Tools & PPE (be ready)
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet, extensions, box/combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (in-lbs & ft-lbs; 5–80 ft·lb range).
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, snap-ring pliers.
- Trim tools for center console removal.
- Floor jack + quality jack stands (rated for vehicle).
- Transmission jack or second floor jack to support trans if needed.
- Long pry bar (for leverage when checking bushings).
- Punch / drift (for removing/installing bushings if required).
- Centering / alignment tool (OEM shifter alignment pin or a 6–8 mm steel rod to hold the gearbox selector in neutral if a factory tool isn’t available).
- Grease (white lithium or moly), thread locker (medium).
- Replacement parts (recommended): shifter bushing kit, shift cable(s) if split/cable style, selector arm pivot bushing, rubber gaiter/boot, retaining clips, any corroded bolts.

Safety first (read before you start)
- Work on a flat level surface; set the parking brake and chock rear wheels.
- Use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone. Support the vehicle at manufacturer-recommended lift points.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep hands clear of pinch points.
- If you start the engine for testing, keep the vehicle restrained (parking brake + chocks). Avoid running the engine with anyone under the vehicle.
- Disconnect the battery only if you will be doing electrical work or to avoid accidental starter engagement while you're in the gearbox area. It’s not normally required for linkage adjustment.

What we’re adjusting (clarification)
- The NSG370 is a cable/rod-actuated 6-speed. “Suspension geometry” likely means the shifter/selector geometry — aligning the shifter, cables and selector arm so gears fully engage, eliminate missed shifts/grinding, and remove sloppy feel.

High-level sequence
1) Inspect for worn components.
2) Center gearbox selector to neutral.
3) Center shifter to neutral.
4) Connect/adjust cable(s) so both ends are centered.
5) Tighten hardware to spec, reassemble, test.

Step-by-step procedure

1. Preliminary inspection
- With the vehicle on the ground, shift through gears and note vague/sloppy feel, hard shifts, or grinding. Inspect visible cable ends, mounting bracket, and shifter pivot for torn boots, cracked bushings, or excessive play.
- If shift cable outer sheath is split, or inner cable frays, plan to replace the cable.

2. Gain access
- Park, chock, jack and stand the vehicle. Remove center console trim and shifter boot to access the in-cabin shifter assembly and cable ends. If working from undercarriage, get clear access to the transmission selector arm.

3. Remove tension and isolate
- Put the shifter in NEUTRAL (inside cabin) and the transmission selector in NEUTRAL (under vehicle). Both must be centered.
- Use the centering pin/alignment tool: insert factory alignment pin into the gearbox selector hole, or insert a suitably sized steel rod into the selector hole to hold it precisely in neutral. This prevents the selector from moving while you adjust the cable.

4. Inspect & replace worn parts as needed
- Check shifter pivot bushings (inside cabin) — if plastic/rubber bushings are flattened or loose, replace them. These kits are inexpensive and restore crispness.
- Inspect the transmission selector arm and its rubber bushing. If the pivot is loose or the arm is bent, replace.
- Replace boots/gaiters to keep contaminants out.
- If cable ends have excessive play or snapped retainers, replace cable(s).

5. Disconnect cable(s)
- At the transmission selector, remove the retaining clip and gently pry the cable end off the selector stud. At the in-cabin end, loosen the clamp that fixes cable length (if applicable) and free the cable from the shifter arm.
- With the gearbox selector held in neutral by the alignment pin, visually confirm the selector arm is centered.

6. Center shifter — cabin side
- With the cable disconnected, place the in-cabin shifter into neutral (level/center). Some OEMs require a certain orientation of the shifter base; ensure it’s in the neutral detent. If the shifter body is bolted to the floor, lightly snug the mounting bolts so it won’t move during cable connection (final torque later).

7. Reattach cable and set geometry
- Attach the cable end to the selector stud on the transmission while the selector is locked in neutral. Ensure the cable head seats fully on the selector and the retaining clip is correctly installed.
- Back inside, adjust the cable length/adjuster so the in-cabin shifter remains exactly in neutral without forcing it. If there’s an adjuster at the dash or bracket, turn it until there’s no preload or slack — cable should have a small amount of free play but not be under bias.
- If the vehicle uses a clamp for cable length at the shifter bracket, seat the cable in the bracket while the shifter is neutral and tighten the clamp enough to hold position (final torque to manufacturer spec).

8. Tighten hardware to spec
- Torque the shifter mounting bolts and transmission cable bracket bolts to factory specs (if you don’t have the exact spec: snug to avoid movement, then torque to typical small-bolt ranges — 10–25 ft·lb — but consult a shop manual for exact numbers).
- Apply medium thread locker where steel bolts into aluminum if service history shows them vibrating loose (use sparingly).

9. Functional checks (dry)
- Remove the alignment pin and manually move the shifter through all gears while someone watches the selector arm at the transmission. Verify the transmission selector moves precisely into each gear detent: 1–2, 3–4, 5–6, and reverse (observe reverse lockout).
- If the selector fails to move fully into a gear or reverse, re-lock into neutral and repeat centering/adjustment. Don’t attempt a road test until smooth dry shifts are confirmed.

10. Road test & final checks
- Reinstall console/trim, start the vehicle (engine on ground, driver in seat), depress clutch and shift through all gears. Listen for grinding and verify synchro engagement. Drive at low speeds, test up/down shifts. If grinding or missed engagement persists, re-check geometry and inspect synchros/clutch condition.
- After 50–100 miles, re-check cable clamps and mounting bolt torque.

Detailed notes on using the alignment tool
- The alignment pin sits in a hole on top of the transmission selector or in the shifter housing and locks the selector into the neutral detent. It prevents the selector from rotating while you hook up the cable.
- If no OEM pin, use a steel rod sized to fit the selector centering hole — it must seat fully and hold the arm off the detents. Do not lever on the rod; it’s solely to hold position.
- Inside the cabin, use the shifter detents (feel) and visual centering of the shifter boot as reference. Some techs mark the neutral orientation on the shifter tower with a scribe.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not centering both ends: If either the trans selector or the shifter isn’t truly neutral, the cable will be biased and lead to hard shifts or partial engagement. Use the alignment pin and confirm neutral by feel AND visual alignment.
- Reusing worn bushings: Old, collapsed bushings give false freedom. Replace cheap bushings — they restore geometry.
- Over-torquing or stripping small bolts: Use a torque wrench and factory specs; avoid guessing.
- Forgetting reverse lockout alignment: Reverse bind can occur if lockout isn’t reinstalled or adjusted correctly. Confirm reverse engages only with the release mechanism functioning.
- Rushing reassembly: Always retest before finishing the console install.
- Performing adjustments with the vehicle unsafe: Never work under the car without stands and chocks.

When to replace parts (quick guide)
- Cable: frayed inner wire, broken sheath, or excessive stretch — replace.
- Bushings: any visible cracking, flat spots, or play — replace.
- Selector arm: bent, heavily corroded, or loose pivot — replace.
- Shifter assembly: worn pivot or detents — replace or rebuild.

If problems persist after correct geometry
- Persistent grinding can indicate clutch wear, mis-indexed clutch release, or internal transmission synchro failure — these require deeper diagnosis (clutch test, fluid check, possible gearbox removal).
- Excessive free play after installing new bushings/cables could indicate incorrect part or bent lever; inspect parts for straightness.

Final tips
- Always replace cheap rubber bushings — it’s inexpensive and will noticeably improve feel.
- Keep a paper log of the initial symptoms, the parts replaced, and the final results; it helps if further work is needed.
- If you don’t have a factory alignment pin or a service manual, get the OEM procedure from a repair manual for your exact Jeep model/year — torque values and exact access points change between models.

Done.
rteeqp73

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