Below is a practical, step‑by‑step repair procedure for a dual‑clutch transmission (DCT) fitted to a Toyota running the 5S‑FE engine. Treat this as a workshop procedure — exact bolt torques, shim values, and machine tolerances must be verified from the exact vehicle/service manual for the DCT model you’re working on. Tools and steps below are industry standard for DCT clutch/actuator repairs.

SUMMARY (one line)
- Diagnose with scan tool → drain & remove transmission → disassemble mechatronic/clutch packs → replace worn parts/seals/bearings → reassemble, refill, adapt/bleed, road test.

Tools & consumables
- Full metric hand tool set (ratchets, extensions, 6‑point sockets 8–24 mm)
- Breaker bar, torque wrench (range to at least 200 Nm)
- Transmission jack or heavy duty floor jack + wood blocks
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (to support engine if trans removed)
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Line wrenches for hydraulic lines
- Pry bars, seal puller, picks
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers (internal & external)
- Bearing puller / gear puller
- Hydraulic press (for bearing races, if needed)
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (endplay/backlash checks)
- Feeler gauges
- Clutch alignment rod/tool (long pilot tool for input spline alignment)
- Fluid transfer pump and drain pan
- Clean lint‑free rags, solvent (parts cleaner)
- New transmission fluid (exact spec for DCT), new filter/strainers, gaskets, seals
- Service manual for torque specs & procedures; Toyota Techstream or compatible OBDII scanner with DCT adaptation/service functions
- Multimeter
- Seal drivers, drift punches, rubber mallet
- Threadlocker (per manual), new fasteners where specified
- Personal protective equipment (safety glasses, gloves)

Safety precautions
- Park on flat level surface, chock wheels, apply parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery lead and keep it disconnected while removing electrical connectors.
- Support vehicle securely on 4 jack stands rated for weight OR use a lift.
- Use engine support when the transmission is separated from the engine (do not let engine sag).
- Keep work area clean to avoid contamination of clutch surfaces; DCT clutches are sensitive to grease/oil contamination (use gloves and clean rags).
- Mark and bag electrical connectors and bolts; organize parts.
- Do not spin DCT components with no lubrication — keep parts wet or protected.
- Dispose of old fluid properly.

Preliminary diagnostic and preparation
1. Confirm symptoms and read fault codes with Techstream or equivalent. Log transmission fault codes, adaptation values, clutch temperatures, valve body errors, and actuator errors.
2. Check fluid level and condition. DCT wet packs will have friction material wear/metal in fluid if failing.
3. Road test to reproduce symptoms (slips, harsh shifts, neutral at idle, failure to engage). Note until what gear/clutch.
4. Remove battery negative, let capacitors discharge for a few minutes.
5. If codes indicate mechatronic or solenoid faults, clear codes and retest. If persistent, plan for mechatronic unit inspection or replacement.

Removal of transmission (high level)
1. Raise vehicle safely, remove undercovers.
2. Drain transmission fluid into proper container (use pump or drain plug).
- Tool use: fluid pump to remove fluid cleanly; inspect fluid for metal flakes or burnt smell.
3. Remove wheels and axles (half‑shafts) from trans. Use axle puller or pry carefully at hub (support brake assembly).
4. Remove exhaust or cross‑pipes if obstructing access.
5. Disconnect electrical connectors to mechatronic, sensors (park/neutral switch, speed sensors), starter motor, wiring harnesses — label them.
6. Support engine with engine support bar or hoist.
7. Remove transmission mount(s) and brace(s).
8. Support transmission with transmission jack. Unbolt bellhousing bolts and gearbox bolts from block; separate transmission from engine. Carefully lower transmission.
- Tool use: transmission jack and a pry bar to break mating surfaces; watch for dowels and alignment tabs.

Splitting transmission & accessing clutches/mechatronic
Note: Many DCTs have an external mechatronic unit bolted to the casing. Some require removing the mechatronic first, others separate the case halves to access clutch packs. Cleanliness and careful handling of mechatronic electronics is critical.

1. Place transmission on bench, drain remaining fluid.
2. Remove external housings and covers (valve body cover, mechatronic bolts).
- Tool use: keep fasteners organized; photograph wiring/routes.
3. Remove mechatronic unit: unplug connectors, remove retaining bolts, pull unit straight off. Place on clean bench.
- Inspect the mechatronic casing for leaks, damaged connectors, signs of electrical faults or burnt solenoids.
4. Remove clutch actuators/selector forks as per service manual. Note orientation and detents.
5. Split case halves (follow factory sequence). Keep mating surfaces clean and protect internal components from debris.
- Tool use: pry carefully around case seam; support both halves with jacks. Place dowels for re‑assembly.

Clutch pack removal & inspection (wet vs dry)
- Identify whether the DCT is a wet‑clutch (clutches bathed in oil) or dry. Wet clutches wear differently (visible in fluid).
1. Remove clutch pack retaining fasteners, pressure plates, springs, and spacers in sequence.
- Tool use: snap ring pliers to remove retaining rings. Use socket and torque wrench to remove bolts.
2. Remove friction plates and steel plates; tag each stack so reassembly order is identical.
3. Inspect friction plate thickness and steel plate warpage. Measure friction material thickness and runout with dial indicator.
4. Inspect basket/hubs, splines, thrust washers, bearings, selector rings for wear, scoring, heat discoloration.
5. Inspect seals, input shaft bearing, output shaft bearings, and synchronizers (if present) — replace bearings with any play.
6. If wet clutches: check fluid for metal particulates; if heavy contamination, plan for full fluid circuit flush and new filter/strainer.

Parts normally replaced
- Clutch friction plates and steel plates (replace entire set if worn).
- Pressure plates and pressure springs (if weak or warped).
- Seals and gaskets (always replace).
- Input/output shaft bearings with any play or damage.
- Mechatronic gaskets and filters/strainers.
- Valve body or solenoid pack if electrical/hydraulic faults are present.
- O‑rings and hydraulic hoses where cracked.
- Transmission fluid (mandatory).
- Fasteners specified as torque‑to‑yield or stretch bolts (replace per manual).
- Any damaged sensors (speed sensors, temperature sensor).

How to use key tools in clutch replacement
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress and remove internal/external snaps to free clutch hub and retainers.
- Bearing puller/press: extract pressed bearings from shafts and press new ones on squarely; use drift/seal driver for races.
- Dial indicator: check axial endplay on input shafts and measure backlash between gear sets; verify against manual specs.
- Clutch alignment rod: insert through clutch stack to align friction plates on input spline so transmission mates back to engine without damaging splines.
- Torque wrench: torque bolts in correct sequence and to exact values; apply threadlocker where specified.
- Techstream/scanner: perform DCT adaptation/initialization and clutch calibration after reassembly; cycle solenoids and read pressures.

Mechatronic and hydraulic system service
1. Inspect mechatronic printed circuit board (only open if trained) for corrosion, burnt areas.
2. Replace mechatronic valve body gaskets and strainer/filter.
3. If solenoids are faulty, replace solenoid pack or entire mechatronic assembly (reprogramming often required).
4. Clean hydraulic passages carefully; reuse any one‑time filters only if allowed — otherwise replace.
5. Reinstall mechatronic, torque bolts to spec; reconnect all electrical connectors with dielectric grease on exposed terminals if allowed.

Reassembly
1. Reassemble clutch packs in the exact reverse order. Ensure no contamination of friction surfaces.
2. Install new seals/gaskets on case; use a thin coat of specified fluid on seals to prevent dry starts.
3. Mate case halves and torque bolts in correct cross pattern to specified torque.
4. Reinstall transmission to engine with alignment tool; ensure dowels engage and clutch pack aligned so input shaft slides in smoothly.
5. Reconnect mounts, axles, wiring, lines, starter, exhaust as removed. Reinstall battery cable last.
6. Refill with correct DCT fluid to specified level. Many DCTs require engine running and warm fluid to set correct level — follow procedure exactly (often level at operating temperature with engine idling and parking brake on).

Bleeding, adaptation & testing
1. Use Techstream or recommended scanner to perform DCT adaptation/initialization sequences and bleed hydraulic circuits (some DCTs perform automatic self‑bleed via software).
2. Check for leaks with engine running and transmission in Neutral (idle).
3. Monitor fluid temperature and pressure readings, clutch engagement behavior via scanner if possible.
4. Test drive with incremental load and monitor shifting; check for codes and clutch slip.
5. Recheck fluid level and top up if required after test drive and rewarm.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Contaminating clutch friction surfaces (oil/grease): wear gloves, keep parts covered; never use lubricants on friction faces.
- Reusing old seals or gaskets: always replace.
- Not replacing worn bearings or seals: will cause repeat failure.
- Incorrect fluid type or not changing fluid/filter: DCTs are fluid‑sensitive; always use specified fluid and replace filter/strainer.
- Improper torque or incorrect bolt reuse (stretch bolts): consult manual and replace one‑time bolts.
- Forgetting to perform electronic adaptation/calibration: results in harsh shifts, limp mode, incorrect clutch engagement.
- Ignoring mechatronic faults: replacing clutches without fixing solenoids/valves can waste parts.
- Poor cleanliness during reassembly: metal shavings or dirt will destroy clutches/valves; blast cases with solvent and blow dry with compressed air.
- Mismatched plate sets or incorrect plate order: tag plates during disassembly and reassemble in exact order.
- Not supporting engine properly: damaging mounts or causing misalignment on reinstallation.

Final checks
- Confirm no codes, proper fluid level, no leaks.
- Re‑check torque on critical bolts after a short test drive.
- Recommend a second road test under typical load conditions and reinspect fluid for any debris.

If replacement parts are required (most common)
- Clutch friction & steel plate set (both clutches if either is heavily worn)
- Pressure plates, springs, retaining rings
- Input/output shaft bearings and seals
- Mechatronic valve body or solenoid pack (if electrical/hydraulic faults)
- Filter/strainer, gaskets, O‑rings, bolts per manual
- Full quantity of specified DCT fluid (consult service manual for volume and type)

Closing note (actionable)
- Follow the exact factory service manual for that DCT model for torque, shims, and adaptation steps. Use Techstream or equivalent for calibration. Keep the workspace and parts clean; missing this is the most common reason for rework.

End.
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