Tools & safety (short)
- Floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks; spring compressor (if not using complete strut cartridge); 1/2" and 3/8" ratchets, breaker bar, metric sockets and wrenches, torque wrench, pry bar, hammer, PB blaster. Safety glasses and gloves. Battery negative terminal disconnected if working near ABS wiring.
- WARNING: compressed coil springs store lethal energy. Use a proper compressor or buy a complete replacement strut assembly.

Theory summary (very short)
- A MacPherson strut combines a damper (controls oscillation), a coil spring (supports vehicle weight and sets ride height), and a top mount/bearing (locates the strut and allows steering rotation). When the damper leaks or valving fails you get excessive bounce, poor control, longer stopping distances, uneven tire wear, and noises. Replacing the strut restores damping, spring seat condition, and correct structural support at the strut tower — returning ride height, control, and steering geometry stability.

Ordered procedure with theory for each action

1) Prepare vehicle and safety
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly with vehicle on ground.
- Theory: prevents vehicle movement and lets you remove wheel easily.

2) Raise vehicle and remove wheel
- Jack the car, secure on stands at jacking points, remove wheel.
- Theory: gives access to strut assembly and hub/knuckle.

3) Inspect components before disassembly
- Visually check strut for oil leaks, torn boot, collapsed spring, play in top mount, sway bar link/ball joints/inner tie rod for play.
- Theory: confirms symptoms and identifies other worn parts to replace while apart.

4) Disconnect sway bar end link and stabilizer links
- Remove nut/bolt connecting end link to strut/knuckle.
- Theory: allows knuckle/strut separation; sway bar transmits lateral loads, so remove to free suspension.

5) Unbolt brake hose/brackets and ABS sensor wire from strut/knuckle
- Remove any brackets that clamp brake hose to strut, and unclip ABS sensor wiring.
- Theory: frees components so they won’t be stretched or damaged during strut removal.

6) Support the lower control arm / hub assembly
- Place a jack or stand under the lower control arm or knuckle to support its weight when strut is removed.
- Theory: prevents suspension from dropping suddenly and keeps steering knuckle geometry stable.

7) Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle mounting bolts
- Remove the two lower bolts/nuts; if seized, apply penetrating oil and use breaker bar. Separate strut from knuckle; a sharp mallet or pickle fork may be needed.
- Theory: the lower bolts clamp the strut to the steering knuckle — separation frees the strut assembly.

8) Loosen but do not remove top strut nuts (optional)
- Slightly loosen top nuts in the engine bay so rotation is easier; leave nuts on a few turns until lower end is free.
- Theory: prevents the strut assembly from dropping when lower bolts are removed.

9) Remove top strut tower nuts and remove strut assembly
- Remove the upper three nuts in the strut tower (engine bay). Withdraw the whole strut assembly downwards.
- Theory: removes the structural link between chassis and wheel; assembly can now be serviced or replaced.

10) Decide replacement method: complete strut assembly or rebuild
- Prefer replacing with a complete new/re-manufactured strut assembly (pre-assembled with spring, mount) to avoid spring compressor use. If reusing spring, use a spring compressor and replace mount, bearing, bump stop, and boot.
- Theory: new assembly ensures correct damping, fresh seals, and preloaded spring; rebuilding requires correct preload and component condition.

11) If rebuilding: compress spring and disassemble strut
- Secure spring in compressor, compress evenly, remove center nut and top mount, relieve compressor and remove components. Replace strut cartridge, mount, bearing, bump stop, boot.
- Theory: spring preload supports vehicle weight; removing center nut relieves preload so you can replace damper and mount. Correct reassembly restores spring preload and alignment of mount/bearing so steering rotates smoothly.

12) Assemble new or rebuilt strut and set spring preload correctly
- Reinstall spring, seat properly, torque center nut to spec, ensure mount and bearing orientation correct. If using a complete assembly, skip compression steps.
- Theory: correct preload and secure center nut is critical to maintain ride height and prevent clunking from loose components.

13) Reinstall strut into strut tower, loosely thread top nuts
- Lift assembly into tower, start top nuts snug but not final torque.
- Theory: holds assembly in place while you align lower bolts; snug but not fully torqued allows settling.

14) Reattach lower strut to knuckle, torque bolts to spec
- Align strut with knuckle, insert bolts, tighten to factory torque.
- Theory: secures structural link that transmits braking, steering and lateral forces; correct torque prevents loosening or overstressing.

15) Torque top strut mount nuts to spec with vehicle at ride height
- Lower vehicle until suspension bears weight (or set jack under control arm to approximate ride height), then torque top nuts to spec.
- Theory: tightening mounts with the suspension at ride height prevents preloading/binding of the bearing and maintains correct spring seat height and steering alignment.

16) Reattach brake hose brackets, ABS wiring, sway bar link
- Secure all lines and links, torque fasteners.
- Theory: restores safe routing and prevents rubbing, line stress, or sensor damage.

17) Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel lug nuts to spec
- Torque to manufacturer spec in star pattern.
- Theory: correct wheel torque prevents hub distortion and wheel loosening.

18) Test drive and final inspection
- Short test drive, listen/feel for clunks, check steering response and ride. Inspect for leaks and recheck torque after 50–100 miles.
- Theory: confirms repair cured symptoms and that nothing loosened or is contacting.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Damping restored: replacing the damper restores the controlled fluid/valve friction that dissipates kinetic energy. That stops excessive bounce and body roll, improves tire contact and braking.
- Structural integrity restored: a new/top-mount eliminates play or broken mounts, removing clunks and restoring steering precision (top mounts and bearings allow the assembly to pivot cleanly).
- Ride height and geometry: replacing worn springs or preloaded assembly restores ride height and the intended suspension geometry (camber/toe more consistent).
- Safety: replacing worn struts restores predictable handling, reduces braking distance under load, and prevents accelerated tire/wear of other suspension parts.

Typical faults you fixed and their cause
- Oil leak on strut body → internal seals failed → lost damping.
- Excessive bounce after bump → valving/wear in damper.
- Clunking from top mount or loose spring seat → worn mount/bearing or broken retainer.
- Nose dive or increased roll → reduced damping and weakened springs.
- Uneven tire wear → geometry shifting due to sagged spring or worn mount.

Notes and cautions
- Always use a spring compressor if disassembling the strut; if unsure, buy a complete strut assembly.
- After replacing front struts, a wheel alignment is required to restore camber/toe to spec.
- Replace worn related parts (mounts, sway bar links, control arm bushings) discovered during inspection.
- Follow factory torque specs—consult the Toyota service manual for model/year-specific values.

End.
rteeqp73

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