- Quick overview
- You are replacing/sealing the transmission input area on a Jeep with an NSG370 6-speed gearbox. Common work here is replacing the front input shaft seal (front transmission seal at the bellhousing) and/or replacing any case gasket or sealant where the two halves meet. This job typically requires removing the transmission from the vehicle. Follow all safety work practices—this is moderately difficult for a beginner.

- Main decisions (what you might actually be doing)
- Replace input (front) shaft seal: do this if gear oil leaks where the transmission meets the engine or down the bellhousing area. This usually requires removing the trans far enough to access the seal or removing the trans entirely.
- Replace case gasket/sealant between NG370 housing halves: do this only if the case halves leak (very uncommon unless damaged or previously opened).
- If you only have a small front leak and the seal is accessible with the transmission in-place on your model, you may be able to pull the seal without full removal — check vehicle-specific service manual for access. Most jobs will require transmission removal on the NSG370.

- Required parts (what to buy and why)
- Front input shaft seal (OEM or high-quality aftermarket): this is the seal that prevents gear oil leaking at the input shaft. Replace if leaking or whenever you split the bellhousing from the trans.
- Transmission fluid (correct spec for NSG370; typically manual transmission gear oil — check your Jeep owner’s manual or service manual): required to refill after reinstallation.
- Gasket or non-hardening RTV sealant for case mating surfaces (if case is to be split or if OEM uses RTV): buy exact type specified (sensor-safe, manual-trans spec).
- Transmission mount(s) and bolts (inspect; replace if damaged or degraded): worn mounts cause misalignment and leaks.
- Optional replacement parts to inspect and consider replacing while trans is out: clutch release bearing, pilot bearing, clutch disc/pressure plate (if disturbed or if mileage/wear justifies replacement).
- Threadlocker (blue medium-strength) for bolts if service manual calls for it.

- Basic tools (for a beginner with descriptions and how to use them)
- Socket set (metric, 3/8" and 1/2" drive): contains sockets and ratchets of assorted sizes. Use to remove bolts and fasteners. Choose correct socket size, seat it fully, and pull steady—avoid rounded bolts.
- Ratchets and extensions (3/8" and 1/2"): allow reaching bolts in tight spots. Use extensions to reach deep bellhousing bolts.
- Combination wrench set (metric): open-end and box-end wrenches for bolts where sockets can’t reach. Box end grips flats; open end for tight spaces.
- Torque wrench (in-lb to 150 ft-lb range or 10–150 ft-lb): required to tighten bolts to factory specs. Set the required torque and apply slowly until it clicks; do not use a cheater bar on torque wrenches.
- Jack (floor jack) and jack stands (capacity rated for vehicle weight): use the jack to raise the vehicle and jack stands to support it safely. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Transmission jack or stable floor jack with a wood block and strap (preferred: transmission jack): supports the transmission during removal/installation. Use a transmission jack to center the trans, keep it stable, and lower/raise safely. A regular floor jack can be used in a pinch but is more dangerous and harder to control—use wide block and strap the trans.
- Wheel chocks: block wheels left on ground to prevent rolling. Place behind rear wheels if lifting front, or in front of front wheels if lifting rear.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): for prying small components, removing clamps or connectors. Use a thin flatdriver to pry seals carefully.
- Seal puller or small flat pry tool: used to pry out the old seal without damaging the case. Work carefully around the lip.
- Rubber mallet or small soft-faced hammer: to tap seals evenly into place without damaging them.
- Brass drift set or wood dowel: to drive in new seals squarely without metal-on-rubber damage—use a drift slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the seal.
- Pry bars (various sizes): to separate transmission from engine or to gently maneuver components. Use gently to avoid damaging mating surfaces.
- Gasket scraper / razor blade / plastic scraper: remove old gasket material and sealant from mating surfaces. Use plastic scraper where possible to avoid gouging aluminum.
- Brake parts cleaner or parts solvent and rags: cleans surfaces before installing new seal/gasket. Solvents remove oil so new seal adheres and seats properly.
- Drain pan and clean containers: to catch drained transmission fluid and store it if needed.
- Fluid transfer pump (hand pump) or funnel with long neck: to refill transmission through fill hole once installed. Many manual transmissions are filled through a side fill plug.
- Gloves and eye protection: protect hands and eyes from fluid and debris.
- Shop light / creeper: improves visibility and comfort working underneath the vehicle.
- Impact driver (optional, not required): speeds up bolt removal but use sockets carefully—not required for a beginner.

- Extra/optional but strongly recommended tools and why
- Clutch alignment tool (if you remove the clutch): centers the clutch disc for reinstallation. If you remove the transmission and disturb the clutch, this is required to reinstall properly.
- Service manual or factory repair manual (specific to your Jeep model/year): gives correct torque specs, bolt sequences, fluid type and capacity, and removal procedures unique to the NSG370. Essential for safety and correctness.
- Engine support bar or hoist (if removing engine/trans together or supporting engine when trans removed): prevents engine sag if you remove engine-to-trans mounts.
- Magnetic pickup and flashlight: retrieving dropped bolts and improving visibility.
- Seal driver kit: simplifies installing seals without causing damage.

- Why extra tools are required
- Transmission jacks and engine supports are required to safely support and align heavy components. The NSG370 is heavy and awkward; attempting removal without proper support risks injury and damage.
- Torque wrench and service manual are required to correctly tighten bolts. Over- or under-torqued bolts cause leaks, misalignment, or bolt failure.
- Seal pullers and drivers prevent damage to the case or new seal; improper removal/installation can enlarge the bore, causing new leaks.

- Step-by-step procedure (high-level, but covering the necessary actions you’ll do)
- Prepare vehicle: park on level surface, set parking brake, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Raise and support vehicle: lift car with floor jack at proper jacking point, support on jack stands rated for vehicle weight and placed under designated support points.
- Drain transmission fluid: place drain pan under transmission, remove drain/fill plug (if present) and allow fluid to drain. Dispose of used fluid properly.
- Remove driveshaft(s)/axles: depending on model (4x2 or 4x4), remove rear/front drive components as needed to free the transmission.
- Disconnect electrical connectors, speedometer cable/sensor, shift linkage, clutch slave cylinder/throwout bearing linkage (if hydraulic lines, support and cap to prevent contamination), starter motor, and any brackets attached to transmission.
- Support transmission with transmission jack: secure the transmission to the jack using straps. Support engine if engine mounts are being removed or if engine will sag when trans is unbolted.
- Remove bellhousing bolts and crossmember/transmission mount(s): remove bolts in appropriate sequence as per manual. Slowly lower and withdraw transmission from the engine, ensuring nothing else is holding it.
- Access and remove the old input seal: once the bellhousing/input area is exposed, clean around the seal, use a seal puller or carefully pry out the old seal. Take care not to scratch or deform the bore.
- Prepare new seal and install: clean the bore with solvent and a lint-free rag. Lightly lubricate the inner lip of the new seal with clean transmission oil. Place new seal squarely over the bore and use a seal driver, brass drift, or a suitably sized socket to tap it in evenly until flush with or slightly below the housing surface per manual spec.
- Inspect pilot bearing/clutch components: while trans is out, inspect the clutch, pilot bearing, throwout bearing and replace if worn. Replace the pilot bearing if noisy or upset; replace clutch if slipping or if you’ve exceeded service life.
- Reassemble: align transmission input shaft with clutch (use a clutch alignment tool if reinstalled) and raise transmission carefully on the jack to mate with the engine. Start bellhousing bolts by hand to ensure proper alignment, then torque bolts to factory specs in the sequence listed in the service manual.
- Reinstall crossmember, mount(s), driveshaft/axles, reconnect wiring, lines, starter, shift linkage, and any removed components.
- Refill transmission: use the correct fluid and fill to the specified level through the fill hole. Many manuals specify a fill until fluid drips out the fill hole with the vehicle level and/or with the engine at idle—follow your service manual.
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery, test for leaks and proper shifting: start engine, run through gears with brake held, check for leaks around new seal, re-torque mount bolts after a short drive if specified.

- Typical torque and fluid points (general - verify with service manual)
- Bellhousing bolts: specific torque varies by model—consult manual (typical range 30–70 ft-lb depending on bolt). Use specified pattern.
- Transmission fill amount and fluid spec: check Jeep service manual for NSG370; use specified manual trans oil (e.g., certain GL-4 gear oil or equivalent—check exact spec by year/model).

- When replacement parts are required and why
- Replace the front input seal if it shows any sign of leaking, torn lip, or hardening. A worn seal will let gear oil escape and contaminate clutch and bellhousing.
- Replace transmission fluid if leaking or contaminated. Old/low fluid can damage gears and bearings.
- Replace clutch components (release bearing, pilot bearing, disc, pressure plate) if the transmission is removed and they show wear, noise, or slippage—since access is available and labor overlaps, replacing worn clutch parts now saves labor later.
- Replace mounts or crossmembers if cracked or excessively worn to ensure correct alignment and reduce movement that causes seal failure.

- Common beginner pitfalls and brief solutions
- Not supporting the engine: can cause engine to sag and damage mounts or wiring—use an engine support bar or at minimum secure the engine before removing large mounts.
- Damaging the seal bore during removal or installation: use the correct puller and a seal driver, not a screwdriver or improvised tool.
- Reusing a damaged or old seal: always replace a leaking seal rather than trying to reinstall an old one.
- Skipping torque specs: causes leaks, warped surfaces, or broken bolts—use a torque wrench and the factory specs.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces: old oil/grease prevents seal seating—clean thoroughly.

- Safety and disposal
- Always use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; gear oil is slippery and can be hazardous on skin.
- Dispose of used transmission fluid and contaminated rags according to local regulations (auto parts stores often accept used fluid).

- Final note (practical recommendation)
- This is a moderate-to-advanced job for a complete beginner because transmission removal and reinstallation require proper lifting/support tools and precise alignment. If you lack a transmission jack, service manual, or confidence with heavy components, consider having a shop do the removal and replace the seal while showing you the process or do the reinstallation for you.

- Quick checklist to buy before starting
- Front input shaft seal(s)
- Correct transmission fluid
- Socket set, torque wrench, jack + jack stands, transmission jack (or plan for a shop to supply)
- Seal puller and seal driver (or brass drift + wood dowel)
- RTV/gasket material if required, threadlocker, cleaning solvent, rags
- Gloves, eye protection, drain pan, pump/funnel

End of instructions.
rteeqp73

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