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Nissan Navara D21 1986-97 factory workshop and repair manual download

Ordered procedure with theory — concise and practical. Follow safety: car on stands, parking brake, chock rear wheels, wear gloves/eye protection.

1) Understand the components and failure mode (theory)
- CV joints (outer usually Rzeppa; inner often tripod) transmit drive at varying steering angle and suspension travel while keeping near-constant angular velocity.
- Internal elements: races, balls/rollers, cage/trunnion, snap ring on shaft, rubber boot and grease.
- Typical failure: boot tears → grease leaks and dirt ingress → abrasive wear on balls/rollers and races → increased clearance and roughness → clicking on turns, vibration, grease contamination.
- Repair goal: restore correct geometry and lubrication, eliminate excessive play, and reseal against contamination.

2) Diagnose and confirm (theory + practical)
- Symptom correlation: clicking on full lock = outer CV; vibration under acceleration or axial clunk = inner/tripod or worn shaft.
- Inspect boot for grease fling and tears; check for play by rotating/angling shaft by hand.
- Theory: visual grease or ragged boot almost always means replacement; symptoms confirm which joint is at fault.

3) Prepare removal (theory)
- Loosen axle nut before lifting (wheel bearing preload prevents hub movement).
- Remove wheel. Remove cotter pin and castellated nut if present.
- Theory: axle nut holds the driveshaft into the hub/lug; loosening while wheel on prevents hub turning and keeps suspension stable.

4) Disconnect suspension/hub components to free the axle (order + why)
- Remove lower ball joint or unbolt lower control arm as needed, and/or separate tie rod end to allow hub to swing out.
- Use a ball joint separator or press; avoid striking through hub bearing.
- Theory: the hub/knuckle must move enough to allow the axle splines to slide out; this avoids damaging the hub bearing when extracting the shaft.

5) Free the CV from the hub
- Push or pry the axle out of the hub; tap the end of the shaft with a soft mallet if needed (not heavy blows to the splines).
- If stuck, back off hub flange bolts slightly and tap hub to release.
- Theory: outer CV engages splines in hub; freeing it lets you pull the shaft out of the hub without disturbing transmission.

6) Detach the inner end from gearbox/transmission
- On the trans side there is usually a circlip on the shaft. Pry the shaft out of the transmission/transfer case; support the joint to avoid pulling the inner shaft hard.
- Theory: the circlip holds the shaft axially; when it clears, the shaft slides free. Beware of oil seal — minimal fluid may leak; use a drain pan.

7) Inspect shaft, hub, and seal (theory)
- Check splines, shaft for wear, stub axle bore, hub bearing play, and gearbox seal. Replace if splines are damaged or seal is leaking.
- Theory: replacing only the CV joint won’t solve worn splines or a leaking trans seal; these create repeat failures or driveline vibration.

8) Decide repair method (replace joint vs entire half-shaft)
- If shaft and splines are good and joint type allows, you can replace just the CV joint or boot kit. If inner tripod or shaft is worn, replace full axle assembly.
- Theory: press-fit or riveted joints may be non-serviceable; many prefer full axle swap for reliability.

9) Remove old joint/boot (order + how)
- Cut off old clamps and slide boot away. Remove circlip/retaining ring and slide joint off shaft. For tripod joints, remove circlips on trunnion.
- Theory: careful disassembly avoids damaging shaft or losing small parts; note orientation and order of washers, clips.

10) Clean and inspect internal parts (theory)
- Clean shaft and mating surfaces. Inspect races and trunnion for pitting, scoring, or heat discoloration.
- Theory: pitted races indicate metal fatigue; new grease won't fix worn surface roughness or play.

11) Fit replacement joint/boot (order + technique)
- If installing a new joint, seat the circlip fully into the shaft groove so joint cannot slide off. Ensure correct orientation.
- For a boot-only replacement: pack joint with manufacturer-specified CV grease, fully fill pocket but do not overpack, slide boot over, and position correctly.
- Use correct clamps (ear clamps/crimp-style or screw-type per kit) and crimp/collar tool to secure.
- Theory: correct seating of circlip and clamp integrity retain grease and prevent axial movement; improper seating allows joint separation or grease loss.

12) Grease: type and packing (theory)
- Use lithium-complex or OEM-specified moly/soap-based CV joint grease. Pack grease into all race cavities and onto balls/trunnion.
- Theory: correct grease viscosity and quantity maintain hydrodynamic lubrication under load and minimize metal-to-metal contact.

13) Reassemble shaft into transmission and hub (order)
- Slide inner end into transmission until circlip engages (you’ll feel/hear it snap). Guide outer splines into hub while aligning hub and suspension, then reattach hub nut/retainer loose at first.
- Reconnect and torque suspension components to spec.
- Theory: circlip engagement secures axial position; hub engagement seats splines for torque transfer. Reassembly order prevents binding and ensures proper preloads.

14) Torque and final tightening (critical)
- Torque axle nut to factory specification (use service manual value). Torque ball joints, control arm bolts, and wheel nuts to spec. Replace axle nut if single-use.
- Theory: correct torque on the axle nut often sets the bearing preload; under/over torque causes bearing damage or play.

15) Check seals and test
- Ensure boot clamps sealed, no grease leakage. Lower vehicle, road-test with full-lock turns and accelerations to verify no clicking, vibration, or leaks.
- Theory: road-test under operating load confirms restoration of constant velocity behavior and retention of lubrication.

16) How the repair fixes the fault (brief theory)
- Replacing the joint/boot removes the worn bearing surfaces and restores proper clearances and smooth race/ball contact, eliminating irregular motion (clicking/vibration).
- Proper grease and a sealed boot re-establish lubrication and contamination protection, preventing abrasive wear.
- Correct seating (circlip/splines) and torque ensure axial retention and correct transfer of drive torque without play.
- If underlying damage (splines, hub bearing, seal) is also addressed, the driveline stops transmitting abnormal forces that cause repeat failures.

17) Common pitfalls to avoid
- Reuse a torn boot or wrong grease; under-crimping clamps; not seating circlip fully; hammering the shaft through the hub (damages bearings); ignoring hub or transmission seal condition.
- Theory: any remaining contamination, worn mating parts, or improper assembly leads to premature failure.

Done.
rteeqp73

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