1) Purpose and failure modes (theory)
- The differential transmits engine torque to the drive wheels while allowing them to rotate at different speeds in turns. Internally it consists of the ring gear driven by the pinion, carrier with spider gears, bearings and seals.
- Proper operation needs correct tooth alignment (pinion depth and backlash), bearing preload, and a continuous hydrodynamic film of gear oil.
- Common faults: whining/growling (wrong pinion depth/backlash or worn bearings), clunks/shocks (excessive backlash, worn spider/side gears or loose mounts), metal in oil (bearing/gear wear), leaks (worn axle or cover seals). Faults are either lubrication-related, alignment/preload related, or caused by worn/damaged components.

2) Diagnose and interpret symptoms (what symptoms tell you)
- High‑speed whine increasing with vehicle speed: pinion depth or ring/pinion wear, or worn pinion bearings.
- Low/rumbling growl: worn ring gear teeth or carrier bearings.
- Clunk on acceleration/deceleration: excess backlash or worn spider gears/axle splines.
- Metal flakes or heavy scoring in fluid: active gear or bearing wear (not cured by oil change).
- Visible oil leak or low level: bad seal/gasket or loose/faulty drain/fill plug.

3) Gather parts/tools and choose correct fluid (why it matters)
- Tools: jack stands, drain pan, ratchets, torque wrench, gasket scraper, seal puller, bearing tools if doing bearings, dial indicator for backlash, marking compound for tooth pattern checking.
- Consumables: correct differential gear oil per vehicle/transmission type (use Toyota spec for the exact model — wrong additive packages (GL‑4 vs GL‑5) can damage yellow metals or synchronizers), new fill/drain plug crush washers, cover gasket or RTV, axle seals if leaking.
- Why correct fluid: viscosity and additive package maintain the lubrication film and protect gears/bearings; wrong oil changes friction and wear behavior.

4) Prepare and access (order)
- Park on level surface, chock, raise and support vehicle securely, remove wheels/axles if needed to access differential.
- Always remove fill plug before drain to confirm you can refill.

5) Drain and initial inspection (what to look for and why)
- Remove fill plug, then drain plug or loosen/remove differential cover to drain oil.
- Inspect fluid color/odor: dark/burnt = overheating/wear. Smell of burnt indicates overheating.
- Inspect drain pan and cover magnets: small fine filings are normal; substantial chunks, heavy scoring or thicker shavings indicate gear failure.
- Remove cover and visually inspect ring gear teeth, pinion, bearings and carrier for pitting, scoring, missing teeth, discoloration (overheat) or bearing cage failure. These observations tell you whether a fluid change/seal replacement is enough or a rebuild is required.

6) Detailed inspection and measurement (theory behind checks)
- Check side play/backlash with dial indicator: excessive backlash → loose fit or worn gears; too little → binding. Correct backlash is critical to tooth contact.
- Check bearing play and noise by spinning and feeling bearings; check for endplay.
- Use gear marking compound to check ring & pinion tooth contact pattern (this shows pinion depth and lateral position). A pattern too close to toe/heel or on the edge means incorrect pinion depth or carrier shims.
- Theory: correct tooth pattern ensures the load is carried across the appropriate area of the gear teeth; incorrect pattern causes localized wear, noise, and shortened life.

7) Decide repair level (service vs rebuild) and perform repairs in order
- If only fluid is contaminated, seals are intact and teeth/bearings look OK: replace fluid, replace gasket/seal, torque and fill. This restores lubrication and removes abrasives that accelerate wear.
- If leak is only from cover or axle seal: replace gasket/seal and fluid. This stops contamination/low‑level problems.
- If bearings or gears are worn, replace bearings and/or ring and pinion and set pinion depth/backlash and bearing preload correctly. Order: press/repack bearings, fit ring gear to carrier, set pinion depth (shims or crush sleeve), set backlash by carrier shims, check tooth pattern and adjust until pattern is centered. This restores geometry and bearing preload so gears mesh correctly and bearings carry loads without excessive play.
- If spider gears, axle splines or seals are damaged, replace those components; excessive axial play or worn splines cause clunks and will continue until replaced.

8) Reassembly and sealing (why done this way)
- Clean mating surfaces, install new gasket or use specified sealant, torque cover/axle bolts to spec. Replace crush washers/fill plug seals. Proper torque prevents leaks and maintains housing alignment.
- Reinstall axle/halfshaft, ensuring splines are clean and seals are not damaged.

9) Refill to correct level (why level matters)
- Fill through the fill hole until lubricant is level with the bottom of the hole (or to specified capacity). Correct level ensures gears and bearings are lubricated without aeration from overfilling. Insufficient oil causes starvation; overfill causes churning, heat and seal extrusion.

10) Test and verify (final proof)
- Lower vehicle, torque fasteners again if needed, test drive under varied loads. Recheck for leaks and re‑listen for noises. Recheck fluid level after a short test drive if specified. If noise persists, the problem is geometric/wear related and requires dismantling and proper backlash/pinion depth correction or component replacement.

How each repair action fixes the underlying faults (summary)
- Drain and replace oil: removes abrasive particles and restores full film lubrication; reduces noise from insufficient lubrication and prevents continued wear.
- Replace seals/gasket: stops ingress of contaminants and loss of lubricant, preventing lubrication starvation and corrosion.
- Replace bearings and restore preload: removes play and restores correct bearing support for the pinion and carrier so gear teeth maintain designed contact, eliminating backlash noise and uneven wear.
- Replace/set ring & pinion and adjust backlash/pinion depth: restores correct tooth contact pattern so load is distributed across the gear face rather than concentrated on edges; this eliminates whining/growl and prevents accelerated tooth failure.
- Clean magnets and housing: removes ferrous sludge that acts like an abrasive between gear surfaces.

When a simple service is insufficient
- If visual inspection shows pitting, heavy scoring, broken teeth, or large metal chunks, a fluid change/seal replacement is a temporary measure only; correct fix is component replacement and re‑setting gear geometry (often requires a machine shop). Repeatedly running with damaged gears will destroy new oil and bearings quickly.

Practical cautions
- Always use factory service manual procedures and torque specs for your exact vehicle/transmission. Setting pinion depth and backlash correctly requires special tools and measured shims/crush sleeves — do not guess.
- If unsure about tooth pattern or bearing preload, have a differential rebuild done by a shop experienced with ring & pinion setup.

That is the ordered procedure with the underlying theory and how each repair action cures specific faults.
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Overlook info Toyota 5S-FE 2.2 liter engine Overlook info Toyota 5S-FE 2.2 liter engine.

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