- Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface; engage parking brake and chock opposite wheels.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use quality jack stands rated above the vehicle weight.

- Overview of the job
- Remove the wheel and brake components, separate the hub/axle nut, extract the hub or pressed bearing from the knuckle, press or replace the bearing (or swap the entire hub assembly), install new seals, reassemble, and torque fasteners to spec.
- You will either replace a pressed bearing and race inside the steering knuckle or replace a complete hub assembly that contains the bearing pre-assembled. Hub assemblies are easier for beginners; pressed bearings require a press or puller.

- Tools required and how to use them (detailed)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Purpose: lift the vehicle to remove the wheel.
- How to use: position under the manufacturer-specified jacking point, pump to lift. Lower with control valve. Never use as sole support.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Purpose: safely support the vehicle after lifting.
- How to use: place stands under reinforced lift points, lower the vehicle onto stands slowly so weight sits squarely on them.
- Wheel chocks
- Purpose: prevent the vehicle from rolling.
- How to use: place behind/forward of wheels that remain on the ground.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with correct socket for lug nuts
- Purpose: loosen/tighten wheel lug nuts.
- How to use: break lug nuts loose while car is on the ground (prevents wheel spinning). Use long breaker bar for leverage if tight.
- Torque wrench (click-style; appropriate range)
- Purpose: tighten nuts/bolts to specified torque.
- How to use: set required torque on wrench, tighten until it clicks. Use for axle nut, lug nuts, caliper bracket, etc.
- Socket set (metric and/or SAE as needed for your Jeep)
- Purpose: remove caliper bolts, hub bolts, axle nut (if applicable), etc.
- How to use: pick correct size socket, use with ratchet or breaker bar for loosening/tightening. Use impact sockets with impact tools only.
- Ratchet and extensions
- Purpose: reach recessed bolts.
- How to use: attach socket, use ratchet to turn; use extensions to clear obstructions.
- Breaker bar (long bar)
- Purpose: apply high leverage to stubborn nuts (axle nut).
- How to use: use with correct socket; steady force, avoid impact to avoid rounding fasteners.
- Impact wrench (optional but very helpful)
- Purpose: quickly remove stubborn nuts and bolts (axle nut, wheel studs).
- Why optional: not required, but saves effort; do not rely on it for final torque — use torque wrench for final tightening.
- Hammer and punch (ball-peen hammer and drift punch)
- Purpose: tap out stuck circlips, hub or bearing race if lightly seized; tap dust cap.
- How to use: strike with controlled blows; protect surfaces; do not destroy threads.
- Punch / drift and cold chisel
- Purpose: remove cotter pin, stubborn parts.
- How to use: align and tap with hammer to push pin out.
- Pry bar
- Purpose: separate components like hub from knuckle or to lever caliper aside.
- How to use: use controlled leverage; avoid bending or damaging parts.
- Snap-ring (circlip) pliers (internal/external depending on clip)
- Purpose: remove/install snap rings that retain bearing/races.
- How to use: fit tips into circlip holes, squeeze to collapse/expand ring and remove/fit. Wear eye protection — rings can spring out.
- Bearing/hub puller or slide hammer with hub puller attachment
- Purpose: pull hub or bearing out of the knuckle if pressed in and stuck.
- Why required: pressed bearings/hubs are often rusted in; puller applies axial force without hammering the knuckle.
- How to use: attach to hub/hub flange using studs/bolts, tighten center forcing screw to pull hub out. Follow tool instructions.
- Hydraulic shop press (or access to one) OR bearing driver set and mallet + large socket as improvised driver
- Purpose: press bearings and races in/out of the hub/knuckle.
- Why required: bearings are interference-fit and need even axial force to remove/install without damage.
- How to use: center bearing on support, use press ram to push bearing through race; for installation use correct-sized driver to press on only the bearing outer race (or inner race depending on application) to avoid damaging rolling elements.
- Alternative: many beginners avoid this by buying a full replacement hub assembly that comes with the bearing pre-installed, eliminating need for press.
- Torque angle gauge (if specified by factory)
- Purpose: applied where final torque requires angle-turn specification.
- How to use: follow instructions in manual if needed.
- Pick set and seal driver or large socket of proper diameter
- Purpose: remove and install axle seals without damaging sealing surfaces.
- How to use: gently pry old seal out with pick, drive new seal squarely in using driver/socket sized to outer diameter.
- Wire brush and brake cleaner
- Purpose: clean mating surfaces and remove rust/grease.
- How to use: brush rust off, spray brake cleaner and let dry.
- Anti-seize compound and high-temp wheel bearing grease (if rebuilding)
- Purpose: prevent future seizure; grease bearings if serviceable.
- How to use: apply anti-seize to hub contact surfaces and threads; pack bearings with grease if using serviceable bearings per instructions.
- Snap ring pliers (again) and feeler gauges or dial indicator (for end play check)
- Purpose: ensure proper pre-load and play; dial indicator measures hub runout/axial play.
- How to use: use dial indicator against hub and rotate to check runout; measure axial freeplay by pushing/pulling hub.
- Safety stand or axle support (optional)
- Purpose: support control arm/knuckle when hub/axle is removed.
- How to use: place under control arm to maintain geometry and prevent stress on CV joints/ball joints.
- Brake caliper hanger or wire/zip ties
- Purpose: hang caliper out of the way without stressing the brake hose.
- How to use: hang caliper from suspension with hanger after removal.

- Extra tools that may be required and why
- Bearing/hub puller or slide hammer
- Reason: to extract a seized hub or pressed bearing without damaging knuckle.
- Hydraulic press or professional shop press
- Reason: necessary to press bearings in/out accurately and safely. Shops often have these — consider buying hub assemblies instead if you don’t have access.
- Heat source (propane torch)
- Reason: applying controlled heat to the knuckle/hub can break rust bond and ease removal. Use with caution around seals/ABS wiring/paint.
- Impact wrench
- Reason: speeds removal of axle nut and stubborn bolts; not mandatory but very useful.
- Local machine shop or shop service
- Reason: if you lack a press or puller, many shops will press bearings in/out for a small fee.

- Parts that commonly must be replaced and why
- Wheel bearing(s)
- Why: worn bearings cause humming/growling noise, play in the wheel, uneven tire wear, ABS faults, and excessive heat. Replace when noisy, loose, or leaking grease.
- Options: replace just the bearing and races (serviceable bearing) or replace the entire wheel hub assembly (plug-and-play).
- Wheel hub assembly (preferred for beginners)
- Why: contains the hub and bearing pre-pressed. Eliminates need for press, reduces labor and risk of improper installation. Replace if bearing is integral to hub.
- Axle nut (hub nut) and washer
- Why: usually torque-to-yield or single-use; threads can be damaged or nut may be specified as replacement. Replace if recommended by manual.
- Outer seal (axle or hub seal)
- Why: often disturbed during bearing removal; a new seal prevents grease leakage and contamination.
- Wheel studs (if damaged)
- Why: studs can be corroded, stretched or broken during removal — replace any damaged studs.
- ABS sensor or tone ring (if damaged)
- Why: rough removal or corrosion may damage sensor or ring; ABS faults may require sensor/harness replacement.
- Cotter pins / dust caps / retaining clips
- Why: these are inexpensive single-use parts—replace for safety and sealing.
- Brake components (pads/rotor) — inspect and replace if worn or damaged during work
- Why: you already remove them; if pads/rotors are near limit, replace while accessible.

- How to decide whether to replace bearing only or entire hub assembly
- Replace the entire hub assembly if:
- You are a beginner without a press or hub puller.
- The bearing is integral and not serviceable.
- You want the fastest, lowest-risk repair.
- Replace bearing only if:
- The hub (rotor/hub mating surfaces and studs) is in good condition and you have the tools to press bearings and races correctly.

- Step-by-step procedure (use a hub-assembly replacement approach unless you have a press)
- Prepare vehicle: chock, loosen lug nuts slightly, lift with jack, secure on jack stands.
- Remove wheel: finish removing lug nuts and wheel.
- Remove brake caliper and bracket: unbolt caliper, hang with wire/zip tie; remove brake pads and caliper bracket if interfering with hub removal.
- Remove rotor: if stuck, tap gently on face with hammer or use penetrating oil and back-and-forth gentle heat.
- Disconnect ABS sensor/wiring and any speed sensor brackets attached to hub.
- Remove axle nut/retaining fastener: use breaker bar or impact to remove the center axle nut; be ready for significant torque. If there’s a cotter pin or retainer, remove first.
- Unbolt hub assembly from knuckle (if hub assembly replacement): remove the hub-to-knuckle bolts. Use penetrating oil and breaker bar; an impact helps.
- Extract old hub assembly: use puller/slide hammer if it’s seized. Apply even force; do not hammer knuckle.
- Clean mating surfaces: wire brush and brake cleaner to remove rust and debris.
- Install new hub assembly: align and slide into knuckle, torque hub bolts to factory spec using torque wrench.
- Reinstall axle nut: if single-use nut specified, install new one and torque to factory spec. If required, perform final torque/angle procedure as manual states. Install cotter pin if applicable.
- Reconnect ABS sensor and wiring.
- Reinstall rotor, caliper bracket, pads, and caliper; torque caliper bolts to spec.
- Reinstall wheel, hand-thread lug nuts, lower vehicle to ground, torque lug nuts to factory spec in a star pattern.
- Test drive carefully and re-check torques and for noises or ABS warnings.

- If you must press bearings (procedure highlights for experienced or shop use)
- Remove hub from knuckle.
- Remove snap ring (if present), press out inner/outer bearing and races using a press and correct adapters. Use drivers that press on only the ring specified to avoid damaging rollers.
- Clean knuckle bore and install new races with a proper race driver, then press new bearing into place.
- Install new seal and reassemble hub, checking for correct endplay/preload per service manual.
- If preload requires shimming or specific torque/angle, follow the factory procedure exactly.

- Inspection checks and measurements
- Check for radial play before starting: grab wheel at top and bottom and rock; noticeable movement indicates bearing play.
- Check for noise by spinning hub (if removed from vehicle) or listening during test drive.
- After installation, verify no excessive axial play with dial indicator or specified check method.
- Inspect splines on axle and bearing surfaces for wear or damage.

- Typical pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Relying on a jack only — always use jack stands.
- Using the wrong driver when pressing bearings — will damage the bearing.
- Not replacing seals — allows contamination and early failure.
- Undertorquing or overtightening axle nut — causes bearing damage or wheel separation. Always use torque wrench and follow factory spec.
- Not supporting suspension — stresses ball joints or CV joints.

- Parts purchase guidance
- OEM vs aftermarket: OEM is pricier but guaranteed fit; high-quality aftermarket hub assemblies are widely available and often adequate.
- Buy hub assembly if you lack press/puller. Confirm fit by VIN or exact model/year/product code.
- Replace cotter pins, axle nut (if single-use), and seals at the same time.
- If ABS is present, confirm new hub has tone ring and sensor compatibility.

- Final checks and break-in
- After reassembly, torque all fasteners to spec and install any cotter pins/dust caps.
- Test drive gently for the first few miles, listening for noise and checking that ABS light is off and steering feels normal.
- Re-check axle nut and wheel lug torque after a short drive (per manual interval).

- When to get professional help
- No hydraulic press or hub puller and you plan to service a pressed bearing — use a shop or buy a hub assembly.
- If you encounter seized bolts or unusual damage, consult a professional to avoid breaking knuckles or studs.

- Quick symptom-to-part guide
- Humming/rumbling at speed or vibration: wheel bearing likely — consider hub assembly or bearing replacement.
- Wheel play or looseness: bearing worn — replace.
- Grease leaking from seal or visible contamination: replace seal and bearing (or entire hub).
- ABS fault codes coincident with noise: inspect ABS sensor/tone ring and hub assembly.

- Final reminder
- Consult the factory workshop manual for exact torque specs, service limits, and sequence for your specific Jeep Commer XH/XK. If you do not have the required tools (press, puller) buy the hub assembly or have a shop press the bearing to avoid damage.
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Tools & supplies
- Metric + SAE socket set (common: 8, 10, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19 mm). Starter bolts are often 13–15 mm on Jeeps.
- 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets, 6"–12" extensions, universal joint/swivel.
- Breaker bar (for stuck bolts).
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft·lb).
- Combination wrenches (same sizes as sockets).
- Screwdrivers (flat, Phillips).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40).
- Wire brush / emery cloth.
- Battery terminal puller or pliers.
- Jack, quality jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Safety glasses, mechanic gloves.
- Dielectric grease.
- Anti‑seize or light thread locker (per shop manual).
- Replacement starter (and solenoid if not included), replacement mounting bolts if rusted/damaged, replacement wiring or ring terminal(s) if corroded.
- Optional: bench tester or jumper leads to bench‑test the starter.

Safety first (must-do)
1. Work on a cool engine. Hot components cause burns.
2. Disconnect battery negative terminal first and keep it disconnected during the job. Remove positive if you need more isolation.
3. Chock wheels, raise vehicle on a jack and secure on jack stands — do NOT rely on the jack alone.
4. Wear eye protection and gloves. Avoid metal tools touching battery positive to ground (short risk).
5. Support any components you unbolt (intake, heat shields, etc.) so they can’t fall and pinch hands.

Step‑by‑step procedure (typical Jeep XH/XK starter removal & replacement)
Note: exact location and fastener sizes vary by engine/transmission. Use these steps and adapt to actual layout.

Preparation
1. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels.
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal and isolate positive if removing it. Wait a minute for capacitors to discharge.
3. Remove engine covers/airbox if they obstruct starter access. Label vacuum lines/sensors before removing any hoses.

Access starter
4. Locate starter — typically mounted to the bellhousing at the back/lower side of the engine. You may access from under the vehicle or through wheel well/engine bay.
5. If required, raise vehicle and place on jack stands. Remove splash shield/heat shield for better access.

Electrical disconnection
6. Clean around the starter terminals so dirt doesn’t fall into connectors.
7. Remove the nut/bolt that holds the heavy B+ cable to the starter solenoid (large stud). It’s often 13–17 mm. Pull the cable off and tuck it aside.
8. Remove the small control wire (ignition switch feed) from the solenoid — typically a 8–10 mm nut or push connector. Label wires or take a photo.

Unbolt & remove starter
9. Apply penetrating oil to starter mounting bolts if rusted; let soak 10–15 minutes.
10. Support the starter with one hand or a jack. Remove mounting bolts (usually 2 or 3). Use an extension and universal joint to reach awkward bolts. A breaker bar may be needed.
11. Carefully lower the starter out of the bellhousing. It’s heavy; avoid dropping it or scraping the ring gear.

Inspection
12. Inspect starter mating surface, bellhousing, and ring gear teeth for damage. Inspect clutch/flywheel teeth for chipping or missing teeth — if present, inspect further/replacement required.
13. Check starter mounting bolt threads in block and bolt condition. Replace bolts if stretched or damaged.

Prep & bench test
14. If you have a replacement starter, compare it to the old one — mounting points, solenoid terminal locations. Transfer heat shield/brackets if needed.
15. Bench‑test old or new starter before installation: clamp starter body to a grounded metal surface, briefly connect battery + to solenoid B+ and a jumper to solenoid S; starter should spin and engage. Use caution and short bursts only.

Install new starter
16. Clean mating surfaces with wire brush; remove oil/grease.
17. Apply light anti‑seize to starter bolt threads (or follow manual). Position starter into bellhousing; align carefully so ring gear teeth mesh correctly.
18. Install mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross‑threading. Finger‑tighten all bolts then torque to spec. Typical torque: starter mounting bolts 30–50 ft·lb (40–68 N·m). Verify exact spec in factory manual.
19. Reconnect the heavy B+ cable to the large solenoid stud and tighten nut securely (typical 10–20 ft·lb). Reconnect small control wire and tighten (about 5–10 ft·lb). Use clean ring terminals if original are corroded.
20. Apply a thin smear of dielectric grease on the small electrical connector to prevent corrosion.

Reassembly & test
21. Reinstall any heat shields, splash shields, intake components removed earlier.
22. Reconnect battery negative terminal.
23. Start engine and listen: motor should crank cleanly without grinding, whining, or unusual noises. If grinding occurs, stop — ring gear/ flywheel/starter alignment issue.
24. Check for battery terminal tightness and for any smoke or electrical smells. Test accessory function.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not disconnecting battery: causes shorts and sparks. Always disconnect negative first.
- Losing or mixing wiring: label wires or photograph before removal.
- Cross‑threading starter bolts: start bolts by hand; don’t force.
- Under/over‑torquing bolts: use a torque wrench and correct spec. Over‑torquing can strip threads; under‑torquing can cause misalignment.
- Forgetting to clean mating surfaces: leads to poor seating and vibration.
- Reusing corroded terminals: replace ring terminals or boots to ensure good electrical contact.
- Reinstalling wrong wire on solenoid terminals: small S terminal goes to ignition wire; large B+ goes to battery cable. Wrong wiring can damage electronics.
- Testing starter with engine partly assembled or with tools in place: remove tools and ensure safe clearance.
- Ignoring battery condition: weak battery causes starter failures; test battery and charging system if slow crank persists.

Replacement parts typically required
- New starter assembly (most include solenoid); specify engine/transmission fitment.
- Mounting bolts (if rusted or stretched).
- New ring terminal(s) or insulated boot for the solenoid control.
- Possibly heat shield/gasket or starter isolator if present and damaged.
- Consider replacing starter relay/solenoid if intermittency persists even with new starter.

Tool usage notes
- Ratchet/extensions/universal: access tight bolt angles. Use universal joint to reach bolts behind obstructions.
- Breaker bar: free seized bolts—apply penetrating oil beforehand.
- Torque wrench: final torque on mounting bolts and electrical nuts — prevents loose starter or stripped threads.
- Wire brush: clean mating surfaces and electrical contacts.
- Bench tester/jumper leads: safe, brief tests to confirm starter operation before install — clamp body to ground, momentarily connect + battery to B+ and S to engage.

Final check
- After first start, recheck all mounting nuts and electrical connectors for tightness.
- Road test and listen for starter/gear noise during several cold starts.
- If noise on engagement continues, inspect flywheel teeth and starter pinion engagement depth/solenoid operation.

Done.
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