Tools & supplies
- Correct brake fluid (check owner’s manual: Toyota Hilux commonly uses DOT 4; confirm before buying) — buy 1 L to be safe.
- Brake bleeder tool (one of):
- Vacuum hand pump bleeder kit (clear tubing + catch bottle) OR
- Pressure/closed-bottle bleeder (preferred for single-tech jobs) OR
- Two-person pump method (no special kit, just clear hose & bottle)
I’ll describe how each tool is used below.
- Flare-nut / line wrench (10–12 mm depending on caliper/soft line bleeder) or small open-end wrench that fits snugly.
- Socket set / breaker bar for wheels or hub nuts (if you remove wheels).
- Jack and jackstands (or ramps) — always support on stands.
- Wheel chocks.
- Clean rags, shop towels, plastic catch bottle, clear tubing to fit bleeder nipple, and a turkey baster or syringe to remove old fluid from reservoir.
- Disposable gloves, safety glasses.
- Small container for disposal of old fluid, spray bottle of water or brake-clean for cleaning spills, touch-up paint for any paint damage.

Safety & prep
1. Park on level ground, engine OFF, wheels chocked. Set parking brake.
2. Wear gloves and eye protection. Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and skin.
3. Jack and support vehicle on jackstands if you need wheel access. Never rely on the jack alone.
4. Clean around the master cylinder reservoir cap before opening to avoid contamination.
5. Keep a supply of fresh brake fluid ready and NEVER let the master cylinder reservoir run dry during the procedure — introducing air will require extra bleeding and can prolong/complicate the job.
6. Avoid spilling fluid on paint; if spilled, wipe and rinse immediately.

Basic bleed sequence
- General rule: start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, then move progressively closer. Typical sequence for many Hilux (RHD example): rear far side, rear near side, front far side, front near side. If unsure, follow “farthest -> closest” relative to the master cylinder location on your vehicle.

Step-by-step flush (pressure bleeder method — single tech, recommended)
1. Remove reservoir cap, clean around it, remove diaphragm/strainer if present. Fill reservoir to max with fresh DOT-specified fluid.
2. Attach the pressure bleeder to the reservoir per the tool instructions. Pressurize to the recommended pressure (usually 15–20 psi). DO NOT exceed 25 psi.
3. Starting with the farthest wheel bleeder, remove the rubber cap on the bleeder nipple and fit clear tubing over the nipple, with the other end in a catch bottle partially filled with fresh fluid to prevent air ingestion.
4. Crack the bleeder nipple (use the flare-nut wrench). Open the nipple while watching the fluid. Let fluid flow until it runs clear, bubble-free, and is the new fluid color. Keep an eye on reservoir level and top up from your fresh supply to prevent the reservoir running dry.
5. Close the bleeder nipple, tighten snugly (do not overtighten — tighten to manufacturer spec or roughly 8–12 Nm / 70–106 in-lb as a guideline).
6. Move to the next wheel in the sequence and repeat until all four wheels run clear and bubble-free.
7. Once complete, depressurize and remove the pressure bleeder, top the reservoir to the correct level, reinstall cap/diaphragm, and clean any spills.
8. Torque wheels if removed, lower vehicle, test pedal firmness with engine off then on. Road test at low speed, checking brakes and for leaks.

Vacuum hand pump bleeder (single tech)
- Attach clear tubing from bleeder nipple to the pump reservoir. Pump to create vacuum, then open bleed nipple and watch fluid being drawn into the pump. When clear fluid (no air) flows, close nipple, then release vacuum, remove hose, tighten. Keep reservoir topped up throughout.

Two-person / manual pump method
- Person A sits in the car and slowly depresses the brake pedal (do not pump hard; slow, consistent strokes). Person B opens the bleeder nipple briefly while the pedal is held down to let fluid/air out, then closes the nipple BEFORE pedal is released. Repeat until clear fluid/no air. Always top up reservoir between cycles. This is the traditional method but is slower and requires care to avoid running reservoir dry.

Tool usage notes
- Pressure bleeder: fills and pressurizes reservoir; you open each bleeder and fluid is pushed out under pressure. Advantage: single operator, cleaner. Follow tool manual for cap adapter seating and pressure limits.
- Vacuum pump: places vacuum at bleeder nipple; draws fluid out. Works for single operator, but may draw air if not sealed properly.
- Clear tubing + bottle: use for visual inspection. Bottle partially filled with fresh fluid prevents air re-entry.
- Flare-nut wrench: use for bleeding screw to avoid rounding off the nipple.

ABS and electronic systems
- If Hilux has ABS, flushing normally will remove most air, but trapped air in ABS modulator may require ABS cycling with a diagnostic/scan tool that can activate the pump and valves (preferred) or a sequence of pumping ABS while driving per Toyota procedure. If you get a spongy pedal that doesn’t firm up after normal bleed, an ABS bleed via scan tool is required.

Replacement parts & consumables
- Brake fluid (new) — required.
- Bleeder hoses or bleeder nipples if damaged/corroded (replace as needed).
- Master cylinder reservoir cap gasket/diaphragm if cracked.
- If lines/calipers show corrosion or leaking rubber hoses, replace those before or during the flush.
- If caliper bleed nipples round out or leak, replace nipples or caliper.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Letting the reservoir run dry — introduces air and compounds the work.
- Mixing DOT types — NEVER mix DOT 3 and DOT 4 (they are compatible chemically to an extent but performance differs and mixing is not recommended). Follow manual.
- Using old/opened fluid — brake fluid absorbs moisture; use fresh sealed fluid.
- Overtightening or rounding bleed screws — use correct wrench and torque.
- Spilling fluid on paint — bleach and damage; clean immediately.
- Not bleeding ABS module — can leave air trapped and a soft pedal.
- Not following wheel sequence — may leave air in lines far from the master cylinder.
- Not checking for leaks or damaged fittings before finishing.

Final checks
1. Ensure reservoir is at correct level and cap is secure.
2. Pump brake pedal several times with engine off, then start engine and check pedal again (should drop slightly then firm up).
3. Inspect each bleeder and line for leaks.
4. Dispose of old fluid per local regulations — do not dump it down drains.
5. Road test at slow speed; confirm brakes behave normally.

Approximate fluid amount
- A full flush generally uses ~500–1000 ml depending on model and how many times the ABS is cycled. Buy 1 L to be safe.

That’s it — flush method choice depends on tools and whether you work alone. Pressure bleeder + correct DOT fluid + careful reservoir management = fastest, cleanest result.
rteeqp73

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