Jeep Wrangler NV3550 manual gearbox factory workshop and repair manual
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The NV3550 is a medium-duty, 5-speed, constant mesh, fully synchronized manual transmission. The transmission is available in two and four-wheel drive configurations.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
DESCRIPTION
OPERATION
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
REMOVAL
DISASSEMBLY
CLEANING
INSPECTION
ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIAL TOOLS
EXTENSION HOUSING BUSHING
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
Jeep Wrangler NV3550 manual gearbox factory workshop and repair manual
Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric/SAE socket set (including 8–19 mm), ratchets, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers.
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft·lb range).
- Transmission jack or good floor jack + transmission adapter and sturdy jackstands.
- Hydraulic press (6–20 ton) or heavy bench press.
- Bearing pullers / slide hammer with attachments.
- Seal drivers and bearing race drivers (assorted diameters).
- Snap‑ring pliers (internal & external).
- Drift punches, brass/nylon drifts, deadblow hammer.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for endplay/backlash checks).
- Feeler gauges and micrometer/calipers.
- RTV gasket maker or paper gaskets per manual; thread locker (medium).
- Gear oil and a clean catch container (NV3550 uses API GL‑4 75W‑90; check spec).
- Solvent, parts cleaner, lint‑free rags, assembly lube.
- Replacement parts: full gasket/seal kit for NV3550, bearing set, synchro kit(s) (syncro rings for 2nd–5th as required), shims if worn, snap rings, shift rails/forks if worn, speedometer drive gear if damaged.
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection.
Safety precautions (do these first)
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels, set parking brake, and disconnect battery.
- Support vehicle securely on jackstands. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Use a transmission jack when lowering/raising the gearbox. The NV3550 is heavy and awkward.
- Wear eye protection when pressing or prying. Keep hands clear when using a press.
- Drain fluid before removal and dispose of used fluid properly.
High‑level procedure (step‑by‑step)
1) Preparation / remove transmission from vehicle
- Shift to neutral. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Remove driveshafts (front and rear) or at least disconnect transfer case depending on vehicle setup. Label/mark flanges.
- Disconnect shifter linkage and remove shift lever boot.
- Remove starter if it interferes with bellhousing bolts.
- Support engine if required (if motor sag could put load on transmission mounts).
- Support transmission with transmission jack. Remove crossmember(s) and transmission mount(s).
- Remove bellhousing bolts to engine in a crisscross pattern and lower transmission carefully. Keep transmission balanced and watch for wiring, ground straps, clutch linkage or slave cylinder hoses.
2) External teardown
- Drain gearbox if not already drained. Remove speedo gear/sensor and any external covers (shift lever housing).
- Remove shift forks/rails assembly and note orientation. Keep fasteners and detents organized.
- Remove intermediate/side covers and inspect for obvious damage.
3) Split the case
- Remove all case bolts; keep them organized by location/length. Some bolts are different lengths.
- Carefully separate case halves; use small pry bars/drawbars and be careful not to damage bearing bosses or mating surfaces. Work slowly and evenly.
- Expect oil and small parts/springs to drop—use trays and work over a clean bench.
4) Disassemble internals
- Remove snap rings and extract mainshaft, input shaft, and countershaft assemblies in order. Lay parts out in sequence for reference.
- Remove bearings, gears, synchro hubs, blocking rings and reverse idler gear.
- Use a press to remove pressed‑on bearings and races. Use bearing puller on shafts where needed.
- Remove bearing races from bores with proper drivers; do not score case bores.
5) Clean & inspect
- Clean all parts with solvent. Inspect gears for chipped teeth and excessive wear, check synchromesh rings for glazing, check hub/sleeve engagement faces, measure bearing journals for scoring.
- Inspect shift forks for wear at the pad contact points and check for bent or cracked rails and forks.
- Inspect all bearings by rotating them; replace any with play, rough feel, or pitting. Replace all seals.
- Typical replacement parts: all bearings, all synchro rings and springs (or complete synchro rebuild kit), output/input seals, paper gaskets/RTV, any worn gears/shafts, and shift forks if worn beyond spec.
6) Bearing & race service
- Use press and appropriate drivers to remove/install bearings. Heat the bearing outer race slightly (oven or heat gun, ~120–150 °F) to ease installation if necessary; avoid overheating.
- Drive new races squarely with race drivers; do not hammer on bearing rollers.
- Use thread locker where specified, and replace all snap rings.
7) Reassembly (critical measurements)
- Reassemble shafts with new synchros and bearings. Lightly lube splines and friction surfaces with assembly lube.
- Install mainshaft/countershaft into one case half. Install bearings and races properly.
- Set endplay and preload per factory procedure:
- Measure mainshaft endplay with dial indicator against case; use shims as required to obtain specified endplay.
- Verify input/main bearing preload where applicable. Gear backlash and bearing preload specifications must be set to factory numbers — consult service manual for NV3550 specs and shim stacks.
- Install shift forks and rails; ensure correct orientation and smooth operation.
- When mating case halves, ensure no seals or synchro pieces are displaced; torque case bolts to spec in sequence.
8) Final assembly & installation
- Install external covers, speedo gear, and shifter assembly.
- Install new clutch release seal if removed. Refill with proper amount and grade of gear oil.
- Reinstall transmission to vehicle: align input shaft with clutch, slide into bellhousing, and torque bellhousing bolts to spec. Reinstall crossmember, mount, driveshafts, and linkage.
- Reconnect battery. Check for leaks; run through gears with vehicle securely raised to check shifting and lubrication distribution.
9) Break‑in and testing
- Road test at low speed. Listen for whining, grinding, or pops indicating incorrect syncros or bearing preload.
- After a short drive, recheck fluid level and torque on accessible fasteners.
How the important tools are used (short specifics)
- Hydraulic press: center shaft in press and use proper drivers to press bearings off shaft. Support the part so only the bearing/race is pressed. Use a backup fixture to avoid bending shafts.
- Bearing/puller: hook jaws behind inner race if possible. For pressed bearings, use a puller or drive out from opposite end with a drift after removing snap rings.
- Seal/bearing drivers: select a driver that matches outer race; tap evenly to seat without cocking.
- Snap‑ring pliers: expand/compress rings gently, avoid overstretching; use correct orientation (internal vs external).
- Dial indicator: fixture on a stable case surface, zero against a fixed surface, then move shaft to measure axial endplay/backlash. Record and adjust shims accordingly.
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Losing/reversing shims or snap rings: lay out parts in order and photograph each step. Mark shims and note thickness.
- Not replacing worn synchros/bearings: cheaper to replace during teardown than to re-open later. Worn synchros cause hard shifting and premature wear.
- Improper bearing installation: driving on rollers will destroy bearings — always drive on inner or outer race as appropriate.
- Skipping endplay/backlash setup: leads to premature bearing failure, noise, and gear failure. Always measure and set to factory spec.
- Overuse of RTV: too much sealant can enter oil passages. Use thin bead or gaskets as recommended.
- Reuse of old seals: always replace output and input seals when gearbox is open.
- Incorrect gear oil: use GL‑4 for synchronizer protection; GL‑5 can damage some synchro materials if additive chemistry is incompatible.
- Not supporting engine/trans properly: causes misalignment and difficulty installing bellhousing; be safe.
Replacement parts typically required
- Full bearing set (input, main, countershaft, output bearings).
- Synchro rings (complete synchro kit recommended).
- All seals (input, output, speedo if applicable) and case gaskets/RTV.
- Snap rings, shims (if out of spec), detent springs/balls, shift fork pads (or whole forks if worn).
- Any damaged gears/shafts as identified on inspection.
Final note
- The NV3550 rebuild requires accurate measurement of shims, endplay and bearing preload. If you do not have the factory torque/endplay specs and shim charts, obtain the Jeep service manual or a transmission rebuild manual for the NV3550 before reassembly. Follow torque sequences and values exactly.
No extra commentary. rteeqp73
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Tools & consumables
- Floor jack + 4 quality jack stands; wheel chocks
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack with adapter
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft·lb range)
- Socket/ratchet set, extensions, wrenches
- Pry bar, hammer, punch
- Long screwdriver / alignment punch for shifter/linkage
- Feeler gauges, straightedge
- 4-wheel alignment tools OR alignment rack (turn plates, camber/caster gauge, toe plates) + digital inclinometer/angle finder
- Adjustable control arm tool (if adjustable arms), tie rod end puller
- Universal joint/drive shaft pry bar and a centerline/angle finder for pinion angle
- Dial indicator (for driveshaft runout) or runout gauge (optional)
- Penetrating oil, anti-seize, Loctite
- Replacement parts: transmission mount(s), shifter bushings, linkage clips, control-arm bushings or adjustable arms (if worn), tie-rod ends, caster/camber bolts or shims as required, U-joints (if worn)
- Personal protective equipment: gloves, safety glasses
Safety precautions
- Park on flat level surface; block wheels; set parking brake.
- Support vehicle on jack stands under factory jacking points — never rely on the jack alone.
- Support transmission with a transmission jack before removing any mount or shifting the drivetrain.
- Wear eye protection when loosening bolts with penetrating oil or hammering.
- If using an alignment rack, confirm wheel chocks and rack interlocks are engaged.
Two interpretations — provide both (suspension/wheel alignment) and NV3550 transmission alignment/installation. Follow the section you need.
A. Wheel/suspension alignment (Jeep Wrangler)
Goal: correct toe, camber, caster and ensure all suspension components are tight and at correct ride height before final alignment.
Preparation (pre-checks)
1. Inflate tires to recommended spec and note tire sizes/pressure.
2. Check ride height left/right and front/rear; correct sag (bent springs, worn shackles affect alignment).
3. Inspect/replace worn components: tie-rod ends, drag link, ball joints, control-arm bushings, trackbar bushing, sway-bar links. Torque all fasteners to spec.
4. Ensure steering stops are intact; lubricate as needed.
5. Center the steering wheel roughly before measurements.
Alignment steps
1. Set vehicle on alignment rack / turn plates. If using floor methods, put front wheels on turn plates; rear wheels on fixed plates.
2. Measure and record current toe, camber, caster, thrust angle and ride height.
3. Adjust caster and camber:
- If adjustable upper control arm or track bar: loosen mounting bolts, adjust per manufacturer procedure to bring camber/caster into spec. Use cam bolt or adjustable arm to move alignment. Use digital inclinometer or camber/caster gauge on wheel hub.
- If non-adjustable, adjust with cam washers/shims or replace adjustable arm.
- Tighten bolts to torque with vehicle at ride height (suspend lower control arms/support to simulate weight if required).
4. Set toe:
- Adjust tie rod lengths equally to reach factory toe specification (usually a small amount of toe-in for Wranglers). Use toe plates or string method. Re-center steering wheel while adjusting.
5. Check thrust angle / rear toe if adjustable; adjust rear trackbar or shims as needed to align rear axle with chassis centerline.
6. Re-check all measurements iteratively — caster affects steering return; toe affects tire wear.
7. Road test: verify vehicle tracks straight at speed and steering wheel is centered. Re-check after test.
Common suspension pitfalls
- Aligning with worn components: results won’t hold — replace tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings first.
- Not torquing bolts at ride height: many suspension bolts must be torqued with vehicle on ground to avoid preloading bushings.
- Ignoring ride height: lowered or lifted Jeeps need corrected caster/camber settings or adjustable arms.
- Steering wheel not re-centered before toe adjustments.
- Failing to check pinion angle and driveshaft U-joints on lifted vehicles — vibrations after alignment often due to wrong driveline angles.
B. NV3550 gearbox (transmission) alignment & shifter/linkage alignment — installation-focused
Goal: correctly seat transmission to engine, align input shaft/clutch components, secure mount and center shifter linkage for proper gear engagement.
Preparation & parts to replace if worn
- New transmission mount(s) if cracked/deteriorated
- Shifter bushings, pivot bushings, linkage clips
- Pilot bearing/bushing (if removing transmission)
- Clutch pilot alignment tool (when reinstalling clutch or aligning input shaft)
- Throw-out bearing and clutch fork pivot (if service performed)
- Thread locker, anti-seize
Transmission removal/installation safety
1. Support transmission with transmission jack before removing mount or crossmember.
2. Disconnect battery negative.
3. Drain fluid if needed; cap openings to prevent contamination.
Step-by-step transmission alignment & installation
1. Prep: ensure clutch disc is centered on the flywheel using a clutch alignment tool if clutch removed. Clean bellhousing mating surfaces; inspect dowel pins for damage.
2. Support transmission on jack; position jack under transmission tail at appropriate mounting point. Raise so transmission centerline matches engine centerline.
3. Bring bellhousing flush with engine face; start bellhousing bolts by hand on dowel pins. Don’t force — if input shaft isn’t engaging, backing off and using a pry bar to nudge the transmission is okay but avoid damaging splines.
4. If input shaft won’t fully engage:
- Rotate the transmission input shaft slightly to engage clutch splines.
- Use the transmission jack to move unit fore/aft and up/down millimeter at a time.
- Use a short pry bar between engine block and transmission body to align bolts only if you’re sure dowels are seating and no obstruction present.
5. Once hand-started, torque bellhousing bolts to factory spec (consult service manual). Do not overtighten dowel-bolt holes.
6. Lower transmission slightly and install transmission mount/crossmember. Center mount bushings and torque mount bolts to spec.
7. Reinstall drive shafts; check slip yoke alignment to transfer case output (NV3550 often couples to NP231/NP242 — ensure correct orientation).
8. Refill transmission fluid to correct level specified in manual.
9. Shifter/linkage alignment:
- With vehicle off and parking brake on, put transmission in neutral.
- On top of gearbox, verify shifter shaft is centered. If aftermarket shifter or bushings replaced, follow manufacturer centering procedure.
- Install linkage/rod onto shifter arm with new bushings/clips. Ensure boot seals against body to prevent contamination.
- Shift through gears with engine off and observe linkage motion; correct binding or misalignment by loosening linkage at both ends and adjusting length so selector moves smoothly into each gear without forcing.
- For column-to-transmission linkages (if applicable), center steering wheel and set column to neutral before adjusting.
10. Verify clutch engagement/shift quality:
- With engine running, test engine at idle and try engaging each gear (with wheel chocked and in safe environment). Clutch must disengage fully for smooth shifts into 1st/reverse.
- If gear engagement is hard, check clutch adjustment/free-play, shifter bushings, or warped input shaft splines.
Driveshaft and pinion angle checks (important after reinstall)
1. Use an angle finder on the transmission output flange and differential pinion flange. For many Jeeps, pinion angle should be near parallel to transmission/transfer case output with a slight offset depending on lift.
2. Incorrect pinion angle causes vibrations and U-joint stress. Adjust by altering control arm length or using adjustable track bar or shims.
Tool usage specifics
- Transmission jack: carry the transmission, keep it level. Use the jack’s saddles and straps to prevent slipping. Small height adjustments move input shaft into pilot bearing.
- Clutch alignment tool: centers the clutch disc on the flywheel, allowing the input shaft to slide through smoothly.
- Dial indicator: measure driveshaft runout by rotating shaft; >0.010" runout indicates possible shaft or flange issues.
- Angle finder/inclinometer: measure pinion angle relative to transmission output flange and vehicle frame.
- Pry bar: used sparingly to align bellhousing bolt holes; apply force to edges, not to transmission case bosses, to avoid cracking.
Common transmission pitfalls
- Forcing bolts when dowel pins are misaligned — strips threads or breaks dowels.
- Not replacing worn mounts/shifter bushings — leads to sloppy shifts and vibration.
- Failing to center clutch disc before installation — will make input shaft insertion difficult and may cause clutch failure.
- Not supporting the transmission before unbolting mount — can cause sudden drop and injury/damage.
- Overlooking driveshaft pinion angle after a lift or mount replacement — causes driveline vibrations.
- Reusing old, soft shifter bushings — causes misalignment/false engagement.
Final checks
1. Torque all fasteners to factory specs (bellhousing, mount, crossmember, linkage).
2. Fill fluids and check for leaks.
3. Road test in safe area: test gear engagement, listen for unusual noises, check for vibration at various speeds.
4. Re-check after 100–200 miles for torque retention and wear.
The NV3550 is a medium-duty, 5-speed, constant mesh, fully synchronized manual transmission. The transmission is available in two and four-wheel drive configurations.
The Automatic Transmission 42RLE is a four-speed transmission that is a conventional hydraulic/mechanical assembly controlled with adaptive electronic controls and monitors.