Tools & PPE
- Floor jack, quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight), wheel chocks
- Torque wrench (0–250 ft·lb range), breaker bar, 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets and extensions
- Metric socket set and combination wrenches (including long sockets for axle nut)
- Impact wrench (optional, speeds work)
- Ball‑joint separator / tie‑rod end puller / pickle fork
- Hub puller / 3‑jaw puller or slide hammer with hub adapter
- Press or bearing removal tool (for pressed‑in wheel bearings) or replacement hub assembly
- Punch, drift, small hammer, dead‑blow hammer
- Pry bar, pliers, snap‑ring/circlip pliers
- Torque angle gauge (if required)
- Penetrating oil, brake cleaner, anti‑seize, grease
- Drain pan, rags
- New cotter pins, new axle nut if damaged, replacement knuckle or knuckle rebuild kit, new wheel bearings or hub assembly, new ball joints/tie‑rod ends if worn
- Service manual or OEM torque chart (highly recommended)

Safety precautions
- Work on level surface. Chock wheels diagonally opposite the wheel you’re working on. Engage parking brake.
- Lift vehicle with jack, support on properly rated jack stands—never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep bystanders clear.
- Support the hub/steering knuckle and/or CV axle before separating joints to prevent sudden drops that can damage boots or the transmission tailshaft.
- If inner CV must be withdrawn from the transmission, be prepared for gear oil to weep; have catch pan and replacement fluid. If transmission fluid will be lost, disconnect and re‑seal per manual or avoid pulling shaft too far out.
- If rusted fasteners require heat, follow fire safety and protect rubber lines/sensors.

Overview / parts required
- Replacement knuckle (OEM or aftermarket) or knuckle rebuild kit.
- Wheel bearing/hub assembly or bearing & race if serviceable design. Many modern knuckles use pressed‑in bearing or bolt‑on hub assembly—replace as assembly if pressed bearing is fused.
- New ball joints and tie‑rod end(s) if worn; cotter pins, axle nut, hub flange bolts as needed.
- New wheel studs if damaged.

Step‑by‑step procedure (typical front knuckle removal & replacement)
1) Preparation
- Park, chock, set parking brake, loosen lug nuts slightly.
- Raise vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove wheel.

2) Remove brake components
- Remove caliper (unbolt guide pins). Hang caliper with wire or bungee—don’t let it hang on brake hose.
- Remove brake rotor. If stuck, use penetrating oil and gentle tapping; use a screw if rotor has retaining screw.

3) Disconnect ABS/parking brake/sensors
- Unplug ABS sensor and remove sensor from knuckle. Remove parking brake cable bracket if attached. Label connectors.

4) Separate tie rod end
- Remove cotter pin and nut on outer tie rod end. Use tie‑rod puller or pickle fork to separate from knuckle. Don’t strike the steering arm directly with heavy hammer repeatedly (it can damage seals).

5) Separate sway bar end link (if attached to knuckle)
- Remove nut and separate link from knuckle.

6) Separate lower control arm / ball joint(s)
- For a strut‑type or MacPherson knuckle: remove lower ball joint pinch bolt or nut. Use ball‑joint separator or puller to separate. Support control arm with a jack if needed so suspension droops enough to remove knuckle.
- For upper ball joint (if applicable): remove nut, separate, and support the assembly so the strut doesn’t drop.

Pitfall: forcing ball joints apart with pickle fork can ruin boots; use proper puller.

7) Remove hub/axle from knuckle
- If vehicle uses a bolt‑on hub assembly: remove hub retaining bolts from back of knuckle and pull hub assembly out. Use puller/slide hammer if seized.
- If hub bearing is pressed into knuckle: press bearing/hub assembly out with a press or specialized bearing puller. If you’re replacing the entire hub assembly, use the hub assembly removal method.
- If halfshaft is splined through hub: remove axle nut (impact or breaker bar). Secure hub from rotating and break spline free. With axle nut removed, push hub out slightly and then use slide hammer or carefully pry to free hub from knuckle; support inner CV so it doesn’t yank transmission.
- If inner CV must be withdrawn from trans: use a pry bar at the trans seal just enough to unseat the halfshaft and pull it out until out of the hub splines. Be ready with catch pan and plug trans opening or cap shaft to reduce fluid loss. Note: some NSG370 setups will let the shaft pop out a short amount; consult service manual.

Tool details: Use a hub puller sized to the bearing/hub—attach puller to hub flange bolts and turn center forcing screw to draw hub out. Slide hammer with hub adapter can shock the hub out when stuck. If bearing is pressed, use hydraulic press and correct driver to press straight out—apply penetrating oil and heat to knuckle sparingly if necessary.

8) Remove knuckle from vehicle
- After hub/axle and ball joints separated, remove any remaining bolts or nuts securing knuckle to strut/steering arm and pull knuckle free.
- Be careful with ABS tone ring—don’t damage it if reusing.

9) Prepare new knuckle
- Transfer sensors, dust shields, ABS tone ring, and any brackets to new knuckle, or replace as assembly.
- If using a new knuckle that requires pressed bearings, press in new wheel bearing/hub assembly using a press. Ensure correct seating and orientation. Clean mating surfaces, apply anti‑seize on hub flange if recommended.

Tool details: Press the bearing in using an arbor/driver that contacts the bearing race only, not the seal, to avoid damage. Use slide hammer/puller for removal; use hydraulic press to install.

10) Install new knuckle
- Position knuckle on strut/upper arm and loosely install fasteners. Reinstall lower/upper ball joint nuts and torque to spec but don’t fully tighten until vehicle at ride height in some designs (check manual).
- Reinstall hub assembly or bolt in new hub. If halfshaft was reinserted into hub, slide shaft fully into splines, fit hub and torque axle nut to specified torque (typ. 150–225 ft·lb on many Jeeps; consult manual). Install new cotter pin if applicable.

11) Reassemble steering & brakes
- Reattach tie‑rod end, torque nut and install new cotter pin.
- Reattach sway bar link, caliper bracket, rotor, and caliper.
- Reconnect ABS sensor and any brackets.

12) Final torques & checks
- Torque all fasteners to factory specs. Important ones: axle nut, ball‑joint pinch bolts, hub bolts, tie‑rod nut, wheel lug nuts.
- If ball joint pinch nuts were torqued with suspension drooped, lower vehicle to ride height and re‑torque per manual if required.
- Pump brake pedal to restore caliper piston position before rolling.
- Check fluid level in trans if inner CV withdrawn; top up with correct NSG370 transmission fluid if any loss occurred.
- Test for smooth wheel rotation and steering movement before driving.

Post‑repair
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to recommended value (typically ~100–130 ft·lb for many Jeeps).
- Road test gently and listen for noises. Check for leaks and re‑inspect torques after 50–100 miles.
- Recommend alignment; replacing knuckle/ball joints will alter geometry — get 4‑wheel alignment.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Rusted bolts/snapped studs: use penetrating oil and allow soak time; heat carefully if needed; replace damaged studs/bolts rather than risk failure.
- Damaging CV boots: always support the axle when separating components; don’t yank the shaft. If boot splits, replace CV joint/shaft.
- Pressing bearing incorrectly: never press on the bearing seal; press on the outer/inner race as specified to avoid race damage.
- Incorrect torques: use a calibrated torque wrench and the factory torque specs. Over‑torquing axle nut or ball joints can ruin parts or cause premature failure.
- Not replacing bearings/hub when worn: if hub bearing is loose/noisy, replace rather than reuse knuckle—reusing can cause premature failure.
- Forgetting ABS sensor/tone ring alignment: clean sensor bore, avoid damaging wiring, and ensure tone ring seating is correct.

Notes specific to NSG370 applications
- NSG370 is the 6‑speed trans used on some Jeep models; when removing halfshaft inner splines, expect possible minor fluid loss. Keep catch pan and plan to top up trans fluid and cycle through gears if required per factory procedure.
- Consult the factory Jeep service manual for model/year specific disassembly order, exact torque values, any special tools (e.g., special pullers, service bolts), and whether the knuckle uses a pressed bearing or serviceable hub.

Replacement parts checklist (commonly needed)
- Knuckle assembly OR knuckle rebuild kit
- Wheel bearing/hub assembly (recommended if bearing shows wear)
- Ball joints (upper/lower as applicable)
- Outer tie‑rod end (if damaged during separation)
- New axle nut and cotter pins
- Brake hardware (if corroded), ABS sensor (if damaged)
- Appropriate lubricants, RTV or thread locker where specified

End.
rteeqp73

Jeep Wrangler JK Tremec 6 Speed Manual Transmission Early JK, Gen IV 6.2 L94 engine, Tremec 6 speed manual transmission.

Top 3 Things I DON'T LIKE About The Jeep Wrangler JL 6-Speed Manual Transmission Today we talk about the Top 3 things that I do not like about the Jeep Wrangler JL 6-Speed Manual Transmission, and discuss the ...

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