Isuzu F Series FSR FTR FVR Truck 1997-2003 Workshop Manual digital download

Brief summary (what you'll do)
- Replace the worn shock mount(s) on an Isuzu F Series (FSR/FTR/FVR). That means remove the shock(s), replace the rubber/metal mounting components (and the shock if worn), fit new washers/sleeves/nuts, and torque to spec. Work safely, support the vehicle, and inspect surrounding components.

Why this repair is needed — theory in plain language
- The shock absorber controls vertical motion by converting kinetic energy into heat through hydraulic damping. The shock mount is the interface between the shock and the truck chassis/axle/cab. It does two things:
1. Transmits loads from the shock into the truck structure.
2. Isolates noise, vibration and small misalignments through a rubber or polyurethane bushing.
- Think of the shock as a spoon moving through honey (the honey = hydraulic oil inside). The mount is the spoon handle’s rubber grip — if the grip is shredded you feel every movement, and the spoon can rattle and fatigue. Worn mounts cause clunks, excessive vibration, premature shock damage, and poor ride control. Replacing mounts restores proper load transfer and noise isolation.

Main components — every bit you’ll see and touch
- Shock absorber (if you’re replacing the whole unit):
- Body: cylinder that contains hydraulic fluid.
- Piston rod: polished shaft that slides in/out.
- Piston and valves: inside the rod/body, create damping.
- Dust boot: rubber sleeve protecting the rod.
- Bump/rebound stop (bump stop): prevents metal-on-metal at full compression.
- Eye or stud fittings: mounting points at top and bottom.
- Mounting hardware:
- Upper mount plate / bracket: welded bracket or cab mount where upper shock attaches.
- Lower mount bracket / axle eye / shackle: where lower end attaches.
- Rubber bushing (or polyurethane): the resilient element. Usually a donut with a metal sleeve.
- Metal sleeve / spacer: goes through rubber bushing, accepts the bolt/stud.
- Washers (flat, sometimes hardened): sit on either side of bushings to spread load.
- Nuts / nuts with nylon insert (Nyloc) / castellated nuts with cotter pin (truck-specific).
- Stud or bolt that clamps through the sleeve/bushing.
- Retaining plates or caps (sometimes used on top mounts).
- Fasteners and consumables:
- Mounting bolts and nuts (may be grade 8/10.9 for load-bearing).
- Anti-seize or thread lubricant, and optionally thread locker on some nuts.
- Replacement hardware (always replace crushed/rusted washers, damaged studs, or corroded bolts).

What can go wrong (and how to spot it)
- Symptoms of bad mounts:
- Clunking or knocking over bumps (loose mount or shredded rubber).
- Increased vibration/noise in cab.
- Oil leak on the shock (shock itself failing).
- Metal-on-metal contact, missing washers or collapsed bushing.
- Misalignment of shock eye — bent bracket or worn shackle.
- Failure modes:
- Rubber bushing collapsed, cracked or extruded through.
- Metal sleeve corroded or seized inside bushing.
- Mount stud pulled through or sheared.
- Frame or bracket cracking around mount.
- Bolt threads corroded, making removal difficult.
- Risks during repair:
- Vehicle slipping from jack stands — always use adequate supports.
- Spring energy (if you remove spring-loaded components) — use spring compressors or proper procedures.
- Cutting bolts while load is on parts — never do that.

Tools and consumables (minimal beginner’s kit)
- Tools:
- Floor jack and axle/cab support jack(s) and strong jack stands (rated).
- Wheel chocks.
- Socket set (deep and shallow), metric and imperial as needed.
- Open-end/box wrenches for retained nuts.
- Breaker bar, ratchet, extensions.
- Torque wrench (essential).
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster).
- Wire brush, hammer, cold chisel (for stubborn corrosion).
- Punch or drift to remove sleeves.
- Impact gun (optional — speeds job).
- Pry bar.
- Bench vice or pipe to press out bushings (optional).
- Threadlocker (medium strength) and anti-seize.
- New bushings/sleeves/nuts/washers (OEM or quality aftermarket).
- Consumables:
- Replaceable mounting bolts if they show corrosion/stretch.
- Rags, safety glasses, gloves.

Preparations and safety (non-negotiable)
- Park level on hard surface. Chock rear wheels/other end.
- Engage parking brake, put gearbox in park/neutral per vehicle.
- Support truck with rated jack stands under the frame (not under suspension arms).
- Never rely solely on a jack.
- If you must raise the cab for access to cab mount, use a separate strong jack under the cab with timber spreader and block the cab with stands designed for cab support. Many Isuzus have a tilting cab — consult the truck manual for correct cab support points and tilt lock procedure.
- If large corroded bolts need cutting, relieve loads on them first and ensure components are safely supported.

Step-by-step workshop procedure (typical shock mount replacement)
Note: configurations vary (some trucks have top-stud upper mounts; others use bolts). Always refer to the Isuzu workshop manual for explicit bolt sizes and torque specs. Steps below are generic and suitable for most F Series shock eye or stud mounts.

1) Preparation
- Gather parts and tools. Replace both sides if one is failed (shocks/mounts usually wear symmetrically). If only one mount is worn, do the matching side too for balanced ride.
- Spray penetrating oil on upper and lower fasteners and let soak 10–20 minutes.

2) Lift and support
- Chock wheels and loosen wheel lug nuts if you need wheel removal (some shocks are behind wheels).
- Raise the truck with a heavy-duty jack and place jack stands under secure frame points. Confirm vehicle is stable.
- If replacing cab mount: raise cab slightly with a separate jack and secure underlying cab support stands (follow OEM procedure). Do not leave cab solely on jack.

3) Relieve load on shock
- Support the axle or suspension arm with a jack under the control arm or axle so the shock has slight lift and is not holding vehicle weight. That prevents tension binding and makes bolts easier to remove.

4) Remove lower mount fastener
- Use appropriate socket/wrench to remove the lower nut/bolt. For eyelet style, remove the bolt through the shock eye. Keep track of washers and orientation.
- If bolt is seized: apply more penetrating oil, use breaker bar, heat carefully with a torch if needed (but do not heat near rubber/bushings and fuel lines), or cut as a last resort after ensuring load is removed and parts are supported.

5) Remove upper mount fastener
- Depending on the mount style:
- Top stud: hold the stud from turning and undo the nut on the stud top; then push the stud out (sometimes the dust cover or bushing must be pried).
- Through-bolt: remove bolt from bracket.
- Remove shock from vehicle.

6) Inspect removed parts
- Note orientation of washers, bushings and sleeves. Take photos for reference.
- Inspect brackets for cracks or elongation of holes. If bracket holes are oval, shock will move and must be repaired/replaced.
- Check the shock for oil leaks or pitting on the rod; replace shock if any damage.

7) Replace bushings/sleeves/hardware
- If using replaceable bushings:
- Clean debris and rust from mounting bore and surfaces with wire brush.
- Press out old rubber bushings or pull out metal sleeves — cut if necessary (after safe support).
- Fit new rubber/polyurethane bushings. Insert metal sleeve/spacer into bushing.
- Ensure bushing is oriented correctly (lip orientation or split bushing seams per supplier instructions).
- If top mount includes plates or cups, fit them exactly as originals (retaining ring in same place, dust boots over rod).

8) Refit shock assembly
- Orient shock with dust boot and bump stop correctly (rod up on top-mount shocks).
- Insert shock into upper mount first (or follow original orientation).
- Put washers on either side of bushing as original — washers usually sit outside the bushing to spread load.
- Insert bolt/stud through sleeve; fit nut finger-tight.
- Repeat for lower mount.

9) Torque bolts to spec
- With the vehicle at normal ride height if the mount requires it (some mounts/bushings should be tightened with suspension at curb weight), lower the vehicle so suspension bears weight. This prevents preloading the bushings in the wrong position. For truck shocks, many times bolts are torqued with vehicle weight on wheels — check manual.
- Use torque wrench to tighten nuts/bolts to OEM torque spec. If you don’t have the spec, mark job and consult the manual or provide bolts to shop. Typical truck shock bolt torques are in the range of 80–200 Nm depending on bolt size — but do NOT guess for critical fasteners.
- Apply threadlocker where specified by the manual and anti-seize on exposed threads if recommended.

10) Final checks
- Confirm all hardware is installed in the right orientation.
- Ensure dust boots and bump stops are seated and not pinched.
- Remove support jacks, slowly lower vehicle to ground and re-torque if required.
- Test by pushing down on the truck corner — smooth rebound, no clunks.
- Road test at low speed over bumps, listen for any new noises. Recheck torque after initial test drive.

Useful tips and troubleshooting
- If the upper stud won’t come out because of seized threads: sometimes removing the nut and pushing the stud out through the bracket works. If the stud breaks, you may need to drill and extract or cut it and fit a new stud/bolt.
- Replace any toasted washers or corroded bolts. Using old hardware is a common source of failure.
- If bracket holes are elongated, weld-on repair plates or replace bracket — leaving a sloppy mount will cause rapid re-failure.
- If shock rod is pitted/corroded it will tear the seal and quickly fail; always inspect the shock itself when changing mounts.
- Always replace both sides if the wear is similar — uneven mounts yield asymmetrical handling.

When to replace the entire shock vs only the mount
- Replace mounts only if shock rod is clean, seals intact, and damping is correct.
- Replace whole shock if: oil on body/rod, poor damping (bounces more than 2–3 times after push test), rod pitting, or internal noise. Mounts and shocks should be renewed together if mount damage is severe.

Analogy to remember the system
- Shock = syrup-damped piston (controls movement).
- Mount = rubber grip/hinge that holds the spoon (isolates vibration and transmits force). If the grip tears, the spoon rattles and the arm gets sore — same idea for the truck and driver.

After-repair checklist
- Tightness: all mounting bolts torqued to spec.
- Orientation: bushings, sleeves, washers installed as originally.
- Suspension at ride height when torqued if manual requires (common).
- Road test: smooth response, no clunks or vibrations.
- Re-inspect after 50–100 km for loose bolts and proper seating.

Estimated difficulty and time
- Beginner: 1–3 hours per shock mount depending on condition (seized bolts add time).
- Skill level: basic mechanical competence, ability to safely support vehicle, use of torque wrench, and basic rust removal skills.

Final safety reminder (no fuss)
- Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use rated stands and follow cab-tilt safety if fitting cab mounts. If you are unsure of any step, consult the official Isuzu workshop manual or a professional technician.

No extra questions asked — follow the steps, consult the truck manual for model-specific torque/sequence, and replace corroded hardware.
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Isuzu FTR Manual Regeneration Demonstration - UPDATED NOTE on How To Manage The DFP CORRECTION OF VIDEO NOTE - For additional reference see page 3-47 to 3-62 in the FTR Owner Manual. THE SYSTEM ...

Isuzu FTR Manual Regeneration Demonstration - UPDATED NOTE on How To Manage The DFP CORRECTION OF VIDEO NOTE - For additional reference see page 3-47 to 3-62 in the FTR Owner Manual. THE SYSTEM ...

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