Concise manual for repairing the transmission “suspension” (mount/crossmember and related parts that hold up the 42RLE gearbox) on a Jeep — written for a beginner mechanic. No extra chatter.

1) Big-picture theory — why this repair is needed
- The transmission is a heavy, torque-producing unit that must be rigidly supported to keep driveline angles correct and to isolate vibration from the chassis. The transmission mount(s) and crossmember do that job.
- A mount is typically metal bonded to rubber. The rubber absorbs vibration and allows tiny movement. Over time the rubber tears, compresses, or is contaminated by oil/heat and fails. When the mount fails the transmission can sag, shift position, increase driveline angle, cause clunks under acceleration/braking, and transmit vibration into the cabin.
- Analogy: the mount is like a pillow holding a heavy lamp over a table. If the pillow flattens or rips, the lamp tilts, bangs the table, and the cord (driveshaft/shift linkage) gets stressed.
- If you don’t fix a bad mount, you risk broken studs/bolts, damaged driveshaft u-joints or CVs, torn wiring/cooler lines, poor shifting, or accelerated wear elsewhere.

2) System overview — how it works (components and what each does)
- Transmission housing (42RLE tail housing and case): the gearbox body. Bolts to engine bellhousing and contains internal gears/parking pawl/torque converter connection.
- Crossmember (transmission crossmember): a steel bracket bolted to the vehicle frame/subframe. It physically supports the transmission mount and transfers load to the frame.
- Transmission mount (isolation mount): rubber/metal assembly that bolts between transmission case (or crossmember bracket) and the crossmember. Dampens vibration and allows controlled movement.
- Mount bolts/studs/washers: fasteners that hold mount to transmission and crossmember to frame. Often there are through-bolts with nuts and sometimes pressed studs into the transmission.
- Driveshaft/Slip yoke or output shaft: connects transmission output to differential or transfer case — alignment depends on mount position.
- Shift linkage/cable and sensors wiring: attached to the transmission and must have slack when you move the transmission for mount removal.
- Transmission cooler lines: carry fluid to an external cooler; often routed near the crossmember. Must be clear of mounts and not strained.
- Exhaust, heat shields, skid plates: often in the way and must be moved to access mount/crossmember.
- Fasteners to frame/subframe: crossmember bolts and flange nuts that secure the assembly to the vehicle frame.

3) Common failure modes / what can go wrong
- Rubber degradation: causes sagging and vibration.
- Bolt/stud fatigue or corrosion: causes looseness or drops.
- Crossmember bending or cracking from impact or corrosion.
- Oil/ATF contamination accelerating rubber failure.
- Improper reinstallation: wrong torque, missed alignment causing driveline vibration.
- Damage to cooler lines, wiring, linkage during disassembly.
- Dropping the transmission if insufficient support — catastrophic and dangerous.

4) Symptoms indicating mount/crossmember repair needed
- Excessive vibration at idle or while accelerating.
- Loud clunking when shifting into gear, accelerating or decelerating.
- Visible sagging or misalignment of the transmission.
- Ripped or distorted rubber mount upon inspection.
- Driveshaft vibration, binding, or unusual angles.
- Unusual noises from under the vehicle near transmission.

5) Tools & supplies (minimum)
- Wheel chocks, safety glasses, gloves.
- Proper jack (transmission jack preferred) and several jack stands or a lift. Heavy-block wood pad for jack tops.
- Floor jack to support transmission/trans jack.
- Socket set (metric and SAE), deep sockets, extensions.
- Breaker bar, ratchet, torque wrench (calibrated).
- Wrenches, pry bar, hammer, rubber mallet.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, etc.), wire brush.
- Replacement transmission mount (correct OEM or quality aftermarket), new bolts/nuts if corroded.
- Replacement crossmember if corroded/cracked.
- Shop manual or factory torque specs (recommended).
- Rags and drip pan for any fluid that may leak.
- Service light or work lamp.

6) Step-by-step procedure (typical; adapt to vehicle specifics; follow factory manual for your model/year)
Safety note: work on a stable, level surface. Never rely on a jack alone. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be removing electrical connectors or working near starter.

A. Prep and inspection
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Raise vehicle securely on jack stands (use jacking points). Confirm it’s stable.
- Visually inspect mount, crossmember, bolts, and adjacent components for damage.
- Remove skid plate, heat shields, or exhaust items obstructing access. Be ready to support moved parts.

B. Support the transmission
- Place a floor jack with a block of wood under the transmission pan or tail housing to support weight. Use a transmission jack if available.
- Only support the transmission enough to take the weight; do not push it forward/backward with the jack unless directed by steps below.

C. Relieve connected components
- Loosen/remove any parts that would prevent lowering the mount: driveshaft/prop shaft (either disconnect at yoke or unbolt flange — mark orientation for reassembly), shift linkage bracket if it limits movement, any wiring harness brackets, and cooler lines clips that attach to crossmember. Do not disconnect engine/transmission ground wires unless noted.
- Note: some vehicles allow mount replacement without removing driveshaft; others require slight lowering. Keep components supported and labeled.

D. Remove crossmember and mount
- Apply penetrating oil to bolts and let soak.
- Support the crossmember with jack if needed.
- Remove crossmember-to-frame bolts (usually large grade bolts). Keep track of washers/plates.
- Remove mount-to-transmission bolts or nuts. There may be studs; inspect for sheared studs.
- With mount free, lower crossmember and mount assembly carefully on the jack. If only replacing mount, unbolt mount from crossmember and swap new mount in place.

E. Install new mount/crossmember
- Compare old and new mount to ensure correct orientation.
- If reusing crossmember, clean bolt holes, remove rust and apply anti-seize to bolts threads as appropriate.
- Raise crossmember/mount into position, start bolts by hand to ensure threads align.
- Torque mount-to-transmission bolts and crossmember-to-frame bolts to factory specification. If you don’t have factory specs, torque carefully: mount bolts often 40–90 ft-lbs; crossmember bolts can be higher. Verify exact numbers in factory manual.
- Reattach any brackets, wiring clips, cooler lines, linkage previously removed. Ensure no wires/hoses are pinched or contacting hot/moving parts.

F. Reconnect driveshaft and other components
- Reinstall driveshaft aligning marks made earlier. Tighten bolts to spec.
- Reinstall skid plate, heat shield, exhaust parts removed.
- Lower jack slightly to seat mount, then torque all bolts again to spec with weight on mounts (some mount bolts are torqued with vehicle weight on wheels — check manual).

G. Final checks
- Lower vehicle from stands carefully.
- Reconnect battery negative if disconnected.
- Start engine, observe idle and transmission for vibration/noise.
- With parking brake on, shift through gears to test for clunks or binding.
- Test drive at low speed to check for vibration, noise, and proper shifting.
- After a short drive, recheck torque on mount bolts and check for leaks.

7) Inspection notes and what to watch for during/after repair
- If you see excessive movement of the transmission with new mount, check for incorrect mount or missing spacer.
- If vibration persists, check driveline U-joints, transfer case/differential alignment, engine mounts (often engine mounts fail similarly), and wheel/tire balance.
- If a bolt breaks or stud shears, remove carefully with extractor or replace stud; do not leave a damaged fastener.
- If cooler lines leak after reassembly, clamp them, replace fittings, or reconnect properly.

8) Troubleshooting common issues after mount replacement
- Continued clunking: check all brackets and linkages, and ensure mount is the correct part and oriented correctly.
- New vibration: verify driveshaft alignment (angle), carrier bearing (if applicable), and engine mounts.
- Fluid leak observed: check cooler lines, pan bolts, and sensor fittings disturbed during removal.

9) Safety warnings (do not skip)
- Never crawl under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands or a lift.
- Supporting the transmission incorrectly can let it drop and cause severe injury or damage.
- Transmission fluid and hot parts can burn; allow cooling time.
- Use proper torque values; over- or under-torquing fasteners can cause failure.

10) Final recommendations
- Use OEM or high-quality aftermarket mounts. Cheap mounts fail sooner.
- Replace corroded bolts and hardware. Use anti-seize or thread locker as specified.
- Keep a factory service manual or online repair guide for your specific Jeep model/year — it contains exact procedures and torque specs for 42RLE installations and related components.
- If internal transmission issues exist (hard shifting, slipping, fluid contamination), do not assume a mount replacement will fix them — those require separate diagnosis.

This gives you the theory, every component involved, what fails, and a practical safe procedure to replace the transmission mount/crossmember that “suspends” a 42RLE gearbox. Follow vehicle-specific manual for exact bolt locations and torque values.
rteeqp73

Jeep (TJ) Wrangler Automatic Transmission Kickdown Adjustment Is your transmission not shifting correctly? One of the things you can try is adjusting the kickdown band in the transmission.

HOW TO USE THE TIP-TRONIC TRANSMISSION ON A JEEP HOW TO USE THE TIP-TRONIC TRANSMISSION ON A JEEP https://www.twinpineautogroup.com ...

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