Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Jeep Automatic Transmission 42RLE gearbox repair manual download

Tools (minimum)
- Harmonic balancer (crank pulley) puller and installer kit (3‑arm puller + threaded installer/driver with appropriate shaft/adapter). OEM/OTC/Solar/AST brand kit recommended.
- Crankshaft pulley holding tool (engine-specific holding plate or crankshaft holding tool).
- 1/2" drive breaker bar and 3/4" (or factory) deep impact/socket to remove crank bolt, plus impact gun if available.
- Torque wrench capable up to ~300 ft·lb (0–300 ft·lb).
- Sockets/ratchets/extensions (common sizes 10mm–24mm), swivel if needed.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster), anti-seize, and medium/high‑strength threadlocker (per OEM).
- Pry bar (short), hammer, soft‑face mallet.
- Floor jack and jack stands (or lift), wheel chocks.
- Engine support or hoist if engine mounts need to be loosened.
- Shop rags, degreaser.
- Replacement parts (recommended): new harmonic balancer (pulley/damper), new crankshaft pulley bolt (many are torque‑to‑yield — replace), new woodruff key (if applicable), front crankshaft oil seal (inspect/replace), optional balancer hub if two‑piece design.

Safety / prep
- Work on a level surface, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support vehicle on jack stands or use a lift — do not rely on jack alone.
- If engine/transmission movement will be required, use an engine support or hoist; do not let engine hang from motor mounts.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep loose clothing and jewelry away.

Overview / notes specific to Jeep with 42RLE
- The harmonic balancer is on the engine crank, not the 42RLE gearbox. The 42RLE bellhousing/transmission must remain supported; you typically do not remove the transmission to change the balancer. Remove any interfering splash shields, fan shroud, accessory brackets, or grille components as needed to access the crank pulley.
- Always consult the factory service manual for exact torque specs and any model‑specific procedures. Replace the crank bolt and front seal as preventative items.

Step‑by‑step removal
1. Prepare and access
- Disconnect negative battery.
- Raise and support vehicle on stands for safe access to bottom/front of engine.
- Remove engine undertray/splash shields if present. Remove serpentine belt (release tensioner) and any accessory brackets or fan shroud obstructing the balancer.

2. Secure crank
- Use the crankshaft pulley holding tool to prevent the crank from rotating. If a holding tool for your engine is unavailable, the recommended safe method is to use an impact gun to remove the bolt; do not try to jam the engine (transmission in gear or pry bars against other components) — that risks damage.
- If using a breaker bar, ensure holding tool is engaged properly in the pulley or flywheel teeth and secured.

3. Remove crankshaft bolt
- Apply penetrating oil to the bolt if corroded; let soak.
- Break loose and remove crankshaft pulley bolt using appropriate socket and breaker bar or impact gun. Expect high torque; use an impact if not comfortable with breaker bar method.

4. Attach puller
- Clean the outer face of the balancer and ensure threaded puller bolts match the balancer bolt holes or use puller arms on the outer lip per tool instructions.
- Thread in the puller arms evenly and evenly tighten the center forcing screw so the puller bears false‑load on the balancer but does not yet pull it free.

5. Extract balancer
- Tighten center screw slowly and evenly. The balancer will press off the crank snout. Do not hammer the crank or use excessive crooked force; if stubborn, apply penetrating oil and work the screw incrementally.
- Once off, remove balancer and inspect woodruff key and keyway for wear. Replace key if damaged.

6. Inspect & replace sealing components
- Inspect front crank seal. Replace if leaking or anytime balancer is removed for best practice. Replace woodruff key if worn.
- Clean crank snout and keyway.

Step‑by‑step installation
1. Prepare new balancer
- Verify the new balancer matches old one (outer diameter, hub fit, keyway).
- Lightly coat the crank snout with clean engine oil (do not use heavy grease). If OEM calls for anti‑seize, follow factory guidance.

2. Use installer tool
- Use the installer adapter from the balancer kit that presses on the appropriate inner hub of the balancer — never drive the outer ring with a hammer.
- Thread the installer forcing bolt (or use the special nut/adapter per kit) to press the balancer squarely onto the crank until it seats fully on the crank shoulder. Installer must push on the crank hub, not on the outer rubber section of two‑piece balancers.
- Confirm the woodruff key is seated properly before fully installing.

3. Final torque
- Install new crankshaft bolt (recommended). Apply threadlocker per factory spec if required.
- Torque the crank bolt to factory specification using a torque wrench. If factory requires angle tightening (torque-to-yield), follow that procedure and use a new bolt. (Consult factory manual for exact ft·lb and/or angle — do not guess.)
- Reinstall serpentine belt, shields, and any removed components.

4. Final checks
- Start engine and listen for vibration/leaks. Re‑torque after short run per service manual if required.
- Dispose of old parts properly.

How the tools work (brief)
- Puller: three arms hook the balancer outer lip or bolt holes; a center threaded forcing screw presses against the crank snout to pull the balancer straight off the taper. Use even pressure and center alignment to avoid cocking.
- Installer: a threaded adapter or nut compresses the balancer onto the crankshaft shoulder, pressing it fully onto the pilot/taper. It ensures even seating without damaging the rubber or outer ring.
- Holding tool: fits into crank pulley or flywheel slots to prevent crank rotation while removing the main bolt. This allows safe torque application with a breaker bar.

Common pitfalls / what to avoid
- Don’t hammer the balancer on or off — hits can damage the rubber damper and the crank snout.
- Don’t use a puller that grips and stresses the rubber outer ring — use arms on the metal hub or factory pull points.
- Do not reuse torque‑to‑yield crank bolts. Using an old bolt risks loosening/failure.
- Failing to replace/inspect the woodruff key and front crank seal leads to misalignment, vibration, and leaks.
- Incorrect installer seating (not fully seated) causes wobble and premature seal failure.
- Over‑torquing or under‑torquing crank bolt leads to failure or balancer walk‑off. Follow factory torque/angle specs.
- Allowing engine to move unsupported while removing/torquing can twist mounts or damage sensors.
- Using a holding method that damages the flywheel or ring gear. Use purpose tools.

Replacement parts recommended
- Harmonic balancer (OEM or quality aftermarket match)
- Crankshaft pulley bolt (new, especially if torque‑to‑yield)
- Woodruff key (small inexpensive)
- Front crankshaft oil seal (recommended)
- Any damaged balancer hub if the balancer is a two‑piece design

Final note
- Exact crank bolt torque and any angle specs vary by engine. Use the factory service manual for your Jeep’s engine (3.7L or other) and follow their torque/angle numbers precisely.
rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions