What the front crankshaft seal does (theory), in plain terms
- The front crankshaft seal (a.k.a. front main oil seal) is a circular rubber/metal lip that seals the gap where the crankshaft exits the front of the engine. Think of it like a flexible weatherstrip on a car door: it lets the crankshaft spin while keeping engine oil inside the engine.
- If the seal fails you can get oil leaking out of the front of the engine, oil loss, oil contamination of belts/covering, mess, smoke, and eventually low oil that can damage the engine. A leaking front seal is often visible as oil dripping from the very front lower part of the engine or pooling on the ground.

Why this repair is needed
- Age and heat harden and crack the rubber lip.
- Abrasive particles, nicks on the crankshaft journal, or a misaligned/bent harmonic balancer can cut the lip.
- A failing harmonic balancer or excessive crankshaft runout will make the seal wear quickly.
- Improper installation or using the wrong seal will cause immediate leaks.

Key components you will see and what they do (every component in the immediate assembly)
- Crankshaft: main rotating shaft converting piston motion to rotation; has a machined journal where the seal presses against the rotating surface.
- Crankshaft journal (front): the polished surface the seal rides on. Must be smooth and undamaged.
- Woodruff key: small half-moon key cut into the crankshaft that aligns the pulley/harmonic balancer and transmits torque.
- Crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer (vibration damper): large circular pulley bolted to crank; usually has a rubber dampening layer; drives accessory belts and reduces torsional vibration. It covers the front seal.
- Crankshaft pulley bolt (center bolt): secures the balancer to the crankshaft. Often a high-torque, single-use bolt—replace if required.
- Crankshaft front oil seal: a metal case with a rubber lip that seals around the crank journal. May be seated in the timing cover or in a separate housing.
- Timing belt cover (front cover): plastic/metal covers over timing belt and seal housing; may have to be removed for access depending on method.
- Timing belt (if present): meshes with crank sprocket behind the cover; on 5S-FE it’s the timing belt that lives behind the cover (do not rotate engine with belt off unless following timing procedures).
- Tensioner/idler pulleys/water pump (nearby parts): visible when covers are off; consider inspection/replacement while you’re in there.
- Engine mounts/accessory brackets: sometimes removed or supported to gain access.
- Splash shield / undertray: often removed for access from below.

Common failure modes
- Hard/crumbled rubber lip from heat/age.
- Cut or nicked lip from debris or using the wrong removal tool.
- Scored/crushed crankshaft journal — if the journal is damaged the seal won't last.
- Failed harmonic balancer causing eccentric motion — wears seal.
- Seal installed backwards or driven in unevenly → leaks.
- Reusing a damaged or incorrect pulley bolt → loosening or damage.

Tools, parts & supplies (minimum)
- New OEM or high-quality front crankshaft seal for Toyota 5S-FE (confirm year/application).
- Socket set (including large socket for crank bolt), breaker bar, extensions. Crank bolt size varies by year — verify with manual.
- Torque wrench (capable of crank bolt torque).
- Harmonic balancer / crank pulley puller (3-jaw puller or Toyota puller).
- Seal puller or small hooked screwdriver (careful) and small prybar.
- Seal driver kit or a tube/large socket the same outer diameter as the seal (to tap seal in squarely).
- Penetrating oil, shop towels, cleaning solvent, engine oil (for lubricating seal lip).
- Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks (do not rely on jack alone).
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves.
- RTV gasket sealant if timing cover gasket or oil pan gasket disturbed (use correct Toyota spec).
- Replacement crank pulley bolt if required.
- Service manual or factory torque specs (strongly recommended).

Safety notes (read and follow)
- Work on a flat surface. Chock wheels and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when working near pulleys/hoses.
- If you remove/loosen the timing belt or its tensioner, lock or mark timing and follow the full timing-belt procedure—this engine is interference-type; incorrect timing can cause severe engine damage. If you must remove the timing belt, treat it as a separate major job.
- Keep hands/loose clothing away from moving parts if you run the engine for testing. Dispose of oil/contaminated rags properly.

Step‑by‑step procedure (typical method that avoids removing timing belt)
Note: This method removes the crank pulley/harmonic balancer and replaces the seal behind it. Some shops remove the timing cover for easier access — either way, always consult a factory manual for model year specifics and torque values.

1) Prepare car and workspace
- Park, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery.
- Raise front if needed and support on jack stands. Remove any splash shields blocking access.

2) Gain access
- Remove accessory drive belts (serpentine belt) and any interfering brackets if needed. On 5S-FE you may only need to remove belts; some years you can access pulley from the front.

3) Secure engine/lock crank if needed
- You’ll need to hold the crank from turning while breaking the crank bolt loose. Methods: use a large breaker bar through a socket on the crank bolt and have an assistant hold the brakes/put car in gear, or use an impact wrench, or use a crank holding tool / lock the flywheel via the inspection cover or by locking trans in gear (manual) — follow the shop manual. Be safe—using starter to break bolt loose is not recommended without proper methods.

4) Remove crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer
- Remove center crank bolt (may be very tight). Use appropriate socket and breaker or impact.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller to pull the balancer evenly off the crankshaft. Don’t pry on the pulley lip—use the puller. Keep track of woodruff key orientation and any spacers. Note the depth and orientation of the balancer when it comes off.

5) Inspect the crankshaft journal and balancer
- Clean the journal. Inspect for nicks, scoring, burrs or rust. Minor scratches can be smoothed with very fine emery cloth or light polishing, but deep scores require machine work or crank replacement. If you see heavy damage, stop and consult a machine shop.
- Inspect the balancer hub and woodruff key for wear that could cause eccentric motion.

6) Remove the old seal
- Use a proper seal puller or a hooked tool to pry the old seal out carefully from its housing. If the seal is in the timing cover, remove any timing cover bolts as needed (keep track of any gaskets). Be careful not to gouge the housing or the crankshaft journal. Remove any old gasket material and clean the seating surface.

7) Clean and measure
- Clean the housing bore thoroughly. Check the bore for burrs or damage. Measure the depth so you install new seal to same depth. Clean crankshaft journal and lightly oil it.

8) Install the new seal
- Lightly coat the new seal lip with clean engine oil. Position the seal with the open lip facing the crankshaft (lip toward oil). If the seal has a spring, the spring should be on the inside edge, contacting the crankshaft.
- Using a seal driver or a socket with the same outer diameter as the new seal, press the seal squarely into the housing. Tap gently and evenly around the circumference; don’t cock the seal. Drive until it is flush or at the OEM specified depth.

9) Reinstall harmonic balancer
- Verify the woodruff key is in place. Slide the balancer back onto the crankshaft (aligning the key). Sometimes you’ll need to use the crank bolt to draw the balancer on—thread the bolt in a few turns first to pull it on.
- Torque the crank bolt to factory spec. (Torque specs vary—many Toyota crank bolts are tightened to a high torque value plus an angle; check factory manual for the exact value and replacement recommendations. If you used an impact to remove the bolt you may need to replace it.)

10) Reassemble accessories and check
- Reinstall drive belts, splash shields, any covers removed. Reconnect battery. Lower vehicle. Top up engine oil if any was lost and run engine to operating temp and check for leaks. Recheck torque and leaks after a short test drive.

Practical tips and warnings
- Lubricate the seal lip with clean engine oil before installation. Do not use grease that will degrade the rubber.
- Use a proper seal driver — hitting the seal on one side or using a small socket can cock or tear the lip and cause immediate leaks.
- If you see repeated failures after replacement, check balancer runout (eccentricity), crankshaft endplay/runout, and engine mount condition—these can cause premature wear.
- If the timing belt or timing cover gasket is disturbed, replace timing belt and tensioner if it is near service interval—doing both at once is efficient.
- If the crank journal is damaged, replacing the seal is a temporary fix; a polish or crankshaft repair will be needed for longevity.
- If the harmonic balancer has internal rubber separation or wobble, replace it — don’t reinstall a bad balancer.

How to know the repair is successful
- After installation and a warm-up, the area where the seal sits should be dry. No oil should drip after a few thousand miles. Check again after the first 50–100 miles.
- Listen for unusual vibrations that could indicate balancer or installation problems.

When to consult a pro or stop and get help
- Deep groove or heavy scoring on the crank journal.
- Broken or missing woodruff key or severely corroded balancer.
- If you are unsure about removing the timing belt or re-timing the engine.
- If you don’t have proper tools (harmonic balancer puller, seal driver, torque wrench) — risking damage is common without them.

Final checklist before starting
- New OEM-correct seal on hand.
- Correct socket for crank bolt and torque wrench.
- Puller and seal driver or equivalent.
- Jack stands, battery disconnected, and safety gear.
- Manual/specs available to verify torque and any model-year specifics.

Concise troubleshooting for common problems
- Still leaking after install: seal may be reversed, cocked, or journal is damaged. Remove and inspect.
- Seal felt hard or brittle when removed: replace, and check for high under-hood temps or oil contamination that might cause hardening.
- Balancer difficult to reinstall: check woodruff key; don’t press with a hammer—use the crank bolt to draw it on evenly.

That’s the focused overview and step-by-step for replacing the front crankshaft seal on a Toyota 5S-FE. Follow the safety notes, use the correct tools, and verify torque/spec values from the factory service manual for your vehicle year.
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