Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies needed
- Workshop manual for your model/year (for torque specs, diagrams, clearances).
- Metric socket set, extensions, wrenches.
- Torque wrench (up to ~200 Nm, plus smaller range).
- Transmission jack or sturdy floor jack + wood blocks; engine support bar or engine hoist (if needed).
- Floor stands (jack stands), wheel chocks.
- Screwdrivers, pry bars, rubber mallet, dead-blow hammer.
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers (internal & external).
- Bearing puller / gear puller and bearing installer / seal driver set.
- Punches/drifts and roll pin punches.
- Feeler gauges and/or dial indicator (for endplay measurement).
- Soft brass drift or nylon drift for locating forks/shafts.
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner, lint‑free rags, assembly lube.
- New transmission fluid, new gearbox gaskets/seals, new circlips.
- Replacement shift forks (OEM part numbers recommended), optionally new synchro rings, bearings, seals, selector rail if worn.
- Magnetic tray, sharpie/paint marker to mark parts, plastic bags & labels.
- Safety gear: eye protection, gloves.

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels and use rated jack stands — never rely on a jack only.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Support the engine if bellhousing removal alters engine support.
- Drain gearbox fluid before removing to reduce spills.
- Keep parts clean and free of dirt; contamination damages synchronizers/bearings.
- Use proper lifting equipment for the transmission — it’s heavy and awkward.
- If you’re unsure about any step, stop and consult the factory manual or a shop.

Overview / common pitfalls up front
- Replace both the fork and inspect/replace the matching synchronizer assembly or rail if worn. Worn synchros, rails, or shafts will destroy new forks quickly.
- Mark and photograph everything during disassembly — forks must index to the correct gears and rails.
- Don’t reuse circlips or damaged seals. Reuse of old circlips or improper installation causes catastrophic failures.
- Pay attention to endplay/clearances when reassembling; missing shims or incorrect torque can cause gear engagement issues.
- Avoid hammering on hardened surfaces; use appropriate pullers and drivers.

Step-by-step procedure (general manual transmission layout)
Note: This is a generic, shop-level procedure for Isuzu D‑Max manual boxes. Follow your model’s service manual for exact bolt locations, torque values, and internal layout.

1) Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground, chock rear wheels, lift front and support on jack stands or lift.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Remove engine splash shields as needed and disconnect shift linkage at the gearbox.
- Drain transmission fluid into a drain pan.

2) Remove drivetrain components to free gearbox
- Remove propshaft/driveshaft(s) and mark orientation if required.
- Remove starter, release/undo clutch slave cylinder or disconnect hydraulic line and support it (do not stretch).
- Support engine/transmission with transmission jack and/or engine support bar. Remove any crossmembers as necessary.
- Unbolt gearbox from bellhousing and separate gearbox from engine. Lower gearbox with proper support.

How the tools are used: transmission jack supports weight; engine support prevents engine tilt when gearbox removed.

3) Strip gearbox to access shift forks (bench work)
- Secure gearbox on bench in a transmission cradle or padded vise.
- Remove tail housing/extension housing bolts and carefully separate housings (pry evenly; use a rubber mallet, watch dowels).
- Remove selector cover and selector housing to expose selector rails if not already exposed.
- Mark positions of selector forks, rails and any shims/locking tabs. Take photos.

Tools: soft drift or screwdriver to lift housings, paint marker for marking.

4) Remove shafts and gear clusters
- Remove snap rings retaining bearing/shafts (use snap‑ring pliers) and withdraw mainshaft and layshaft assembly as required per manual.
- As you remove gear clusters, keep them in order and mark orientation. Place circlips and thrust washers into labeled bags.

Tools: snap‑ring pliers, bearing/gear puller if needed.

5) Remove shift forks
- With rails and shafts accessible, withdraw selector shafts/rails so shift forks can slide off their slide rails.
- Note that some forks are located on shafts via roll pins or circlips. Use appropriate drift or snap‑ring pliers to remove.
- Remove forks carefully; do not distort fork toes or tips.

How the tools are used: Use snap-ring pliers to remove retaining clips; soft brass drift to drive out roll pins; use a nylon drift to avoid marring fork rails.

6) Inspect components (do not skip)
- Inspect fork contact faces and tips for wear, scalloping or rounded edges. Measure wear against OEM limits.
- Inspect selector rails/shafts for scoring or flat spots. If rails are worn, the new forks will fail quickly — replace rails/shafts if beyond limits.
- Check synchronizer rings, keys, hub splines, and bearings for wear. Replace if damaged.
- Replace all seals and gaskets whenever the gearbox is opened.

Common pitfall: Installing new forks onto a worn selector rail yields poor shift action and immediate re-failure.

7) Fit replacement shift forks
- Clean everything thoroughly with parts cleaner and apply a light coat of appropriate assembly lube on rails and fork contact surfaces only.
- Fit the replacement fork onto the correct gear location — forks are usually unique (1–2, 3–4, reverse). Match the fork orientation exactly.
- Reinstall selector rails/shafts and secure with the correct snap rings/roll pins. Make sure fork toes engage the correct synchronizer hubs/keys.
- Ensure the forks move smoothly on the rails and that hubs slide fully through the selected gear positions.

How the tool is used: use a nylon drift to align fork bosses while sliding the rail; snap-ring pliers to install circlips; torque wrench for any retaining bolts.

8) Reassemble shafts and housings
- Reinstall mainshaft/layshaft assemblies, gears, circlips, thrust washers in reverse order. Replace any circlips that were removed.
- Measure axial endplay on shafts per manual using feeler gauge/dial indicator; fit shims as required.
- Replace gearbox housing gasket or apply sealant per manual, mate housings, and torque bolts to spec.

Tools used: dial indicator to measure endplay; torque wrench to tighten housing bolts per spec.

9) Reinstall gearbox on vehicle
- Raise and align gearbox to engine using transmission jack. Ensure dowel alignment and that input shaft engages clutch splines smoothly.
- Torque bellhousing bolts to spec and reconnect crossmember, driveshafts, linkage, clutch slave lines, starter etc.
- Refill gearbox with specified fluid to the correct level and type (check manual).

10) Final checks & road test
- With vehicle safely lowered, check for leaks, check shift lever operation with engine off, then start engine and test shifting through all gears with parking brake engaged.
- Short road test at low speed to confirm proper engagement; then full test and re-check fluid level.
- Re-check torque on accessible fasteners after first test drive.

Replacement parts typically required
- Specific shift fork(s) (OEM recommended).
- Selector rail/shafts if worn.
- Synchronizer rings or hubs if worn (highly recommended to inspect and replace if any wear).
- Mainshaft/layshaft bearings or seals if removed or worn.
- Full set of circlips/snap rings, gaskets, and seals.
- Transmission fluid.
- Optional: new shift lever bushings/linkage if worn.

Final notes / quick reminders
- Keep everything clean and well-lubed during reassembly.
- Do not reuse bent or worn forks, circlips, or seals.
- If you find heavy wear to rails, shafts, or synchros, consider a rebuild kit or replacing the entire gearset — cheap forks alone may be a temporary fix.
- Follow torque and clearance specs from the service manual precisely — incorrect clearances are the common cause of rework.

Estimated labor: Expect multiple hours to a full day in a well-equipped shop for the experienced tech; more time if additional drivetrain components must be removed or if heavy internal wear is found.

Done.
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