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The PDF manual covers
* BELT PULLEY
* BRAKES
* CONDENSED SERVICE DATA
* CONTINENTAL NON-DIESEL ENGINE & COMPONENTS
* COOLING SYSTEM
* DIESEL ENGINE & COMPONENTS
* DIESEL FUEL SYSTEM
* DIFFERENTIAL, BEVEL GEARS & FINAL DRIVE
* DUAL RANGE TRANSMISSION (WITHOUT MULTIPOWER)
* ENGINE CLUTCH
* FRONT SYSTEM
* PETROL FUEL SYSTEM
* HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
* IGNITION & ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
* INDEPENDENT POWER TAKE-OFF
* INDEX
* MULTIPOWER TRANSMISSION
* NON-DIESEL GOVERNOR
* PERKINS NON-DIESEL ENGINE & COMPONENTS
* POWER STEERING SYSTEM
* POWER TAKE-OFF (CONSTANT RUNNING & TRANSMISSION DRIVEN)
* STEERING GEAR
About the Massey Ferguson MF135
Massey Ferguson developed a wide range of agricultural vehicles and have a large share in the market across the world especially in Europe. The next big selling model was the MF135, widely popular because of its reliability and power compared with other tractors at the time. This was the first model in the MF 100 series. The Massey Ferguson 135 is a popular tractor. In fact it is one of the most popular tractors for vintage and classic enthusiasts.
- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses to keep dirt and oil out of your eyes.
- Wear gloves (nitrile or mechanic’s gloves) to protect skin from oil and cleaners.
- Work with the engine off, key out, and hood supported. Allow engine to cool if it was running.
- Keep a rag/cloth and a small container for used oil/parts to avoid spills.
- Identify the air filter housing on MF135 / MF150 / MF165
- The air cleaner is mounted on the right-hand side of the engine intake. Older MF135/150/165 typically use an oil-bath type air cleaner (a round canister with a sump bowl) but some may have a dry cartridge depending on year/modifications. The housing is the round metal canister with a removable top or sump bowl.
- Tools you’ll need (detailed description and how to use each)
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Description: metal blade with a flat tip; sizes vary.
- Use: pry off clips, loosen hose clamps with slotted heads, gently separate parts. Apply steady pressure; avoid twisting that damages metal.
- Phillips screwdriver
- Description: cross-shaped tip for cross-head screws.
- Use: remove small screws on brackets or covers. Match tip size to screw head to avoid stripping.
- 1/2" or 3/8" ratchet and socket set (common metric and imperial sockets)
- Description: ratchet handle plus sockets (usually 8–19 mm and 5/16"–3/4" ranges).
- Use: remove bolts/nuts holding the air cleaner to the intake or bracket. Select socket that fits snugly; turn ratchet handle clockwise/counterclockwise to loosen/tighten.
- Adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench)
- Description: single movable jaw that adjusts to different nut sizes.
- Use: hold or turn nuts/bolts in tight places where a socket won’t fit. Set jaw tight on the nut and pull, not twist sideways.
- Pliers (slip-joint or needle-nose)
- Description: hand tool for gripping and bending.
- Use: remove small clips, hose clamps, or pull gaskets. Grip firmly and pull straight to avoid tearing parts.
- Wire brush (hand wire brush)
- Description: stiff-bristled brush, metal bristles.
- Use: clean rust and carbon deposits from the housing, lip, and sealing surfaces. Brush gently to avoid gouging.
- Clean rags or shop towels
- Description: lint-free cloths for wiping oil and dirt.
- Use: wipe surfaces clean, remove old oil and debris.
- Small container or drain pan
- Description: plastic or metal container to catch oil and debris.
- Use: collect oil from an oil-bath bowl and hold small parts while you work.
- Replacement oil (if oil-bath type) — SAE 30 or manufacturer-recommended air cleaner oil
- Description: heavier oil used in the sump of oil-bath air cleaners.
- Use: refill oil to specified level in the sump after cleaning. Pour slowly and check level.
- Vacuum or compressed air (optional but helpful)
- Description: shop vacuum or compressed air gun.
- Use: remove loose dirt from housing. If using compressed air, blow from clean side outward to avoid forcing dirt into intake; keep moderate pressure and wear eye protection.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40 or PB Blaster)
- Description: spray oil that loosens corroded bolts and parts.
- Use: apply to stuck nuts/bolts and wait a few minutes before attempting to loosen.
- Gasket sealant or replacement gasket (if applicable)
- Description: thin gasket or sealant used at the mating surface.
- Use: replace any damaged seals or apply sealant per product instructions if the housing uses a paper or rubber gasket.
- New air filter element (paper cartridge or foam/screen inner element for oil-bath)
- Description: replacement filter element specific to MF model or universal equivalent.
- Use: remove old element and install new one per orientation; ensure proper seating.
- Small funnel (for oil filling)
- Description: tapered tool to avoid spills.
- Use: pour oil into bowl without making a mess.
- Basic procedure — oil-bath and dry cartridge both covered (choose the one your tractor has)
- Remove outer cover/top
- If the housing has a wing nut or center nut on top, loosen it using the appropriate socket or adjustable wrench and lift the cover straight up.
- If clips or screws hold the cover, use the correct screwdriver or pliers to release them.
- Inspect type of cleaner
- If you see a shallow oil-filled sump (bowl) at the bottom and a metal or mesh inner element, it’s an oil-bath type.
- If you see a dry paper cartridge element (cylindrical pleated paper), treat it as a dry-type filter.
- Oil-bath air cleaner: cleaning and inspection
- Remove the top and pull out the inner element and any foam/precleaner.
- Place the bowl over your drain pan; tip it to pour the old oil into the pan through the opening or remove a drain plug if present.
- Clean the bowl with a rag and, if necessary, solvent (kerosene or mild degreaser). Dry thoroughly.
- Inspect the inner element (wire mesh and foam core); if the foam is disintegrated or the mesh bent/damaged, replace the element.
- Clean the top and sealing surfaces with a wire brush and rag. Remove old gasket material.
- Refill the bowl with new air-cleaner oil to the specified level (some models have a mark). If unclear, fill to about 1/3 to 1/2 inch above the bowl bottom as a general oil-bath level but follow the model’s manual if available.
- Reassemble inner element and top, ensuring the element seats properly and the top seals. Tighten the wing nut or fastener snugly (hand-tight plus a quarter turn); do not over-torque.
- Dry cartridge/filter type: cleaning and replacement
- Remove the cover and pull the paper cartridge straight out.
- Tap the cartridge gently to shake out loose dirt; do not attempt to blow high-pressure air through the paper from the dirty side toward the clean side — if you use compressed air, blow from the inside outward with low pressure to avoid damaging pleats.
- Inspect the paper: if dark, oily, bent, torn, or heavily clogged, replace it with a new cartridge.
- Clean the housing interior and sealing surfaces with rags; remove old gasket remnants.
- Install new cartridge oriented the same way the old one came out, ensure a tight seal, and re-secure the cover.
- How to use the tools in the procedure (practical tips)
- Ratchet/socket: fit the correct socket on the nut; pull the ratchet handle toward you in a steady motion to loosen. Reverse to tighten. Keep the socket straight on the nut to avoid rounding.
- Screwdrivers: choose a tip that fills the screw slot. Apply downward pressure while turning to avoid slipping.
- Pliers: pinch and pull clips straight out; use needle-nose for small spring clips.
- Wire brush: brush in the direction that removes grime; don’t scrape so hard that you deform the sealing face.
- Vacuum/compressed air: use low-moderate air pressure and blow from inner to outer side on paper filters; keep nozzle a few inches away.
- Parts that commonly require replacement and why
- Air filter element (paper cartridge or mesh/foam inner element)
- Why: clogged or damaged filter restricts airflow, reduces power, increases fuel consumption and engine wear. Replace if dirty, torn, oily, or after recommended service interval.
- Foam precleaner (if present)
- Why: traps larger particles. Foam degrades with age and oil — replace if crumbling or saturated and not cleanable.
- Bowl gasket or sealing ring
- Why: a damaged gasket allows unfiltered air to bypass the filter. Replace to maintain a tight seal.
- Wing nut, clamp, or fasteners
- Why: corroded or stripped fasteners can prevent proper sealing and make maintenance difficult; replace if they don’t hold tight.
- Air cleaner oil (for oil-bath type)
- Why: oil becomes dirty over time and can’t filter effectively; change the oil after cleaning the bowl.
- Entire air cleaner assembly (rare)
- Why: if the housing is severely corroded, bent, or cracked such that a proper seal can’t be achieved, replace the housing assembly.
- How to tell if replacement is needed (quick checks)
- Paper element: hold up to light — if light does not pass through pleats, replace.
- Foam: if it tears or won’t spring back when squeezed and cleaned, replace.
- Bowl oil: if oil is sludgy, dark and full of debris, replace oil after cleaning.
- Seals: visible cracks or flattened gasket = replace.
- Recommended replacement part identifiers (general guidance)
- Use OEM or reputable aftermarket filter brands. Common search terms: “Massey Ferguson MF135 air filter element” or “MF165 air cleaner element.”
- Suppliers: tractor parts dealers, online retailers (e.g., your local MF dealer, Tractor Supply, or established parts dealers). Provide tractor model and serial/year if possible to match parts.
- Typical parts: paper cartridge element, foam precleaner, bowl gasket, air cleaner oil (light engine oil or manufacturer-specified cleaner oil).
- Disposal and cleanup
- Collect used oil in a sealed container and take it to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used oil.
- Dispose of contaminated rags per local regulations (some places require them in sealed containers).
- Extra tools that might become necessary and why
- Penetrating oil
- Use if fasteners are seized from rust; lets you loosen them without breaking bolts.
- Small hammer and punch
- Use only if clips or stuck parts need gentle persuasion — tap lightly to avoid damage.
- Torque wrench (optional)
- Use if you want to tighten fasteners to exact specs; for most air cleaner covers, snug hand-tight is acceptable.
- Replacement fasteners/wing nut
- Keep a spare if the original is corroded or stripped.
- Final checklist before running engine
- Filter element installed correctly and seated flush.
- Seals/gaskets in place and clean.
- Wing nut/fasteners tightened snugly.
- For oil-bath: oil at correct sump level, no leaks.
- No tools or rags left in engine compartment.
- Quick reasons to do this maintenance
- Restores engine power and responsiveness.
- Prevents abrasive dirt entering the engine and reduces wear.
- Improves fuel efficiency and prolongs engine life.
rteeqp73
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