Quick summary: rod (shaft) bearings in an NSG370 support and center the internal shafts (shift rods and running shafts) so gears and forks move smoothly. Worn rod bearings cause play, misalignment, noisy or hard shifting, gear grind and premature wear. Below is a beginner-friendly but detailed guide describing components, how the system works, what to look for, and a step‑by‑step approach to replacing the rod bearings. Read every step before you start, use the right tools, and get the factory service manual for exact torque/clearance specs.

Safety first
- Work on a flat level surface, use jack stands if vehicle is lifted. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Drain fluids before opening the gearbox. Avoid skin contact with gear oil.
- If you’re not confident pressing bearings or aligning shafts, consider a shop; incorrect reassembly can cause catastrophic gearbox failure.

What “rod bearings” means here
- In a manual gearbox context “rod bearings” usually refers to the plain bearings/bushings or journal bearings that support shafts (shift/selector rods and sometimes countershaft/case journals). They’re typically bronze or polymer bushings pressed into the case or a removable bearing cap.
- In the NSG370 people commonly encounter wear on selector/shift rod bushings and on running shaft journals where the main shafts ride in the case or caps.

Theory — how and why this matters (analogy)
- Think of the gearbox internals like a train on tracks: shafts are the tracks and bearings/bushings are the sleepers/rail seats that hold the track straight. If the sleepers wear, the track can wobble and the train (gears) can’t mesh correctly.
- Bearings/bushings keep shafts centered and control endplay and radial clearance. If the rod bearings wear, shafts shift under load, gears don’t align, teeth chip, engagement collars grind, syncros overheat, and shifting becomes hard or noisy.

Major components you’ll encounter (with function)
- Gearbox case (external housing): holds and aligns everything. Contains pressed-in or removable bearing bores.
- Input shaft: receives engine power via clutch and transmits to countershaft or layshaft.
- Countershaft / layshaft: carries driven gears that mesh with the output shaft.
- Output/main shaft: transmits power to driveshaft/axle. Supported by bearings/bushings.
- Shift rails/rods (selector rods): long rods that slide to move selector forks and collars. Supported by bushings in the case.
- Selector forks: ride on selector rods and move sliding collars (dog collars/syncro sleeves) to engage gears.
- Sliding collars / synchro assemblies: move to lock a gear to the shaft; synchromesh components equalize speeds before engagement.
- Rod bearings/bushings (bronze/polymer sleeves): pressed into case or caps to support selector/shift rods or running shafts.
- Snap rings/circlips, thrust washers, shims, seals/gaskets: keep parts in place and control axial movement and sealing.
- Fasteners and bearing caps: secure shafts and sometimes locate bearings.

Tools and supplies you’ll need (basics)
- Service manual for NSG370 (essential for torque, clearances, and exploded views)
- Basic hand tools: metric sockets, ratchet, breaker bar, torque wrench, screwdrivers, pliers
- Gear puller, bearing puller/separator (if removing bearings or pressed-on parts)
- Press (hydraulic) or arbor press, and suitable bearing drivers
- Snap ring pliers, drift punches, dead blow hammer
- Feeler gauges, dial indicator (for endplay), micrometer or calipers (for journal OD), plastigage (for clearance checks if needed)
- Parts cleaner, rags, new gear oil, gasket/sealant
- Replacement rod bearings/bushings, seals, any worn syncros or forks as needed
- Anti-seize or assembly lube, Loctite for thread locking where specified

Preparation and diagnosis
- Symptoms of worn rod bearings: gear rattle at idle/low speeds, hard or crunchy shifting, forks misaligned, gear slipping out, metal flakes or bronze colored powder in oil, excessive shift lever play, or humming/noise under load.
- Check oil for metal debris and bearing material. Excess bronze/bronze dust suggests worn bronze bushings.
- Test shift feel: if neutral is vague or shifts feel sloppy, selector rod play is likely.

Disassembly overview (bench rebuild recommended)
Note: This is a broad, safe-level procedure appropriate for a beginner following a manual. For NSG370 exact bolt locations and sequences are in the service manual.

1) Remove gearbox from vehicle (recommended)
- Disconnect battery, remove driveshaft/axles, unbolt transmission from engine and crossmember. Drain oil first.
- Removing the gearbox gives better access and prevents ruining clutch or other parts.

2) Strip external parts
- Remove shift linkage, shifter assembly, covers, and selector housing.
- Remove top cover if present; keep track of fastener locations.

3) Open case
- Remove bolts holding case halves or remove bell housing and separate case halves as per manual.
- Note: many modern transmissions are split horizontally; take care when prying—don’t nick sealing surfaces.

4) Remove shafts and internals
- Remove input, counter, and output shafts. Keep gear sets in order and mark orientation.
- Remove selector forks and rods. The rods may pull out with a bit of force once retaining clips removed.
- Inspect snap rings, thrust washers, and any shims; mark and stack them in order.

Detailed focus: identifying and removing rod bearings
- Identify bushings: they’ll look like bronze sleeves or polymer sleeves pressed in the case where the selector rods or shafts pass through.
- Some bushing types are removable (slotted, with a retaining ring) or pressed. Use a punch or bushing puller to drive them out from the case side that is thinner. Be careful not to deform case.
- Keep track: some bushing locations are different diameters—label them.

Inspection: what to measure and what’s bad
- Visual: scoring, oval wear, cracked/fragmented bushings, bearing material in oil.
- Shaft journals: measure OD of selector rods / shaft journals with calipers/micrometer. Compare to new bushing ID or factory specs.
- Bushing ID/OD: measure old bushing ID. Excess radial clearance >0.2–0.3 mm (typical) is often serviceable limit, but refer to manual. Look for ovality.
- Endplay/backlash: assemble shafts loosely and check rotational play and lateral endplay with dial indicator.

Replacement and installation of rod bearings
- Use OEM or high-quality aftermarket bushings specified for NSG370. Bronze sintered or polymer bushings are common.
- Clean bore and remove burrs. Lightly oil ID and OD for installation (use assembly lube if specified).
- Press new bushings squarely into the case using appropriate driver to avoid cocking. Driver diameter should only contact flange or outside diameter recommended—don’t drive on thin lip that will be reused as bearing surface.
- If bushings are split or slotted style, align the slot if required and secure with retaining pins/clips.

Reassembly — tips and order
- Reinstall shafts and gears in reverse order. Use case manual’s sequence and torque specs for shaft retention bolts and caps.
- Replace gaskets and seals; use new snap rings and circlips if any are worn.
- When reinstalling selector rods and forks, confirm forks are properly engaged in synchro sleeves and collars.
- Check alignment: with shafts installed, manually shift through gears to ensure each selector moves freely and engages.
- Check endplay/backlash: set any required shims or preload specified in the manual. Use dial indicator to check endplay on output shaft and backlash between gears; adjust shims if necessary.
- Torque all fasteners to factory specs—do not guess. Incorrect torque leads to distortion and bearing failure.

Final checks before reinstalling in car
- Rotate input shaft by hand through all gears. Listen for rubbing, binding, or gear clash.
- Check for excessive lateral play on selector rods. Shifts should be positive.
- Refill with correct spec gear oil and quantity. NSG370 typically specifies certain manual trans oil—use the spec in manual.

Common things that go wrong and how to avoid them
- Driving out or pressing in bushing cocked or tilted: leads to uneven seating and premature wear. Use correct drivers and press evenly.
- Reusing worn bushings: always replace bushings that show wear or scoring.
- Incorrect shimming/preload: too loose leads to play and misalignment; too tight causes overheating and wear. Always use factory shims and measure endplay.
- Contaminated oil: dirt or metallic particles will rapidly wear new bushings. Clean everything thoroughly and use clean fluid.
- Forgetting to replace seals: leads to leaks and contamination. Replace all seals and gaskets.
- Using wrong material bushings: some aftermarket polymer bushings have different wear characteristics—stick to OEM-specified materials.
- Overtightening fasteners: can warp the case or crush bushes. Use torque wrench.

Testing after installation
- With gearbox mounted: verify smooth shifting under no-load (engine off) and then a road test. Check for leaks and listen for unusual noises.
- After a short drive, recheck fluid level and look for metal in the drain plug or fresh contamination.

When to rebuild the whole gearbox instead
- If you find chipped or excessively worn gears or syncros, damaged forks, or multiple worn bushings and shafts, a full rebuild is often more cost-effective.
- If shaft journals are scored beyond repair, a rebore or replacement shaft may be necessary.

Parts to replace as a minimum when servicing rod bearings
- All rod/selector bushings in the case
- Any seals/gaskets disturbed
- Snap rings/clips that are deformed
- Consider replacing worn forks, collars, and syncro rings if wear found

Final practical notes and analogies
- Think of replacing rod bearings like replacing worn hinge bushings on a door: if the hinge seat is loose the door droops and won’t close right. Fix the hinge seats (bushings), re-center the hinge (set endplay), and the door works correctly again.
- Patience and cleanliness are more important than speed. A small contamination or misaligned bushing causes big problems later.

References and mandatory: get the factory service manual
- For exact torque values, shim thicknesses, endplay/backlash values and exploded diagrams get the NSG370 factory service manual. This guide gives the process and what to watch for, but the service manual supplies the precise numbers you must follow.

You now have the complete conceptual map, the parts list, what to measure, common failures, and the step-by-step flow to remove, inspect, replace and reinstall rod/selector shaft bushings in an NSG370. Follow the service manual for specific torque and clearance specs and take your time.
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