Purpose: restore correct hydraulic sealing and spool action in the 42RLE valve body bores (the "cylinder walls") so the transmission regains correct line pressure, shift timing and clutch engagement.

Theory (short, focused)
- The valve body contains spool valves that slide in precision bores (cylinder walls). Those spools route pressurised ATF to apply clutches/bands and regulate line pressure.
- Wear in the bores or on the spools increases clearance and creates internal leakage (cross‑leakage between circuits and bleed past regulator/shift valves). That reduces effective pressure at the clutches and changes timing/force of shifts → slipping, delayed or harsh shifts, loss of 2nd/3rd, low line pressure.
- Repair restores the intended spool-to-bore clearance and concentricity so spools shuttle cleanly and hydraulic circuits stay isolated. That restores correct pressures and shift control.

Ordered procedure (conceptual steps, with why each step fixes the fault)
1) Confirm hydraulic fault
- Do pressure/functional checks: static line pressure, dynamic while shifting, and symptom correlation.
- Why: distinguishes mechanical clutch wear vs hydraulic leakage; only proceed to valve‑body bore repair if pressures are low or uneven consistent with leakage.

2) Remove transmission pan and valve body
- Drain fluid, remove pan/filter, unbolt and remove valve body assembly.
- Why: exposes spools and bores for measurement and inspection.

3) Inspect and measure bores and spools
- Visually inspect for ovality, scoring, corrosion; measure bore diameter and spool OD at multiple positions and compare to OEM tolerances.
- Why: quantifies wear pattern and determines whether rework, sleeving, or full valve body replacement is required.

4) Decide repair method (replace valve body vs. bore repair/sleeving vs. reaming+oversize spools)
- Replace: least risk if parts available.
- Sleeve: press in hardened/bronze sleeve and ream to spec if bore is worn but housing material is sound.
- Oversize spools: fit larger-diameter spools where available; sometimes combined with lapping.
- Why: choice depends on extent of wear and cost; all aim to re-establish correct clearance and sealing.

5) Prepare bores for sleeve or repair
- If sleeving: machine bore to accept sleeve (turning/drilling to correct interference), press‑fit sleeve concentrically, then ream/hone to final bore diameter.
- If reaming for oversize spool: ream/hone to the precise oversize spec and install matching spool.
- Why: machining restores concentricity and creates a true, round guided surface for the spool; sleeve material is chosen for wear resistance and proper friction characteristics.

6) Re-establish spool surface and clearance
- Install new or reconditioned spools; finish‑lap or hone spool-to-bore if required to achieve correct clearance and surface finish. Check end float where applicable.
- Why: correct spool finish + clearance minimizes leakage and ensures intended valve response and damping.

7) Replace all soft parts and clean
- Replace filter, gaskets, seals, springs and any degraded components; thoroughly clean all passages and remove machining debris.
- Why: prevents contamination that will rapidly re-wear new surfaces; springs and seals affect valve performance.

8) Reassemble valve body and test on bench if possible
- Reinstall valve body, torque fasteners to spec, and bench-test circuits or do a hydraulic pressure test without vehicle load where you can measure regulated pressures and valve responses.
- Why: verifies repair before full reassembly and road testing; ensures leaks are solved and pressures reach spec.

9) Reinstall, refill and perform controlled road tests with pressure checks
- Refit pan, refill correct ATF type/quantity, run through temp/shift cycles, verify line pressures across gears and test under load.
- Why: final confirmation that hydraulic control and clutch engagement are restored under operating conditions.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise mapping)
- Worn bore → increased leakage → low/incorrect pressure. Repair (sleeve/ream+new spool) → restores bore geometry and spool fit → reduces leakage → restores line/regulator pressure.
- Out‑of‑round bore → erratic spool movement → inconsistent shift timing. Repair restores concentricity → consistent spool movement → predictable shift timing.
- Scored/corroded surfaces trap fluid or create binding. Refinish or replace spools/sleeves → smooth controlled movement and reliable sealing.

Practical notes (brief)
- Precision tolerances and concentricity matter: require appropriate machines (press, reamer/hone, micrometers). Poorly executed machining will fail quickly.
- Use OEM specs for clearances and pressures; sleeving vendors (e.g., specialized transmission parts suppliers) supply matched kits and instructions that keep tolerances correct.
- Always flush/purge debris after machining; contamination causes re-failure.

End.
rteeqp73

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Short version first: the part people often call the “distributor” in an automatic is the hydraulic/valve body area that routes ATF to clutches and servos. On a Jeep with the 42RLE gearbox you’re dealing with a hydraulic + electronic control system. If the valve body/distributor is sticking, worn, or contaminated the trans will shift harshly, slip, hang in a gear or not work at all. Below I’ll explain what every major component is, how the system works, why you’d need to repair the valve-body/distributor area, how to do the job (step-by-step), and what can go wrong. I’ll use analogies to make things clear.

1) Big-picture function and analogy
- Think of the transmission as a city: the planetary gearsets are the power plants that make different gear ratios; clutches and bands are the gates that connect/disconnect parts of the plant; the valve body (the “distributor”) is the traffic-control center that routes hydraulic pressure (the traffic) to the right gates so the right gear is engaged at the right time. The torque converter is the coupling between the engine and that city — a fluid clutch that multiplies torque and allows the car to idle without stalling.

2) Main components (what they are, where they live, what they do)
- Torque converter
- Where: bolted to the flexplate at the front of the trans.
- What it does: transfers engine power into the transmission fluid and to the input shaft; contains pump, turbine, stator; allows slippage at idle and torque multiplication.
- Failure signs: shudder, slipping, no drive.

- Front pump / pump drive
- Where: front of the transmission case driven by the torque converter or input shaft.
- What it does: makes hydraulic pressure (creates the fluid “traffic”).
- Failure: low pressure -> harsh shifts or no engagement; whining noises.

- Input shaft / clutch hub / planetary gearset
- Where: center of the transmission.
- What it does: transmits power into planetary gearsets (sun/planet/ring) that produce gear ratios.
- Failure: noise, inability to transfer power.

- Planetary gearsets (sun, planet carrier, ring)
- Function: provide gear ratios when combined with clutches/bands.
- Analogy: different gearbox “paths” that open/close to change speed.

- Friction clutches and steel plates
- Where: stacked inside drum assemblies.
- What they do: lock elements of the planetary sets together; engage/disengage to select gears.
- Failure: slipping, burned ATF, poor engagement.

- Bands and servos
- Bands wrap drums and are held by servos; when applied they hold a drum stationary.
- Failure: worn bands, broken servo return springs -> slipping, poor shift.

- Valve body (the “distributor”)
- Where: bolted to the bottom of the case, under the pan (inside the transmission case).
- What it is: a maze of passages, valves (spools), springs, check balls, and in modern units, solenoids. It routes pressurized ATF to the correct clutch packs and servos, controlled either mechanically (valve spools) or electrically (solenoids from the TCM).
- Key sub-parts:
- Separator plate: thin steel plate between valve body and case that seals passages.
- Spool valves / shift valves: slide inside bores; when moved they open/close pathways and change which clutch gets pressure.
- Pressure regulator/relief valve: sets system line pressure.
- Check balls: small hardened balls that seat to route or block passages.
- Springs: return or bias valves.
- Solenoids (shift/pressure-control): electrical actuators controlled by TCM to command shifts and line pressure.
- Bolt pattern and passages: many small bolts hold it; some bolts are different lengths—important to note.
- Symptoms of valve body issues: harsh shifts, delayed shifts, slipping, stuck in gear, neutral at idle, limp-home mode, codes related to solenoids or pressure.

- Transmission pan and filter
- Where: bottom of the transmission.
- What they do: hold fluid, trap debris; filter removes contamination for the valve body/pump.
- Failure: clogged filter or contaminated fluid -> poor hydraulic control.

- Transmission Control Module (TCM) and wiring
- Where: on vehicle (not inside the trans).
- What it does: reads sensors and opens/closes solenoids for shifts and pressure.
- Failure: bad sensor/signals -> wrong shift commands, but valves still mechanically move if hydraulics allow.

3) Why this repair (valve body/distributor service) is needed — theory
- The valve body directs hydraulic fluid under pressure. If spool valves stick due to varnish, debris, or wear, the fluid goes to the wrong clutch or is blocked. That causes improper engagement timing or insufficient pressure to a clutch pack -> slipping, harsh or missed shifts.
- Over time the ATF breaks down, deposits form, check balls get embedded in grime, and spool bores wear. Solenoids can fail electrically. A clogged filter or low/dirty fluid reduces pressure and accelerates wear.
- Replacing or rebuilding the valve body/distributor restores correct hydraulic routing, restores line pressure control, and eliminates mechanical binding that causes poor shift quality.

4) Symptoms that indicate valve-body/distributor work is needed
- Harsh or clunky upshifts/downshifts.
- Delayed engagement from park/reverse/drive.
- Transmission stuck in one gear or neutral-like behavior.
- Slipping under load with correct TCC operation otherwise.
- Transmission fault codes for shift solenoids or pressure control solenoids.
- Contaminated/burnt-smelling fluid and metal in pan.

5) Tools, parts, and safety essentials
- Tools: metric socket set, torque wrench, ratchets, extensions, pick set, clean rags, brake-cleaner-grade solvent, small magnet, funnel, drain pan, jack + stands or lift, screwdrivers, hex/allen as needed, pliers, service manual for torque specs and bolt lengths.
- Parts: new valve body/rebuild kit or new solenoids, new pan gasket (or pan with built-in magnet), new filter, correct ATF (manufacturer-specified), replacement check balls or springs if included in kit.
- Safety: disconnect battery, use jack stands (never rely on a jack), trans fluid will be hot if recently run—let cool. Keep chips/bits out of valve body; do not let parts fall into case. Label/photograph bolt locations.

6) Step-by-step: servicing or replacing the valve body (distributor)
Note: this is a general procedure. Exact bolt counts, bolt lengths, and torques come from the factory service manual for your model year 42RLE. Follow the manual for specs.

Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Warm the engine briefly to get fluid thin, then shut off and let it cool slightly (warm, not scalding).
- Raise vehicle and support on stands.

Drain and remove pan
- Place drain pan under transmission.
- Loosen pan bolts a few turns to let fluid drain from one corner (or remove entire pan if you prefer).
- Remove pan fully, set aside and clean. Note: inspect magnets for metal—document large metal flakes.
- Remove filter: it’s usually a plastic filter held by a few bolts; allow remaining fluid to drain.

Access valve body
- With filter removed and fluid drained, the valve body is exposed. Photograph orientation and connector routing.
- Disconnect electrical connectors to solenoids carefully (push tabs).
- Support valve body with one hand as you remove mounting bolts. Valve body must not hang by the harness.

Unbolt valve body
- Remove bolts in a cross pattern; keep track of bolt lengths and their locations. Many bolts are different lengths—mark or bag them.
- Carefully lower valve body. Expect some residual fluid to leak—keep drain pan under.
- Inspect the separator plate between valve body and transmission case. Some plates are two-piece/with check balls; some check balls sit in the case. Note ball locations (mark or photograph).

Inspect and clean / rebuild
- If replacing the entire valve body/distributor assembly: swap the new (or reman) valve body in reverse order.
- If rebuilding: work on a clean bench. Use solvent to clean spools, bores, springs, and check balls. Use compressed air (blow through passages) and a lint-free cloth. Replace any sealer, O-rings or worn parts provided in rebuild kit. Replace solenoids if the diagnosis indicated electrical issues.
- Inspect check balls and their seats for wear. Replace if required. Make sure separator plate is clean and flat.

Reinstallation
- Position separator plate correctly on the case (if it was removed). Some plates use alignment dowels.
- Carefully place valve body, aligning it so no check balls or springs are displaced.
- Install bolts finger-tight in the original locations. Torque to factory specs in the specified sequence.
- Reconnect electrical connectors, routing harness the same way you found it. Ensure there is no pinched wiring.

Filter and pan
- Install new filter and torque its bolts to spec.
- Clean pan mating surface and install new gasket (or crush gasket per design). Reinstall pan bolts in sequence and torque to spec. Tighten in steps to prevent warpage.

Refill and initial setup
- Lower vehicle.
- Reconnect battery.
- Refill with correct type and amount of ATF to the specified level (fill until near dipstick cold level or per factory procedure). Some vehicles require fluid level check at operating temp and engine running; consult manual for the correct fill and check procedure.
- Cycle through gears with brake applied (PRNDL) to let fluid circulate and feed clutches.
- Clear transmission codes with a scanner if you have one.
- Check for leaks around the pan and connectors.

Test drive and verify
- Drive gently at first, check shifts in all ranges. Let the trans go through the shift map several times to condition clutches.
- Recheck fluid level after a short drive and again after operating temp is reached, adjusting as necessary.

7) What can go wrong during the repair
- Dropping check balls/springs into the case (lose them) or installing them in wrong positions — causes immediate hydraulic failure.
- Mixing bolt lengths or torquing incorrectly — can warp the valve body or cause leaks, or worse, broken bolts in the case.
- Letting valve body hang by wiring — can break connectors.
- Contamination introduced into valve body bore — causes sticking again.
- Incorrect fluid type or level — shifts poor, clutch overheating.
- Not replacing the filter — leaves contaminants that re-clog valves.
- Improper reassembly leading to internal leaks -> no engagement or slipping.
- Replacing only solenoids but leaving varnished spools — symptoms may return; sometimes full cleaning/rebuild is required.
- Electrical issues (bad TCM, wiring) mistaken for hydraulic problems — leads to wasted parts if not diagnosed properly.

8) Common failure modes for 42RLE and cause/effect
- Sticking shift valve -> gear hang/delayed shift or harsh shift.
- Worn separator plate -> pressure bleed across circuits -> slipping.
- Weak pressure regulator spring -> low line pressure -> slipping and burnt clutches.
- Failed solenoid -> erratic or stuck shift, limp-home mode.
- Contaminated fluid -> abrasive wear on spool/bore -> progressive worsening.

9) Diagnostics tips (quick)
- Check fluid color/smell: dark/burnt smells means clutch burnout.
- Scan for codes: P0750–P0770 series often point to shift solenoids / valve body issues.
- Monitor line pressure (pressure gauge) if available: low or erratic pressure points to pump/regulator or valve body issues.
- Backflush/transmission filter change and fluid change can sometimes improve function if varnish is minimal.

10) Final practical tips (as a beginner mechanic)
- Take pictures at every step. Label bolts by location/length.
- Work clean and organized — a single dirt particle can cause a stuck spool.
- If unsure about torque or bolt lengths, get the factory manual or a reputable shop manual for your model/year 42RLE. These have the exact torque specs and bolt length maps.
- If you replace the valve body with a reman unit, compare the old and new side-by-side to confirm solenoids, connector positions, and bolt hole alignment.
- If symptoms are electrical (codes for communication or implausible sensor readings), check wiring and connectors before tearing into the valve body.

Summary: The valve body (“distributor”) is the hydraulic traffic manager of your 42RLE. Cleaning, rebuilding, or replacing it is often what’s needed when shifts are wrong, but you must keep everything clean, note bolt locations and check balls, and follow the factory reassembly/tightening and fluid-level procedures. If you follow careful disassembly, cleaning/inspection, and correct reassembly with the right fluid and filter, you’ll typically restore shifting function.
rteeqp73