Quick overview — what you’re doing and why
- The drive (serpentine) belt transfers engine power from the crankshaft to accessories: alternator, water pump, power steering pump, air‑conditioning compressor and any idler(s). Think of it like a rubber drive band on a bicycle that powers the lights, horn and gears at once. If the belt fails, you lose charging, cooling, power steering and/or A/C and can be stranded or overheat the engine. Replacing a worn belt (and checking the tensioner/idlers) is a common, straightforward workshop job.

Parts/components (what each is and what it does)
- Drive belt (serpentine or V‑belt): a ribbed rubber loop reinforced with cords. Ribs mate to grooves on accessory pulleys for positive drive. Wears by cracking, glazing, stretching, or contamination from oil/coolant.
- Crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer: the main drive pulley on the front of the crank. Provides the driving surface for the belt; also damps engine vibrations (harmonic balancer portion).
- Alternator pulley: driven pulley on the alternator; charges the battery.
- Water pump pulley: drives the water pump that circulates coolant.
- Power steering pump pulley: drives the pump for hydraulic power steering.
- A/C compressor pulley: drives the compressor clutch when A/C is on.
- Idler pulley(s): free‑spinning pulleys that route the belt and maintain alignment.
- Tensioner pulley + tensioner arm + spring (automatic tensioner): spring‑loaded arm that applies the correct tension to the belt automatically. Some older systems use a manual adjuster (alternator pivot + adjust bolt).
- Belt routing label/diagram: usually on the radiator support or underhood — shows correct routing.
- Mounting bolts/brackets: hold accessories and tensioner in place.
- Fan/shroud (if present): may need partial removal for access on some engines.

Theory / how the system works (simple)
- The crankshaft pulley turns with the engine. The belt wraps around various pulleys; friction between the belt ribs and pulley grooves transfers torque. The tensioner keeps the belt tight enough so it won’t slip but not so tight that bearings wear prematurely. The system is a single loop: if the belt breaks, every accessory driven by it stops immediately (like removing the chain from a bicycle — the wheel keeps turning but nothing connected to it moves).

Why the repair is needed / common failure modes
- Belt wear: cracking, fraying, glazing (shiny/ridged surface), rib separation, chunking — reduces grip and can cause slip, noise, or breakage.
- Contamination: oil or coolant on the belt causes slippage and premature failure.
- Tensioner failure: spring loses tension or bearing in the tensioner pulley/worn arm leads to slack, vibration, squeal or belt derailment.
- Idler/alternator/other pulleys: bearing wear causes noise or rough spinning; misaligned pulleys can wear the belt edge and cause premature failure.
- Misrouting: incorrect routing causes poor tension and interference with components.
- Result of failure: battery not charging, overheating (water pump stopped), heavy steering, A/C loss, engine damage if timing belt/chain confusion (note: this procedure is for accessory drive belts, not timing belts/chain).

Tools & materials you’ll need
- New correct part: replacement belt (exact size and rib count per OEM), optionally new tensioner and idler(s) if worn.
- Wrenches/sockets: common SAE/metric set, long breaker bar or ratchet for tensioner (size depends on vehicle), possibly a serpentine belt tool (long handle/offset).
- Torque wrench (to final‑tighten bolts to specified torque from manual).
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Pen and paper / phone camera (to record routing before removal).
- Cleaning rag, brake cleaner (for pulley cleaning only — don’t soak belt), gloves, safety glasses.
- Optional: belt tension gauge if your vehicle uses a manual adjuster.

Workshop procedure — step by step (beginner friendly)
Safety first
1. Park on level ground, engine off, parking brake on. Let engine cool. Remove jewelry and wear gloves and safety glasses. If you’ll be working near the battery/alternator electrical connections, remove the negative battery cable to avoid short circuits (recommended if you will be unplugging electrical connectors or using tools above the battery area).

Preparation
2. Locate the belt routing diagram under the hood. If there is no diagram, take a clear photo of the belt routing from multiple angles or draw a sketch. This is vital.
3. Gather tools and new belt (and tensioner/idler if you plan to replace them).

Inspect before removal
4. Visually inspect the belt for cracks, glazing, missing chunks, or oil contamination. Spin each pulley by hand (with engine off) — there should be no play or roughness and they should turn smoothly. If any pulley is rough or noisy, replace that pulley or the component.
5. Check the tensioner for smooth operation and spring tension. If the tensioner has visible cracks, or the pulley bearing is noisy, replace it.

Remove the old belt
6. Find the tensioner. For a spring‑loaded (automatic) tensioner you will rotate the tensioner arm to relieve tension:
- Fit the correct socket or belt tool onto the tensioner square or pulley bolt.
- Pull/turn the tool in the direction specified by the tensioner arrow (usually clockwise) to release tension. Hold it in that position and slip the belt off an easy access pulley (usually the alternator or idler).
- Carefully release the tensioner back to its resting position.
If the vehicle uses a manual adjuster: loosen the adjuster and pivot bolt (alternator or adjuster arm) and relieve tension by moving the alternator inward to slacken the belt.
7. Remove the belt from all pulleys and take it out.

Inspect components again
8. Clean pulleys of debris and check grooves for damage. Use a straightedge to check pulley alignment — misaligned pulleys can cause rapid belt wear.
9. Spin each pulley to check bearings. If any pulleys are rough, wobble, or have play, replace that pulley/tensioner now.

Install the new belt
10. Compare old and new belts to ensure correct length and rib configuration.
11. Route the new belt according to the routing diagram/photo. Start by routing the belt around lower/inner pulleys first and leave the easiest‑to‑release pulley for last (usually the tensioner).
12. For an automatic tensioner: rotate the tensioner with your tool to create slack, slip the belt over the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner so it applies tension to the new belt. Make sure the belt is fully seated in each pulley groove (ribs aligned with grooves).
For manual adjusters: position the belt, pull the tensioner/alternator to correct tension, and tighten the adjuster and pivot bolts snugly, then torque to spec.
13. Double‑check routing and that the belt sits in the center of the grooves everywhere.

Tension and final checks
14. If the system automatically tensions, no additional adjustment needed. If manual, set deflection per spec (common rule of thumb: about 1/2" (12 mm) deflection at midpoint with moderate finger pressure; better to use a belt tension gauge or factory spec).
15. Torque all mounting bolts to factory specifications (consult the service manual; if you don’t have access, hand‑tighten securely and use a torque wrench and proper specs as soon as possible).
16. Reconnect the negative battery cable if removed.

Start and observe
17. Start the engine and observe belt operation with engine at idle and then slightly higher RPM. Watch for:
- Proper tracking (no shifting side to side).
- No squeal or chirp (short break‑in squeal can be normal for a minute; persistent squeal indicates misalignment or contamination).
- No obvious vibration or slapping.
18. Shut engine off and recheck pulley bolts for tightness and belt seating.

Troubleshooting common problems
- Squealing on start:
- Causes: glazed belt, oil/coolant contamination, misaligned pulley, weak tensioner.
- Fix: check for contamination; replace belt if contaminated, replace/align pulleys or tensioner.
- Belt jumps off a pulley:
- Causes: misrouting, misaligned pulley, damaged pulley lip, incorrect belt size.
- Fix: reinstall correct routing, replace damaged pulley, recheck belt length.
- Loud chirp or growl from pulley:
- Causes: bad bearing in idler/tensioner/alternator.
- Fix: replace failing pulley or component.
- Rapid wear after replacement:
- Causes: misalignment, contaminated pulleys, improper installation/orientation.
- Fix: inspect pulleys alignment with straightedge, clean pulleys, verify belt ribs match groove orientation.

When to replace the tensioner or idlers
- Replace automatic tensioner if: pulley bearing noisy, spring weak (belt slips often), visible damage, or if it has >100k miles (common practice to replace tensioner at same time as belt).
- Replace idlers/alternator bearings if any roughness or play is detected.

Useful maintenance tips
- Keep spare belt and basic tools in the trunk.
- Inspect belt every oil change for cracks and glazing.
- Never coat a replacement belt with belt dressing — it’s a temporary fix that masks problems.
- If the belt was contaminated by oil/coolant, find and repair the leak source; fresh belt will fail quickly if contamination continues.
- Replace belt and tensioner together if you want to avoid repeating the job soon.

Disposal and recycling
- Worn belts are rubber — dispose of according to local regulations; many auto shops will recycle rubber parts.

Notes and cautions
- This guide covers accessory drive belts (serpentine/V‑belt). It does not cover timing belt replacement — timing systems are engine‑specific and critical; incorrect work can destroy an engine.
- Exact socket sizes, torques and the direction to rotate a specific Jeep Commer XH/XK tensioner can vary. Consult the vehicle’s workshop manual or labeled under‑hood diagram for model‑specific details before you torque bolts or remove components.
- If you’re uncomfortable with rotating the tensioner or with tasks like removing the fan clutch or shroud, get a helper or a professional.

That’s the complete workshop approach: understand the parts, inspect, remove the old belt safely, check and replace worn pulleys/tensioner as needed, route and install the new belt, and verify operation.
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