- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Work on a level surface, chock wheels, set parking brake, and disconnect the negative battery terminal if you will be working near sensors or electrical connectors.
- Use jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.

- Identify the bearing type on your Jeep (important before starting)
- Sealed hub assembly (common, easiest): the entire hub/hub bearing unit unbolts from the knuckle and comes as a sealed unit. Replace the whole hub.
- Serviceable bearing (older/cheaper/hub-with-bearing-races): bearings and races are pressed in/out of the hub/knuckle. Requires a press or puller to remove/press bearings and races.
- How to check: remove wheel and brake rotor. If you see a one-piece hub with 3–4 bolts to the knuckle and wheel studs integral to the hub, it’s likely a sealed hub. If the hub is pressed on or you see snap rings/races, it’s serviceable.

- Parts commonly required (why and what)
- Replacement hub assembly (preferred if sealed): replaces worn bearing and hub as one part, saves time, no press needed.
- Bearing kit (inner/outer bearings, races, seals) if hub is serviceable: required because bearings wear, races get pitted, seals leak grease.
- Axle nut (recommended replacement): often single-use torque-to-yield; replace to ensure proper preload and safety.
- Wheel studs (if damaged): studs stretch/corrode during removal; replace if damaged.
- Brake hardware/seals/pads (inspect): if rotor removal damages or brake pads are worn, replace as needed.
- High-temp wheel bearing grease (if serviceable bearings): needed to pack bearings before assembly.
- Thread locker (blue) for retaining bolts if manufacturer calls for it.
- Anti-seize for hub-to-rotor/mating surfaces (optional) for future disassembly.

- Basic tools you should already have (and how to use them)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Use on the vehicle manufacturer’s jacking point. Lift vehicle until wheel clears the ground then place jack stands under sturdy subframe/axle points. Lower onto stands.
- Jack stands
- Place under rated lift point, lower vehicle onto stands. Test stability before working under vehicle.
- Wheel chocks
- Put behind opposite wheels to prevent roll.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with appropriate socket for lug nuts
- Break lug nuts loose while car on ground, then remove after vehicle is lifted.
- Combination wrenches and a socket set (metric & SAE)
- Use correct-size socket/wrench to avoid rounding bolts. Use six-point sockets for high torque.
- Torque wrench (toft-lb range)
- Use for axle nut, lug nuts, and suspension/knuckle bolts. Set required torque and turn until click/indication.
- Hammer and punch
- Light hammering to remove cotter pins or knock out dust caps. Use a drift or punch to remove stubborn clips.
- Needle-nose pliers & snap-ring (circlip) pliers
- Remove/install cotter pins and snap rings that retain bearings or seals.
- Pry bar
- Gently separate components like rotor from hub if rusted; avoid excessive force near axle splines.
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- For small prying tasks and removing dust caps.
- Wire brush and brake cleaner
- Clean mating surfaces of rust and old grease before reassembly.
- Grease gun (optional, for serviceable bearings that use grease fittings)
- Use if there’s a grease fitting to repack bearings.

- Extra tools you may need and why (detailed descriptions and usage)
- Impact wrench (air or battery) with correct sockets
- Useful to remove stubborn axle nut and caliper/brake bolts quickly. If you don’t have one, a long breaker bar and cheater pipe provide leverage.
- Use square-drive socket attachment sized for axle nut.
- Large axle nut socket (33mm/32mm/36mm common — check your Jeep)
- Special deep socket that fits over the axle shaft and onto the nut. Required to remove and install axle nut.
- Hub puller or slide hammer with hub adapter
- Removes a stuck hub from the axle/knuckle due to corrosion. The puller threads into hub or grips it; slide hammer provides axial force to pull it out.
- Bearing puller / 3-jaw puller or puller cups
- Extracts pressed bearings from knuckle/hub in serviceable setups.
- Hydraulic press or shop press (12–30 ton)
- Presses bearings in/out of hubs and presses new races into knuckles. Required for serviceable bearing replacement. Without a press, you must use specialized pullers/drivers, but some jobs require a press for safe, controlled installation.
- Bearing race driver / bearing press adapters and sockets
- Ensures even, square installation of bearings and races without damaging them. Use sockets that match outer diameter of bearing or race and tap evenly with a hammer or use press.
- Heat gun or torch (propane)
- Heat knuckle/hub area slightly to free rusted components (use caution; do not overheat seals or bearings). Helps expand metal to ease removal.
- Bearing packer (manual) or practice packing by hand
- For packing grease into tapered roller bearings if serviceable.

- Step-by-step procedure (general; model-specific variations exist; follow factory service manual for torque specs)
- Prepare vehicle: chock rear wheels, loosen lug nuts slightly, lift vehicle with floor jack, put on jack stands, remove wheel.
- Remove brake caliper and rotor: unbolt caliper, hang it with zip tie/ hanger — do not let it hang from brake hose; remove rotor (may be held by screws or rusted on; use pry or hammer as needed).
- Remove axle nut and hub assembly (sealed-hub route)
- Remove dust cap or cotter pin if present.
- Use impact or breaker bar and axle nut socket to remove axle nut.
- Unbolt hub from knuckle (usually 3–4 bolts behind hub) and slide hub out from splined axle. Use hub puller or slide hammer if stuck.
- Clean mating surfaces, install new sealed hub assembly with bolts torqued to spec, install new axle nut (if required replace), torque to factory spec, reinstall dust cap/cotter pin as required.
- Remove hub and replace bearings (serviceable-bearings route)
- Remove hub/rotor as above. Use snap-ring pliers to remove retaining ring(s) if present.
- Use a press or bearing puller to press the outer bearing and inner bearing out of the hub; remove races from knuckle with a puller or punch.
- Clean knuckle thoroughly; install new races using a race driver or press to seat them squarely to correct depth.
- Pack bearings with appropriate high-temp wheel bearing grease (press grease into roller bearings until visibly full) or use a bearing packer tool.
- Install bearings into hub, install new seals, slide hub onto axle, preload bearings by tightening axle nut to manufacturer-specified preload (this may involve specific torque + back-off or using torque to set bearing preload; see manual).
- Install cotter pin or new axle nut per spec.
- Reassemble brakes and wheel: reinstall rotor, caliper, torque bolts to spec, put wheel on, hand-tighten lug nuts.
- Lower vehicle and torque lug nuts to spec with torque wrench.
- Test and bed-in: gently roll vehicle to ensure no binding; test drive carefully for noise, play, ABS or speed sensor errors. Re-torque after short drive if recommended.

- How to use key tools (practical tips)
- Jack and jack stands: position jack under manufacturer jacking point; lift; place stands under reinforced points; lower slowly until secure. Give vehicle a push to verify stability.
- Breaker bar vs. impact: breaker bar gives slow, controllable leverage. Use 6- to 12-inch extension for extra torque. If stuck, apply penetrating oil and let sit. Use impact wrench for fast removal but use caution when reinstalling torque-critical fasteners — always finish with torque wrench to spec.
- Torque wrench: set desired torque, tighten slowly until click. For torque-angle specs, use torque wrench with angle gauge or mark bolt and rotate specified degrees.
- Hub puller/slide hammer: thread bolts into hub evenly; strike slide hammer progressively; don’t pry on knuckle housing to avoid damage.
- Press and bearing driver: center bearing on arbor, press straight and steady — avoid cocking. Use a driver that contacts only the bearing outer race when pressing in; when removing, apply force to inner race if pushing out, outer race if pulling, per design.
- Bearing packing by hand: press a gloved thumb into grease and force through rollers from the back of the bearing until grease oozes out between rollers. Do not spin the bearing at high speed while packing — keep hand pressure controlled.

- Signs you should replace parts (diagnostics)
- Wheel bearing noise (growl/rumble that changes with speed) and play in the wheel (wiggle at 12/6 and 3/9 o’clock): bearings worn — replace hub or bearings/races.
- ABS or speed sensor fault codes after hub work: sensor or tone ring damaged — inspect and replace as needed.
- Excessive grease leakage or rust on races/hub: seals failed — replace seals and bearings/hub.
- Rough or pitted races when hub disassembled: races must be replaced if pitted.

- Final checks and break-in
- Torque all fasteners to factory specs (suspension, hub bolts, axle nut, caliper bolts, lug nuts).
- If bearing preload method requires it (e.g., torque then back-off to align cotter pin), follow manual exactly.
- Test drive carefully, listen for noise, re-check torque after 50–100 miles.
- Proper disposal: old grease, bearings, and any contaminated parts should be disposed of per local regulations.

- If you are a complete beginner — recommended approach
- If the hub is sealed: buy a direct-fit replacement sealed hub assembly and replace it — this is the safest and simplest route with basic tools (no press required).
- If the hub is serviceable and you don’t own a press or pullers: either purchase/borrow the press/pullers or have a machine shop or local mechanic press the bearings/races for you. Attempting to hammer bearings and races without the right tools risks damage and unsafe reassembly.

- Important final note (safety & accuracy)
- Exact bolt sizes, axle nut size, torque values, bearing preload procedure, and whether the hub is sealed vs serviceable depend on year/model and front/rear application. Use the factory service manual or a reputable repair guide for your exact Jeep model and the 42RLE-equipped vehicle’s year for precise specs and sequence.
rteeqp73

AW4 TRANSMISSION TEARDOWN - JEEP CHEROKEE This is a basic teardown of an AW4 Transmission also known as an A340E on a 2 wheel drive and A340F on a 4 wheel drive ...

Automatic Transmission Swap in my Jeep Wrangler TJ, Part 1 In this video I am starting the AX15 manual transmission swap to a Jeep Wrangler YJ 32RH 3 speed automatic transmission.

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