Tools / parts you will need
- Set of hand tools: 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets, breaker bar (18–24"), socket set (common sizes: 10, 13, 14, 15, 17 mm or 3/8–11/16" depending on tractor), open/box wrenches same sizes.
- Long-handled wrench or serpentine belt tool for tensioner (if tractor has an automatic tensioner).
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Straightedge or long metal rule for pulley alignment check.
- Tape measure or soft rule (to confirm belt length if needed).
- Clean rags, degreaser.
- Replacement belt: correct OEM or equivalent belt for your MF255/265/270/275/290 (match the code printed on the old belt or the tractor service manual). If you cannot read the old belt, measure length (circumference) and rib count/type and order matching replacement.
- Optional replacement parts: tensioner pulley, idler pulley, alternator/water‑pump pulleys or bearing kits if worn. Replacement bolts/lock washers if necessary.
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, steel‑toe boots (recommended).

Safety precautions (must do)
- Park tractor on level ground, engage parking brake, lower implements to the ground.
- Shut off engine, remove key, let engine cool fully before working near fan and pulleys.
- Block wheels to prevent movement.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when you will be working near the starter/alternator or wiring.
- Keep hands, tools and clothing clear of the fan and pulleys while testing; never run engine with covers off unless required for test and you can keep a safe distance.
- Support components if you loosen mounting bolts (alternator, compressor etc.)—don’t let them suddenly drop.

Overview of procedure
Most MF 200-series tractors use a driven V/serpentine-type belt running crankshaft → alternator → water pump/fan. The belt is tensioned either by an adjustable mount (alternator or idler) or an automatic spring tensioner depending on configuration. The steps below cover both types.

Step-by-step replacement

1. Preparation
- Ensure tractor is cool, key removed, wheels chocked, battery negative terminal disconnected.
- Clean the area so you can see pulleys and belt routing.
- Photograph or sketch belt routing if not already obvious (some tractors have routing printed under hood). This prevents routing errors on reinstallation.

2. Note belt routing and mark
- If there is no routing diagram, trace the belt path from the crankshaft around alternator, water pump, fan, and any idlers. Mark direction with chalk or take a photo.

3. Relieve belt tension and remove old belt
- If adjustable alternator/idler:
- Loosen the alternator pivot bolt and the adjustment bolt (do not remove them). Use a long wrench to rotate the alternator inward (toward engine) to slacken belt. Slide belt off a convenient pulley (usually the alternator) and carefully let alternator return to rest.
- If automatic tensioner:
- Locate tensioner pulley. Insert appropriate socket on breaker bar or serpentine tool into the tensioner square or bolt head. Rotate the tensioner in the direction specified to relieve tension (typically clockwise on most tractors; observe spring direction). Hold the tensioner and slide the belt off a pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Remove belt from all pulleys and lift out.

Tool use detail: using the breaker bar/serpentine tool
- Use a long breaker bar (12–24") for leverage. Engage square hole or bolt on the tensioner and pull smoothly — a short jolt can damage the spring. Keep fingers clear of pulley.

4. Inspect components thoroughly
- Inspect belt for glazing, cracks, missing ribs, or uneven wear—confirm replacement.
- Spin each pulley by hand (crank, water pump, alternator, idler). Look for roughness, play, grinding noise → replace pulley/bearing if present.
- Check pulley alignment with a straightedge. Misalignment causes rapid belt wear—realign or replace shims/adjustment brackets.
- Inspect fan and fan hub for wobble; water pump for leaks.

5. Replace worn parts as required
- Replace any bearinging/idler/tensioner showing play or noise. Replace the tensioner if spring is weak.
- Always fit the exact belt type (multi-rib vs V-belt). Do not substitute a V-belt for a ribbed belt.

6. Install new belt
- Route the belt over pulleys following the correct diagram. Leave the easiest-to-access pulley (usually alternator or tensioner) for last so you can apply tension.
- If using an adjustable alternator: position belt on all pulleys, then use the adjustment bolt to move the alternator outward until proper tension is achieved, then tighten pivot bolt and adjustment bolt to secure.
- If using an automatic tensioner: rotate tensioner with breaker bar, slip belt over the last pulley, slowly release tensioner so it takes up belt tension.

7. Set belt tension properly
- If adjustable system: use deflection method — press midway on the longest span with moderate thumb pressure; typical acceptable deflection is about 1/4"–1/2" (6–12 mm). Don’t over-tension; excessive tension shortens bearing life.
- If automatic tensioner: tensioner should sit with the belt centered and not bottomed out on the tensioner travel. Listen for spring binding; if belt still loose, tensioner or belt size may be incorrect.
- Note: exact tension specs vary by model and belt type; if you have the service manual use the specified tension/deflection value.

8. Final torque and checks
- Tighten alternator pivot and adjustment bolts to secure position (torque to manufacturer spec if available).
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- Spin pulleys by hand again to ensure smooth rotation and correct alignment.

9. Test run
- Start the tractor and observe belt operation at idle and slightly increased RPM. Look/listen for slippage, squeal, or wobble.
- After a short run, shut off engine and re-check belt tension and bolt tightness. New belts often stretch slightly and may need re-tensioning after initial run.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Wrong belt size/type: Always match rib count and length. Check printed code on old belt or service manual.
- Improper routing: A misrouted belt can damage components or cause it to slip off. Photo/sketch before removal.
- Over-tightening: Too much tension causes bearing failure (alternator, water pump). Use deflection method or manufacturer spec.
- Worn pulleys/tensioners left in place: New belt over worn pulley will fail prematurely; replace noisy or loose pulleys/tensioner.
- Not checking alignment: Misaligned pulleys cause edge wear and belt walking off.
- For automatic tensioners: forcing the tensioner beyond its travel or jerking it can damage the spring—use steady leverage.
- Working with hot engine or unchocked tractor: risk of burns or tractor movement—always cool and block wheels.

Replacement parts recommended whenever you replace the belt
- New correct-size belt (OEM or quality aftermarket).
- Idler pulley(s) and tensioner pulley (if grooved, noisy, or bearing play).
- Tensioner assembly if spring weak or binding.
- Fasteners if any are corroded or damaged.

Quick troubleshooting after installation
- Squeal at startup: belt too loose, glazed belt, contaminated belt (oil/grease), or pulleys misaligned.
- Belt walks off: alignment error or incorrect belt type/width.
- Rapid wear/cracking in new belt: contaminated with oil/coolant, or incorrect belt material.

Closing note
Follow the model-specific service manual for exact belt part numbers and torque/tension specs when available. If in doubt about worn bearings or tensioner condition, replace those components while the belt is off—it saves time and prevents repeated failure.

End.
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