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The PDF manual covers
* BELT PULLEY
* BRAKES
* CONDENSED SERVICE DATA
* CONTINENTAL NON-DIESEL ENGINE & COMPONENTS
* COOLING SYSTEM
* DIESEL ENGINE & COMPONENTS
* DIESEL FUEL SYSTEM
* DIFFERENTIAL, BEVEL GEARS & FINAL DRIVE
* DUAL RANGE TRANSMISSION (WITHOUT MULTIPOWER)
* ENGINE CLUTCH
* FRONT SYSTEM
* PETROL FUEL SYSTEM
* HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
* IGNITION & ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
* INDEPENDENT POWER TAKE-OFF
* INDEX
* MULTIPOWER TRANSMISSION
* NON-DIESEL GOVERNOR
* PERKINS NON-DIESEL ENGINE & COMPONENTS
* POWER STEERING SYSTEM
* POWER TAKE-OFF (CONSTANT RUNNING & TRANSMISSION DRIVEN)
* STEERING GEAR
About the Massey Ferguson MF135
Massey Ferguson developed a wide range of agricultural vehicles and have a large share in the market across the world especially in Europe. The next big selling model was the MF135, widely popular because of its reliability and power compared with other tractors at the time. This was the first model in the MF 100 series. The Massey Ferguson 135 is a popular tractor. In fact it is one of the most popular tractors for vintage and classic enthusiasts.
1) Theory — what the release (throw‑out) bearing does
- The release bearing sits between the clutch fork (or slave actuator) and the pressure‑plate fingers. When you press the clutch pedal the fork pushes the bearing against the pressure‑plate diaphragm; the bearing converts that axial push into smooth rotation so the diaphragm can release the driven clutch disc from the flywheel.
- Good bearing = smooth, low‑friction rotation and full axial travel so the diaphragm springs lift the pressure plate off the disc. A worn/failing bearing = noise (grinding/whine), increased friction or sticking, incomplete disengagement, clutch drag or grinding when shifting, and extra wear on the pressure plate and clutch disc.
- Replacement restores a low‑friction interface and correct axial movement so the pressure plate can fully release the disc and the transmission input shaft stops turning relative to the engine when the pedal is depressed.
2) Symptoms that point to the release bearing
- Noise (squeal/grind/whine) only while pedal depressed or when pedal initially pressed.
- Clutch does not fully disengage: hard/shaky shifts, gears grind, tractor creeps in neutral with pedal down.
- Pedal feels rough or vibrates.
- Visual leak or contamination (if bearing is grease‑lubricated and contaminated).
3) Tools, parts and checks before starting
- New release bearing (correct part for MF135/150/165), possibly new clutch disc and pressure plate if mileage/wear suggests.
- Pilot bearing/bushing (replace if accessible).
- Alignment tool, socket/set, torque wrench, pry bars, supports for gearbox, penetrating fluid, clean rags.
- Service manual for torque specs and clutch pedal free‑play spec.
- Safety gear, engine/transmission supports, jack stands.
4) Safety
- Support rear of tractor and front securely; never support gearbox with jacks only.
- Disconnect battery/kill fuel as needed.
- Mark linkage positions so reassembly returns original geometry.
5) Ordered procedure with theory (concise)
1. Prepare and drain as needed
- Park level, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Drain or prepare to catch oil if required when separating gearbox.
- Theory: preventing contamination of clutch parts and avoiding live electrical hazards.
2. Remove obstructions and linkage
- Remove hood panels, PTO/ linkages from gearbox release fork and slave as needed, disconnect speedometer/cables.
- Theory: provides space and prevents damage to linkages.
3. Support and separate gearbox from engine
- Support gearbox with a jack and blocks. Remove gearbox mount bolts and bellhousing bolts. Slide gearbox rearwards off engine/tapered input shaft until clutch assembly is exposed; on these models you will likely need to lower or remove the gearbox entirely.
- Theory: release bearing normally rides on the gearbox input shaft; you must separate to access the clutch and bearing.
4. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc
- Loosen pressure plate bolts evenly in a star pattern a few turns at a time to relieve diaphragm spring tension gradually. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc using an alignment tool.
- Theory: controlled loosening prevents diaphragm spring distortion and allows inspection of contact surfaces.
5. Inspect components (before removing bearing)
- Examine clutch disc for uneven wear, glazing, oil contamination. Inspect pressure plate friction surface and diaphragm fingers for peening, heat spots or uneven wear.
- Inspect flywheel for scoring/heat spots and check runout.
- Theory: release bearing failure often coincides with clutch wear; replacing only the bearing may be short‑lived if other parts are worn.
6. Remove release bearing and fork/actuator
- Depending on setup: remove retaining clip or collar and slide the old bearing off the input shaft/sleeve or the bearing carrier off the fork. Inspect the release fork pivot points, bushings/pins, and the actuator (hydraulic slave or cable) for wear.
- Theory: bearing must slide freely on input shaft sleeve and fork must pivot without binding; any binding reproduces bearing failure.
7. Inspect/replace pilot bushing and input shaft
- Check pilot bearing/bushing in flywheel for wear; replace if rough. Inspect input shaft splines for wear and the bearing contact sleeve for scoring or ovality.
- Theory: worn pilot or splines cause misalignment, vibration and accelerated bearing wear.
8. Clean and prep
- Clean mating faces, remove grease, dirt. Lightly lube fork pivot points and the small sliding surface if manufacturer permits — do NOT pack grease on the bearing race that contacts the diaphragm or the friction surfaces. Do not grease clutch disc splines unless manual says to.
- Theory: correct lubrication reduces friction only where required; grease on friction surfaces contaminates clutch.
9. Install new release bearing and any new components
- Fit bearing in correct orientation; secure retaining clips. Fit onto input shaft/sleeve so the bearing faces the diaphragm. Replace pilot bushing if done. Refit clutch disc with alignment tool and pressure plate.
- Tighten pressure plate bolts evenly to specified torque in star pattern.
- Theory: correct orientation and even torque ensure diaphragm springs return symmetrically and bearing contacts the diaphragm evenly; misorientation or uneven torquing causes uneven release.
10. Reassemble gearbox and linkages
- Slide gearbox back into position carefully, ensuring input shaft engages splines without forcing (use alignment tool as needed). Reinstall bellhousing and mount bolts to specified torque. Reconnect linkages, cables, hydraulic lines, and bleed clutch hydraulic if present.
- Theory: correct re-engagement avoids spline damage and misalignment that would load the bearing.
11. Adjust clutch free travel and test
- Set pedal free play to spec (typical tractors ~10–20 mm but use manual). For hydraulic clutch, ensure correct pushrod preload and no air in system.
- Start engine, with brakes on test clutch engagement/disengagement: listen for bearing noise with pedal depressed, check for smooth shifts and no dragging or grinding.
- Theory: correct free play keeps bearing off diaphragm at rest to prevent premature wear; too little play keeps bearing loaded, too much prevents full disengagement.
6) Inspection tolerances and checks to record
- Bearing: no roughness when rotated by hand, no axial looseness or play beyond slight manufacturer spec. Replace if racquets, scoring, or rough spots.
- Fork pivots: minimal play but smooth pivoting; worn pivots/bushings cause misalignment.
- Flywheel face: flat, no severe grooves — resurface if scored.
- Clutch disc: thickness compared to new spec; contamination = replace.
- Spline fit: disc should slide on input shaft smoothly with light resistance; heavy binding = replace or dress splines.
7) Why this repair fixes the fault (short)
- Removes a damaged, high‑friction/worn rotating interface so the diaphragm spring pushes against a smooth, low‑friction bearing surface — allows full, even release of the pressure plate from the disc. That eliminates pedal‑depressed noise, reduces drag, restores full disengagement so gears mesh cleanly, and stops secondary wear to flywheel and disc.
8) Post‑repair checks and likely outcomes
- No bearing noise while pedal depressed. Smooth clutch engagement with reduced pedal vibration. Shifts should be smooth with no grinding. If problems persist, check for misaligned reinstallation, damaged pressure plate, warped flywheel, or hydraulic adjustment/air.
9) Final notes (concise)
- Replace clutch disc/pressure plate as a set if age/mileage moderate to high; release bearing often fails because other parts are worn.
- Use correct MF135/150/165 part numbers and torque specs from the workshop manual.
- Safety: use correct supports and torque sequences.
End. rteeqp73
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Goal: Diagnose, repair and restore cylinder walls on a Massey‑Ferguson MF135 / MF150 / MF165 so the pistons and rings run on true, smooth bores with correct clearances. Below is a beginner‑mechanic’s, practical and complete guide: theory, component descriptions, inspection and decision points, step‑by‑step procedures, tools, tolerances to check, how to do a hone vs rebore/sleeve, reassembly and common failure modes. Follow factory torque specs and safety rules; where I state typical numbers, verify with your workshop manual.
Quick theory (in plain terms)
- The cylinder wall is the smooth bore the piston slides in. Pistons + rings seal combustion, control oil, and transfer heat.
- Think of the piston as a piston in a syringe: the bore must be smooth and round so the piston rings seal. If the road (cylinder wall) is potholed, out‑of‑round, or glazed, the rings won’t seal, compression is lost, oil gets past rings, and heat transfer suffers.
- Wear appears as taper (bore narrower at top or bottom), out‑of‑round (elliptical bore), vertical scratches, glazing or cracked/chipped metal. Small wear: hone and replace rings. Large wear or damage: rebore and fit oversize pistons or fit new liners/sleeves, or replace the block.
Components (every relevant part, what it does)
- Cylinder block (engine block): main structure containing bores, water jacket, oil galleries, bearing saddles. Supports crank and rods.
- Cylinder bores/walls: the machined cylindrical surfaces pistons run in.
- Pistons: move up/down; have ring grooves for compression and oil control rings; usually indicate orientation with an arrow.
- Piston rings (compression rings and oil control rings): create seal for combustion and scrape oil.
- Wrist pin / gudgeon pin: connects piston to connecting rod.
- Connecting rod: transfers piston motion to crankshaft.
- Crankshaft: converts reciprocating to rotational motion.
- Main and rod bearings: journals for crank; carry loads and oil film.
- Cylinder head: contains valves, seats, combustion chamber; bolts to block with a head gasket between.
- Head gasket: seals coolant, combustion, and oil passages between head and block.
- Valve train (valves, springs, pushrods, rockers): controls breathing; if valve problems exist they can be mistaken for cylinder issues.
- Liners / sleeves: replaceable inserts some engines use (wet liners sit in coolant, dry liners are pressed in). They restore the bore surface.
- Oil pump / galleries: supply oil to bearings and bores.
- Water jacket / freeze plugs: cooling passages around bores.
- Freeze plugs: access to machine bores or to remove corrosion; sometimes need removal/replacement.
- Timing gears or chain: to control valve timing; removed to access pistons in some engines.
- Gaskets, seals, bolts and fasteners.
Tools and consumables you’ll need
- Safety: eye protection, gloves, jack stands, engine hoist (if removing engine), drain pans.
- Hand tools: metric socket set, spanners, screwdrivers, pliers, breaker bar, torque wrench, feeler gauges.
- Measuring: dial bore gauge (0–4" range), outside micrometer (0–6" or 0–1" for pistons), telescoping gauge (backup), vernier calipers.
- Compression tester and leak‑down tester for diagnosis.
- Piston ring compressor, piston ring filing tool (if necessary), piston ring gap feeler, ring expander.
- Hone: power flex hone (rubberized) or rigid honer and stones; grit 220–400. If serious wear, access to a machining shop for rebore/sleeve.
- Honing guide or machining head.
- Straightedge and Plastigage (crank bearing check).
- Cleaning: solvent, brushes, shop rags, high‑temperature gasket sealant if required, new gaskets, new rings, new head gasket, new bearings if worn.
- Replacement parts: pistons or oversize pistons (if rebore), new liners if sleeving, new rings, new bearings, head gasket set, freeze plugs possibly.
- Index marks, magnets for collecting debris.
- Engine stand if removing block from tractor.
Diagnosis — when to repair cylinder walls
- Symptoms pointing to cylinder wear:
- Low or uneven compression on compression test (cylinders differ or below spec).
- High blow‑by at the crankcase breather, smoking (blue smoke indicates oil burning).
- Excessive oil consumption with no external leaks.
- Poor power, hard starting, loss of top end.
- Noise from piston slap (cold knock).
- Tests:
- Compression test: low compression suggests ring/bore/valve issues.
- Leak‑down test: if air leaks past rings into crankcase, rings/bore are suspect; if past valves, it’s valve/head.
- Visual inspection after removing head: piston crown deposits vs scoring on cylinder walls.
- Oil analysis and drips can help but physical measurement is necessary.
Measurement and decision criteria (how to tell if hone, rebore, or sleeve)
- Measure bore diameter at top (near the deck), middle, and bottom; measure at 0° and 90° (two directions).
- Calculate taper = max diameter − min diameter. Out‑of‑round = difference between diameters in two directions at same height.
- Typical example clearances (use for guidance only — verify with manual):
- Piston‑to‑wall clearance (gasoline): roughly 0.0015"–0.0035".
- Piston‑to‑wall clearance (small diesel / older tractors): roughly 0.002"–0.006".
- Acceptable taper/out‑of‑round: typically <0.002"–0.003". If more, need rebore or sleeves.
- If taper/out‑of‑round and scoring are minor and within allowable oversize ranges, you can hone and replace rings.
- If deep scoring, cracked/chipped bore, excessive taper/out‑of‑round beyond availability of oversize pistons, then:
- Reboring to the next oversize and using matching pistons/rings, or
- Re‑sleeving with new liners (best for severely damaged bores or when block material limits reboring).
Step‑by‑step: removal to access cylinder walls (general sequence)
1. Safety & prep
- Park on level ground, disconnect battery, drain coolant and oil into proper containers.
- Clean exterior of engine to avoid dirt entering internals.
2. Remove ancillaries
- Remove air cleaner, intake/exhaust pipes, fuel lines, injectors (diesel) or carburetor (gas), generator/alternator, starter, fan, radiator if needed to get head off easily.
- Label hoses and wires.
3. Head removal
- Remove rocker cover(s), rocker assembly or valve train as required.
- Follow loosen sequence for head bolts (reverse torque sequence), remove head and set aside.
- Inspect head gasket surface and combustion chamber/piston tops.
4. Remove oil pan and sump components
- Remove oil pan and windage tray to expose connecting rods/pistons if you’ll drop pistons.
- Remove oil pump pickup only if needed.
5. Rotate engine to top dead center of each cylinder as you disassemble to keep orientation and mark pistons/rods for reassembly.
6. Remove pistons/rods
- With the block on an engine stand or left in chassis, loosen rod caps in sequence and push pistons out through top of bores (or remove from bottom if engine is out).
- Keep rod caps with their respective rod and note orientation.
7. Inspect pistons and rings
- Measure piston diameter at skirt and compare to bore. Look for scuffing, ring groove wear, broken rings, carbon deposits.
- If pistons are scored heavily, they must be replaced or machined (often replaced).
Measuring bores (detailed)
- Clean bore well. Use a dial bore gauge: zero it on a micrometer to known reference, then measure at top, middle, bottom, 0° and 90°. Write readings.
- Determine taper: (reading top − reading bottom). Determine out‑of‑round: (reading at 0° − reading at 90°).
- Compare to spec (manual). If within service limits and no deep scratches, you can hone and replace rings. If not, rebore or sleeve.
Honing vs rebore/sleeve — what to do and how
- Honing (when to use):
- Light glazing or minor wear; bore size still within limits; surface scoring is light.
- Purpose: restore cross‑hatch pattern to allow ring seating, remove glazing, minor size correction.
- Technique:
- Use the correct abrasive stones (220–400 grit rubber hone).
- Apply cleaning oil or light honing oil.
- Rotate hone and move in/out slowly to create 25°–35° cross‑hatch angle; this helps oil retention and ring seating.
- Keep hone cutting evenly; don’t dwell at ends (prevents ledges).
- Clean thoroughly afterwards (hot water + degreaser, brushes, repeat until all metal dust removed). Magnet and strong flush; debris kills bearings and rings.
- Replace rings and measure ring end gap in new bore (file ends if necessary to spec).
- Typical final surface finish for rings: measured in micro‑inches (Roughly 30–60 µin), but practical aim is visible and measurable cross‑hatch.
- Rebore (when to use):
- If bore wear/taper/out‑of‑round exceeds honing limit or deep scoring.
- Machine shop uses boring bar, then hone to final size to achieve correct finish and roundness.
- Choose oversize piston ring/piston kit to match bore (e.g., +0.020", +0.040" over stock). Many tractor engines have common oversizes available.
- Re‑sleeving (when required):
- Block has thin walls, or previous oversize reached maximum, or block cracked.
- Liner is machined in or pressed in; may be "wet" or "dry" type depending on engine design. This is a shop job: machine block face/sleeve seats, press in sleeve, machine to final bore. Requires careful control of protrusion and sealing.
- After sleeve installation, bore is finished and honed to spec.
Installing pistons and rings (key points)
- Always use new rings when honing/boring. Clean ring grooves thoroughly.
- Check piston ring end gaps in each cylinder at correct bore temperature. Insert ring into bore around a piston to square it and measure gap. File ring ends if gap too small. Gap values are in manual; typical ranges: 0.010"–0.018" for small petrol, 0.018"–0.040" for diesels — verify for your engine.
- Orient rings correctly: oil control ring assemblies have rails and expander; compression rings may have a marking facing up. Do not overlap ring gaps; stagger them per factory pattern.
- Lubricate pistons and rings with engine oil. Use a ring compressor to compress rings and carefully tap piston into bore. Ensure piston orientation arrow points to front (or per piston marking).
- Refit rod caps with correct orientation and torque to spec.
Reassembly and final checks
- Clean all mating surfaces. Use new head gasket and follow correct head bolt torque sequence and stages (usually three stages: snug, intermediate, final with angle or torque). Use manual specs.
- Refit ancillary parts in reverse order. Replace coolant and oil filters, oil and coolant.
- Prime oil system before first crank: crank by hand or by using starter to build oil pressure with fuel/ignition disabled or use oil pump priming method. Check oil pressure.
- First start/break‑in:
- Run at moderate speed, varying RPMs for the first hour(s) (don’t lug or race). Avoid heavy loads for the first 4–8 hours of operation to seat rings properly.
- Recheck torque on head bolts only if manual says, check coolant and oil levels frequently.
Common things that can go wrong and how to avoid/fix
- Scoring from debris after honing/reassembly: CLEAN thoroughly. Use magnets and wash bores. Any leftover abrasive or metal will ruin bearings and cylinder walls.
- Incorrect clearances (too tight → seizure; too loose → blow‑by and noise): measure pistons and bores precisely and follow specs.
- Improper cross‑hatch angle: rings won’t seat, causing ring glazing and oil consumption. Aim for 25°–35° mark; don’t polish to mirror.
- Wrong ring gap after installing: causes ring butting and piston fracture. Measure and file as needed.
- Head gasket failure if head bolts not torqued properly: follow sequence and final torque. Replace head bolts if they’re torque‑to‑yield or stretched.
- Block cracks when overheating or freezing: inspect block around water jacket and use magnetic particle or dye penetrant if suspect.
- Detonation or pre‑ignition after reassembly: check ignition timing and injection timing for diesels.
- Ledge at top of bore (from past wear) causes ring breakage upon installation: if a ledge exists, often rebore/sleeve is required; don’t attempt to push a piston past a pronounced ledge.
Practical tips and analogies
- Think of the cylinder like a polished bearing surface for a sliding piston. Rings must seal against a smooth, round road. Honing is like retexturing asphalt so tires (rings) will bite; rebore is resurfacing and repaving the road to a bigger size; sleeving is like putting a new inner pipe into a damaged pipe.
- Always measure before throwing parts at the problem. Numbers tell you whether to hone or replace.
- Keep everything labeled and fasteners with their mating parts. Pistons and rods are matched sets.
Final checklist before startup
- All bolts torqued to spec, correct fasteners used.
- Ring gaps checked, pistons installed in correct orientation and rods torqued.
- Oil and coolant refilled and bled, battery reconnected.
- Oil pressure checked on first crank. No unusual noises or leaks.
- Run and monitor temperatures, oil pressure, and smoke; perform a recheck after a few hours.
If you want the exact factory specs (clearances, torque values, ring gaps) for an MF135/MF150/MF165 engine, get the tractor workshop manual — it has critical dimensions and torque sequences unique to those engines. Follow it for final numbers.