- Safety first (short and direct)
- Work in a well-ventilated area, engine cold, parking brake on, keys out of ignition.
- Wear safety goggles and nitrile gloves to protect eyes and skin from cleaner and grime.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on sensors or electrical connectors to avoid short circuits and accidental cranking.

- What "throttle body" work covers (brief)
- Clean: remove carbon and dirt from the throttle plate and bore to restore smooth airflow and idle.
- Inspect/adjust: check throttle plate movement and linkage for binding; check throttle position sensor (TPS) for secure mounting.
- Replace: swap the throttle body, idle air control (IAC) valve, or TPS if damaged or faulty. Some modern trucks use an electronic throttle (drive-by-wire) that must be handled carefully.

- Basic tools you already have (describe each and how to use)
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Use to loosen hose clamps, gently pry electrical clips or split plastic connectors if needed.
- Insert under clamp screw head and turn; use the blade to lever connectors carefully without breaking plastic.
- Phillips-head screwdriver
- Use for screws on airbox or smaller hose clamps; hold driver straight to avoid stripping heads.
- Adjustable wrench (crescent)
- Use to hold or turn bolts/nuts when a socket won’t fit; set the jaw to snug, pull the wrench toward you to minimize slipping.
- Pair of pliers (slip-joint or needle-nose)
- Use to pinch spring clamps, remove small clips, and grip hoses; use needle-nose for reaching tight spots.
- Clean shop rags or paper towels
- Wipe grime and excess cleaner; stuff a rag in the intake behind the throttle plate during cleaning to prevent debris entering the engine.
- Flashlight or work light
- Illuminate the throttle body area so you can see seals, sensors, and carbon build-up.

- Additional tools you will likely need (why required and how to use)
- Socket set with ratchet (metric sizes, 8–14 mm commonly)
- Required to remove bolts holding the throttle body or air intake tube. Use the correct socket size, keep socket extension if bolts are recessed. Turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten; use a torque wrench for final tightening if specified.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Ensures throttle body bolts/gasket fasteners are tightened to the manufacturer torque spec to avoid warping or leaks. Set to the specified Nm and tighten in sequence.
- Throttle body cleaner (aerosol)
- Chemical specifically formulated to dissolve carbon deposits without damaging sensors. Spray on throttle plate and bore, let soak briefly, wipe away with a rag. Do not use carburetor cleaner on electronic components or painted surfaces.
- Small brush or toothbrush (nylon)
- Agitate and remove stubborn carbon; nylon bristles avoid scratching aluminum surfaces.
- Replacement gasket or silicone sealant
- The throttle body-to-intake gasket often needs replacement any time the throttle body is removed to prevent vacuum leaks. Use a new gasket sized for your engine or OEM part.
- Multi-meter (digital)
- Test TPS and electrical connectors for proper voltages/resistance if symptoms persist. Set to voltage or resistance, backprobe connector with ignition on (engine off) following sensor pinout.
- OBD-II scanner or dealer-level scan tool (if truck has electronic throttle control)
- Required to clear throttle adaptive values or perform throttle relearn on drive-by-wire systems. Some ECUs will limit engine operation if errors exist until relearn is done.

- Step-by-step procedure (bullet points only)
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to remove power from sensors and prevent accidental starting.
- Locate the air intake tube from airbox to throttle body; follow intake hose from air filter housing to where it meets the throttle housing.
- Remove the intake hose clamps using a flat-head screwdriver or socket; pull off the hose and set aside.
- Unplug electrical connectors from the throttle body, TPS, and IAC (if present); depress the plastic tab on each connector and pull straight off.
- Remove any vacuum lines attached to the throttle body; mark or note their positions (a photo on your phone helps).
- Unbolt the throttle body from the intake manifold using appropriate socket/ratchet; keep bolts and note their locations. Lift throttle body away.
- Inspect mating surfaces and remove old gasket. Clean the intake manifold surface with a rag; ensure no debris falls into the manifold. If debris could fall in, cover the intake port with a clean rag.
- Inspect the throttle plate and bore. If dirty, spray throttle body cleaner on the plate and inside bore, let soak, scrub with nylon brush, wipe with rag until clean. Manually move the throttle plate to clean both sides; don’t force or bend linkage.
- If an IAC valve or idle control passage is present, clean passages per cleaner instructions and ensure movement is free. If heavily corroded or inoperative, plan to replace the component.
- Check throttle plate movement for smooth, full travel and no excessive play in the shaft. Check rubber seals and linkages for wear or damage.
- Install a new gasket on the throttle body flange. Reposition throttle body to intake and hand-start bolts; torque to manufacturer spec in a criss-cross pattern if possible.
- Reconnect vacuum lines and electrical connectors firmly until they click. Reinstall intake hose and tighten clamps.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- If the vehicle has drive-by-wire or an IAC/TPS, perform an ECU relearn:
- If you have a scan tool, follow manufacturer relearn procedure to reset throttle adaptation.
- If no scan tool, many vehicles require an idle relearn: start engine (may idle rough), let warm up to normal temp, with accessories off allow a few minutes of stable idle, then cycle ignition off/on or follow a specified key/idle sequence in service manual. If unsure, use a scan tool or expect a dealer/shop to do the relearn.
- Check for vacuum leaks and listen for smooth idle. Test drive to confirm recovery of performance and idle stability.

- How to use the throttle body cleaner safely and effectively
- Shake can per instructions, spray directly on the plate and bore while the throttle plate is held open slightly by hand or with a screwdriver tip (do not leave screwdriver in place while starting).
- Let dissolve for 20–30 seconds, brush lightly, then wipe with clean rag. Repeat until clean.
- Avoid spraying electronics, connector pins, or sensors directly; keep cleaner away from painted surfaces and rubber not compatible with the solvent.

- When replacement is required, why, and what to replace
- Throttle body replacement reasons
- Severe carbon build-up that cannot be cleaned.
- Throttle plate or bore damaged, scored, or warped.
- Electronic throttle motor failure or internal electronics fault (error codes P0120–P0124 for TPS or P2100–P2106 for electronic throttle).
- Excessive shaft play or worn bearings causing poor sealing.
- IAC (idle air control) replacement reasons
- Poor idle control, stalling at idle, or inability to reach stable idle after cleaning.
- IAC valves can clog or fail electrically.
- TPS (throttle position sensor) replacement reasons
- Erratic throttle response, surging idle, check engine light with TPS-related codes.
- TPS is inexpensive and often replaced when readings are out of spec.
- Replacement parts to source
- Throttle body assembly (OEM part number for your engine variant; bring old unit to parts store or match by VIN).
- Throttle body-to-intake gasket (replace whenever throttle body removed).
- IAC valve (if separate) and TPS (if serviceable separately).
- If drive-by-wire, you may replace the entire electronic throttle body assembly (often sold as a complete unit).
- How to choose parts
- Match VIN, engine code, or bring original part for comparison. Use OEM or high-quality aftermarket parts; cheap copies can fail quickly, especially for electronic throttle bodies.

- Troubleshooting brief (common issues after service)
- Rough idle after cleaning: check for vacuum leaks, ensure connectors plugged, perform throttle relearn.
- Check engine light returns: read codes with OBD-II scanner to identify TPS/IAC/ETC faults.
- Persistent surging or lack of power: inspect air intake for leaks, ensure gasket seating and bolt torque correct.

- Final tips for a beginner
- Keep the work area organized; lay bolts in a cloth in the order removed or take photos.
- Use a new gasket every time the throttle body is removed to avoid vacuum leaks.
- If the truck uses an electronic throttle, consider borrowing or buying a basic OBD-II scanner with live data to confirm TPS readings and clear codes after work.
- If unsure about electrical relearn steps for your exact model, have a shop perform the relearn to avoid limp-mode issues.

- If you need parts or tools and why (concise)
- Throttle body cleaner: required to remove carbon—regular solvent damages sensors.
- New gasket: required to prevent vacuum leaks after removal.
- Socket set and torque wrench: required to remove/install bolts and ensure correct torque.
- OBD-II scanner (or dealer tool): required for throttle relearn on electronic throttle systems and to diagnose persistent codes.
- Replacement throttle body, IAC, or TPS: required only if cleaning/inspection shows damage or electrical faults; bring the old part to match the exact replacement.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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