Theory (short)
- The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) senses crankshaft rotation/angle by detecting a passing reluctor/toner wheel tooth or a magnetic ring. Two common types: passive (magnet/coiled pickup — produces an AC voltage proportional to rpm) and active (Hall/VR transistor — needs 5 V supply and outputs a digital square/TTL signal).
- The ECU/PCM uses CKP signal for ignition timing, fuel injection timing, RPM, and engine synchronisation. A bad/absent/erratic CKP signal causes no-start, stalling, misfire, rough idle, false timing advance/retard, limp mode or diagnostic codes (e.g. P0335-series).
- On vehicles with the NSG370 6-speed manual, transmission behavior that depends on engine speed (clutch control, shift-assist electronics, rev-matching helpers in some systems, and some safety interlocks) also relies on a correct crank or input speed reference. Replacing the CKP restores a clean timing reference.

Ordered diagnostic + repair (do in this order)
1. Safety and prep
- Park on level ground, ignition OFF, key out, parking brake set. Let engine cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid shorts when unplugging connectors.
- Gather tools: basic hand tools, penetrating oil, replacement CKP (OEM or exact match), multimeter and/or oscilloscope if available, torque wrench, rags.

2. Confirm fault before replacing
- Read stored DTCs with a scan tool. Note codes related to CKP (crankshaft sensor) or camshaft/engine position.
- Observe live data: does RPM read while cranking? Is the RPM signal erratic?
- If available, probe the CKP connector while cranking:
- Passive sensor: measure AC volts between signal and ground while cranking — you should see an AC waveform that increases with engine speed.
- Active (Hall) sensor: verify 5 V supply on Vcc pin, ground continuity, and check for a square-wave signal on the output when cranking.
- If the sensor produces no signal or an intermittent/weak waveform, or the supply/ground is correct but no output, proceed to replace sensor. If wiring is open/damaged, repair wiring instead.

3. Locate the sensor
- The CKP sits at the crankshaft/timing cover or bellhousing face near where the engine mates to the transmission. On many Jeep/Chrysler engines it is accessible from the engine side or bellhousing area. Remove any service panels if needed.

4. Access and remove obstruction parts
- Remove components obstructing access (heat shields, intake resonator, airbox, or starter if it blocks sensor access). Support/mark wiring harness routing.

5. Disconnect electrical connector
- Release the sensor connector tab and unplug. Inspect connector pins for corrosion, corrosion, bent pins, oil or metal debris. Clean if necessary.

6. Remove the sensor
- Spray penetrating oil if bolts are corroded. Remove the sensor mounting fastener(s) and withdraw the sensor straight out to avoid damage. Note any O-ring/seal — keep the recess clean.

7. Inspect surrounding components
- Inspect the reluctor ring/tooth wheel and sensor mating surface for damaged teeth, heavy metal debris, or grease/slag. Clean metal shavings or oil deposits — a sensor reading can be ruined by debris, a broken tab on the tone wheel, or damaged reluctor teeth.

8. Fit the replacement
- Compare old and new sensors to ensure match (length, connector, mounting location).
- Lubricate a new O-ring lightly if applicable (manufacturer recommends) and install sensor in correct orientation. Seat it fully but do not force.
- Torque the mounting bolt to the manufacturer’s spec (or snug to a reasonable OEM-level torque — check service manual). Do not over-tighten and avoid misalignment.

9. Reconnect connector and reassemble
- Plug electrical connector back in, secure harness with clips. Reinstall any removed components (starter, heat shield, airbox).
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.

10. Verify repair
- Clear stored codes with a scan tool. Crank and start engine; check live RPM reading and CKP waveform with scan tool/oscilloscope. RPM should be steady and present at idle and while revving.
- Road test and verify symptoms (no misfire, normal idle, no limp mode). Re-scan for codes after test.

Why replacing fixes the fault (concise)
- A defective CKP produces no or noisy/incorrect timing pulses so the ECU cannot determine crank angle or RPM reliably. Replacing the sensor restores the proper electrical waveform (clean amplitude and timing), so the ECU receives correct timing information and resumes correct ignition/fuel timing and RPM reporting.
- If the failure was caused by physical contamination or a damaged sensor tip, a new sensor (and cleaned tone wheel) restores the sensing gap and signal strength. If the failure was due to wiring or connector corrosion and you replaced/cleaned those, you restore supply and ground integrity so the active/power‑dependent sensor can operate.
- Because engine control and transmission-related systems rely on that signal, restoring a correct CKP waveform eliminates the engine-management errors that led to no-starts, misfires, limp behavior, or incorrect transmission-related behavior.

Quick test tips (practical theory)
- Active/Hall: check for stable +5V (or reference voltage) and ground; output should switch between ~0–5 V as the crank rotates.
- Passive/VR: with engine cranking, expect an AC waveform; amplitude rises with rpm. An open pickup (infinite resistance) or zero output = bad.
- Intermittent faults: wiggle harness while cranking to replicate failures; intermittent contact shows as dropouts in waveform.

Done.
rteeqp73

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