- Safety first (read this before doing anything)
- Work on a vehicle only on a flat, level surface with the parking brake on and wheels chocked.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and sturdy shoes. Transmission components are heavy and can crush or pinch.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always use properly rated jack stands under the vehicle frame.
- If you are unsure, stop and have a professional do the job. Transmission repairs can cause serious damage or personal injury if done incorrectly.

- Important note about terminology (so you don’t get the wrong job)
- “Strut” can mean two different things in relation to a 42RLE Jeep transmission:
- External transmission support/engine-to-transmission mount (“transmission mount” or “torque strut”) — common beginner job.
- Internal transmission component often called a “strut” or support inside the valve body/servo area — an internal rebuild/repair and not a beginner task.
- The instructions below first cover the external transmission mount replacement (suitable for a beginner with basic tools). After that is a brief description of the internal strut situation and why that requires a transmission specialist.

- Tools you will need for external transmission-mount/strut replacement (each tool explained and how to use it)
- Floor jack (2‑ton or larger)
- Purpose: lift the transmission/engine slightly to relieve load from the mount.
- How to use: position under the transmission pan or an engine crossmember with a block of wood on the jack saddle to protect metal surfaces. Pump handle to raise; lower slowly using release valve.
- Jack stands (pair rated for the vehicle weight)
- Purpose: safely support the vehicle after lifting.
- How to use: place under designated frame or axle lift points; raise vehicle with floor jack to the stands, lower onto stands slowly.
- Wheel chocks
- Purpose: prevent the vehicle from rolling.
- How to use: place in front of and/or behind the wheels remaining on the ground.
- Socket set with ratchet (metric and SAE sockets; 3/8" and 1/2" drive)
- Purpose: remove mount bolts and brackets.
- How to use: fit the correct socket to a bolt head, hold ratchet firmly, and apply steady force. Use breaker bar if stuck.
- Breaker bar
- Purpose: extra leverage for stubborn bolts.
- How to use: attach socket and pull slowly and steadily—avoid jerking.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, appropriate range, e.g., 10–150 ft‑lb)
- Purpose: tighten bolts to specified torque to avoid failure or leaks.
- How to use: set desired torque, tighten until the wrench clicks; consult factory torque specifications for exact values.
- Extension bars and universal joints (for hard-to-reach bolts)
- Purpose: reach bolts at awkward angles.
- How to use: add extension between ratchet and socket; universal joint allows angle.
- Pry bar (stiff)
- Purpose: align the mount holes or separate the old mount.
- How to use: use gently to lever the transmission slightly; protect painted surfaces with cloth.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40 Specialist, etc.)
- Purpose: free rusted/stuck bolts.
- How to use: spray on bolt threads, let soak several minutes before attempting removal.
- Wire brush and rags
- Purpose: clean mating surfaces and bolts.
- How to use: brush away rust/debris and wipe clean before installing new mount.
- Replacement parts (described below)
- Safety glasses and mechanic gloves
- Purpose: personal protection from fluid, metal, and debris.

- Optional but highly recommended tools (why they help)
- Transmission jack or second floor jack with wood cradle
- Why required if you need to lower the transmission: a transmission is heavy and awkward; a proper transmission jack supports it safely while you remove the mount.
- Impact wrench (air or cordless) or electric ratchet
- Why helpful: speeds bolt removal; still verify final torque with a manual torque wrench.
- Service manual or factory repair guide (Haynes/Chilton or OEM manual)
- Why required: gives specific bolt locations, torque specs, lift points, and diagrams for your exact model/year/VIN.
- Torque angle gauge (only if factory spec calls for angle tightening)
- Why required: some fasteners require angle torque instead of a simple ft‑lb setting.

- Parts you may need (what to replace and why)
- Replacement transmission mount / torque strut (OEM or aftermarket)
- Why: rubber deteriorates, metal cracks, or bolt holes elongate. A failed mount allows excessive movement and causes vibration, misalignment, or drivetrain damage.
- What to buy: match the part to your Jeep model/year/engine using VIN or OEM part number; buy a mount kit that includes bushings and bolts if available.
- New mounting bolts and washers (if original bolts are corroded or stretch)
- Why: bolts can be corroded or torque‑to‑yield; replacing gives reliable clamping and proper torque.
- Thread locker (medium strength, e.g., blue Loctite)
- Why: prevents bolts from vibrating loose when appropriate (check manual).
- Anti‑seize (for threads when reinstalling on rusty studs)
- Why: protects threads from future corrosion and eases later removal.

- Step-by-step process for external transmission mount (striped into clear action bullets)
- Park vehicle, chock wheels, disconnect the battery negative terminal for safety.
- Raise vehicle using the floor jack at manufacturer lift point and support with jack stands; verify stability before going under.
- Locate the transmission mount/torque strut: usually between the transmission bell housing or tail housing and the vehicle frame or engine crossmember.
- Place a jack or transmission jack under the transmission (use wood block to spread load) and raise slightly to take load off the mount—do not lift the vehicle off the stands.
- Spray penetrating oil on mount bolts and allow to soak.
- Use the correct socket, breaker bar, or impact wrench to remove the bolts that secure the mount to the transmission and frame. Keep removed bolts in a tray and note locations.
- Remove the old mount. Use a pry bar carefully if it’s tight; avoid bending metal brackets.
- Clean mounting surfaces with a wire brush and rag.
- Position the new mount. Start the bolts by hand to ensure threads engage properly.
- With the jack supporting the transmission, align holes and snug bolts by hand. Then use the torque wrench to tighten bolts to factory torque specs (consult service manual for exact numbers).
- Lower the jack slowly until the transmission rests on the new mount.
- Recheck all bolts for proper torque and ensure nothing is contacting drivetrain components.
- Lower vehicle off jack stands, reconnect battery, start engine and check for abnormal vibration or movement. Test drive at low speed and recheck bolt torque after initial drive.

- How to use a torque wrench (quick guide)
- Set the torque wrench to the factory-specified ft‑lb setting.
- Apply steady, even pressure until you hear/feel the click; stop immediately at the click.
- If you overshoot, loosen and retorque to spec—do not try to “back up” the click.
- Clean and store the torque wrench at its lowest setting when finished.

- When an internal “strut” is the issue (why this is different and what’s required)
- Internal strut/valve body support parts are inside the transmission and require dropping the pan, removing valve body, and often special tools, clean environment, and transmission knowledge.
- Why a beginner should not attempt: internal work requires precise reassembly, correct clearances, new seals/gaskets, and clean fluid handling; mistakes lead to transmission failure, slipping, or catastrophic damage.
- Parts likely required for an internal repair:
- OEM replacement strut/internal support (specific to 42RLE) or a valve body repair kit.
- Full gasket set, new pan gasket, filter, O‑rings, and possibly servo piston seals.
- New transmission fluid (specified ATF type for 42RLE).
- Tools required for internal work:
- Transmission jack, valve body holding tools, snap‑ring pliers, pick set, clean workspace, torque wrench, and factory manual.
- Recommendation: if you suspect an internal strut problem (odd shift patterns, internal noises, slipping, error codes), have the transmission inspected and repaired by a transmission shop or competent mechanic. Buy replacement parts only after identifying the exact failed component and part number using the vehicle VIN and a service manual.

- Final checks and follow-up
- After any mount replacement, inspect for leaks, loose bolts, or abnormal vibration.
- Re-torque bolts after the first few hundred miles (or as the service manual recommends).
- Keep a record of parts used and torque values.

- Quick recap (no extra chatter)
- If you mean the external transmission mount/torque strut: this is a beginner‑level job if you have a jack, stands, basic socket set, torque wrench and the replacement mount.
- If you mean an internal transmission strut: this is not a beginner job—requires transmission disassembly, specialty tools, and a rebuild kit; seek a professional.

- Useful last points (non‑negotiable safety reminders)
- Always use jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Use a torque wrench for final tightening and follow factory torque specs.
- If at any point bolts won’t loosen or parts are badly corroded, get professional help to avoid breaking studs or causing more damage.
rteeqp73

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