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Toyota 5S-FE engine factory workshop and repair manual download
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Toyota 5S-FE engine factory workshop and repair manual downloadon PDF can be viewed using free PDF reader like adobe , or foxit or nitro . It is compressed as a zip file which you can extract with 7zip File size 9 Mb Searchable PDF document with bookmarks. Contents General Toyota 5S-FE engine factory workshop and repair manual download |
Goal: Replace and correctly adjust the throttle (accelerator) cable on a Toyota 5S-FE so the pedal moves the throttle smoothly, returns reliably, and idle/driveability are normal. Below is a beginner-friendly, step‑by‑step guide with full component descriptions, why the work is needed, how the system works, common failure modes, and safety checks.
Safety first
- Work on a cool engine, in park (or neutral) with the parking brake set.
- Use wheel chocks if needed.
- Don’t leave the engine running while you’re disconnecting parts unless the step explicitly calls for it.
- Keep fingers/loose clothing away from moving throttle linkage when testing.
- Wear gloves and eye protection.
What the parts are and what they do (every component you’ll touch)
- Accelerator pedal assembly (pedal, return spring, cable end fitting/pin): your foot presses this; it pulls the cable. Think of the pedal as the handle you pull to open the gas valve.
- Throttle cable inner wire (bare steel wire): transmits motion from pedal to throttle body. Think of it like a bicycle brake cable, sliding inside the outer sheath.
- Cable outer sheath (jacket housing with end fittings): holds the inner wire and provides a reaction point so pulling the wire moves the throttle instead of the sheath moving. Like the plastic tubing around a bike brake cable.
- Firewall grommet/retainer: seals and positions the cable where it passes through the firewall.
- Cable mounting bracket(s) and adjuster (locknut and adjuster barrel or threaded stud): anchor and let you change cable tension/free‑play.
- Throttle body and throttle lever (butterfly valve/shaft and return spring): the throttle body has a butterfly plate that opens to let more air in; the cable pulls the throttle lever to open it. The return spring snaps it back closed like a valve spring.
- Throttle position sensor (TPS): electrical sensor mounted on the throttle body that tells the ECU throttle angle; not part of the cable but affected by cable position.
- Idle Air Control (IAC) valve or stepper motor (if fitted): controls idle air bypass; reacts to throttle position.
- Cruise control cable (if equipped): a separate cable that connects to the throttle linkage; must be reconnected in the same way.
- Clips/pins/retainers: small parts that secure cable ends to pedal and throttle lever.
Why this repair is needed (theory)
- The cable is the mechanical link between your foot and the throttle valve. Over time it can fray, stick, stretch, or the sheath can wear, producing:
- Excess free play (sloppy, delayed throttle response).
- Binding (slow return, stuck throttle plate).
- Snap/break (loss of throttle response) — dangerous.
- Incorrect resting position (throttle partially open → high idle).
- Proper adjustment ensures the throttle is fully closed at rest and has a small, controlled free play so you don’t hold the throttle open inadvertently. The TPS and ECU rely on a known closed throttle for correct fuel/air control at idle.
Common failure modes (what can go wrong)
- Frayed inner cable → sudden failure.
- Sheath worn or corroded → inner wire binds or sticks.
- Incorrect routing → chafing, heat damage, or binding (around sharp edges or hot parts).
- Loose or missing clips → cable slips out of bracket.
- Adjuster seized or incorrectly set → throttle not closed or too much free play.
- Weak return spring or heavy carbon on butterfly → throttle won’t return cleanly.
- After work: TPS out of position or crash data (DTC) if the throttle angle is wrong.
Tools and parts you’ll need
- New throttle cable (correct part for your year/model 5S‑FE vehicle).
- Basic hand tools: open/box wrenches (8–14 mm), socket set, screwdriver(s), pliers.
- Needle‑nose pliers and/or snap‑ring pliers for retaining clips.
- Wire brush or rag and penetrating lube.
- Light cable lubricant or thin silicone grease (if reusing cable; new cable typically pre‑lubed).
- Route marker (zip ties) and replacement grommet/retainers if damaged.
- Service manual or spec sheet for exact free‑play values (recommended).
High‑level procedure (overview)
1. Inspect and diagnose.
2. Remove air intake parts for access.
3. Disconnect cable at throttle body and pedal.
4. Remove old cable through firewall.
5. Route and install new cable.
6. Adjust free play and secure adjuster.
7. Recheck operation and road/test.
Detailed step‑by‑step procedure
1) Inspect and diagnose before you start
- Test pedal feel with engine off: press and release — should move smoothly and return quickly. If it sticks or feels crunchy/frayed, replacement is justified.
- At the throttle body (engine off), observe the butterfly while pressing the pedal — it should move smoothly and return fully closed.
- Note cruise control cable presence and how it attaches — you’ll reattach it exactly the same.
2) Prepare vehicle and gain access
- Park, set the parking brake, chock wheels. Disconnect negative battery if you’ll be working near electrical sensors or if you prefer extra safety while manipulating cable/tps (optional but safe).
- Remove the air intake ducting or engine cover that blocks access to the throttle body and firewall cable entry. On many 5S‑FE installations you’ll remove the air cleaner box and an intake hose; this gives clear access to the throttle body and cable bracket.
3) Observe routing and mark things
- Before removing anything, trace the cable route from the pedal through the firewall to the throttle body. Take pictures or mark the cable and bracket locations. Good routing prevents binding and heat exposure.
4) Disconnect cable at throttle body
- Locate the cable end on the throttle lever. There’s typically a small cylindrical or mushroom‑shaped cable end held in a bracket or clip.
- Remove the retaining clip or pin (use needle‑nose pliers). Pull the cable end out of the throttle lever.
- If a cruise control cable is present, unhook or isolate it so you don’t inadvertently disconnect or tension it incorrectly.
5) Loosen adjuster and free cable at firewall
- Locate the adjuster nut or barrel at the throttle body or bracket. Loosen the locknut and back the adjuster out until it’s loose enough to remove tension.
- On the pedal side (inside cabin under dash), find where the cable attaches to the pedal. There is usually a retaining clip/pin holding the cable end to the pedal arm; remove it and free the cable.
- Pull the cable out through the firewall grommet. You may need to loosen a firewall bracket or remove a small plastic clip.
6) Remove cable from vehicle
- Carefully pull the cable from the engine bay side, guiding it out without snagging. Inspect grommet; replace if cracked.
7) Install new cable – routing and mounting
- Compare old and new cables to ensure length and end fittings match.
- Route the new cable exactly the same path as the old one. Make sure it doesn’t rub on sharp edges or sit on the exhaust manifold or other hot surfaces. Use existing clips or zip ties to secure it.
- Feed the cable through the firewall grommet into the cabin, then attach the pedal end: insert the cable end into the pedal arm and reassemble the retaining pin/clip. Ensure it sits in the pedal slot correctly.
- On the engine bay side, insert the cable end into the throttle lever and install the retaining clip/pin. Don’t fully tension yet.
8) Set preliminary adjustment
- With the adjuster loose (so cable has some slack), ensure the throttle is fully closed (butterfly seated) and pedal is at rest. The throttle return spring should hold it closed with no gaps.
- Tighten the adjuster slowly until a small amount of free play exists at the pedal. “Free play” = how much pedal movement occurs before the throttle begins to open. Typical values for many Toyota engines: pedal free play ~2–6 mm (or a few millimeters) at the pedal shaft/top — but confirm with your vehicle’s service manual for exact spec. The important principle: small free play so the butterfly is fully closed at rest, but not so tight that the throttle is held slightly open.
- Lock the adjuster nut once set.
9) Fine adjustments and checks (engine off first)
- With engine off, press the pedal slowly and watch throttle lever: it should open smoothly; release and it should snap closed quickly with no sticking.
- Check pedal to throttle correlation: full pedal press should bring throttle to full open, and no binding at mid travel.
10) Start engine and test idle/operation
- Start the engine. Let it warm to normal operating temperature. Observe idle: it should be steady and within normal range (refer to manual). If idle is too high, recheck that the throttle was not set too tight.
- Gently blip the throttle and release — throttle should return immediately to idle with no sticking or surging. If idle hunts or surges, check TPS connection and IAC operation; the cable adjustment may be incorrect or the butterfly may be dirty.
- With the car parked, hold the pedal and ask an assistant to watch throttle plate — it should match smoothly.
- Road test at low speed paying attention to throttle response, smooth acceleration, and idle.
Tips, cautions, and troubleshooting
- If the pedal is too tight after adjustment: you risk holding the throttle slightly open → high idle and dangerous situations. Back off adjuster slightly until full closure at rest.
- If the pedal has excessive play: delayed throttle response and a vague feel. Tighten adjuster to reduce slack.
- Sticky return or slow return: check cable routing, sheath condition, and throttle plate carbon build‑up. Remove and clean throttle body if sticky (use throttle body cleaner per instructions).
- If cable end clips are damaged, replace them — they are cheap and critical.
- Don’t lubricate near TPS electrical connectors or let lubricant contaminate sensors.
- If the return spring is weak or missing, replace it — do NOT rely solely on a cable adjuster to close the throttle.
- If cruise control is present, make sure its bracket and cable are reinstalled exactly as before; misrouting can cause binding.
- If you see frayed cable strands near any anchor, replace the cable immediately — it can fail suddenly.
- After adjustment, clear any stored ECU codes if present and recheck; some vehicles may need TPS relearn or idle relearn procedures — consult service manual.
Analogy to help remember
- Think of the system like a window blind: the inner wire is the cord you pull, the sheath is the guide tube that holds the cord in place, the throttle plate is the blind slat that opens/closes, and the return spring is a spring that pulls the blind closed when you let go. If the cord is worn or routed badly, the blind won’t open or close smoothly — same idea.
Final checklist before you finish
- Cable routed correctly, secured with clips/zip ties.
- Grommet intact and cable not chafing firewall.
- Adjuster tightened and locked at the correct free play.
- Throttle returns fully closed at rest and opens smoothly.
- No binding, no strange noises.
- Engine idles normally and responds smoothly during test drive.
- Reinstall any removed intake components and reconnect battery (if disconnected).
That’s the complete beginner mechanic walkthrough to replace and adjust a throttle cable on a Toyota 5S‑FE. Follow the steps carefully, consult your vehicle’s service manual for exact free‑play specs and torque values, and if you’re uncomfortable at any step, get hands‑on help from an experienced mechanic.
rteeqp73
Safety first
- Work on a cool engine, in park (or neutral) with the parking brake set.
- Use wheel chocks if needed.
- Don’t leave the engine running while you’re disconnecting parts unless the step explicitly calls for it.
- Keep fingers/loose clothing away from moving throttle linkage when testing.
- Wear gloves and eye protection.
What the parts are and what they do (every component you’ll touch)
- Accelerator pedal assembly (pedal, return spring, cable end fitting/pin): your foot presses this; it pulls the cable. Think of the pedal as the handle you pull to open the gas valve.
- Throttle cable inner wire (bare steel wire): transmits motion from pedal to throttle body. Think of it like a bicycle brake cable, sliding inside the outer sheath.
- Cable outer sheath (jacket housing with end fittings): holds the inner wire and provides a reaction point so pulling the wire moves the throttle instead of the sheath moving. Like the plastic tubing around a bike brake cable.
- Firewall grommet/retainer: seals and positions the cable where it passes through the firewall.
- Cable mounting bracket(s) and adjuster (locknut and adjuster barrel or threaded stud): anchor and let you change cable tension/free‑play.
- Throttle body and throttle lever (butterfly valve/shaft and return spring): the throttle body has a butterfly plate that opens to let more air in; the cable pulls the throttle lever to open it. The return spring snaps it back closed like a valve spring.
- Throttle position sensor (TPS): electrical sensor mounted on the throttle body that tells the ECU throttle angle; not part of the cable but affected by cable position.
- Idle Air Control (IAC) valve or stepper motor (if fitted): controls idle air bypass; reacts to throttle position.
- Cruise control cable (if equipped): a separate cable that connects to the throttle linkage; must be reconnected in the same way.
- Clips/pins/retainers: small parts that secure cable ends to pedal and throttle lever.
Why this repair is needed (theory)
- The cable is the mechanical link between your foot and the throttle valve. Over time it can fray, stick, stretch, or the sheath can wear, producing:
- Excess free play (sloppy, delayed throttle response).
- Binding (slow return, stuck throttle plate).
- Snap/break (loss of throttle response) — dangerous.
- Incorrect resting position (throttle partially open → high idle).
- Proper adjustment ensures the throttle is fully closed at rest and has a small, controlled free play so you don’t hold the throttle open inadvertently. The TPS and ECU rely on a known closed throttle for correct fuel/air control at idle.
Common failure modes (what can go wrong)
- Frayed inner cable → sudden failure.
- Sheath worn or corroded → inner wire binds or sticks.
- Incorrect routing → chafing, heat damage, or binding (around sharp edges or hot parts).
- Loose or missing clips → cable slips out of bracket.
- Adjuster seized or incorrectly set → throttle not closed or too much free play.
- Weak return spring or heavy carbon on butterfly → throttle won’t return cleanly.
- After work: TPS out of position or crash data (DTC) if the throttle angle is wrong.
Tools and parts you’ll need
- New throttle cable (correct part for your year/model 5S‑FE vehicle).
- Basic hand tools: open/box wrenches (8–14 mm), socket set, screwdriver(s), pliers.
- Needle‑nose pliers and/or snap‑ring pliers for retaining clips.
- Wire brush or rag and penetrating lube.
- Light cable lubricant or thin silicone grease (if reusing cable; new cable typically pre‑lubed).
- Route marker (zip ties) and replacement grommet/retainers if damaged.
- Service manual or spec sheet for exact free‑play values (recommended).
High‑level procedure (overview)
1. Inspect and diagnose.
2. Remove air intake parts for access.
3. Disconnect cable at throttle body and pedal.
4. Remove old cable through firewall.
5. Route and install new cable.
6. Adjust free play and secure adjuster.
7. Recheck operation and road/test.
Detailed step‑by‑step procedure
1) Inspect and diagnose before you start
- Test pedal feel with engine off: press and release — should move smoothly and return quickly. If it sticks or feels crunchy/frayed, replacement is justified.
- At the throttle body (engine off), observe the butterfly while pressing the pedal — it should move smoothly and return fully closed.
- Note cruise control cable presence and how it attaches — you’ll reattach it exactly the same.
2) Prepare vehicle and gain access
- Park, set the parking brake, chock wheels. Disconnect negative battery if you’ll be working near electrical sensors or if you prefer extra safety while manipulating cable/tps (optional but safe).
- Remove the air intake ducting or engine cover that blocks access to the throttle body and firewall cable entry. On many 5S‑FE installations you’ll remove the air cleaner box and an intake hose; this gives clear access to the throttle body and cable bracket.
3) Observe routing and mark things
- Before removing anything, trace the cable route from the pedal through the firewall to the throttle body. Take pictures or mark the cable and bracket locations. Good routing prevents binding and heat exposure.
4) Disconnect cable at throttle body
- Locate the cable end on the throttle lever. There’s typically a small cylindrical or mushroom‑shaped cable end held in a bracket or clip.
- Remove the retaining clip or pin (use needle‑nose pliers). Pull the cable end out of the throttle lever.
- If a cruise control cable is present, unhook or isolate it so you don’t inadvertently disconnect or tension it incorrectly.
5) Loosen adjuster and free cable at firewall
- Locate the adjuster nut or barrel at the throttle body or bracket. Loosen the locknut and back the adjuster out until it’s loose enough to remove tension.
- On the pedal side (inside cabin under dash), find where the cable attaches to the pedal. There is usually a retaining clip/pin holding the cable end to the pedal arm; remove it and free the cable.
- Pull the cable out through the firewall grommet. You may need to loosen a firewall bracket or remove a small plastic clip.
6) Remove cable from vehicle
- Carefully pull the cable from the engine bay side, guiding it out without snagging. Inspect grommet; replace if cracked.
7) Install new cable – routing and mounting
- Compare old and new cables to ensure length and end fittings match.
- Route the new cable exactly the same path as the old one. Make sure it doesn’t rub on sharp edges or sit on the exhaust manifold or other hot surfaces. Use existing clips or zip ties to secure it.
- Feed the cable through the firewall grommet into the cabin, then attach the pedal end: insert the cable end into the pedal arm and reassemble the retaining pin/clip. Ensure it sits in the pedal slot correctly.
- On the engine bay side, insert the cable end into the throttle lever and install the retaining clip/pin. Don’t fully tension yet.
8) Set preliminary adjustment
- With the adjuster loose (so cable has some slack), ensure the throttle is fully closed (butterfly seated) and pedal is at rest. The throttle return spring should hold it closed with no gaps.
- Tighten the adjuster slowly until a small amount of free play exists at the pedal. “Free play” = how much pedal movement occurs before the throttle begins to open. Typical values for many Toyota engines: pedal free play ~2–6 mm (or a few millimeters) at the pedal shaft/top — but confirm with your vehicle’s service manual for exact spec. The important principle: small free play so the butterfly is fully closed at rest, but not so tight that the throttle is held slightly open.
- Lock the adjuster nut once set.
9) Fine adjustments and checks (engine off first)
- With engine off, press the pedal slowly and watch throttle lever: it should open smoothly; release and it should snap closed quickly with no sticking.
- Check pedal to throttle correlation: full pedal press should bring throttle to full open, and no binding at mid travel.
10) Start engine and test idle/operation
- Start the engine. Let it warm to normal operating temperature. Observe idle: it should be steady and within normal range (refer to manual). If idle is too high, recheck that the throttle was not set too tight.
- Gently blip the throttle and release — throttle should return immediately to idle with no sticking or surging. If idle hunts or surges, check TPS connection and IAC operation; the cable adjustment may be incorrect or the butterfly may be dirty.
- With the car parked, hold the pedal and ask an assistant to watch throttle plate — it should match smoothly.
- Road test at low speed paying attention to throttle response, smooth acceleration, and idle.
Tips, cautions, and troubleshooting
- If the pedal is too tight after adjustment: you risk holding the throttle slightly open → high idle and dangerous situations. Back off adjuster slightly until full closure at rest.
- If the pedal has excessive play: delayed throttle response and a vague feel. Tighten adjuster to reduce slack.
- Sticky return or slow return: check cable routing, sheath condition, and throttle plate carbon build‑up. Remove and clean throttle body if sticky (use throttle body cleaner per instructions).
- If cable end clips are damaged, replace them — they are cheap and critical.
- Don’t lubricate near TPS electrical connectors or let lubricant contaminate sensors.
- If the return spring is weak or missing, replace it — do NOT rely solely on a cable adjuster to close the throttle.
- If cruise control is present, make sure its bracket and cable are reinstalled exactly as before; misrouting can cause binding.
- If you see frayed cable strands near any anchor, replace the cable immediately — it can fail suddenly.
- After adjustment, clear any stored ECU codes if present and recheck; some vehicles may need TPS relearn or idle relearn procedures — consult service manual.
Analogy to help remember
- Think of the system like a window blind: the inner wire is the cord you pull, the sheath is the guide tube that holds the cord in place, the throttle plate is the blind slat that opens/closes, and the return spring is a spring that pulls the blind closed when you let go. If the cord is worn or routed badly, the blind won’t open or close smoothly — same idea.
Final checklist before you finish
- Cable routed correctly, secured with clips/zip ties.
- Grommet intact and cable not chafing firewall.
- Adjuster tightened and locked at the correct free play.
- Throttle returns fully closed at rest and opens smoothly.
- No binding, no strange noises.
- Engine idles normally and responds smoothly during test drive.
- Reinstall any removed intake components and reconnect battery (if disconnected).
That’s the complete beginner mechanic walkthrough to replace and adjust a throttle cable on a Toyota 5S‑FE. Follow the steps carefully, consult your vehicle’s service manual for exact free‑play specs and torque values, and if you’re uncomfortable at any step, get hands‑on help from an experienced mechanic.
rteeqp73
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