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Massey Ferguson MF135 MF150 MF165 tractor factory workshop and repair download manual

1) Theory — what the release (throw‑out) bearing does
- The release bearing sits between the clutch fork (or slave actuator) and the pressure‑plate fingers. When you press the clutch pedal the fork pushes the bearing against the pressure‑plate diaphragm; the bearing converts that axial push into smooth rotation so the diaphragm can release the driven clutch disc from the flywheel.
- Good bearing = smooth, low‑friction rotation and full axial travel so the diaphragm springs lift the pressure plate off the disc. A worn/failing bearing = noise (grinding/whine), increased friction or sticking, incomplete disengagement, clutch drag or grinding when shifting, and extra wear on the pressure plate and clutch disc.
- Replacement restores a low‑friction interface and correct axial movement so the pressure plate can fully release the disc and the transmission input shaft stops turning relative to the engine when the pedal is depressed.

2) Symptoms that point to the release bearing
- Noise (squeal/grind/whine) only while pedal depressed or when pedal initially pressed.
- Clutch does not fully disengage: hard/shaky shifts, gears grind, tractor creeps in neutral with pedal down.
- Pedal feels rough or vibrates.
- Visual leak or contamination (if bearing is grease‑lubricated and contaminated).

3) Tools, parts and checks before starting
- New release bearing (correct part for MF135/150/165), possibly new clutch disc and pressure plate if mileage/wear suggests.
- Pilot bearing/bushing (replace if accessible).
- Alignment tool, socket/set, torque wrench, pry bars, supports for gearbox, penetrating fluid, clean rags.
- Service manual for torque specs and clutch pedal free‑play spec.
- Safety gear, engine/transmission supports, jack stands.

4) Safety
- Support rear of tractor and front securely; never support gearbox with jacks only.
- Disconnect battery/kill fuel as needed.
- Mark linkage positions so reassembly returns original geometry.

5) Ordered procedure with theory (concise)
1. Prepare and drain as needed
- Park level, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Drain or prepare to catch oil if required when separating gearbox.
- Theory: preventing contamination of clutch parts and avoiding live electrical hazards.

2. Remove obstructions and linkage
- Remove hood panels, PTO/ linkages from gearbox release fork and slave as needed, disconnect speedometer/cables.
- Theory: provides space and prevents damage to linkages.

3. Support and separate gearbox from engine
- Support gearbox with a jack and blocks. Remove gearbox mount bolts and bellhousing bolts. Slide gearbox rearwards off engine/tapered input shaft until clutch assembly is exposed; on these models you will likely need to lower or remove the gearbox entirely.
- Theory: release bearing normally rides on the gearbox input shaft; you must separate to access the clutch and bearing.

4. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc
- Loosen pressure plate bolts evenly in a star pattern a few turns at a time to relieve diaphragm spring tension gradually. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc using an alignment tool.
- Theory: controlled loosening prevents diaphragm spring distortion and allows inspection of contact surfaces.

5. Inspect components (before removing bearing)
- Examine clutch disc for uneven wear, glazing, oil contamination. Inspect pressure plate friction surface and diaphragm fingers for peening, heat spots or uneven wear.
- Inspect flywheel for scoring/heat spots and check runout.
- Theory: release bearing failure often coincides with clutch wear; replacing only the bearing may be short‑lived if other parts are worn.

6. Remove release bearing and fork/actuator
- Depending on setup: remove retaining clip or collar and slide the old bearing off the input shaft/sleeve or the bearing carrier off the fork. Inspect the release fork pivot points, bushings/pins, and the actuator (hydraulic slave or cable) for wear.
- Theory: bearing must slide freely on input shaft sleeve and fork must pivot without binding; any binding reproduces bearing failure.

7. Inspect/replace pilot bushing and input shaft
- Check pilot bearing/bushing in flywheel for wear; replace if rough. Inspect input shaft splines for wear and the bearing contact sleeve for scoring or ovality.
- Theory: worn pilot or splines cause misalignment, vibration and accelerated bearing wear.

8. Clean and prep
- Clean mating faces, remove grease, dirt. Lightly lube fork pivot points and the small sliding surface if manufacturer permits — do NOT pack grease on the bearing race that contacts the diaphragm or the friction surfaces. Do not grease clutch disc splines unless manual says to.
- Theory: correct lubrication reduces friction only where required; grease on friction surfaces contaminates clutch.

9. Install new release bearing and any new components
- Fit bearing in correct orientation; secure retaining clips. Fit onto input shaft/sleeve so the bearing faces the diaphragm. Replace pilot bushing if done. Refit clutch disc with alignment tool and pressure plate.
- Tighten pressure plate bolts evenly to specified torque in star pattern.
- Theory: correct orientation and even torque ensure diaphragm springs return symmetrically and bearing contacts the diaphragm evenly; misorientation or uneven torquing causes uneven release.

10. Reassemble gearbox and linkages
- Slide gearbox back into position carefully, ensuring input shaft engages splines without forcing (use alignment tool as needed). Reinstall bellhousing and mount bolts to specified torque. Reconnect linkages, cables, hydraulic lines, and bleed clutch hydraulic if present.
- Theory: correct re-engagement avoids spline damage and misalignment that would load the bearing.

11. Adjust clutch free travel and test
- Set pedal free play to spec (typical tractors ~10–20 mm but use manual). For hydraulic clutch, ensure correct pushrod preload and no air in system.
- Start engine, with brakes on test clutch engagement/disengagement: listen for bearing noise with pedal depressed, check for smooth shifts and no dragging or grinding.
- Theory: correct free play keeps bearing off diaphragm at rest to prevent premature wear; too little play keeps bearing loaded, too much prevents full disengagement.

6) Inspection tolerances and checks to record
- Bearing: no roughness when rotated by hand, no axial looseness or play beyond slight manufacturer spec. Replace if racquets, scoring, or rough spots.
- Fork pivots: minimal play but smooth pivoting; worn pivots/bushings cause misalignment.
- Flywheel face: flat, no severe grooves — resurface if scored.
- Clutch disc: thickness compared to new spec; contamination = replace.
- Spline fit: disc should slide on input shaft smoothly with light resistance; heavy binding = replace or dress splines.

7) Why this repair fixes the fault (short)
- Removes a damaged, high‑friction/worn rotating interface so the diaphragm spring pushes against a smooth, low‑friction bearing surface — allows full, even release of the pressure plate from the disc. That eliminates pedal‑depressed noise, reduces drag, restores full disengagement so gears mesh cleanly, and stops secondary wear to flywheel and disc.

8) Post‑repair checks and likely outcomes
- No bearing noise while pedal depressed. Smooth clutch engagement with reduced pedal vibration. Shifts should be smooth with no grinding. If problems persist, check for misaligned reinstallation, damaged pressure plate, warped flywheel, or hydraulic adjustment/air.

9) Final notes (concise)
- Replace clutch disc/pressure plate as a set if age/mileage moderate to high; release bearing often fails because other parts are worn.
- Use correct MF135/150/165 part numbers and torque specs from the workshop manual.
- Safety: use correct supports and torque sequences.

End.
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