Tools & PPE
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots. Trans jack or lift.
- Hand tools: metric/SAE socket set, ratchets, breaker bar, torque wrench (0–300 ft·lb / 0–400 N·m), extension bars.
- Specialty tools: transmission jack, 3‑ or 4‑jaw puller or slide hammer with flange puller adapter, arbor/hydraulic press or hydraulic nut/shaft press, seal driver set, snap‑ring pliers, drift/soft‑hammer (brass or dead‑blow), bearing puller (if needed).
- Supporting fixtures: transmission support plate or bench vise with soft jaws, press sleeves to protect splines.
- Other: drain pan, rags, solvent, assembly lube, clean thread locker (medium), new flange nut/washer or specified locking device, new output shaft seal, new snap ring, new output flange (OEM part), replacement bearing(s) if worn, gear oil (manufacturer spec).

Safety precautions (must-follow)
- Work on a flat surface with vehicle securely supported on jackstands or on a lift. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect battery before starting.
- Use a transmission jack to lower/remove the gearbox. Don’t let it fall.
- When using a press, center parts and use appropriate sleeves to avoid slippage and sudden ejection.
- Wear eye protection when removing the flange — springs/circlips can eject.
- If using an impact gun on large nuts, hold the shaft stationary with the correct holding fixture to avoid damaging internal components.

Parts commonly required
- Replacement output flange (OEM NSG370 flange)
- Output shaft oil seal
- Snap ring(s) / retaining ring(s)
- Flange retaining nut and washer (replace if single‑use)
- Bearing(s) and spacer(s) if inspection shows wear
- Transmission fluid as per Jeep/Chrysler spec
- Clean replacement fasteners if specified by manual

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Drain transmission fluid into pan.
- Remove center driveshaft (prop shaft) from output flange. Mark driveline orientation for reassembly.

2) Remove gearbox from vehicle (brief)
- Support engine if required.
- Disconnect shift linkage, speedometer/vehicle speed sensor wiring, ground wires, and any electrical connectors on trans.
- Remove transmission crossmember and starter if necessary.
- Lower gearbox with a transmission jack. Place on bench or on support plate.

3) Clean and inspect
- Clean rear of gearbox so you can see flange fasteners and sealing surface.
- Remove any remaining prop-shaft bolts to expose flange fully.

4) Remove flange retaining hardware
- If there’s a snap ring on the output shaft behind the flange, use snap‑ring pliers to remove it.
- Remove the flange retaining nut/washer. If heavily torqued, use breaker bar or impact (see safety). Prevent output shaft rotation using a holding fixture on the input or a flange hold tool if available.

5) Pull the flange
- Use a correctly sized 3‑jaw puller or flange puller hooked to the flange bolt holes. Align the puller center screw onto the output shaft boss or onto a holding adapter so force pulls the flange straight out.
- Tighten puller slowly until flange releases. If flange is stuck, apply penetrating oil and alternate gentle heat on the flange (not the seal area) or use a slide hammer attached to puller adapter.
- Do NOT pry on the gearbox housing — that can crack the case.

6) Inspect shaft and internal parts
- Inspect splines for wear, burrs, or fretting. Light burrs can be stoned off; deep damage requires replacing output shaft or gearbox assembly.
- Check output bearing for play or roughness. Replace bearing if noisy or loose.
- Inspect seal bore and mating surfaces.

7) Remove and replace output seal
- Pry old seal out (careful not to score the bore). Clean bore.
- Lightly coat new seal lip with clean gear oil or assembly lube. Use seal driver to press new seal squarely until flush with gearbox housing.

8) Install flange (press or drift method)
- If pressing on: support the output shaft in the press with a sleeve that bears on the flange hub, not on the face of the flange. Use an installation sleeve that presses on the flange hub evenly. Press slowly until flange seats fully against shoulder.
- If use soft‑hammer: align flange splines and evenly tap the flange on with a brass or dead‑blow hammer using a sleeve/dummy that contacts the hub, not the face. Avoid impacting the seal.
- Make sure flange is fully seated and centered.

9) Reinstall snap ring/retaining ring
- Install new snap ring(s) into the groove(s) if applicable. Ensure it fully seats in the groove.

10) Install washer and nut; torque
- Fit washer and replace flange nut with a new nut if specified. For torque, use the exact value from the Jeep factory service manual for the NSG370 output flange nut. Typical practice: secure shaft from rotating using a holding fixture; torque nut smoothly to the manufacturer’s specified Nm/ft·lb. If the nut is single‑use or crushed‑type, replace with new and use correct install method.

11) Reassemble transmission to vehicle
- Clean mating surfaces, reposition trans on jack and lift into place.
- Reinstall crossmember, starter, shift linkage, sensors, and ground wires. Reattach driveshaft, aligning marks.
- Refill transmission with correct fluid to specified capacity and level. Use the exact fluid type in service manual.

12) Final checks and test
- Torque prop shaft bolts to spec.
- Reconnect battery.
- Run engine, cycle through gears, check for leaks at the output seal and flange.
- Road test for vibration or noise. Recheck torque after short test drive.

How the key tools are used
- Puller: bolts into the flange bolt holes or clamps onto flange; its center screw pushes against the shaft center or adapter to draw the flange straight off. Tighten evenly and use steady pressure.
- Slide hammer: attaches to flange or puller adapter; give controlled pulls to unseat a stuck flange.
- Press: use protective sleeves so force is transmitted to the flange hub, not to the sealing face; press until flange seats on the shaft shoulder.
- Seal driver: seat the new seal squarely and flush without distorting the lip.
- Snap‑ring pliers: expand/contract ring to remove/install without marring groove.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not using a proper puller/press: prying or hammering the flange off risks cracking the gearbox housing or deforming flange. Always use proper puller or press.
- Damaging seal bore when removing old seal: use thin pry tool and be gentle. Replace seal if bore is scored.
- Reusing single‑use nuts or snap rings: always replace single‑use or torque‑to‑yield fasteners. Verify with service manual.
- Not replacing worn bearings or splines: installing a new flange on a worn output shaft will lead to premature failure and vibration.
- Improperly torqued flange nut or driveshaft bolts: can cause noise, loosening, or catastrophic failure. Use calibrated torque wrench and service manual values.
- Contaminating new seal lip with dirt or solvent: keep surfaces clean and lubricate seal before installation.
- Driving without verifying fluid level: under/overfill causes poor shifting and damage.

Notes and final reminder
- Exact torque values, part numbers, and fluid type/capacity for the NSG370 6‑speed must be taken from the Jeep/Chrysler factory service manual or dealer parts catalog; follow those values precisely.
- If internal bearing replacement is required, additional disassembly and proper bearing preload setup may be necessary — not covered here and best done with a full service manual or by a transmission shop.

That’s the complete step sequence and tool usage.
rteeqp73

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