Tools & PPE (minimum)
- Full metric socket/ratchet set (8–24 mm), deep sockets, extension bars
- Breaker bar (3/8" & 1/2")
- Torque wrench (range to ~250 Nm)
- Strut coil spring compressor (proper two‑side compressor rated for automotive coil springs)
- Floor jack + heavy-duty jack stands (rated for vehicle)
- Wheel chocks
- Pry bar, large screwdriver
- Ball‑joint/pickle fork or tie‑rod separator
- Hammer, punch, cold chisel
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar), wire brush
- Hex/Allen or Torx bit set (for holding strut rod if required)
- Punch or drift to align holes
- Wire ties or zip ties (to hold brake caliper)
- Safety glasses, gloves, face shield when compressing springs
- Anti‑seize / thread locker (as required)
- Replacement parts (see list below)

Required replacement parts (recommended)
- New strut cartridge or complete replacement strut assembly (OE or quality aftermarket)
- Strut top mount and bearing (always replace)
- Dust boot and bump stop (replace if degraded)
- Lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts (replace if corroded; torque-to-yield types must be new)
- Swaybar endlink hardware if worn
- New cotter pins, washers as needed
- Wheel alignment after installation

Safety precautions (non‑negotiable)
- Work on a flat level surface. Chock wheels left on the ground.
- Use jack stands under rated jacking points — never rely on the hydraulic jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Use a face shield when compressing or releasing coil springs.
- Use only a purpose‑built spring compressor; never use pipe clamps, chains, or improvised tools.
- Compress springs slowly and evenly; stand clear of the spring path.
- Support the knuckle/control arm before removing strut fasteners to prevent sudden collapse.
- If bolts are heavily corroded, apply penetrating oil and heat carefully — avoid damaging surrounding components.

Step‑by‑step procedure (MacPherson strut removal & replacement)
1) Preparation
- Park car in gear (or Park) and set parking brake. Chock rear wheels.
- Loosen lug nuts slightly while car is on ground.

2) Lift & secure
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer jacking point.
- Install jack stands under frame/crossmember; lower vehicle onto stands.
- Remove wheel.

3) Access & prep components
- Inspect top strut tower inside engine bay/under scuttle. Remove any covers to access top nuts.
- Remove brake caliper from knuckle and support it with a wire tie or hang it — do NOT let caliper hang on the flexible brake hose.
- Remove brake rotor if necessary for access.
- Disconnect ABS sensor wire brackets, brake hose bracket on strut, and any swaybar endlink connected to the strut/knuckle.
- Mark orientation of strut to knuckle (note cam positions or alignment marks) — helps during reassembly.

4) Support lower control arm / hub
- Place a jack under the lower control arm or hub assembly and support it so the knuckle cannot drop when strut bolts are removed. Slight upward pressure is often required to maintain alignment and keep ball joint seated.

5) Remove lower strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Remove the lower mounting bolts (usually 2 bolts through the knuckle). Use breaker bar or impact if necessary. If bolts are frozen, penetrating oil + time, heating the knuckle around the bolt can help.
- Separate the strut from the knuckle. Use a pry bar or gentle hammer blows on the bolt head side to release.

6) Remove top strut nuts
- Inside engine bay or strut tower, remove the top strut nuts while keeping the strut shaft supported (some stuts have a press-in nut that is left captive). Do not allow the strut to drop; keep one hand supporting the assembly or use a rod through the strut hole to hold it while removing nuts.

7) Remove strut assembly
- Pull the entire strut assembly down and out from the wheel well.

8) Disassemble strut (off vehicle)
- Secure the strut in a vice by the strut body (not the shaft). Put on face shield.
- Install spring compressor on opposite sides of the coil spring (two compressors), engage securely on coil windings (not on ends), and tighten alternately and evenly until spring load is released from the top mount.
- Hold the strut rod with appropriate Allen/Torx key or a nut-holding tool and remove the top nut. Carefully decompress the spring while keeping hands clear and compressors aligned.
- Remove spring, dust boot, bump stop, top mount, and piston/strut cartridge if replacing only cartridge.

How the spring compressor is used (details)
- Fit the compressor hooks on separate coils about 180° apart and on the same coil turn count from each end so load is evenly distributed.
- Tighten each compressor a few turns alternately so both compress at the same rate. Never compress one side fully and then the other.
- Only use compressors rated above motorcycle/automotive spring loads; inspect for damage before use.
- Once compressed enough to relieve pressure on the top mount, loosen the top nut while holding the strut rod to prevent it spinning. Remove the top nut and slowly decompress, verifying components free.

9) Replace wear items
- Install new dust boot, bump stop, top mount and bearing as required.
- If replacing strut cartridge only, ensure shaft threads and seals are clean and use proper torque on top nut.
- For complete strut assembly replacements, you’ll often get a preassembled unit — skip disassembly and go to reinstallation.

10) Reassembly & install strut
- Reassemble spring/strut components, compressing spring and tightening top nut to specified torque. Verify bearing rotates freely (if applicable).
- Remove compressors only after top nut properly torqued.
- Raise strut up into strut tower, insert and hand-tighten top nuts (do not torque fully yet if manufacturer requires suspension at ride height).
- Align lower strut with knuckle and insert lower bolts; hand-thread nuts then torque per spec. If manufacturer requires torquing with suspension loaded, either restore vehicle to weight on wheels or consult manual — generally torque lower bolts to specified Nm.
- Reconnect swaybar endlinks, brake hose brackets, ABS sensor clips.

11) Final torques & checks
- Torque top strut nuts to specification (consult manual). Note: some procedures call for final top nut torque with vehicle on the ground (suspension at ride height) to avoid preloading.
- Torque lower bolts and all hardware to spec.
- Reinstall wheel, torque lug nuts to spec, lower vehicle to ground, torque lug nuts to final value.

12) Post‑installation
- Check brake line/ABS sensor routing; ensure no binding at full lock or suspension travel.
- Test drive very cautiously and listen for noise.
- Get professional 4‑wheel alignment immediately (required after strut removal or any suspension geometry change).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using the wrong spring compressor or parking the spring compressor off‑center — always use rated compressors, place hooks on full coil and compress evenly.
- Letting the hub/knuckle drop — always support with jack so CV axle/ball joints aren’t overstressed or broken.
- Not replacing strut mount/bearing and bump stop — these commonly fail and will give premature noise if left old.
- Overtightening or undertorquing bolts — use torque wrench and factory specs. If uncertain, consult the vehicle workshop manual.
- Forgetting to reattach ABS/brake line brackets — leads to stressed lines and sensor faults.
- Reusing badly corroded lower bolts — replace if seized or visibly weakened.
- Skipping wheel alignment — leads to uneven tyre wear and poor handling.
- Compressing the spring incorrectly or standing in the spring line — risk of severe injury.

Notes specific to tooling & tricky fasteners
- Impact wrench: useful for stubborn nuts but when using impact on top strut nuts it can spin the shaft; hold strut rod with correct Allen/Torx bit in the shaft head.
- Penetrating oil and time are better than excessive force; heat knuckle area with a torch if necessary, but protect nearby rubber/plastic components and ABS wiring.
- If top nuts are in a tight engine bay, use a long ratchet with flexible extension or special strut top socket.

Torque specs & service manual
- Torque values vary by model/year and are critical. Consult the Jeep Commer XH/XK factory workshop manual for exact Nm values and any model‑specific steps (e.g., torque lower bolts with vehicle at ride height). If manual is unavailable, get values from a reputable database before final torquing.

End result
- Replace both sides in pairs for consistent handling. After installation, wheel alignment is required. Double‑check all fasteners and clearances before driving.

No questions asked — follow these steps and the factory workshop manual torque/spec notes for your Jeep Commer XH/XK.
rteeqp73

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