1) Quick theory (one-paragraph):
Rocker arms are the lever between the cam-driven pushrod and the valve stem. The cam lifts the tappet/pushrod; the rocker pivots on a shaft or pedestals and converts that pushrod motion into valve lift. Proper valve clearance (lash) is needed so valves fully close at rest yet have room for thermal expansion. Worn rocker tips, bushes, shafts or incorrect clearance cause tappet noise, poor running, loss of compression, burned valves, oil consumption and erratic timing of valve opening. Repair/adjustment restores the correct geometry so valves open/close at the right time and amount.

2) Preparation (safety + why):
- Work on a cool or warm engine per manual (clearance depends on temperature). Why: metal expansion changes clearance—follow spec.
- Park on level ground, engage park brake, disconnect battery negative if you’ll be working near electrics. Why: safety and to avoid accidental cranking.
- Gather tools: sockets, screwdrivers, feeler gauges, spanners, torque wrench, rags, magnet/bag for pushrods. Why: to avoid dropping/losing parts and to set accurate clearance.

3) Access and inspection (in order):
- Remove rocker cover (undo bolts, lift off gasket). Why: gives access and lets you inspect oiling and condition.
- Visually inspect rockers, shaft, pedestals, pushrod ends and valve tips for wear/scoring, broken springs, sludge, metal shards. Why: tells you whether adjustment alone will help or you must replace parts.
- Check rocker shaft/pivots for axial play and rocking motion by hand. Check individual rocker movement on its pivot. Why: worn bushings/shafts produce play and wrong geometry—replacement needed.

4) Remove pushrods and rockers (only if replacing parts) — ordered:
- Mark/label pushrods or keep them in order; remove rockers or rocker shaft mounting bolts and lift the assembly. Why: pushrods wear into particular grooves; keep their positions to preserve seating.
- Withdraw pushrods, keep them straight and clean. Inspect each for wear or bending. Why: bent/uneven pushrods cause incorrect valve timing/clearance.
- Inspect bore/bushings in shaft or pedestals for wear; measure or compare to new parts. Why: worn bushings change the rocker fulcrum height and geometry.

5) Replace or refurbish parts (in order):
- Replace badly worn rocker arms, shaft or bushings with OEM or equivalent parts. If replacing individual rockers, fit them in the original order. Why: restoring original geometry ensures correct valve lift and clearance.
- Lightly lubricate pivot and contact faces with assembly lube (or engine oil for short-term). Why: ensures initial lubrication and avoids dry-start scuffing.

6) Reassemble (in order):
- Refit pushrods in the same bores and orientation; ensure they sit squarely in tappet and rocker cup. Why: a mis-seated pushrod will give wrong clearance or stick.
- Refit rocker shaft/bolts finger-tight, then torque to spec in the correct sequence. Why: correct torque keeps the shaft straight and ensures even contact; uneven clamping can bend rockers or shaft.

7) Setting valve clearance (ordered procedure + why):
- Bring the engine to the recommended temperature (or cold if manual requires). Why: clearance must be set at specified temperature.
- Rotate the engine to put a given cylinder on its compression stroke with both valves closed (usually cylinder 1 at TDC compression). Why: with the cam base circle at that cylinder, the rocker is on its lowest point and you can measure true lash.
- Use the correct feeler gauges and loosen the locknut, turn the adjuster until the specified feeler gauge slides with slight drag, then hold adjuster and tighten locknut while retaining gap. Why: you set exact clearance; the locknut keeps it fixed.
- Repeat for each valve in firing order, always measuring when that cylinder’s cam lobe is on the base circle. For a 3‑cylinder engine this is typically every 120° rotation. Why: each valve must be set when its cam lobe is not lifting it so you get the true base clearance.

8) Final checks and run-in (order):
- Recheck all adjuster locknuts for tightness. Why: movement will change clearance.
- Refit rocker cover with new gasket if needed. Why: avoids oil leaks.
- Start engine, listen for tappet noise, let it reach operating temperature, shut down and recheck clearances after a short run (some thermal settling can change lash). Why: ensures settings remain correct in real conditions.

9) How each repair action fixes common faults (concise):
- Tightening or restoring correct lash removes excessive gap that causes tappet clatter and restores the correct valve timing so compression and mixture timing improve.
- Replacing worn rocker tips or pushrods restores the contact geometry so valves reach full lift; this recovers lost power and prevents valves from not seating (which causes compression loss or burned valve faces).
- Replacing worn bushings/shaft removes play at the fulcrum; that restores consistent valve motion and prevents variable timing and noise.
- Ensuring pushrods aren’t bent and sit correctly prevents binding or incomplete valve travel, which fixes misfires or poor running.
- Correct reassembly and torquing prevents oil leaks and maintains alignment so the valve train stays within spec over time.

10) Quick troubleshooting cues (what to look for and what to do):
- Loud metallic clatter that varies with rpm: likely excessive lash or worn rocker tip. Adjust lash; replace worn parts.
- Persistent low compression on one cylinder after adjustment: check valve seating, bent pushrod, or burnt valve. Remove head if necessary.
- Excessive oil on rocker cover or chimney: worn valve guides or seals—inspect further.

Notes and cautions (short):
- Use the factory manual for exact clearances and torque values.
- Don’t over-tighten adjusters—too little clearance can hold valves open and burn them.
- Keep parts clean; debris can score cam and bushings.
- If you replace parts, run engine briefly and recheck clearances.

That covers the ordered theory and procedure and explains how each repair step remedies the symptoms.
rteeqp73

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