- Safety first (read and follow these; do not skip)
- Wear safety glasses, chemical-resistant gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Work on a cool engine; hot coolant/ATF can scald. If recently driven, wait until cool.
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone. Use ramps or stands rated for your vehicle weight.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby and dispose of fluids legally.

- Essential tools (detailed description and how to use each)
- 3/8" and 1/2" ratchet with metric and SAE socket set (8–19 mm common): handle bolts/nuts. Use correct socket size, pull rather than jerk, and apply steady force. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts.
- Torque wrench (in-lb/ft-lb readable, e.g., 10–150 ft-lb): ensures bolts are tightened to spec (avoid over/under-torque). Set required torque, snug bolt, then apply slowly until wrench clicks.
- Combination wrench set (metric): for bolts where a socket won't fit. Use the correct size and pull, not push, to avoid slipping.
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers: remove hose clamps (screw-type) and plastic clips. Use the right tip size to avoid stripping.
- Pliers: slip-joint and long-nose for clamps, clips, and pulling small items.
- Hose clamp pliers or channel-lock pliers: remove spring-type radiator hose clamps safely (squeeze and slide).
- Drain pan (large, shallow): catch coolant and transmission fluid. Position under drain points/lines.
- Funnel and clean containers: for refilling coolant and ATF without spills.
- Transmission fluid catch container / small clear bottles: catch and quantify ATF removed from cooler lines.
- Radiator hose removal tool (optional, pry-style): helps break stubborn hoses free; use carefully to avoid damaging hose fittings.
- Trim removal tool (plastic): remove plastic fasteners/grille pieces without damaging trim.
- Jack and jack stands or vehicle ramps: lift and support vehicle. Use manufacturer jack points and rated stands.
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner and shop rags: clean mating surfaces, wipe spills.
- Shop gloves and paper towels / shop rags: cleanup and hand protection.
- Replacement hose clamps (worm-drive) and/or spring clamps: old clamps often fail when reused.
- Quick-disconnect transmission cooler line tool set (if your Jeep uses quick-connect fittings): releases the molded plastic/metal retaining collars on many Chrysler cooler lines. If present, these disconnect tools are cheap and save time.
- Small pick set: release electrical connectors and seals.
- Small flashlight or work light: see under the shroud and behind the radiator.
- Optional but strongly recommended: transmission fluid pump (for topping up without spills) and coolant pressure tester (checks for leaks after install).

- Why extra tools may be required
- Quick-disconnect line tools: many Jeep transmission cooler lines use spring collars that require a special U-shaped or ring tool to release; they prevent damage to plastic fittings.
- Torque wrench: critical for ensuring bolts are tightened correctly to prevent leaks or broken mounts.
- Radiator hose tool: hoses can seize on necks; tool reduces risk of damaging the radiator or heater hose fittings.
- Transmission fluid pump: eases refilling transmission and reduces spills.

- Parts and consumables you’ll likely need and why
- Replacement radiator (correct part for your Jeep and 42RLE-equipped model): required if the radiator is leaking, corroded, or its integrated transmission cooler has failed. Must have correct cooler ports and fittings for the 42RLE transmission.
- New upper and lower radiator hoses (recommended if old/soft/cracked): rubber hoses age; replacing while radiator is out is inexpensive preventive maintenance.
- New hose clamps (worm-drive or spring clamps): old clamps can deform and leak; replacement ensures reliable seal.
- Transmission fluid (ATF+4 for Chrysler 42RLE—use manufacturer-specified ATF): replacing the radiator will expose/empty parts of the transmission cooler circuit; flushing/refilling ATF is recommended.
- Transmission filter and pan gasket (recommended): if you lose significant ATF or if the cooler contaminated the fluid, change the filter/gasket to remove debris and contamination. 42RLE uses manufacturer-specific filter/pan—get the correct kit.
- Coolant (mix or premix recommended by Jeep): you will drain coolant; use correct type (usually HOAT or OAT per vehicle) and correct 50/50 mix unless premixed.
- New radiator cap (optional): cheap insurance for pressure integrity.
- O-rings/seals for cooler fittings (if provided with new radiator): replace to avoid leaks.
- Threadlocker (medium strength) or RTV for specific seals (as required by manual).

- Quick explanation of why ATF/filter replacement is recommended
- Replacing the radiator interrupts the transmission cooler circuit and allows air and contamination to enter. Old fluid may contain debris from a failing radiator or cooler. Replacing ATF and the filter restores proper lubrication/pressure and avoids transmission damage. If you drained only a small amount, you can sometimes top off, but a fluid/filter service is safer and inexpensive relative to potential transmission repair.

- Step-by-step procedure (high-level, beginner-friendly)
- Prep and safety
- Cool engine, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Chock rear wheels, raise front on ramps or jack and support on jack stands.
- Place drain pan under radiator drain petcock and under transmission cooler lines locations to catch ATF.
- Drain coolant
- Open radiator drain petcock (or remove lower hose clamp) and allow coolant to drain into pan. Remove radiator cap to speed draining.
- Capture and store coolant for disposal or reuse only if clean and new.
- Remove intake/grille/clearance as needed
- Remove plastic fasteners, grille pieces, or upper cover to get access to top radiator bolts and fan shroud. Use trim tool or screwdrivers carefully.
- Disconnect fan and electricals
- If electric fan shroud is present, disconnect electrical connectors and remove shroud (usually held by bolts or clips). Keep shroud attached to fan assembly and lift out together if needed. If fan is engine-driven, do not rotate engine; follow manual.
- Disconnect cooling hoses
- Use pliers/screwdriver to release clamps and slide hoses off. Use radiators tool to pry if stuck. Be ready for coolant drip.
- Disconnect transmission cooler lines
- Have drain pan ready. Use quick-disconnect tool or appropriate wrench to release lines at radiator fittings. Expect ATF to leak—catch it. Cap lines with clean plastic/plug to prevent contamination. Inspect line fittings and O-rings and replace if worn.
- Remove radiator mounting hardware
- Remove retaining bolts/brackets holding radiator in place (tops, lower mounts). Keep track of bolt locations and any spacers.
- Remove radiator
- Lift radiator straight up and out, taking care to avoid snagging hoses, lines, and fan shroud. Have an assistant if heavy.
- Inspect and replace parts as needed
- If old hoses are soft/cracked, replace now.
- Inspect fan shroud, electrical connectors, and cooling fan for damage.
- If transmission cooler lines or fittings are corroded, replace or service them.
- Install new radiator
- Transfer brackets, mounting rubber, and any fittings from old radiator to new if needed.
- Position radiator into place, secure upper and lower mounts hand-tight first, then torque to spec (or snug).
- Reconnect transmission cooler lines using new O-rings if provided. Ensure quick-connect snaps fully engaged.
- Reattach hoses with new clamps. Reinstall fan shroud and electrical connectors.
- Refill coolant and initial testing
- Reinstall radiator cap loosely; refill with correct coolant mix until full.
- Start engine and run at idle with heater on high; watch for air bubbling and top off coolant. Check for leaks.
- Once engine reaches operating temp, allow thermostat to open and keep topping up as air bleeds out.
- Refill transmission fluid and bleed air from cooler circuit
- If you replaced radiator and opened cooler lines, you should change/flush ATF and likely the filter. If doing a simple refill:
- With vehicle level and engine running at idle (and transmission in Park), add correct ATF through dipstick tube via funnel or pump until level reaches manufacturer’s hot operating range on dipstick.
- Cycle through gears (PRNDL) with brake engaged to circulate fluid, then recheck level after letting fluid settle at operating temperature. Add fluid only as needed; overfilling is harmful.
- Best practice: perform a transmission fluid and filter change (drain pan, remove pan bolts, replace filter, reinstall pan with new gasket, refill ATF to spec). Check service manual for capacity.
- Final checks
- Inspect all hose/clamp/fitting areas for leaks with engine at idle and under light revs.
- Lower vehicle carefully after confirming no leaks.
- Road test: drive gently, allow transmission to reach operating temp, recheck ATF level and coolant after 15–30 minutes of driving.
- Properly dispose of old coolant and ATF at a recycling center.

- Specific tool usage notes (how to use some problem tools)
- Quick-disconnect cooler line tools: slip tool around the line fitting, push onto the collar to release the internal retainer while pulling the male/female connection apart. Practice on an accessible line first.
- Torque wrench: hand-tighten bolt; set wrench to spec, then apply steady force until it clicks. Re-check critical bolts after initial warm-up.
- Hose clamp pliers: squeeze clamp to open spring clip, slide clamp down the hose, then release. For worm-drive clamps, use screwdriver or socket to tighten until snug.
- Transmission fluid pump: insert hose into dipstick tube and pump fluid slowly while engine idling to reach correct level.

- Common gotchas and tips
- If radiator has an integrated cooler, lines will drain ATF when disconnected—catch and plan to replace or flush fluid.
- Use only manufacturer-specified ATF (Chrysler ATF+4 for 42RLE). Wrong fluid causes shifting problems and damage.
- Do not overfill transmission; check level at operating temperature per dipstick procedure.
- Replace O-rings on cooler fittings — cheap and prevents leaks.
- Replace the transmission filter when you change fluid; it’s inexpensive insurance.
- Keep dirt out of open lines—cap them during work.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Store used coolant and ATF in sealed containers and take them to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used fluids.
- Clean spills promptly; ATF and coolant are toxic and slippery.

- Final summary (what a beginner must absolutely do)
- Get the correct replacement radiator that matches 42RLE cooler ports.
- Have proper tools: socket set, torque wrench, jack stands, drain pans, quick-disconnect tools for cooler lines, funnel, and transmission pump.
- Replace or at least change a significant portion of the transmission fluid and replace the transmission filter whenever the cooler circuit is opened.
- Follow safe jacking and fluid-handling practices; test for leaks and recheck fluid levels after warm-up and a short drive.

- Useful parts to buy before starting (check fitment for your Jeep year/model)
- OEM or quality aftermarket radiator listed for your Jeep with 42RLE cooler ports
- ATF+4 (correct quantity per vehicle)
- Transmission filter and pan gasket kit
- Radiator hoses and hose clamps
- O-rings/seals for cooler lines
- Radiator cap (optional)

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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Summary first: the “suspension spring seat” repair in a 42RLE valve body is a small but critical job — you are replacing the little cup/seat that supports a valve spring (and sometimes a check-ball spring) inside the valve body/separator plate area. If that seat cracks, pops out, or wears, the spring or valve can fall out of position and cause harsh shifts, stuck gears, slipping, or loss of a ratio. The repair is done by dropping the pan, removing the valve body, replacing the seat(s) and any worn springs or valves, cleaning everything, and reassembling to proper torque and fluid level. Below is a complete, beginner-friendly guide: each component described, why the repair is needed, how the system works, how to do it step-by-step, what can go wrong, and testing.

Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Work on a flat surface. Chock wheels. Use good quality jack stands — never rely on a jack alone. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Transmission fluid is hot and slippery. Let the vehicle cool if it’s been driven recently.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when working under the vehicle to avoid accidental cranking.
- Use a transmission jack if you must remove the transmission; for valve body work you usually only drop the pan (no full removal).

What we are repairing and why — components and theory
- Transmission pan: shallow sump that holds ATF (fluid). Removing it gives access to the filter and valve body.
- Filter (strainer): filters fluid going into valve body/pump.
- Valve body assembly: the control center — a maze of passages and valves that route fluid pressure to clutches and bands to make the transmission shift.
- Separator plate: thin steel plate between valve body halves that seals fluid passages; has many small holes and cavities.
- Valves: poppet/slide valves that move in bores in the valve body to open/close fluid passages.
- Valve springs: small springs that push valves back to rest. They sit on small seats or “spring seats” (sometimes plastic cups or machined metal depressions) to keep them centered and to keep the spring indexed.
- Spring seat (what you’re repairing): the little cup or perch that accepts the bottom of a valve spring and keeps it in the correct position relative to the valve bore. If it breaks, the spring can fall out or the valve can tilt and bind.
- Check balls and check-ball springs (where applicable): small balls that seal passages and small springs that hold them — may use seats too.

Analogy: think of the valve body like a piano action. Each key (valve) needs a spring and a little felt pad to keep it returning straight and quiet. If the pad is gone or broken, the key wobbles, sticks or won’t return — the same thing happens to a valve in a gearbox if its spring seat fails.

Why the repair is needed
- Symptoms: harsh or delayed shifts, limp mode, slipping, inconsistent gear engagement, noise from valve body area, fluid contamination, or codes related to shift solenoids or hydraulic circuits.
- Cause: over time plastic spring seats can crack, wear, or pop free (especially if the transmission has been overheated or contaminated). Metal seats can wear the bore or become deformed. Contamination (metal shavings) can score bores. A failed seat allows spring/valve misalignment, which makes the valve stick or not seal.

Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set and ratchet (1/4” and 3/8” drives), extensions.
- Torque wrench (low-range, 0–100 ft-lb).
- Screwdrivers, picks, small pliers.
- Seal pick or magnet for small parts.
- Clean lint-free rags, parts cleaner (non-residue).
- New transmission pan gasket (or RTV if applicable) and filter.
- New spring seat(s) — OEM or quality aftermarket, and new valve springs if necessary.
- Small container / parts tray to keep bolts in order, labeling tape/marker.
- Transmission fluid (type specified for 42RLE — Mopar ATF+4 is correct for most Jeep/Chrysler automatics; confirm your year).
- Safety glasses, gloves, drain pan.
- Factory service manual or a reputable torque/spec sheet for the 42RLE.

Preparatory checks
- Get the correct spring seats for the 42RLE — OEM part or exact match. The repair can be ruined by a wrong size seat.
- Print or have the valve body bolt pattern diagram handy so you can reinstall bolts in the same locations and torque groups.
- Work area: clean and well-lit, parts trays labeled.

Step-by-step procedure (beginner friendly)
1) Prepare vehicle
- Park on flat ground, chock rear wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Lift vehicle with jack and place securely on jack stands. Ensure stable.

2) Drain fluid & remove pan
- Place drain pan under transmission. Remove the lowest pan bolts first and loosen remaining bolts to allow fluid to drain slowly — some pans have no drain plug.
- Carefully remove the pan. Expect several quarts of fluid to spill. Set pan aside; you’ll clean it.
- Remove the filter (it usually pulls straight down). Note the orientation and retaining screws (if any).

3) Inspect fluid and pan
- Look for metal particles or burnt smell. Mild fine metallic dust is common; chunks or heavy metal indicate major damage.
- Remove magnet(s) in pan and clean them — record the amount of material found.

4) Access the valve body
- With the filter out and pan removed, you will see the valve body (often a casting bolted to the case).
- Some solenoids may be attached with small connectors — label and gently disconnect them if needed. Keep wiring labeled.
- Valve body bolts are in multiple lengths; loosen them in a criss-cross pattern gradually to release evenly (similar to cylinder head bolt removal). Keep bolts in order.

5) Remove the valve body carefully
- Lower the valve body a few inches — it may have a small strainer or passages attached. Some 42RLE valve bodies come off as a unit; others are two-piece.
- Be very careful: valves and springs may be under small preload from separator plate areas. If there are check balls, springs, and seats, these are small and can fall out. Support the valve body and slowly lift it free.
- Place the valve body on a clean, lint-free workspace, face down on a soft towel.

6) Locate the spring seat(s)
- On the exposed face (or separator plate) you’ll see small springs and cups. Identify the failed seat(s). Compare to the new parts.
- If the seat is loose, deformed, or missing, note its location and which valve/spring it supports.

7) Remove and replace seats & springs
- Use a small pick to lift out the spring, then the valve or check ball as needed. Keep parts in order and document orientation.
- Install the new seat in the bore. Seats usually press into a small recess — press gently with fingers or a plastic/soft punch. Don’t deform it. If it’s a metal seat, ensure it’s fully seated flat.
- Inspect the valve bore for scoring or wear. Light scoring might be cleaned; deep scoring or out-of-round bores require professional machine work or valve body replacement.
- Replace the spring if it’s flattened or corroded. Springs are inexpensive and worth replacing in pairs.
- Reinstall valve/ball and spring. The assembly should move freely with light spring tension and return to rest.

8) Clean & inspect separator plate and valve body
- Clean all passages with solvent and compressed air (blow away from you). Do not use shop rags that leave lint.
- Inspect mating surfaces for nicks or warpage. Replace separator plate if warped.
- Replace any worn check balls or guide pins. Clean solenoid connectors and gaskets.

9) Reassemble valve body
- Position valve body back onto transmission carefully, aligning valves to bores and not dropping springs or balls.
- Reinstall bolts finger-tight in the correct pattern, then torque in stages to manufacturer's spec. If you don’t have the exact spec, a modest torque is needed (don’t over-torque — head bolts for valve bodies are low torque). Use the factory manual for exact numbers.
- Reconnect any solenoids/connectors you removed.

10) Install new filter & pan
- Install new filter and new pan gasket or sealant as required by your gasket type. Clean pan and magnet, reinstall.
- Tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern to spec (pan bolts are low torque).

11) Refill fluid and initial checks
- Lower vehicle. Reconnect battery.
- Add 4–6 quarts to begin (exact fill is done at operating temperature). Use Mopar ATF+4 (or specific fluid for your vehicle). Start engine, cycle through PRNDL slowly, shift into each gear with brakes applied, watch for immediate leaks.
- With engine running and transmission warmed to normal operating temperature (monitor temp or drive gently until warm), check fluid level on dipstick — maintain level per the manual, typically between hot marks.
- Road test: ensure shifts are smooth, and there are no codes. Recheck fluid level and for leaks.

Inspection checks and measuring
- Valve movement: valves should move freely with light finger pressure and return smoothly.
- Bore condition: no deep scoring or pitting. If bores are damaged, valves can stick — this requires professional repair or valve body replacement.
- Springs: height and free length should match new specs; if the spring is weak, it won’t return valves reliably.
- Seats: must be fully seated and not tilt; a tilted seat leads to valve binding.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Losing small parts: check balls, springs, or shims can fall into the case. Use a parts tray and work carefully. If a part drops into the case, don’t start the engine — remove the valve body and retrieve it.
- Incorrect seat part: a wrong-size seat will let the spring sit off-center and cause valve bind. Always use OEM or exact match.
- Dirty assembly: contamination will cause sticking. Clean everything thoroughly and use lint-free rags.
- Over-torquing bolts: can crack the valve body or strip threads. Use proper torque.
- Misrouting connectors/hoses: label any electrical connectors; miswired solenoids cause wrong shift behavior.
- Not replacing filter/gasket: old filter lets debris re-enter; new gasket prevents leaks.
- Improper fluid type or level: causes overheating and poor shifting. Use correct fluid and level properly at temp.

Troubleshooting after repair
- If shifts are still harsh: recheck valve springs/seats and bores. Check solenoid function electrically. Scan for codes.
- If leakage persists: inspect pan gasket and mating surfaces, torque, and check for warped pan or bolts.
- If a valve still sticks intermittently: recheck for contamination and correct placement of any checkballs/springs.

Final tips and best practices
- Replace small parts in kits: when you replace one spring seat, consider replacing the commonly failed ones in that valve body section — saves repeated disassembly.
- Label everything and take photos as you go — they save time during reassembly.
- Keep the service manual (Chrysler/Jeep 42RLE manual) for bolt diagrams, torque specs, and exact part ID.
- If bores or valve body surfaces are severely damaged, replacement of the valve body or professional shop machining is often the economical and reliable choice.
- When in doubt about torque specs or complex internal damage, consult a transmission shop — incorrect assembly can cause major damage.

Quick checklist before you reassemble
- New seat(s) installed and seated flush.
- Springs and valves free-moving and oriented correctly.
- Filter replaced; pan and magnet cleaned.
- All connectors labeled and reconnected.
- Bolts tightened in pattern to spec.
- Fluid type correct; level checked at operating temp.
- No leaks; road test complete.

That covers the theory, the components, the careful step-by-step repair of spring seats in a 42RLE valve body, what to watch for, and how to test afterward. Follow the steps carefully and use the factory manual for torque specs and any model-year variations.
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