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The Automatic Transmission 42RLE is a four-speed transmission that is a conventional hydraulic/mechanical assembly controlled with adaptive electronic controls and monitors. The hydraulic system of the transmission consists of the transmission fluid, fluid passages, hydraulic valves, and various line pressure control components.
Note: “Windshield repair” and “42RLE gearbox” are completely different jobs. Below are two concise, step‑by‑step procedures — one for windshield chip/replace on a Jeep and one for common service/repairs on the Jeep 42RLE automatic transmission — with tools, safety, tool usage, replacement parts and common pitfalls. No extra commentary.
A — Windshield chip repair or replacement (Jeep)
When to repair vs replace
- Repair chip/star (< ~1" diameter, not in driver line of sight, not reaching edge).
- Replace windshield if cracks > ~6–12", cracks reach edge, multiple long cracks, or heavy damage.
Tools & materials
- Windshield resin repair kit with bridge/injector and curing resin (for chip repair).
- Razor blades, alcohol wipes, lint‑free cloth.
- UV lamp (or sunlight) for curing.
- For replacement: trim tools, cold‑knife or power cut‑out wire, suction cup glass lifters, urethane windshield adhesive (automotive grade primer + urethane), 10–12 oz caulking gun for adhesive, primer for glass and pinchweld, masking tape, nitrile gloves, safety glasses, respirator (for solvents), shop towels, isopropyl alcohol.
- Misc: torque wrench (for removing trim), ratchet set, pry tools, suction handles, plastic panel tools.
Safety
- Wear safety glasses, cut‑resistant gloves when handling glass.
- Use respirator when using primers/adhesives.
- Support heavy glass with two people or suction lifters.
- Protect vehicle paint/trim with tape or pads.
- Work in dry, dust‑free environment; ambient temp per adhesive instructions.
Chip repair steps (inject resin)
1. Clean glass around chip with alcohol; remove any loose fragments with a razor.
2. Mount repair bridge centered over damage using suction pads.
3. Attach resin chamber / injector per kit. Create vacuum (if kit uses vacuum) to remove air and moisture from the chip, hold for specified time.
4. Inject resin under pressure; follow kit sequence: pressure cycle → wait → re‑inject if needed.
5. Cure resin with UV lamp or direct sunlight per kit instructions.
6. Remove bridge, scrape cured excess with razor, polish.
Replacement parts: resin, possibly the kit bridge if single‑use.
Common pitfalls: failing to remove loose glass or moisture, insufficient vacuum/injection cycles, undercuring, attempting repair on edge cracks or long cracks (will fail).
Windshield replacement steps
1. Remove exterior and interior trim, molding, mirror and sensors as required.
2. Score and cut urethane bead using cold knife or cut‑out wire; have helper hold glass. Use suction lifters to lift windshield out.
3. Clean pinchweld: remove old urethane, clean with solvent, inspect for rust/damage.
4. Prime pinchweld and glass per adhesive manufacturer instructions.
5. Apply continuous bead of automotive urethane with caulking gun to specified bead profile.
6. Using suction cups, set new windshield onto the bead; seat evenly, ensure proper gap to molding. Use removing tape/clamps to hold if required.
7. Reinstall trim, mirror, sensors. Do not drive or expose to water until adhesive cures to recommended time (often 1–24 hours depending on urethane and temperature).
Replacement parts: windshield glass, primer, urethane adhesive, molding clips (as needed).
Tool usage notes: cut‑out wire slices urethane cleanly; cold knife requires skill to avoid paint damage; suction cups are for safe glass handling; primer promotes adhesion.
Common pitfalls: inadequate primer or bead, trapped dirt/contaminants, setting glass misaligned, not allowing cure time (leaks/safety hazard).
B — Jeep 42RLE automatic transmission — common service (fluid/filter) and solenoid pack basics
Scope: routine fluid/filter service, pan gasket, solenoid pack replacement and common failure signs (slipping, harsh shifts, delayed engagement). More invasive internal rebuilds require full teardown and are beyond routine shop steps.
Tools & materials
- Jack and stands or lift, wheel chocks.
- Drain pan, shop rags, gloves, safety glasses.
- Socket set, metric/SAE depending on vehicle, torque wrench.
- Filter (transmission filter OEM for 42RLE), pan gasket or RTV (per parts), new pan gasket bolts if required.
- Clean transmission fluid: manufacturer‑specified ATF (for most 42RLE applications use Mopar ATF+4 or manufacturer‑specified ATF — follow vehicle manual). Typical refill quantity per service ~6–9 qt (partial drain).
- Solenoid/valve body gasket set and replacement solenoid pack (if doing solenoid replacement).
- Clean brake cleaner or ATF‑safe solvent, gasket scraper, magnetic pickup.
- RTV sealant, torque specs reference for bolts.
- OBD2 scanner to read codes and clear them; optionally handbrake wheel chocks and drain plug if fitted.
Safety
- Vehicle on level surface, blocked, securely supported on jack stands or lift.
- Transmission fluid will be hot — allow warm to cool slightly before draining.
- Always disconnect battery when removing electrical components like valve body/solenoid pack.
- Clean environment to avoid contamination getting into transmission.
Routine fluid & filter service steps
1. Warm up engine to operating temp (warm fluid drains faster). Park, set parking brake, block wheels, lift vehicle and support on stands.
2. Place drain pan under transmission pan. Remove pan bolts carefully; some vehicles have no drain plug. Loosen bolts progressively and let fluid puddle out.
3. Lower pan; be ready for additional fluid and filter drop. Inspect pan for metal flakes (use magnet).
4. Remove and replace transmission filter. Thoroughly clean pan and magnet; remove old gasket material from mating surfaces.
5. Install new gasket (or apply specified RTV bead) and re‑attach pan. Torque bolts in a crisscross pattern to specified torque.
6. Lower vehicle, fill transmission with correct ATF through dipstick tube (start with manufacturer‑recommended amount for pan drop service). Start engine, cycle through gears, check fluid level at operating temp and add to correct level.
Replacement parts: filter, pan gasket, ATF.
Tool usage: torque wrench for even bolt torque; gasket scraper carefully for clean mating surfaces; funnel or pump for filling.
Common pitfalls: overfilling (causes foaming/overpressure), underfilling (slipping), reusing damaged gasket, not cleaning magnet/pan, failing to check for metal debris which indicates internal wear.
Solenoid pack / valve body replacement basics (common higher‑level service)
Note: Valve body work is delicate—keep clean and organized. Some solenoid packs are a single replaceable assembly; others are part of valve body; always follow OEM procedure and torque specs.
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal. Lift and secure vehicle. Drain pan and remove pan as above. Remove valve body fasteners carefully; support valve body — several check balls and springs may be present. Keep parts in order.
2. Disconnect electrical connectors to solenoids and remove solenoid pack per service manual. If replacing entire valve body/solenoid assembly, transfer any needed brackets/sensors.
3. Install new solenoid pack with new gaskets/seal rings (if required). Replace any valve body gaskets and use proper torque sequence on bolts. Reinstall pan with new gasket.
4. Refill fluid, reconnect battery, clear codes with scanner. Perform relearn/shift adaptation procedure (some transmissions require TCM reset or relearn by cycling ignition and driving).
Replacement parts: solenoid pack assembly, valve body gasket(s), pan gasket, filter, ATF.
Tool usage: use torque wrench to ensure even, proper bolt torque; use clean rags and solvent to remove contamination; use an organized tray for small springs/balls.
Common pitfalls: losing check balls/springs (will cause hydraulic faults), contaminating valve body with dirt, improper torque (leaks or warped valve body), incorrect electrical connections, failing to replace filter/gasket, not performing TCM relearn leading to hard shifts.
When to rebuild / replace transmission
- Large metal debris in pan, burnt fluid smell, persistent slippage, no/low pressure, torque converter failure, or catastrophic internal wear → remove transmission for rebuild or replacement. That is a major job requiring transmission jack, rebuild kit (clutches, seals, bands, bushings, pump, torque converter if required) and factory service manual.
Diagnostics & codes
- Scan for transmission codes before disassembly; they guide whether solenoids, wiring, or hydraulics are at fault. Replace only what is indicated by symptoms and codes when possible.
Final notes and pitfalls to avoid
- Use only the OEM‑specified ATF. Wrong fluid causes shift issues and failures.
- Cleanliness is critical when working on valve body/solenoids. Even small contamination will cause erratic behavior.
- Replace filter and gasket whenever pan is dropped.
- Don’t overfill or underfill. Check level at specified temp and procedure.
- Keep track of valve body components (balls/springs) and torque values; consult factory manual for exact bolt torque and solenoid installation specs.
- If unsure on valve body/solenoid work, refer to full service manual or send to a transmission specialist; improper reassembly can destroy the transmission.
No additional questions asked. rteeqp73
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The NV3550 is a medium-duty, 5-speed, constant mesh, fully synchronized manual transmission. The transmission is available in two and four-wheel drive configurations.
The Automatic Transmission 42RLE is a four-speed transmission that is a conventional hydraulic/mechanical assembly controlled with adaptive electronic controls and monitors.