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Massey Ferguson MF135 MF150 MF165 tractor factory workshop and repair download manual

- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect from coolant, sharp edges and hot surfaces.
- Work with the engine cold. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid accidental shorts while working near wiring.
- Catch and dispose of drained coolant properly — it’s toxic to people and animals.

- Overview of the job (brief)
- You will drain the cooling system, remove interior panels/heater box to access the heater core, swap the core and seals/hoses/clamps as needed, reassemble and refill/bleed the system.
- Expect 2–6 hours depending on rust, access and your experience.

- Tools you need (detailed description and how to use each)
- Socket set with ratchet (3/8" drive recommended) and 8–16 mm metric sockets
- Purpose: Remove bolts/nuts holding dash panels, heater box and hose clamps that use bolts.
- How to use: Select correct socket, fit on ratchet, push onto fastener, turn counterclockwise to loosen. Use extension bars for hard-to-reach bolts. Keep sockets organized.
- Combination wrench set (open-end and box-end) 8–16 mm
- Purpose: Nuts/bolts in tight spots where a socket won’t fit.
- How to use: Use box end for more torque, open end where there’s limited swing. Pull, don’t jerk, to avoid rounding fasteners.
- Flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers (various sizes)
- Purpose: Remove screws and pry plastic clips or trim pieces carefully.
- How to use: Use correct head size to avoid stripping. Use flat head to gently pry trim or pry apart clips.
- Pliers: slip-joint (water-pump) and needle-nose
- Purpose: Grip, twist and remove small clips, hose clamps, and hold parts.
- How to use: Adjust slip-joint to jaw width; use needle-nose for small retaining clips and aligning small tubes.
- Hose clamp pliers or locking pliers (vise-grips)
- Purpose: Remove and install spring or screw-type hose clamps quickly.
- How to use: Squeeze and hold spring clamps open with hose clamp pliers; for screw clamps use a screwdriver or nut driver.
- Utility knife or hose cutter
- Purpose: Cut old hoses that are stuck on the heater core tubes.
- How to use: Carefully slice lengthwise and peel off hose; take care not to nick metal tube.
- Drain pan (large, shallow) and rags
- Purpose: Catch coolant when you drain hoses and core.
- How to use: Place under radiator/drain cock and under heater hose connections.
- Funnel and measuring container for coolant
- Purpose: Refill and measure coolant accurately.
- How to use: Use funnel to avoid spills; measure concentrate/water if mixing.
- Flashlight or portable work light
- Purpose: See inside cab and heater box.
- How to use: Keep in place or handheld to illuminate working area.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster or WD-40 specialist)
- Purpose: Loosen rusted or seized bolts.
- How to use: Spray on fastener, wait 10–15 minutes, tap with hammer to help penetration.
- Rubber mallet and small hammer
- Purpose: Tap stuck panels or core housing gently free.
- How to use: Use rubber mallet to avoid damaging panels; use light taps.
- Small pickup magnet and parts tray
- Purpose: Retrieve and keep fasteners/parts organized.
- How to use: Keep bolts and clips in a tray labeled by location.
- Optional but very helpful: Torque wrench, heat gun or small propane torch, bench vise
- Why optional: Torque wrench ensures proper clamp bolt torque (prevents leaks). Heat or torch can help free severely corroded fasteners — use with extreme caution (watch fuel, hoses). A bench vise lets you press-fit replacement core tubes if needed.
- How to use: Torque wrench—set desired torque and tighten until it clicks. Heat gun/torch—apply heat to stuck bolt, don’t apply to coolant parts or rubber; follow fire safety.

- Extra tools you may need and why
- Hose puller or pry bar: For stubborn hoses on the heater outlet tubes.
- New rivet gun or small welder: Only rarely required if heater box panels are riveted and you must replace rivets or fabricate new mounting tabs.
- Vacuum refill/bleed tool: Makes bleeding air easier but not required — you can use traditional fill-and-run method.

- Parts that may require replacement and why
- Heater core (recommended if leaking or heavily corroded)
- Why: Heater cores develop internal leaks or blockages with age; leaking coolant into cab or no heat indicates replacement.
- What to buy: Core specified for Massey Ferguson MF135/MF150/MF165 — match inlet/outlet tube spacing, tube diameter and overall size. Aftermarket cores labeled for MF135/150/165 are common. Bring old core or measurements to parts supplier if unsure.
- Heater hoses (inlet/outlet)
- Why: Rubber hoses deteriorate, harden and leak; replacement is cheap and prevents future issues.
- What to buy: High-temperature radiator/heater hose of correct inner diameter (usually 5/8" or 3/4" — verify) and length.
- Hose clamps (new, worm-gear or spring clamps)
- Why: Old clamps may be rusty or lose tension; new clamps ensure tight seals.
- What to buy: Stainless worm-drive clamps sized to hose diameter; spring clamps for OE style if used.
- Seals/gaskets and mounting hardware
- Why: Sealing flange gaskets or rubber mounting pads often perish when disturbed.
- What to buy: Any rubber gasket or felt strips used on heater box; small screws/bolts to replace corroded ones.
- Heater control valve (if fitted)
- Why: If valve is stuck or leaking it should be replaced to control flow to heater core.
- What to buy: Valve specified for tractor or universal inline valve of correct diameter.
- Radiator cap or thermostat (optional)
- Why: If coolant contamination or overheating signs exist, refresh thermostat or cap; cheap insurance.
- What to buy: Correct temp thermostat and cap rating for MF tractor.

- Preparatory steps (what to do before you start)
- Park tractor on level ground, allow engine to cool fully.
- Put on PPE and disconnect battery negative terminal.
- Place drain pan under radiator drain; open drain cock or lower radiator hose to drain coolant into pan.
- Remove any cargo, tools and seat (if it blocks access) and lay out rags and trays.

- Removing the heater core (step-by-step actions)
- Drain the cooling system into the pan until level is below heater hose connections.
- Follow heater hoses along engine bay to the heater box on the cab/firewall; note routing or take photos.
- Loosen and slide hose clamps back, or remove spring clamps with pliers. If hoses are stuck, cut them lengthwise and peel off with utility knife. Cap hoses with rags or tape to avoid more spillage.
- Remove dash face, side panels or glove box panels required to access the heater box. Use screwdrivers, sockets and pliers on fasteners. Keep fasteners in a tray and label by location.
- Unbolt heater box from firewall or cab structure. Expect a mix of screws, bolts and possibly rivets. Use penetrating oil on rusty fasteners, wait, then remove.
- Open heater box to expose heater core. Some boxes split open with screws; others have clips. Use a flashlight.
- Note the heater core inlet/outlet tube orientation and how the core sits in its cradle. Remove retaining clips or brackets holding the core.
- Carefully pull the heater core out through the access opening. Expect residual coolant — keep drain pan and rags under core.
- Inspect core: look for wetness, green/white crust (electrolysis), soft spots or corrosion. If leaking or clogged, replace.

- Installing the new heater core and reassembly
- If replacing, compare new core with old to ensure correct fit and tube spacing.
- Transfer any rubber mounting cushions or brackets from old core to new, or use new gaskets.
- Slide new core into heater box the same way the old one sat; align tubes with firewall holes.
- Reinstall retaining clips/brackets and close heater box. Replace any old screws/fasteners with new ones if corroded.
- Reattach heater hoses to the core tubes using new hose clamps. Ensure hoses seat fully on tubes and clamps are snug (firm hand-tight plus a quarter turn with a screwdriver or 7–10 ft·lb if using torque wrench).
- Reinstall dash/panels/seat in reverse order of removal.
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.

- Refilling and bleeding the cooling system
- Refill radiator with proper coolant: use pre-mixed 50/50 ethylene glycol-based coolant suitable for tractors OR mix concentrate with distilled water to 50/50.
- Start engine with heater control on hot and blower off, keep radiator cap off and run at idle until thermostat opens and coolant circulates; top up as air bleeds out; watch for leaks.
- Squeeze heater hoses (with gloves) to help purge trapped air.
- Once temperature stabilizes and no more air bubbles appear, replace radiator cap and run until at operating temperature, then recheck level when cooled.
- Check for leaks at core hose connections and around heater box.

- Testing and final checks
- Confirm heater produces hot air after engine warms.
- Inspect for coolant drips in cab or under tractor.
- Recheck clamp tightness and fasteners after a short test-drive/run.

- Troubleshooting common problems
- No heat after replacement: Check thermostat (may be stuck), air trapped in system (re-bleed), or blocked core (very rare in new core).
- Coolant smell in cab: Likely a small leak at hose/clamp or a dripping core — inspect and tighten/replace clamps.
- Rusty or seized fasteners: Use penetrating oil, heat or careful grinding. Replace fasteners after removal.

- Disposal and maintenance tips
- Dispose of old coolant at a recycling center or auto shop — do not pour on ground.
- Replace heater hoses and clamps when you replace core — cheap, prevents repeat work.
- Keep photos during disassembly to guide reassembly.
- Label and bag fasteners by their location.

- If you are a complete beginner: quick essential buys
- Basic metric socket set with ratchet, set of combination wrenches, screwdrivers (flat + Phillips), slip-joint pliers, hose clamp pliers, utility knife, drain pan, replacement heater core (OEM or correct aftermarket), new heater hoses and clamps, penetrating oil.
- Why: These let you access panels, remove the old core, fit the new core and reseal hoses. Skimping on clamps/hoses invites leaks; a proper core fit prevents rework.

- Final practical note
- Take photos of each stage, work methodically, and replace small inexpensive parts (hoses, clamps, gaskets) while you have access — it saves time later.


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