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Jeep Commander XH XK 2006-2010 Workshop Repair Manual digital download

Brief theory
- Function: an ignition coil is a high‑voltage transformer that converts the low battery voltage (12 V) into the high voltage (kV) needed to create a spark at the plug. In modern Jeep Commander XH/XK engines (coil‑on‑plug units), each cylinder has its own coil directly over the spark plug.
- How it fails: coils fail electrically (open/shorted primary or secondary windings), thermally (insulation breakdown), or mechanically (cracked housing, oil ingress, carbon tracking). A failing coil produces weak or no spark → incomplete combustion → misfire, rough idle, loss of power, increased emissions, poor fuel economy, and diagnostic trouble codes (P030x for cylinder misfires, P035x for coil circuit faults).
- How replacement fixes it: a new coil restores proper primary/secondary impedance and insulation, re‑establishing correct spark energy/timing at the plug. That allows normal combustion to resume; misfire symptoms and related codes should clear once the system is operating and the ECM sees normal cylinder combustion.

Quick diagnostic checks before replacing
1. Read codes with a scan tool. Note P030x (misfire cylinder number) or P035x (coil circuit).
2. Swap the suspected coil with a known good coil from another cylinder and run the engine. If the misfire or code follows the coil, the coil is bad.
3. Measure coil resistances with a multimeter (engine off, coil unplugged): primary resistance typically very low (around 0.5–2 Ω), secondary several kiloohms (often 5–20 kΩ). Compare to factory spec; large deviation implies failure.
4. Inspect coil for visible damage: cracks, oil contamination, carbon tracking on the boot. Inspect wiring/connector for corrosion or loose pins.
5. If available, an oscilloscope gives a definitive waveform for ignition primary; irregular waveforms indicate coil or wiring/driver problems.

Ordered workshop procedure (coil‑on‑plug removal/replacement)
Safety: work on a cool engine, wear eye protection. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you will be unplugging ignition connectors or working around electronics (recommended for safety when replacing multiple coils).

1. Prepare
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, open hood, allow engine to cool.
- Gather tools: ratchet, short extension, appropriate socket for coil bolts (usually 8 mm), dielectric grease, torque wrench, RTV or anti‑seize if specified for spark plugs, multimeter/scan tool.

2. Access
- Remove any engine covers that obstruct access to coils (remove fasteners, lift cover off).
- Identify coil location(s) per cylinder.

3. Note ECM state
- If you plan to replace more than one coil, note stored codes and freeze frame. Use scan tool to record live data if needed.

4. Remove a coil (do one cylinder at a time)
- Unplug the electrical connector: press locking tab and pull straight out. Do not pull on wires.
- Remove the coil retaining bolt(s) with the correct socket/driver.
- Pull the coil straight up/out. Wiggle slightly if stuck but avoid twisting the boot excessively.
- Inspect the coil boot and plug area for oil, carbon, or damage.

5. Inspect spark plug
- With coil removed you can see the plug. If replacing coils because of misfire, inspect spark plug condition (fouling, gap, wear).
- If spark plugs are within service interval or show fouling/wear, replace plugs while you’re there. Follow plug gap and torque specs from factory manual.

6. Test the removed coil (optional bench test)
- Measure primary and secondary resistances with a multimeter (see earlier). Alternatively, swap with a known good coil as described in diagnostics.
- If coil shows open circuit, short, or out‑of‑spec values, replace it.

7. Install new coil
- If installing new coil-on-plug units, ensure boots are clean and dry. Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the boot to aid sealing and removal.
- Seat the coil over the plug straight down until fully seated.
- Fit retaining bolt(s) and tighten to factory torque (consult service manual for exact Nm). If you don’t have the manual, snug the bolt and then give a controlled fraction of a turn — do not overtighten.
- Reconnect electrical connector until it clicks.

8. Repeat for each affected coil
- Replace coils one at a time to avoid mixing connectors, unless replacing all coils.

9. Reassembly
- Reinstall engine cover and any removed components.
- Reconnect battery negative if disconnected.

10. Post‑repair checks
- Clear codes with a scan tool. Start the engine and let it idle.
- Observe idle quality, listen for misfire, and monitor live misfire counters via scan tool.
- Road test under load and monitor for recurrence of misfire codes.
- If codes persist and misfire follows a cylinder after coil swap, suspect wiring/ECM injector or mechanical problems (valve, compression) rather than coil.

How the repair fixes specific faults (concise)
- Electrical open/short (coil windings damaged): new coil restores correct winding continuity and insulation so the coil can step up voltage properly. Result: spark energy returns and cylinder fires.
- Carbon tracking/cracked boot: old boot leaked current to ground; replacing coil/boot prevents leakage so voltage reaches the plug tip. Result: spark at correct location, no misfire.
- Thermal degradation (intermittent misfire when hot): new coil has correct insulation and materials so it survives operating temperature; intermittent failures stop.
- Connector/wiring corrosion: replacing coil plus cleaning/replacing connector ensures proper primary drive current from ECM to the coil; correct primary current yields correct secondary voltage and spark.

Common pitfalls and notes
- Always verify that the misfire follows the coil before replacing multiple coils. Coils sometimes pass bench resistance tests but fail under load; swapping is the practical confirmation.
- Don’t overtighten coil bolts or spark plugs. Use correct torque values from the service manual.
- If misfires persist after coil replacement, check coil driver circuits (P035x codes), ignition control from ECM, spark plug condition, fuel injector operation, and cylinder compression.
- Replacing plugs at the same time is good practice if plugs are due or fouled — bad plugs can stress coils and lead to premature coil failure.

End.
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