- Safety first (read and follow these exactly)
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and work on level ground with the vehicle in Park/gear and parking brake on.
- Chock wheels front and back, disconnect the negative battery terminal, and do not work under a car supported only by a jack — always use jack stands.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and have absorbent pads/kitty litter for spills. Manual transmission fluid is slippery and can be hot.

- High-level overview of what you will do
- Find the leak source (clean, run, inspect).
- Drain enough fluid to access the leaking seal or plug.
- Remove the part that blocks access (axle, driveshaft, shift link, etc.).
- Remove and replace leaking seal or washer.
- Reassemble, torque to spec, refill to correct level, test.

- Common leak locations on a 6‑speed manual transmission (what to check)
- Input shaft (bellhousing/clutch area) seal — leaks near the bellhousing/clutch crossmember.
- Output shaft seals(s) — leaks where the driveshaft or axle meets the gearbox.
- Shift lever/shift housing boot — usually a small leak at the top of the case.
- Drain/fill plug crush washers or O‑rings — leaks at the plug threads.
- Speedometer/sensor O‑ring — small leak near sensor boss.
- Transmission case cracks (less common) — visible oil streaks that don’t originate at a seal.

- Tools you likely already have (basic tools) and exactly how to use them
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm common sizes) with ratchet
- Use to remove bolts on driveshaft/flange, crossmember and shift linkages. Match the correct size, pull straight to avoid rounding bolts.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Use where sockets can’t reach. Start with snug fit and apply steady force.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Remove hose clamps, pry off trim or small covers gently; use flat to start and protect surfaces with a thin piece of wood if levering.
- Hammer (ball-peen or claw)
- Tap gently to persuade stubborn parts (use soft-faced mallet if possible to avoid damage).
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- Remove spring clips, cotter pins, and grab small parts.
- Drain pan (wide, shallow oil pan)
- Place under gearbox to catch fluid; keep it level and large enough to hold at least 4–6 liters (6 quarts).
- Rags/shop towels and brake cleaner
- Clean the case to see the leak; brake cleaner removes old oil and grime (use in well-ventilated area).
- Jack (hydraulic floor jack)
- Lift the vehicle at designated jacking points. Use slowly and check alignment.
- Jack stands (pair, rated for vehicle weight)
- Once raised, place stands under designated support points and lower onto them — never rely on the jack alone.
- Wheel chocks
- Prevent vehicle roll when raised.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, metric Nm/lb‑ft)
- Use to tighten bolts/fasteners to manufacturer torque specs. Set the torque value and tighten until the wrench clicks.
- Funnel and hand pump (optional but useful)
- Refill transmission fluid through the fill hole without spilling; a hand pump or squeeze bottle is handy.

- Additional tools you will likely need (and why)
- Seal puller or small hook pick
- Why: to remove old lip seals without gouging the case. A hook pick gets under the seal lip to pry it out.
- Seal driver or appropriately sized deep socket and a soft-faced mallet
- Why: to drive the new seal in square and flush. Using the wrong tool can deform the seal and cause leaks.
- Axle/drive shaft puller or pry bar with a pry plate
- Why: many output seals require removing the CV axle or driveshaft flange. A puller or careful prying (protected with wood or a pry plate) avoids damaging the trans case or axle.
- Transmission jack or tall floor jack with a block of wood (recommended if you must lower the gearbox)
- Why: if you must drop or support the gearbox to access input seals, you need a way to safely support the transmission’s weight.
- Torque angle gauge (rare)
- Why: only if a fastener requires angle tightening to spec; most basic jobs don’t need it.
- Small mirror and flashlight or inspection camera
- Why: to inspect leak paths in hard-to-see areas.
- Replacement drain/fill plug crush washer (copper or aluminum)
- Why: the washer creates the seal at the plug. Reuse often leaks.

- Step-by-step procedure (bullet style, not numbered)
- Clean the gearbox exterior with brake cleaner and rags to remove oil and grime — this makes the exact leak source visible.
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, jack and support the vehicle on jack stands placed at manufacturer points.
- Locate the leak visually and with a flashlight and clean area again; run the engine briefly (in neutral) or move the vehicle short distance to generate fluid traces if safe — wipe and recheck.
- Identify if the leak is from a plug (drain or fill), from the output shaft area where the axle mates, or from the bellhousing/input shaft area.
- If leak is at a drain or fill plug:
- Place drain pan under plug, remove plug with socket/wrench, inspect washer, replace washer and reinstall plug to spec using torque wrench. Clean and test.
- Tools used: socket/rachet (to remove), torque wrench (to tighten to spec), drain pan (to catch fluid).
- If leak is at output shaft/axle seal:
- Remove the wheel, brake caliper and rotor if needed to access the axle on independent rear/front drive as required for your model.
- Disconnect the driveshaft/axle from the gearbox flange or hub — remove retaining nuts/bolts.
- Support the axle and carefully pry it out of the gearbox; some fluid will drain — have the drain pan ready.
- Use a seal puller or small hook to carefully remove the old seal without scratching the bore.
- Clean the bore and check the mating surface of the axle for damage; replace axle if it has deep grooves that will cut the new seal lip.
- Install the new seal using a seal driver or an appropriately sized deep socket to press it in evenly until flush; do not tilt the seal.
- Reinstall the axle/driveshaft, torque bolts to spec, reassemble brakes/wheel, refill to correct level and test.
- Tools used: socket set, pry bar with protection/pullers, seal puller, seal driver/deep socket, torque wrench, jack/stands.
- If leak is at input/bellhousing seal (clutch shaft):
- This typically requires separating the transmission from the engine to access the input shaft seal — a more advanced job.
- Support the transmission with a transmission jack or floor jack with a block of wood, remove crossmember, driveshaft, shift linkage, and then unbolt and lower the gearbox only if you are prepared and have the tools. Replace the input seal with a driver, then reassemble and set torque.
- Tools used: transmission jack (strongly recommended), full socket set, pry bars, seal driver, torque wrench.
- After replacing seals/plugs:
- Clean mating surfaces, torque fasteners to specification, reinstall any removed components.
- Refill gearbox fluid to the fill plug level (fill until fluid runs out of the fill hole or to specified level). Use the correct fluid type per factory manual.
- Start the vehicle and check for leaks, then take a short test drive and recheck.

- How to use the key extra tools in more detail
- Seal puller/hook pick
- Slide the hook behind the seal lip and pull outward. Pry slowly so you don’t gouge the bore. If the seal is stubborn, work around the circumference.
- Seal driver / deep socket + mallet
- Pick a driver or socket whose face matches the outer diameter of the seal. Place seal square on the bore and tap evenly around the driver until the seal is flush. Do not drive by the inner lip.
- Transmission jack or floor jack with wood block
- Center the jack under the gearbox’s designated support point. Use the wood block to spread load. Raise/lower slowly and keep vehicle supported on stands.
- Torque wrench
- Set to the specified value, snug fastener, then apply steady torque until the wrench clicks. Do not use a torque wrench as a breaker bar.

- Replacement parts you might need and why
- Output shaft seal(s) (lip seals)
- Why: most common on leaking manual boxes; seal ages and lip hardens or gets cut by axle surface.
- Input shaft seal
- Why: if leak is at bellhousing; typically replaced when transmission is removed.
- Drain and fill plug washers / crush washers / O‑rings
- Why: these compress to seal; they commonly leak after reuse — always replace.
- Shift lever boot or housing gasket
- Why: a deteriorated boot or gasket leaks at the top of the case.
- Speedometer/sensor O‑ring or seal
- Why: if fluid is leaking near sensor boss.
- CV axle or driveshaft (if shaft has deep grooves)
- Why: a damaged shaft lip will cut any new seal and require shaft replacement to stop leaks.
- Full transmission replacement (rare)
- Why: if the case is cracked or bearing surfaces are ruined, repair may not be economical; replacement or rebuild required.

- Fluid and parts selection notes
- Use the exact fluid specified by Jeep/service manual for the NSG370; wrong fluid can cause gear/hydraulic problems. If you don’t have the manual, the fill cap or service literature will list the correct spec (common manual gear oils are 75W‑80/75W‑90 with GL‑4 spec for many manuals).
- Buy OEM or high‑quality aftermarket seals sized for your gearbox model — generic seals that are slightly wrong will fail.

- When to stop and get a professional
- If the leak source requires removing the transmission and you lack a transmission jack or experience.
- If the axle shaft is damaged or the bearing feels rough.
- If the case is cracked or leaking from multiple, unclear sources.
- If you are unsure of torque specs or fluid type — improper reassembly can cause catastrophic failure.

- Quick troubleshooting tips (for beginners)
- Clean before you diagnose — old oil hides the true origin.
- Put paper towels or white rags over suspect areas, run vehicle briefly, then inspect where the oil appears first.
- Replace cheap crush washers and seals first — they’re inexpensive and often fix the leak.
- Tightening bolts beyond spec is not a fix and can strip threads or crack the case.

- Final checks
- After repair and refill, check fluid level at fill hole with the engine cold/warm as specified by the manual.
- Road test gently, then inspect for leaks. Recheck torque on accessible fasteners after a short drive.

- Parts to have on hand before you start
- Output/input seals (match OEM part numbers), drain/fill crush washers, a small tube of silicone sealant if a mating surface needs light RTV (only if manual allows), correct transmission fluid quantity for top‑up.

(That’s the concise, practical checklist with tool descriptions and why/usage. Follow safety steps strictly. If you need OEM part numbers or torque specs, consult the Jeep NSG370 service manual for your vehicle year — those specifics are critical for correct torque and fluid.)
rteeqp73

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