- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and steel-toe boots; work on a flat, level surface with good lighting.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal to prevent accidental cranking.
- Never work under an engine supported only by a hydraulic jack; always use sturdy jack stands or an engine support bar.
- If you are unsure at any point, stop and get a qualified mechanic — engines and jacks can cause serious injury.

- What “shock absorber” likely means here
- Engine mount / vibration damper (rubber mount or hydraulic engine mount) that isolates the Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99 from chassis or frame.
- If you meant the crank harmonic balancer/damper (on the crank pulley) or vehicle chassis shock absorbers, the procedures differ — the guide below covers replacing engine mounts/shock absorbers on the engine-to-frame mounts.

- Parts that might need replacement and why
- Rubber engine mount / shock absorber
- Why replace: cracked, compressed, oil-soaked, or separated rubber causes excessive vibration, clunks, misalignment, or driveline stress.
- What to buy: OEM Perkins replacement mounts for your exact engine model and mounting arrangement, or an equivalent heavy-duty aftermarket mount specified for 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99. Match bolt pattern, height and load rating.
- Mounting bolts / washers
- Why replace: stretched, corroded or damaged threads reduce clamping force; replacement ensures reliable fastening.
- What to buy: grade-matched bolts (check manual), plain or flanged washers as required.
- Anti-seize or thread-lock compound (optional)
- Why: anti-seize prevents future corrosion; thread-lock prevents bolts working loose where specified.
- Engine support rubber pads or small block of hard wood
- Why: to cushion the oil-pan/jack contact when supporting the engine.

- Tools you will need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Socket set with ratchet and deep sockets
- Description: set of sockets sized by metric/imperial with a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet; deep sockets reach recessed nuts.
- How to use: pick the correct socket to fit the mount bolts, place on ratchet, turn clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen. Use extension bars to reach awkward bolts.
- Combination spanners (open + box end)
- Description: fixed-length wrenches, box end for better grip, open end for quick turning.
- How to use: use box end on fastened nuts/bolts where socket access is limited; hold the bolt head while undoing the nut with a socket or vice versa.
- Torque wrench
- Description: calibrated wrench that lets you apply a precise torque (typically 3/8" or 1/2" drive).
- How to use: set required torque on the wrench, tighten until it clicks or indicates the set value; ensures correct clamp force per manual.
- Hydraulic floor jack (1–2 ton) or transmission jack (if available)
- Description: wheeled jack to lift/support engine or vehicle components.
- How to use: position under oil pan with a wide wooden block to spread load and protect pan; pump to lift slightly to take weight off the mount. Do not rely on jack alone—use jack stands or engine support.
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Description: mechanical supports to hold a vehicle or load safely at a chosen height.
- How to use: after lifting, place jack stands at manufacturer-specified lift points or under a secure frame member; lower vehicle or component onto stands.
- Engine support bar or chain hoist (optional but safer for heavy lifts)
- Description: beam across engine bay or overhead hoist to support engine from above.
- How to use: attach to rocker or lifting points per tool instructions and raise slightly to relieve mount pressure; used when motor mounts on both sides are being changed simultaneously.
- Breaker bar (long-handled non-ratcheting bar)
- Description: long bar used to break loose tight bolts with more leverage.
- How to use: fit socket and apply steady force to break stubborn bolts free; avoid jerking motions.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40/Rust penetrant)
- Description: liquid that soaks into threads to loosen rusted bolts.
- How to use: spray onto bolt/nut threads, wait 10–15 minutes; repeat if needed.
- Wire brush / diesel-safe cleaner
- Description: stiff-bristle brush to clean corrosion and grime.
- How to use: scrub bolt holes and mating faces so new parts seat properly.
- Pry bar or large flat screwdriver
- Description: lever to move components slightly to align mount holes.
- How to use: use gently to position engine/frame for bolt insertion; avoid prying on fragile parts.
- Hammer and soft-faced mallet
- Description: for persuading stuck components; soft-faced mallet won't damage metal as much.
- How to use: tap gently to free old mount or seat new mount; avoid heavy blows.
- Drill and small bit(s) (optional)
- Description: power drill for cleaning out seized bolt holes or removing studs.
- How to use: only if threads are damaged and you know what you're doing; drilling may require re-tapping threads afterward — consider a shop if needed.
- Thread chaser or tap-and-die set (optional, advanced)
- Description: tools to clean/recut threads in bolts/holes.
- How to use: use carefully to restore threads; if unfamiliar, have a machinist or workshop do it.
- Replacement mounts and bolts (as above)
- Description: new parts matched to engine and chassis; mounts typically comprise metal sleeves and rubber isolator.
- How to use: install in same orientation as old; use torque wrench to spec.

- Extra tools that might be required and why
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Why: speeds removal of stubborn bolts; not required but helpful. Use with care — do final torque with a torque wrench.
- Engine hoist or support beam (recommended for engines mounted at multiple points)
- Why: safer when replacing more than one mount or when mounts support significant engine weight; prevents engine sag and misalignment.
- Service manual for Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99
- Why: provides exact torque specs, bolt sizes, mounting orientation and any special procedures — essential for correct and safe reassembly.

- Step-by-step procedure (high level, safety emphasized)
- Prepare
- Park on level ground, set handbrake, chock wheels.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Consult service manual for mount location(s), torque specs and any model-specific notes.
- Inspect and identify
- Locate the suspect mount(s) on the engine-to-frame bracket; note orientation, plate spacers, washers and bolt lengths so you can reinstall identical.
- Support engine
- Position floor jack with wood pad under oil pan or use an engine support bar/hoist.
- Raise slightly until engine weight is taken by the jack; do not lift vehicle—only take weight off the mount.
- Place jack stands under frame crossmember or use the engine support bar to secure engine position.
- Free bolts
- Apply penetrating oil to mount bolts/nuts and let soak.
- Use breaker bar or socket to break nuts/bolts loose. Hold the bolt head with a spanner if the nut turns but the bolt spins.
- Remove nuts and bolts carefully; note any shims or washers.
- Remove old mount
- With bolts removed, pry mount out if needed using a pry bar; gently tap if seized.
- Clean the mounting faces and bolt holes with a wire brush.
- Fit new mount
- Compare old and new mounts to ensure correct size and orientation.
- Position new mount, insert bolts finger-tight to ensure alignment.
- Tighten bolts by hand until snug.
- Lower engine to load mounts
- Gradually lower the jack/engine support so the engine rests on the new mount; ensure alignment of engine/transmission and exhaust/drive lines remains correct.
- Torque fasteners
- With the engine loaded on the mounts, use the torque wrench to tighten bolts to the manufacturer’s specified torque from the service manual.
- If you do not have the spec, do not guess — get the manual or have a shop torque them. Undersized torque allows movement; oversize can damage mount or bolts.
- Final checks
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and listen for unusual vibrations or clunks; visually inspect mounts while idling and when revving slightly (with someone inside to control engine).
- Re-torque after a short break-in run if the manual recommends.
- Dispose of old mounts and cleaned parts properly.

- Typical troubleshooting and signs you did it right
- Reduced vibration and no clunks on acceleration/decoupling indicates success.
- If vibration worsens or bolts loosen, immediately stop and re-check torque, orientation and whether the correct mount was fitted.

- When to seek professional help
- If bolts are seized and require drilling/tapping.
- If engine alignment issues arise (driveline bind, exhaust misalignment).
- If multiple mounts are corroded or load paths need simultaneous support.

- Quick reminders (no fluff)
- Match part numbers; don’t assume all mounts are identical between models.
- Use a torque wrench for final tightening.
- Support the engine properly—this is the single biggest safety and success factor.

- Useful references to have on hand
- Perkins workshop manual for your specific engine serial number range (for torque figures and drawings).
- Parts diagram for exact mount part numbers.

- Final note
- Replace damaged mounts and any compromised bolts; use correct torque and proper engine support. If you want the exact torque numbers or part numbers, consult the Perkins manual or provide your engine serial and I can list typical part references.
rteeqp73

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