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Massey Ferguson MF135 MF150 MF165 tractor factory workshop and repair download manual

- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses to keep dirt and oil out of your eyes.
- Wear gloves (nitrile or mechanic’s gloves) to protect skin from oil and cleaners.
- Work with the engine off, key out, and hood supported. Allow engine to cool if it was running.
- Keep a rag/cloth and a small container for used oil/parts to avoid spills.

- Identify the air filter housing on MF135 / MF150 / MF165
- The air cleaner is mounted on the right-hand side of the engine intake. Older MF135/150/165 typically use an oil-bath type air cleaner (a round canister with a sump bowl) but some may have a dry cartridge depending on year/modifications. The housing is the round metal canister with a removable top or sump bowl.

- Tools you’ll need (detailed description and how to use each)
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Description: metal blade with a flat tip; sizes vary.
- Use: pry off clips, loosen hose clamps with slotted heads, gently separate parts. Apply steady pressure; avoid twisting that damages metal.
- Phillips screwdriver
- Description: cross-shaped tip for cross-head screws.
- Use: remove small screws on brackets or covers. Match tip size to screw head to avoid stripping.
- 1/2" or 3/8" ratchet and socket set (common metric and imperial sockets)
- Description: ratchet handle plus sockets (usually 8–19 mm and 5/16"–3/4" ranges).
- Use: remove bolts/nuts holding the air cleaner to the intake or bracket. Select socket that fits snugly; turn ratchet handle clockwise/counterclockwise to loosen/tighten.
- Adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench)
- Description: single movable jaw that adjusts to different nut sizes.
- Use: hold or turn nuts/bolts in tight places where a socket won’t fit. Set jaw tight on the nut and pull, not twist sideways.
- Pliers (slip-joint or needle-nose)
- Description: hand tool for gripping and bending.
- Use: remove small clips, hose clamps, or pull gaskets. Grip firmly and pull straight to avoid tearing parts.
- Wire brush (hand wire brush)
- Description: stiff-bristled brush, metal bristles.
- Use: clean rust and carbon deposits from the housing, lip, and sealing surfaces. Brush gently to avoid gouging.
- Clean rags or shop towels
- Description: lint-free cloths for wiping oil and dirt.
- Use: wipe surfaces clean, remove old oil and debris.
- Small container or drain pan
- Description: plastic or metal container to catch oil and debris.
- Use: collect oil from an oil-bath bowl and hold small parts while you work.
- Replacement oil (if oil-bath type) — SAE 30 or manufacturer-recommended air cleaner oil
- Description: heavier oil used in the sump of oil-bath air cleaners.
- Use: refill oil to specified level in the sump after cleaning. Pour slowly and check level.
- Vacuum or compressed air (optional but helpful)
- Description: shop vacuum or compressed air gun.
- Use: remove loose dirt from housing. If using compressed air, blow from clean side outward to avoid forcing dirt into intake; keep moderate pressure and wear eye protection.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40 or PB Blaster)
- Description: spray oil that loosens corroded bolts and parts.
- Use: apply to stuck nuts/bolts and wait a few minutes before attempting to loosen.
- Gasket sealant or replacement gasket (if applicable)
- Description: thin gasket or sealant used at the mating surface.
- Use: replace any damaged seals or apply sealant per product instructions if the housing uses a paper or rubber gasket.
- New air filter element (paper cartridge or foam/screen inner element for oil-bath)
- Description: replacement filter element specific to MF model or universal equivalent.
- Use: remove old element and install new one per orientation; ensure proper seating.
- Small funnel (for oil filling)
- Description: tapered tool to avoid spills.
- Use: pour oil into bowl without making a mess.

- Basic procedure — oil-bath and dry cartridge both covered (choose the one your tractor has)
- Remove outer cover/top
- If the housing has a wing nut or center nut on top, loosen it using the appropriate socket or adjustable wrench and lift the cover straight up.
- If clips or screws hold the cover, use the correct screwdriver or pliers to release them.
- Inspect type of cleaner
- If you see a shallow oil-filled sump (bowl) at the bottom and a metal or mesh inner element, it’s an oil-bath type.
- If you see a dry paper cartridge element (cylindrical pleated paper), treat it as a dry-type filter.
- Oil-bath air cleaner: cleaning and inspection
- Remove the top and pull out the inner element and any foam/precleaner.
- Place the bowl over your drain pan; tip it to pour the old oil into the pan through the opening or remove a drain plug if present.
- Clean the bowl with a rag and, if necessary, solvent (kerosene or mild degreaser). Dry thoroughly.
- Inspect the inner element (wire mesh and foam core); if the foam is disintegrated or the mesh bent/damaged, replace the element.
- Clean the top and sealing surfaces with a wire brush and rag. Remove old gasket material.
- Refill the bowl with new air-cleaner oil to the specified level (some models have a mark). If unclear, fill to about 1/3 to 1/2 inch above the bowl bottom as a general oil-bath level but follow the model’s manual if available.
- Reassemble inner element and top, ensuring the element seats properly and the top seals. Tighten the wing nut or fastener snugly (hand-tight plus a quarter turn); do not over-torque.
- Dry cartridge/filter type: cleaning and replacement
- Remove the cover and pull the paper cartridge straight out.
- Tap the cartridge gently to shake out loose dirt; do not attempt to blow high-pressure air through the paper from the dirty side toward the clean side — if you use compressed air, blow from the inside outward with low pressure to avoid damaging pleats.
- Inspect the paper: if dark, oily, bent, torn, or heavily clogged, replace it with a new cartridge.
- Clean the housing interior and sealing surfaces with rags; remove old gasket remnants.
- Install new cartridge oriented the same way the old one came out, ensure a tight seal, and re-secure the cover.

- How to use the tools in the procedure (practical tips)
- Ratchet/socket: fit the correct socket on the nut; pull the ratchet handle toward you in a steady motion to loosen. Reverse to tighten. Keep the socket straight on the nut to avoid rounding.
- Screwdrivers: choose a tip that fills the screw slot. Apply downward pressure while turning to avoid slipping.
- Pliers: pinch and pull clips straight out; use needle-nose for small spring clips.
- Wire brush: brush in the direction that removes grime; don’t scrape so hard that you deform the sealing face.
- Vacuum/compressed air: use low-moderate air pressure and blow from inner to outer side on paper filters; keep nozzle a few inches away.

- Parts that commonly require replacement and why
- Air filter element (paper cartridge or mesh/foam inner element)
- Why: clogged or damaged filter restricts airflow, reduces power, increases fuel consumption and engine wear. Replace if dirty, torn, oily, or after recommended service interval.
- Foam precleaner (if present)
- Why: traps larger particles. Foam degrades with age and oil — replace if crumbling or saturated and not cleanable.
- Bowl gasket or sealing ring
- Why: a damaged gasket allows unfiltered air to bypass the filter. Replace to maintain a tight seal.
- Wing nut, clamp, or fasteners
- Why: corroded or stripped fasteners can prevent proper sealing and make maintenance difficult; replace if they don’t hold tight.
- Air cleaner oil (for oil-bath type)
- Why: oil becomes dirty over time and can’t filter effectively; change the oil after cleaning the bowl.
- Entire air cleaner assembly (rare)
- Why: if the housing is severely corroded, bent, or cracked such that a proper seal can’t be achieved, replace the housing assembly.

- How to tell if replacement is needed (quick checks)
- Paper element: hold up to light — if light does not pass through pleats, replace.
- Foam: if it tears or won’t spring back when squeezed and cleaned, replace.
- Bowl oil: if oil is sludgy, dark and full of debris, replace oil after cleaning.
- Seals: visible cracks or flattened gasket = replace.

- Recommended replacement part identifiers (general guidance)
- Use OEM or reputable aftermarket filter brands. Common search terms: “Massey Ferguson MF135 air filter element” or “MF165 air cleaner element.”
- Suppliers: tractor parts dealers, online retailers (e.g., your local MF dealer, Tractor Supply, or established parts dealers). Provide tractor model and serial/year if possible to match parts.
- Typical parts: paper cartridge element, foam precleaner, bowl gasket, air cleaner oil (light engine oil or manufacturer-specified cleaner oil).

- Disposal and cleanup
- Collect used oil in a sealed container and take it to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used oil.
- Dispose of contaminated rags per local regulations (some places require them in sealed containers).

- Extra tools that might become necessary and why
- Penetrating oil
- Use if fasteners are seized from rust; lets you loosen them without breaking bolts.
- Small hammer and punch
- Use only if clips or stuck parts need gentle persuasion — tap lightly to avoid damage.
- Torque wrench (optional)
- Use if you want to tighten fasteners to exact specs; for most air cleaner covers, snug hand-tight is acceptable.
- Replacement fasteners/wing nut
- Keep a spare if the original is corroded or stripped.

- Final checklist before running engine
- Filter element installed correctly and seated flush.
- Seals/gaskets in place and clean.
- Wing nut/fasteners tightened snugly.
- For oil-bath: oil at correct sump level, no leaks.
- No tools or rags left in engine compartment.

- Quick reasons to do this maintenance
- Restores engine power and responsiveness.
- Prevents abrasive dirt entering the engine and reduces wear.
- Improves fuel efficiency and prolongs engine life.


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