Contents
1 General information
2 Specifications
3 Cylinder head assembly
4 Piston and connecting rod assemblies
5 Crankshaft assembly
6 Timing case and drive assembly
7 Cylinder block assembly
8 Engine timing
9 Aspiration system
10 Lubrication system
11 Fuel system
12 Cooling system
13 Flywheel and housing
14 Electrical equipment
15 Auxiliary equipment
16 Special tools
Perkins 400 series diesel engines Diesel 403C-11 403C-15 404C-22 404C-22T factory workshop and repair manual
Tools & PPE (minimum)
- Hydraulic floor jack (rated for vehicle weight) + quality jack stands (4) and wheel chocks.
- Torque wrench (0–200+ ft·lb range), breaker bar, calibrated socket set, impact wrench (optional).
- Ratchet, combination wrench set, hex/Allen, Torx as needed.
- Spring compressor (for coil springs/strut assemblies) — rated for vehicle coils.
- Ball-joint / tie-rod separator (pickle fork or puller), pitman arm puller if needed.
- Pry bar, dead-blow hammer, rubber mallet.
- Bench/hand grinder or cut-off for clearance (if trimming required).
- Drill/driver and assorted drill bits.
- Punches, hammer, C-clamp, large screwdriver.
- Torque-lube/anti-seize and thread locker.
- Safety gloves, eye protection, shop rags, drip tray.
- Brake line relocation kit / hose extension tools (if fabricating).
Typical replacement parts included/required by lift
- Lift kit components (spacers, blocks, shackles, new u-bolts, brackets) — per kit.
- Longer shocks or remote-reservoir shocks matched to lift height.
- Extended brake hoses or brake-line relocation brackets.
- Track bar relocation bracket or new adjustable track bar.
- Swaybar end links (longer) or drop brackets.
- Pitman arm drop or steering knuckle drop (to correct steering geometry) or adjustable drag link/tie rod.
- U-bolts (new, correct grade for axle), nuts and washers, torque plates if used.
- Bump stop extensions or new bump stops.
- Replacement control arms or adjustable control arms if required by amount of lift.
- Possible new CV axles or driveshaft modification for large lifts.
- New wheel bearings/ball joints if worn (inspect and replace as necessary).
Safety & preparation (non-negotiable)
- Work only on level, solid surface. Chock wheels opposite end. Set parking brake and disconnect battery for brake line/ABS work.
- Use rated jack stands under frame (not under axle) and verify stability before removing wheels or supporting suspension.
- Use spring compressors for any coil spring removal; never remove compressed spring retainers without proper tool and technique.
- Support axle with jack before disconnecting springs/shocks to prevent sudden drop.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Have a fire extinguisher nearby when grinding or welding.
- Follow torque values from vehicle factory manual or lift kit instructions. Do not guess torques.
Step-by-step procedure (generic front and rear lift; follow kit-specific instructions where supplied)
1) Document baseline
- Photograph suspension, brake/steering routing. Measure current ride height (hub center to fender or specified points) and record. This helps alignment and troubleshooting.
2) Prep vehicle
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly. Jack vehicle, place on stands under frame rails securely. Remove wheels.
3) Front disassembly
- Support lower control arm/axle with jack.
- Disconnect sway bar end links (unbolt upper or lower end, hang bar aside), brake caliper & secure with wire (do not let hang on hose), remove rotor if needed.
- Separate tie-rod end from steering knuckle with puller; remove cotter pins.
- Disconnect track bar from frame or axle (if one exists) and allow axle to move.
- Remove lower shock bolt(s) and/or unbolt strut top if doing strut-type lift.
- If coil springs: compress spring with proper spring compressor per tool instructions until loose; remove top mount nuts and carefully relieve compressor and remove spring. If installing strut spacer, unbolt top strut mount studs and install spacer and longer hardware per kit.
- If coil-over or new coil springs are in kit, swap components as instructed; reuse rubber isolators or replace if damaged.
How the spring compressor is used
- Place compressor forks opposite each other on spring coils, three+ turns apart, ensuring hooks grab coil squarely. Alternate turns on compressor screws as you compress evenly. Compress only enough to relieve spring seat pressure, then remove top mount nuts. When reinstalling, decompress slowly and verify spring seats correctly in isolators.
4) Rear disassembly (leaf springs or coil rear; adjust method)
- For leaf-spring lifts using blocks: Support axle with jack, remove U-bolts (replace with new ones). Lower axle from spring pack slightly, insert lift block between axle perch and spring, align key, install new longer U-bolts and torque per kit specs.
- For shackles: unbolt rear shackle and replace with included longer shackle hardware or install relocated shackle per instructions.
- For coil rear: same coil removal procedure as front; install new springs or spacer kits with spring compressor.
How to use U-bolts & torque wrench
- Use new grade-matched U-bolts sized for lift height. Finger-start nuts, then torque in a star pattern to kit/manufacturer specification with calibrated torque wrench. Re-torque after initial road test and at 100–500 miles.
5) Steering geometry corrections
- Install any pitman arm drop, drag link drop, or adjustable drag link/tie rod included. For larger lifts, replace track bar with adjustable unit or install relocation bracket to recenter axle. Ensure steering stops allow full lock without binding.
- If kit includes tie-rod or drag link spacers, install per instructions and torque to spec.
6) Brake line and ABS sensor routing
- Install extended brake hoses or relocation brackets. Route lines so they remain slack at full droop and full compression and do not contact hot or moving parts. Secure with supplied clamps.
- Replace any hard line brackets if needed. Bleed brakes if lines were opened.
7) Shock installation & bump stops
- Fit new longer shocks. Ensure shocks are oriented correctly (some have reservoirs or valving orientation). Torque mounting bolts to spec.
- Install bump stop extensions so full compression does not allow coil to seat on strut or damage.
8) Reassembly & checks
- Reinstall rotors/calipers and wheels. Torque wheel lug nuts to factory spec with vehicle on the ground.
- Lower vehicle onto the driveway or ground using jack, then remove stands.
- Check for binding/wire clearance with steering full-left and full-right and with suspension at full droop and full compression (safely supported if necessary).
- Check brake hose slack at full droop/lock.
9) Final torque & alignment
- Torque all installed fasteners (U-bolts, control arm bolts, track bar bolts, shock bolts) to kit or factory specs. Re-check after 50–100 miles of driving and again at 500 miles.
- Get a professional 4-wheel alignment immediately after installation. Expect toe, camber, and possibly caster changes requiring adjustable components.
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not replacing U-bolts and hardware: always replace with kit-specified grade and length.
- Ignoring brake hose length: failure leads to a brake hose snap at droop — use extended hoses or relocator brackets.
- Poor steering geometry correction: leaving drag link/track bar stock causes bump steer and premature component wear. Install supplied steering correction parts or adjustable components.
- Unsafe coil spring removal: never remove top nuts with spring under load — use rated spring compressor.
- Not checking CV/driveshaft angles: Excessive angle causes vibration and premature joint failure; replace CV axles or install drop brackets if necessary.
- Reusing worn components: old ball joints, bushings, tie rods will fail quickly when load stresses change. Replace worn parts before or during lift.
- Improper torquing: under- or over-torquing U-bolts and control arm bolts causes failure or damage. Use torque wrench and proper sequence.
- Skipping alignment: will cause uneven tire wear and poor handling.
Break-in & maintenance
- Re-torque U-bolts and major fasteners after 50–100 miles, again after 500 miles.
- Inspect for leaks, brake-line wear, shock mounts, and any rubbing after first week of driving.
- Expect a professional alignment and possibly camber/caster correction arms if necessary.
Notes specific to Perkins 400-series powered vehicles
- The engine itself (Perkins 403C/404C) is not affected directly by suspension lift, but ensure engine mounts, exhaust routing, and transmission/driveshaft angles are inspected after any lift. Watch for clearance at fan shroud, radiator hoses, and transmission crossmember if vehicle ride height is increased significantly.
Bottom line
- Follow kit-specific instructions; use correct tools (spring compressor, torque wrench). Replace U-bolts, shocks, brake hoses, and worn steering/suspension components. Correct steering geometry and perform an alignment. Safety-first: support axle/frame properly and never improvise when handling compressed springs or heavy components. rteeqp73
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