1) Purpose and diagnosis (theory up front)
- Why flush: glycol-based brake fluids (DOT3/DOT4) are hygroscopic — they absorb water over time. Water lowers boiling point, promotes internal corrosion, and causes vapor pockets that compress under load → soft/spongy pedal, reduced stopping power, corrosion-damaged valves/cylinders. Flushing removes contaminated fluid and air, restores fluid boiling point and corrosion protection, and lets you find leaking or failing components.
- Confirm fault: spongy pedal, soft pedal that improves with pumping, discolored/black fluid in the reservoir, or >2 years since last change. If pedal stays low with no movement, suspect master cylinder failure or mechanical leak (flushing alone won’t fix internal leaks).

2) Safety and preparation
- Use correct fluid per vehicle spec (DOT3 or DOT4 from manufacturer). Never use DOT5 (silicone) in systems designed for glycol fluids.
- Protect paint and rubber (glycol fluids strip paint). Wear gloves and eye protection.
- Tools: fresh brake fluid, clear bleed hose, small catch bottle, appropriate spanners, turkey baster or syringe, vacuum/pressure bleeder or helper, clean rags, funnel, and optionally a master-cylinder bench-bleed kit.
- Park level, engine off, handbrake on, wheels chocked.

3) Inspect system before flushing
- Visually inspect lines, flexible hoses, calipers/wheel cylinders, master cylinder and fittings for leaks or corrosion. Flushing will not fix physical leaks—identify and replace leaking parts first.
- Note reservoir location and which wheel is farthest (farthest from master cylinder will be bled first). Theory: bleeding farthest first forces fluid and air through the longest path so air is pushed out systematically toward the master cylinder and out of the system.

4) Drain old fluid from reservoir
- Remove cap, clean around it to avoid contamination.
- Siphon or use turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir. Theory: minimizes mixing of very contaminated fluid with new fluid and reduces amount of old fluid pushed into lines.

5) Fill with new fluid and bench-bleed master cylinder if removed
- Fill reservoir with new fluid. If you have removed or replaced the master cylinder, bench-bleed it before installation (attach fittings and loop tubing back into the body, slowly pump piston until no air bubbles). Theory: the master cylinder contains internal passages that trap air; bench-bleeding ensures the heart of the hydraulic circuit is air-free before connecting to the rest of the lines.

6) Bleeding strategy (ordered sequence and why)
- Use the standard “farthest-first” approach: wheel farthest from the master cylinder → next farthest → next → nearest (typical order: right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front on many RHD vehicles; confirm for your vehicle). Theory: starting farthest forces air toward the master cylinder progressively, reducing chance of new air being pulled into already-bled lines.
- Choose method: manual two-person bleed, vacuum bleeder at each nipple, or pressure bleeder on the reservoir. All remove trapped air; pressure/ vacuum methods are faster and reduce pedal pumping which can draw air through a faulty master cylinder if its seals are bad.

7) Step-by-step bleed (manual two-person)
- Top up reservoir with new fluid, keep cap loosely on to avoid contaminant ingress.
- At the chosen wheel, fit clear hose to bleed nipple and route into a bottle partially filled with fluid (prevents air re-entry).
- Helper slowly depresses pedal to ~3/4 travel and holds. You press and open the bleed nipple briefly (~1–2 sec) to let fluid + air out, close nipple, then helper releases pedal. Repeat until fluid runs clear with no air bubbles, and pedal feels firmer between cycles. Theory: holding the pedal prevents air re-entry while the nipple is open; cycling forces new fluid through the entire branch and displaces air.
- Keep reservoir topped during the process. Never let it run dry — that allows air into the master cylinder and extends bleeding time.
- Repeat same procedure for each wheel in the prescribed order.

8) Using a vacuum or pressure bleeder (preferred)
- Vacuum bleeder: attach the vacuum pump hose to the bleed nipple, open nipple, draw until clear fluid with no bubbles; close nipple and move to next wheel. Theory: continuous negative pressure pulls fluid and air out without requiring pedal action.
- Pressure bleeder: pressurize reservoir to ~1–2 bar (check tool specs), open each nipple in order until clear fluid flows, then close. Theory: positive pressure pushes fluid through the system and out the bleed nipples, quickly displacing air.

9) Special notes for systems with a brake servo/booster or ABS
- Brake servo: if disconnected during any work, bleed the servo per manual (pump pedal with engine on/off as required) because the booster can trap air.
- ABS modules: these can trap air in valve bodies. If present, use a scanner with ABS bleed function or follow manufacturer procedure (often cycles valves while system is pressurized). Theory: ABS solenoid valves must be actuated to route fluid through internal channels so trapped air can be expelled.

10) Final checks and finishing
- After all four wheels are bled, top up reservoir to maximum level, securely fit cap.
- Have an assistant slowly depress the pedal — it should be firm and not sink under steady pressure. If pedal continues to sink, suspect master cylinder internal leak (bypass) or external leak—replace master cylinder.
- Road test at low speed in a safe area, confirm firm pedal and effective braking. Recheck for external leaks and fluid level after test, then re-torque bleed nipples if needed.

11) How the repair (flush + bleed) fixes the fault (concise)
- Removes water and contaminated fluid that reduce boiling point and cause internal corrosion. That restores thermal stability and corrosion protection.
- Expels trapped compressible air pockets that cause pedal sponginess because air compresses under pressure; replacing with incompressible fluid makes the hydraulic system transmit force properly → firm pedal and predictable braking.
- Allows inspection and detection of leaks or failing components (fluid color, presence of metal particles). If flushing reveals ongoing loss of pressure or persistent aeration, that identifies failing master cylinder, leaking hoses, or ABS valve problems to be repaired.

12) Disposal and cautions
- Dispose of old fluid per local hazardous-waste rules. Do not pour on ground.
- If brake pedal is still soft after a proper flush and bleed, stop—do not rely on the vehicle. Replace master cylinder or repair leaks/components as indicated.

End.
rteeqp73

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