Tools and parts (minimum)
- Basic hand tools: 3/8" & 1/2" drive ratchets, metric & imperial socket sets, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench (range to cover 10–200 Nm or 8–150 ft·lb).
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty trolley jack with wood blocks / engine support.
- Bearing puller (3‑arm or internal puller) and/or slide-hammer.
- Hydraulic press or bearing driver kit (appropriate diameters) and arbor/mandrel.
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers.
- Drift punches, soft‑face hammer and dead blow.
- Seal puller and seal installer.
- Gasket scraper, brake cleaner, rags.
- Threadlocker (LOCTITE), gasket sealant (if required).
- New input‑shaft bearing (OEM part for MF135/MF150/MF165 gearbox), new input shaft oil seal(s), new circlips/snap rings, any gearbox gaskets, and gearbox oil.
- Optional: clutch alignment tool, clutch kit (pressure plate/friction plate) if wear noted.
- Safety: safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toed boots.

Safety precautions
- Work on firm, level ground. Chock wheels and engage parking brake.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal.
- Never rely on a jack alone — use heavy stands or a transmission jack under the gearbox.
- Support engine/bellhousing if removing gearbox; do not let engine tilt or hang unsupported.
- Drain gearbox oil before unbolting to avoid spills. Clean fluid as it drains.
- Keep hands/loose clothing clear of pinch points. Use eye protection when pressing/pulling.
- If heating parts to fit bearings, use controlled heat and avoid open flame near flammable fluids.

Overview of the job
You must remove and support the gearbox/bellhousing enough to access the input shaft/bearing. In most cases the gearbox is separated from the engine, the input shaft is withdrawn and the bearing is pressed out and replaced. Replace seals, circlips and gaskets while reassembling.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Preparation
- Gather parts and tools. Confirm correct replacement bearing and seals from parts manual or dealer.
- Clean area around bellhousing and gearbox so no dirt falls into the gearbox.

2. Drain gearbox oil
- Place a drain pan under the gearbox. Remove drain plug; drain completely. Dispose/collect oil properly.

3. Disconnect and remove external linkages and components
- Remove shift linkages, PTO linkages as required to free the gearbox.
- Remove clutch release linkage/rod and PTO driveshaft if it interferes.
- Remove any guards or brackets attached to the gearbox.

4. Support gearbox and engine
- Put a transmission jack under the gearbox or block a heavy jack under bellhousing with wood block.
- Support the engine if gearbox removal allows engine tilt (use engine support bar or additional jack).

5. Remove gearbox from tractor
- Remove bellhousing bolts/nuts securing gearbox to engine block. (Label bolts, note positions.)
- Carefully lower gearbox on the jack and slide it rearwards off the engine input shaft. Have an assistant guide heavy assemblies if needed.
- If the clutch assembly is in the bellhousing side, remove the clutch pressure plate and friction disc now (mark orientation).

6. Access input shaft/bearing
- With gearbox separated, place gearbox on a bench or suitable stand.
- Remove gearbox cover/inspection plate(s) as necessary to access the input shaft bearing retainer, snap ring, or retaining plate.
- Remove any circlips/snap rings holding the bearing or shaft in position (use snap‑ring pliers).

7. Withdraw input shaft (if required)
- In many MF gearboxes the input shaft must be removed from the gearbox to change the bearing. Withdraw the shaft straight out; if tight, use a puller on the shaft end or gentle taps with a brass drift on the end of the shaft while supporting gearbox. Keep track of shims/thrust washers and their order and orientation.

8. Remove bearing
- If bearing is located on the shaft: secure the shaft in a vice with soft jaws or on the press. Use a bearing puller that grips the inner race or use an internal puller that extracts the bearing without damaging the outer race. Avoid pulling on the cage.
- If bearing is in the gearbox bore: use an internal puller or slide hammer attached to the inner race. If only outer race can be gripped, use appropriate puller arms that bear on the race edge.
- If bearing is stubborn, use careful heat on the housing (not bearing) or penetrating oil — avoid heating the bearing itself.
- Do not hammer directly on the bearing inner or outer race; that will damage rollers.

9. Inspect and clean components
- Check the input shaft splines and journals for wear, scoring or pitting. Replace shaft if damaged beyond spec.
- Inspect bearing bore in gearbox for nicks/ovalization.
- Clean all mating surfaces; remove old gasket material.

10. Install new bearing
- Clean bearing and housing; lightly oil if required by bearing maker.
- Install bearing using a press or a bearing driver. RULE: when pressing a bearing onto a shaft, press on the inner race only; when pressing a bearing into a bore/housing, press on the outer race only. Press straight and even — don’t cock the bearing.
- If using heat: heat the housing (not the bearing) to expand and allow easier fit. If cooling the bearing is used (-20 °C freezer), handle carefully. Controlled heat (up to ~120°C) on housing is common — follow bearing manufacturer guidance.
- Fit any thrust washers, spacers and new snap rings in their original order and orientation.
- Replace input shaft oil seal(s) now using a seal driver, seating flush to spec.

11. Reassemble shaft and gearbox internals
- Reinstall shaft into gearbox in correct orientation, reinstall circlips/retainers, and refit any covers/plates.
- Replace any gaskets or apply gasket sealant per manual.

12. Refit gearbox to tractor
- Lift gearbox into position with tranny jack, align input shaft with clutch and pilot bearing. Use clutch alignment tool if refitting clutch.
- Install bellhousing bolts finger tight, then torque to specification in a star pattern (consult workshop manual for exact torques).
- Reconnect clutch release mechanism, linkages, PTO driveshaft and any brackets.

13. Final reassembly
- Reinstall wheels/guards removed. Refill gearbox with correct grade and volume of oil (use manual recommendation).
- Reconnect battery.

14. Adjustment & test
- Adjust clutch free play and linkage per manual.
- Start tractor and run gearbox through all gears while stationary to ensure smooth engagement and no abnormal noises.
- Test under light load, then re‑check for leaks and re‑torque bolts after a short run if recommended.

How the specialty tools are used (concise)
- Transmission jack: supports and raises/lowers gearbox safely; use wide wooden plates or adapter to protect housing.
- Bearing puller / slide hammer: hook claws behind outer race or inner race and extract by turning central forcing screw or hitting slide hammer. Choose puller type so you don’t bear on the race that will be damaged (see rule above).
- Hydraulic press / bearing driver: place shaft/bearing squarely on press bed, use driver that contacts correct race only, press slowly and evenly. Use soft jaws or backing tubes to support surrounding parts.
- Seal installer: drives new oil seal squarely into bore; use driver equal to seal outer diameter and tap evenly until flush.
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress or spread rings to remove/install without deforming them.
- Clutch alignment tool: holds friction disc centered while you bolt clutch pressure plate so input shaft will engage with pilot.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Pressing on the wrong race: damages bearing; always press on inner race for shaft, outer race for housing.
- Reusing old seals or circlips: leads to leaks or failure. Replace seals and snap rings every time.
- Contaminating bearing: don’t touch race surfaces with greasy hands; keep bearings in clean packaging until fitment.
- Not supporting engine properly: can cause misalignment or damage when gearbox removed. Use proper supports.
- Forcing gearbox misaligned: forcing gearbox onto input shaft can damage splines or pilot bearing — align carefully, use clutch alignment tool if the clutch was removed.
- Incorrect torque or missed bolts: leads to leaks, misalignment, or catastrophic failure. Torque to OEM specs (consult workshop manual).
- Hammering on bearing races: deforms rollers and shortens bearing life. Use press or appropriate drivers.
- Not replacing adjacent wear items: if clutch or pilot bearing is worn, replace while gearbox is out to avoid repeat job.
- Incorrect lubricant: use the recommended gearbox oil grade and fill level.

Parts to replace (recommended)
- Input shaft bearing (OEM/quality aftermarket equivalent).
- Input shaft oil seal(s) and any gearbox seals disturbed.
- Snap rings / circlips if deformed or old.
- Bellhousing/gearbox gaskets or RTV sealant.
- Consider replacing pilot bearing, clutch disc, pressure plate or release bearing if worn.
- New gearbox oil.

Final notes
- Exact bolt torques and bearing part numbers vary by serial/year; confirm with Massey Ferguson workshop manual or parts fiche for MF135/MF150/MF165 before final torque and ordering parts.
- Take photos during disassembly to ensure correct reassembly order of shims, spacers and linkages.

Follow these steps methodically, use the right tools (press/puller), replace seals and snap rings, and check alignment and torque values from the workshop manual for a reliable input shaft bearing replacement.
rteeqp73

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