Tools & supplies
- Floor jack, jack stands (rated), wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or 1/2" drive impact/wrench
- Torque wrench (ft·lb range)
- Ratchet, breaker bar, metric socket set (8–21 mm commonly used)
- Hex/Allen/Torx set (some caliper guide bolts use hex)
- C‑clamp or dedicated caliper piston compressor (single‑piston tool)
- Brake piston wind‑back tool (for rear integrated parking‑brake calipers, if equipped)
- Small pry bar or flat screwdriver
- Wire brush, Scotch‑Brite pad
- Brake cleaner, shop rags
- High‑temp brake grease / silicone anti‑seize
- New brake pads (correct part number for vehicle/AXLE) and hardware kit (anti‑rattle clips/shims/pins)
- New rotors if below min thickness or badly scored
- Brake fluid (DOT 3/4 as specified in owner’s manual) and a syringe or turkey baster (optional)
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves, dust mask

Safety first
- Work on a level surface. Set parking brake and chock wheels opposite the corner you’re working on.
- Use jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.
- Do not use compressed air on dust; treat brake dust as hazardous (use wet rag and brake cleaner).
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Open master cylinder cap before compressing pistons to prevent pressure buildup and fluid overflow. Remove excess fluid with a syringe if necessary to avoid spilling.

Overview / notes specific to “Jeep with 42RLE”:
- The 42RLE is the transmission model and does not change standard disc brake pad replacement procedures. Verify whether the axle has rear disc or drum/parking‑brake components (many Jeeps have rear disc with integrated parking brake—these require a wind‑back tool for the piston).

Step‑by‑step: Front or rear disc pads (typical floating caliper)
1) Prep
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly while vehicle is on ground.

2) Lift & remove wheel
- Jack up vehicle and support securely on jack stands.
- Remove wheel and set aside.

3) Inspect
- Note pad wear, rotor condition, and caliper hardware. Check for leaking caliper or torn boots.
- Open master cylinder cap. If reservoir is near full, siphon out ~0.2–0.5 L into a clean container to avoid overflow when compressing piston.

4) Remove caliper
- Locate caliper sliding pins or mounting bolts. Remove the two caliper guide/slide bolts (outer and inner) — use appropriate socket/hex.
- Carefully pry caliper up off pads and hang it with a bungee or hanger. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
- On some setups you must remove the caliper bracket (2 large bolts) to remove the rotor; if rotor removal is necessary, unbolt the bracket.

5) Remove old pads & hardware
- Remove old pads and anti‑rattle clips. Clean the pad seating area with brake cleaner and wire brush.
- Inspect guide pins and boots. If pins are corroded or boots torn, replace or rebuild and clean/lubricate.

6) Remove or assess rotor
- If rotor is worn, grooved, or below minimum thickness replace it. Surface rust can be removed with wire brush or resurface if within spec.
- If rotor is stuck, remove retaining screw(s) (if present) and gently tap rotor hub with a rubber mallet.

7) Compress piston
- For floating calipers: place an old pad against the piston face to protect it and use a C‑clamp across the caliper to slowly compress the piston back into the bore until fully seated. Turn the clamp gradually, check the fluid level in the reservoir to avoid overflow.
- For rear calipers with screw‑in parking brake pistons: use the correct wind‑back tool that engages the piston flats or splines and rotate (direction depends on caliper—usually it screws in). If unsure, inspect piston face for notches/holes that show direction; consult OEM doc. Do not force; if resistance is high, remove caliper and use the tool in place for better leverage.
- Ensure the piston is flush and even; do not damage piston seals.

8) Install new pads & hardware
- Fit new anti‑rattle clips/shims to bracket per kit instructions.
- Lightly grease pad contact points (outer backing where it slides on bracket) with high‑temp brake grease. Do NOT get grease on friction surface or rotor.
- Install new pads into bracket/caliper.

9) Refit caliper
- Slide caliper back over pads/rotor. Ensure pads seat properly and any retaining pins/clips are in place.
- Reinstall caliper guide bolts with fresh thread lubricant where applicable (some specify Loctite—see manual). Tighten to manufacturer torque spec (SEE NOTE).
- If you removed the caliper bracket, reinstall and torque bracket bolts.

10) Wheel & lower
- Reinstall wheel; snug lug nuts by hand.
- Lower vehicle to ground and torque lug nuts to the wheel manufacturer’s spec in a star pattern.

11) Finalize
- Top up master cylinder fluid to max line if necessary. Replace cap.
- BEFORE driving, pump brake pedal firmly several times until pedal is firm to set pads against rotor.
- Check for leaks, odd noises, or dragging. Recheck caliper and wheel lug torque after first short drive.

12) Bedding in new pads (recommended)
- Perform a bedding procedure: 6–10 moderate stops from about 30–40 mph to ~5–10 mph without coming to full stop to transfer a layer of friction material to the rotor. Avoid hard stops for first 200 miles. Follow pad manufacturer instructions if specified.

Tools use details & tips
- C‑clamp: put old pad or a wooden block between clamp screw and piston to spread pressure; slowly tighten until piston is fully retracted and the clamp sits snug.
- Piston wind‑back tool: choose adapter to fit piston notches, thread center screw into or against caliper body and turn adapter to wind piston back. Wind until piston is flush and starter threads of tool are no longer engaged; proceed slowly.
- Slide pins: remove, clean with wire brush, inspect for pitting; lubricate with silicone grease and reinstall to allow free movement.
- Rusted bolts: soak with penetrating oil; use breaker bar or impact if safe. Heat can be used carefully to free stubborn bolts.

Replacement parts typically required
- New brake pads (vehicle/axle specific)
- Pad hardware kit (clips, anti‑squeal shims, pins)
- Rotors if worn or below min thickness
- New caliper or caliper rebuild kit if leaking or sticking
- New guide pin boots or pins if damaged
- Brake fluid if topping up or bleeding

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Overfilling master cylinder: siphon before compressing pistons to prevent overflow and ABS damage.
- Not supporting caliper hose: hanging by hose will damage it—use a hanger.
- Contaminating pads/rotors with grease or brake fluid — keep friction surfaces clean.
- Improper piston retraction on rear parking‑brake calipers — use the correct wind‑back tool; forcing a piston can damage the internal screw.
- Reusing old hardware or shims that are corroded — causes noise and uneven wear; replace hardware.
- Not torquing bolts to spec or torquing wheel lugs incorrectly — check factory specs; retorque after first drive.
- Not pumping the pedal before driving — causes long pedal travel and potential damage until pads seat.
- Blowing brake dust with compressed air — use wet cleaning to avoid inhaling asbestos/particulates.

Torque/spec notes
- Torque specs vary by model/year. Always verify factory torque values in the service manual for caliper bracket bolts, caliper guide bolts, and wheel lug nuts. If you need to proceed without a manual, use common torque ranges: caliper bracket bolts often 70–120 ft·lb; guide pins 20–40 ft·lb; wheel lug nuts per wheel spec (typically 80–100 ft·lb on many Jeeps) — but these are only approximations. Confirm exact specs before final torque.

Quick checklist after installation
- Brake fluid level correct and cap on.
- No leaks around caliper or hose.
- Caliper slide movement free.
- Wheel lug nuts torqued.
- Pedal feels firm after pumping.
- Test drive at low speed, check braking function and noise.

That’s the direct, shop‑standard procedure. Follow vehicle service manual for model‑specific details (bolts, torque, rear parking‑brake piston direction) where needed.
rteeqp73

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