What you’re calling the “distributor” on a Jeep 42RLE is almost certainly the separator (or “distributor”) plate in the transmission valve body — the thin steel plate that routes hydraulic oil between the valve body and the transmission case. Below I’ll explain what that plate and every related component is, why and when it must be repaired, how the whole hydraulic/electronic system works (plain English + analogies), what commonly goes wrong, and then a clear, practical step‑by‑step procedure to replace/inspect the separator plate and the related components. This is written for a beginner mechanic; follow safety precautions and consult a factory service manual for exact torque values and model‑specific details.

Short summary first
- The separator plate is a thin stamped steel plate that seals and directs hydraulic passages between valve body and case. If it is damaged, warped, clogged or its check balls are missing/misplaced, hydraulic pressures and passages can be wrong → delayed, hard, slipping or no shifts. Replacing it (and the pan filter and gasket) is a common valve body service that often fixes shifting problems.
- The job: drop pan, remove filter, remove valve body, replace separator plate (and check balls/springs if needed), clean, reinstall valve body and pan, refill ATF, run and check.

Key components you will see and what each does (plain language + analogies)
1. Transmission oil pan
- What: shallow metal pan bolted under the transmission that collects ATF.
- Role: fluid reservoir, holds filter, pan gasket.
- Analogy: the bathtub that catches the flow and hides the plumbing.

2. Pan gasket and bolts
- What: gasket seals pan to case; bolts hold it.
- Role: keeps fluid from leaking.
- Tip: always replace the gasket (reusable some types, but new gasket best practice).

3. Transmission filter (suction screen)
- What: screen or cartridge that filters debris before fluid is drawn into the pump.
- Role: protects pump and valve body from contamination.
- Analogy: the strainer on a sink.

4. Valve body
- What: a large cast aluminum assembly with many drilled passages and bores containing spool valves, check valves, and mounting points for solenoids and sensors.
- Role: the “brain/traffic controller” for hydraulic fluid; it directs pressure to clutch packs and servos to produce the gears.
- Analogy: an air-traffic control tower that routes planes (fluid) to runways (clutch circuits).

5. Separator (distributor) plate (the “distributor”)
- What: a thin stamped steel plate that sits between the valve body and the transmission case. It has cutouts, holes and channels that form the passages mating the porting in the valve body to the cast bores in the case.
- Role: routes hydraulic fluid precisely. Also provides seats for check balls and small springs that act as one‑way valves.
- Why it’s critical: if holes don’t align, or plate is warped, or check balls are missing/worn, fluid leaks or goes down wrong passages — shifting fails.

6. Check balls and springs
- What: small hardened steel balls and sometimes tiny springs that sit in apertures in the separator plate.
- Role: act as on/off valves or pressure relief seals to route fluid in one direction or lock a passage under pressure.
- Analogy: little marbles that close a doorway when needed.

7. Solenoids and wiring harness
- What: electromagnetic devices bolted to the valve body, controlled by the TCM (transmission control module).
- Role: open or close fluid passages under electronic command — work with the valve body spools.
- Analogy: electric switches controlled by the controller.

8. Spool valves and pilot bores
- What: sliding valves inside valve body bores that move under spring, pressure and solenoid command to open/close passages.
- Role: change which passages are connected; precisely modulate pressure.
- Analogy: sliding gates inside waterworks.

9. Pump (front cover & pump guts)
- What: mechanical pump driven by the torque converter that generates system pressure.
- Role: creates the hydraulic pressure the valve body uses.
- Analogy: the water pump that pushes water into the plumbing network.

10. Clutch packs, servos, bands
- What: actuated by hydraulic pressure to lock planetary gearsets and create gears.
- Role: actually make the transmission shift physically, using hydraulic pressure the valve body supplies.

11. Torque converter
- What: fluid coupling between engine and transmission.
- Role: transfers engine torque into the transmission; contains the turbine and pump that feed fluid to the pump.

Why this repair is needed — the theory in plain terms
- The transmission is a hydraulic system. The valve body + separator plate form the plumbing map. If the map gets damaged, dirty or incorrectly assembled, the fluid flows where it shouldn’t (internal leaks) and pressure to clutches is lost or goes to the wrong clutch. Symptoms: delayed engagement (1st), slipping, harsh or late upshifts or downshifts, no reverse, limp mode or transmission codes. Replacing or re‑stacking the separator plate and ensuring check balls/filter are correct removes unwanted internal leaks and restores proper routing so pressure rises cleanly when the valve body calls for it.

What can go wrong (common failure modes)
- Worn/warped separator plate: causes internal cross‑leaks and incorrect routing.
- Missing/displaced check balls/springs: severe leaks, wrong circuits open.
- Gummed/clogged filter: low fluid flow → pump cavitation and poor pressure.
- Valve body bolts not torqued or wrong sequence: warping or leaks.
- Debris or metal shavings in pan: clues of internal wear (gear/clutch damage).
- Solenoids failed electrically: valve body can't shift correctly; but even good solenoids won’t help if separator plate is bad.
- Old/burnt ATF: reduced lubricity and friction characteristics → slipping and clutch wear.
- Improper reassembly (wrong ball in wrong hole, wrong orientation): immediate malfunction; least obvious and common mistake.

Tools, parts and supplies you’ll need
- New separator (distributor) plate (OEM or exact replacement)
- Small packs of replacement check balls/springs if required by service bulletin
- Valve body gasket / pan gasket / pan bolts if needed
- New transmission filter (suction screen)
- New pan gasket and new pan bolts or washers as required
- ATF+4 (Chrysler specified ATF) — amount per manual (have extra)
- Basic tools: set of metric sockets and ratchets, torque wrench, extension bars
- 3/8" or 1/2" drive depending on bolt sizes
- Picks / small screwdrivers (for springs/balls), magnet tool
- Clean rags, parts tray, brake cleaner or transmission‑safe solvent
- Drain pan, funnel, gloves, safety glasses, jack stands/ramps
- Service manual or torque spec sheet (very important)

Safety first
- Work on a flat surface, set parking brake, chock wheels. Disconnect negative battery. Support vehicle on jack stands — never rely on a jack. Catch fluid; ATF is slippery and toxic. Dispose of fluid properly.

Step‑by‑step procedure (beginner friendly, with tips)
Notes: take lots of pictures as you go — of valve body, separator plate, and locations of check balls/springs. Work methodically and keep parts in order.

1) Prep
- Warm up the engine 2–3 minutes so ATF flows but is not scalding hot. Turn off engine.
- Raise vehicle and support with jack stands high enough to get under comfortably. Chock wheels.

2) Drain fluid and remove pan
- Place drain pan under transmission.
- Loosen pan bolts starting at one corner to allow slow drain (remove corner bolts first to let fluid drain gradually — keep pan level).
- Remove pan, catch all fluid.
- Inspect pan magnets and metal debris — note color & quantity. Big chunks = internal damage; clean magnets.

3) Remove the filter
- The filter is usually secured by a couple of bolts or simply snaps in. Remove it and observe how it fits.
- Inspect the old filter — heavy debris or dark fluid = wear.

4) Access valve body
- Disconnect all electrical connectors on valve body (careful with plastics). Label connectors or take a picture.
- Remove valve body to case bolts in a cross pattern; support valve body with one hand as bolts come out — it’s heavy.
- Lower valve body slowly — don't drop it; there are thin passages and delicate parts.

5) Separate valve body from separator plate
- Remove bolts holding the valve body and gently lift valve body off of separator plate.
- Set the valve body on a clean bench on a soft cloth (do not press on solenoids or bores).
- Note orientation of the plate. There are locations where check balls sit; some are held by small springs. Use pictures and a magnetic pickup to retrieve balls if they come out.

6) Remove the separator plate
- Carefully unbolt and lift the separator plate away from the case. Take careful inventory: how many check balls, where each spring and ball is located — photograph top and bottom of the plate. If the plate was damaged or warped, you’ll often see scoring, corrosion or crushed edges.
- Inspect the mating surfaces for nicks and debris.

7) Inspect check balls, springs and bores
- Count and size the balls — some locations use different sizes. Inspect for pits, flat spots or wear. Replace any suspect balls.
- Inspect spool bores in valve body and case for corrosion, scoring or sludge. Clean with transmission‑safe solvent; do not scratch surfaces.

8) Replace the separator plate and filter
- Clean the valve body and case gasket surfaces with lint‑free cloth.
- Install the new separator plate the correct way. Place check balls and springs exactly where they belong (refer to pictures or factory diagram). This is the step most people mess up — a ball in the wrong hole = wrong circuit.
- Reinstall valve body, making sure it sits flat and is indexed properly.
- Torque valve body bolts in the specified sequence and to factory torque values. (Do not “guess” torque.)

9) Reinstall filter and pan
- Reinstall new filter, secure bolts to spec.
- Clean pan mating surfaces, install new pan gasket or gasket material.
- Install pan and torque bolts in a crisscross fashion to specified torque.

10) Refill and bleed
- Lower the vehicle. Refill with the correct ATF (42RLE uses Mopar ATF+4 on Chrysler systems — confirm for your application). Use funnel to add an initial amount (consult manual for approximate amount) — you’ll top off later.
- Reconnect battery.

11) Start, cycle and check
- Start engine and move shifter through all gears with foot on brake; this helps pump ATF through the valve body and torque converter and seats clutches.
- With the engine idling and transmission warm (follow manufacturer’s instructions for temp), check ATF level on dipstick and add to proper level. Leveling is usually checked with engine idling and fluid at operating temp with shifter in Park, but confirm factory procedure for exact timing & temp.

12) Final test drive & verification
- Test drive, monitoring shifting behavior. Warm up the car and recheck fluid level and for leaks.
- If shifts are hard or erratic, check for missed bolts, mislocated balls or electrical faults. Scan for transmission codes.

Common gotchas and tips
- Photograph everything before removal. The separator plate and check balls can be one of many slightly different versions — ensure you have the correct replacement.
- Never mix fluid types. Use ATF+4 or the spec indicated for your Jeep.
- Do not overtighten pan bolts — aluminum case threads strip easily.
- If you find large metal chunks on the magnet/pan, internal component failure is likely and a rebuild may be required.
- If the transmission has electrical fault codes, address those too; a new plate won’t fix bad sensors or solenoids.
- Always replace filter and pan gasket when doing this service.

When to not do this yourself / when to seek pro help
- If you find large metal debris or internal parts shredded, you likely need a full rebuild or replacement — consult a transmission shop.
- If you aren’t comfortable removing the valve body or working with the small check balls and springs, have a pro do it. Misplaced balls are a common and expensive mistake.

Brief troubleshooting guide after reassembly
- No forward movement after service: check that check balls are in place, pump intake not blocked, fluid level, and electrical connectors.
- Harsh shifts or slipping: low fluid level, wrong fluid, misassembled separator plate, worn clutch packs.
- Codes P0750–P0770 etc: may indicate solenoid issues; verify electrical and valve body mechanical condition.

Final notes
- The separator (distributor) plate is small and simple-looking but critical; it’s where “hydraulic routing” happens. Treat it like the transmission’s plumbing map — any hole out of place changes behavior.
- Take your time, document locations of every ball/spring and bolt, use a torque wrench, and use the correct ATF. If you are thorough, replacing the separator plate and filter often restores correct shifting and prolongs transmission life.

No unnecessary extra talk — that’s the complete beginner’s guide to what the separator/distributor plate is, why you’d replace it on a Jeep 42RLE, what parts to inspect/replace, how the system works, and a stepwise procedure to do the job. Follow a factory service manual for torque values, bolt sequences and fill procedures for your exact year/model.
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