground, allow springs to settle, then re-torque U‑bolts after initial settling (see post‑install).

Specific tool use notes
- Hydraulic jack and axle jack: support and control descent of axle. Never remove jack stands while axle is unsupported.
- Spring compressor: compress coil springs safely when removing top strut assembly. Use only rated compressors; secure before removing top mount nut.
- Impact wrench: speeds removal of corroded fasteners, but final torque must be applied with a torque wrench.
- Press / bushing driver: used to remove/install spring eye bushings; align and press straight to avoid bushing or eye damage.
- Torque wrench: use for final torquing of U‑bolts, shackles, anchor bolts, ball joints and tie-rod ends. Verify calibration.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing U‑bolts: never reuse—fatigue and stretch cause failures. Always use kit-supplied or new high-grade U‑bolts.
- Incorrect torque: overtightening can crush spring pack or shear bolts; undertightening causes movement and failure. Use factory torque specs.
- Brake line/ABS wiring too tight: results in chafing or rupture—always verify full wheel travel both up and down.
- Shock absorber mismatch: using stock shocks with lowered ride height will cause poor damping and premature failure—fit shorter or re-valved shocks specified by kit.
- Bump stop interference: lowered ride height may allow axle to contact frame or springs—install shortened/relocated bump stops or limit straps as required.
- Driveline angle issues: dropping axle too far can increase driveline angle and cause vibration or U-joint failure. Verify pinion angle and cab tilt where relevant.
- Skipping alignment: lowering changes geometry—always perform professional 4-wheel alignment after installation.
- Over-lowering: reduces load capacity and causes rubbing with tires/wheels or underbody components. Stay within kit and vehicle limits.

Post-install checks and break-in
- Check and torque: after first 50–100 km (30–60 miles) and again at 500 km, re-check and re-torque U‑bolts, shackles and wheel lug nuts.
- Alignment: perform full alignment (toe, camber where adjustable) and check thrust angle.
- Road test: test at low speed first, check braking, steering response, ride comfort, and listen for unusual noises.
- Inspect for rubbing clearance at full lock and full compression/droop.
- Verify ABS, speedometer and suspension-mounted sensors function properly.

Notes on legality and safety
- Lowering alters load ratings, ground-clearance and crash behavior. Confirm modifications meet local vehicle regulations and company/fleet policies.
- For commercial vehicles, ensure Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) compliance and re-certify if required by authorities.

Final reminder
- Use the vehicle’s Hino workshop manual torque specifications and service limits. If you are not fully confident or the kit requires welding or frame modifications, have the installation performed by a qualified heavy-vehicle shop.

No questions.
rteeqp73

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