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You Wouldn't Believe What Happened To This Reliable Toyota Engine And What Destroyed It! Today we look at this reliable Toyota Engine the 5S-FE which is a 2.2L 4 cylinder engine which was super popular in older Toyota ...

How to Turbo The 5sfe in Your Toyota MR2, Celica, or Camry Hey guys really hoped you enjoyed this video feel free to comment any other ideas for turbo 5sfe videos and I hope this video ...

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Summary first (so you can scan): CV joint/axle replacement = remove wheel, loosen axle nut, separate knuckle from control arm/tie rod as needed, pull axle out of hub, pry inner splines out of transaxle, install new axle (push in until it seats), reassemble, torque everything to spec. Below is a beginner-friendly, step-by-step walkthrough with every major component explained, why it fails, what to watch for, tools, and common failure modes.

Safety first
- Work on level ground, car in Park (manual in gear), parking brake set, wheels chocked.
- Use a proper floor jack and jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Have a drain pan for a little transaxle fluid that may leak.
- If you’re uncomfortable at any step, stop and consult a shop manual or a pro.

What you need (parts + tools)
Parts
- Replacement CV axle assembly (OE or quality aftermarket) sized for your Toyota 5S-FE model/year (outer and inner joints; new boots and clamps included).
- New axle nut (some cars reuse; recommend new).
- Replacement cotter pins if present, new clamp ear if not reusable.
- Grease (usually supplied with axle if joint replaced; use CV joint grease if packing).
Tools
- Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks
- 1/2" breaker bar and sockets (axle nut socket size typically 30–36 mm depending on model; check your vehicle)
- Torque wrench
- Pry bar and large flat screwdriver
- Hammer and soft-faced mallet
- Ball-peen or safety hammer
- Needle-nose pliers (cotter pins)
- Snap ring pliers (if your axle has a snap ring)
- Punch or pickle fork / ball joint separator (alternatively use an appropriate puller)
- Wire brush, rags, brake cleaner
- Shop manual or verified torque specs chart (recommended)

High-level theory — how the system works and why it fails
- Purpose: The CV axle transmits engine/transmission torque to the front wheels while allowing the wheel to both steer and move up/down with suspension travel.
- Components:
- Inner joint: allows length change as suspension moves in/out (often a tripod/plunge joint).
- Axle shaft: the rigid rod transmitting torque.
- Outer joint (Rzeppa type commonly): allows the constant velocity while the wheel is steered; contains an inner race, outer race, six balls, cage, and grease.
- CV boot: rubber/flexible cover that keeps grease in and dirt/water out.
- Clamps: metal bands securing boot to shaft and joint.
- Splines: matching teeth where the axle fits into hub/transaxle.
- Circlip/snap ring: small ring on the inner shaft that locks the axle into the transaxle until it’s pulled out.
- Axle nut: secures axle to hub flange and preloads wheel bearing on some designs.
- Analogy: Think of the CV joint as a wrist joint for the axle. The wrist (CV joint) lets the hand (wheel) turn at a steady speed while your forearm (shaft) changes angle and length.
- Why repair is needed:
- Boot tears -> grease leaks + contamination -> ball bearings and races wear -> joint becomes loose -> clicking noise in turns.
- If ignored, joint degrades until it clicks under load or fails, causing loss of drive or vibration.

Symptoms that indicate CV axle/joint failure
- Repetitive clicking or popping when making sharp turns (classic outer joint failure).
- Grease splattered around wheel well or on underside of vehicle.
- Vibration during acceleration (if axle shaft is bent or inner joint failing).
- Boots that visually show cracks or tears or clamps that are loose.
- Clunk when shifting between drive/reverse or when accelerating from stop.

Before you start: diagnosis check
- Inspect boots visually for grease and tears.
- Drive slowly in a tight circle (parking lot): clicking in turns = outer CV joint.
- If boot is torn but joint is still quiet and you can repack with a new boot and clamps, you can sometimes repair; if bearing/races are contaminated, replace the entire axle.

Detailed step-by-step replacement (beginner-friendly)
Note: This is a general Toyota FWD axle removal flow. Some small detail differences exist by year/model—check a factory repair manual for exact bolts, lengths, and torque specs for your car.

1) Preparation
- Loosen the axle nut slightly while car is on the ground (prevents hub from turning). Use correct socket and a long breaker bar or impact.
- Loosen lug nuts but do not remove.
- Raise the car with jack and secure on jack stands. Remove wheel.

2) Remove brake caliper and rotor (clear the hub)
- Remove caliper bolts, hang caliper with wire (don’t let it hang by brake hose).
- Remove rotor; if stuck, tap with mallet to free.

3) Access the hub/knuckle
- You may need to remove the sway bar end link or disconnect tie rod end and/or separate lower ball joint to get the steering knuckle enough freeplay to remove axle. Typical sequence:
- Remove cotter pin and nut at the tie rod or ball joint if present.
- Use ball joint separator/pickle fork or hit with hammer to separate from knuckle.
- For some Toyotas, you only need to disconnect the lower ball joint; others require loosening strut bolts.
- Mark or note orientation of components for reassembly.

4) Remove the axle nut and separate outer CV from hub
- Fully remove the axle nut (may be a new nut supplied).
- Push axle outward to disengage from hub. If stuck, strike the hub face or use a slide hammer or a puller. Do not hit the axle shaft splines with excessive force; hit the hub or use a hub puller on the hub flange if possible.
- Once the axle separates from the hub, you should be able to pivot the steering knuckle outward enough to pull the axle out.

5) Free the inner joint from the transaxle
- Place a drain pan beneath the transaxle output (some small fluid may seep).
- Use a pry bar between transaxle case and inner tripod/axle to pop the axle out of the transmission. There is a circlip that will release when you pull the axle straight out.
- Pull the whole axle out of the hub and then out of the transaxle. Keep the axle vertical as you pull to avoid damaging splines.

6) Compare old and new axles
- Lay both side-by-side. Count the spline teeth on both ends and ensure length and joint type match exactly. If not, return part.
- Check inner circlip location if present.

7) Install new axle — inner spline into transaxle first
- Clean the transaxle input area of dirt.
- Lightly coat the axle splines with clean gear oil or anti-seize (very light). Do not over-lube.
- Push the inner spline straight into the transaxle until the circlip snaps into place. You should feel/hear a distinct “snap” or resistance drop. Tug to confirm it’s seated.
- Note: Some axles require threads of the inner joint to sit fully; ensure correct orientation.

8) Seat the outer axle into the hub
- Guide the outer spline through hub and seat the axle.
- Reassemble knuckle/ball joints/tie rods to restore geometry.
- Tighten suspension fasteners to their specified torque.

9) Torque axle nut correctly (important)
- Lower the car so the wheel contacts but suspension is loaded (or follow manual — many manuals call for final axle nut torque with vehicle on ground to set bearing preload).
- Torque axle nut to factory specification (typical Toyota front axle nut ~ 150–210 ft-lbs depending on model; confirm with shop manual). Use a new axle nut if specified.
- Install cotter pin if applicable.

10) Reinstall brake rotor, caliper, wheel
- Reinstall rotor and caliper; torque caliper bolts to spec.
- Reinstall wheel, lower car, and torque lug nuts to spec.

11) Final checks
- Double-check all torques (axle nut, ball joint/tie-rod nuts, caliper).
- Check for leaks at transaxle. If small leak, check seating or replace transaxle seal if needed.
- Test drive slowly and listen for clicks or vibrations. Recheck axle nut after short drive.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Stripped splines or damaged hub: don’t force non-matching axle into hub; always compare splines before install.
- Not seating inner circlip fully: axle can pop out under load; ensure the “snap” and pull test.
- Over- or under-torqued axle nut: can ruin wheel bearing or cause looseness; always use torque wrench and factory spec.
- Damaging ABS sensor/wiring while separating knuckle: unclip wiring harness and protect sensor.
- Fluid leak from transaxle: pry carefully and have drain pan ready. If too much leaks, you’ll need to refill transaxle to spec.
- Breaking studs/bolts when hitting hub with hammer: use correct puller or press to remove, avoid pounding studs directly.
- Reusing stretched or damaged clamps/cotter pins: replace with new.
- Incorrect axle length or spline count: causes drivetrain damage; always verify part number and physical match.

Typical failure progression if left unaddressed
- Boot tear -> grease loss -> grit contamination -> ball/race roughening -> clicking when turning -> loud popping or vibration -> eventual complete joint failure (loss of drive or wheel lock).

Maintenance and tips
- If the boot is only torn but the joint is still quiet, a boot replacement + repack can extend life — but shop manual guides packing procedure.
- Always buy a full axle assembly if inner joint is contaminated or if you plan to be sure of longevity. They’re often cheaper and easier than rebuilding joints.
- Use OEM or quality aftermarket axles. Cheap axles sometimes have poor clamps or inferior grease and fail earlier.
- Re-torque fasteners after 500–1000 miles (common shop practice).

Torque reference (example — verify with your specific year/model service manual)
- Axle nut: commonly 150–210 ft-lbs (200–285 N·m) on many Toyota front-wheel-drive models. Confirm exact spec.
- Lower control arm/ball joint/tie rod and caliper bolts: see manual (common values range 30–120 ft-lbs depending on fastener).

Final checklist before first drive
- All cotter pins/clamps installed and secure.
- Axle nut torqued to spec.
- All suspension and brake bolts torqued.
- No leftover parts/pedals functioning, brake bleeds not required unless you opened hydraulic lines.
- No leaks beneath vehicle.
- Short slow test drive and recheck for noises or leaks, then re-torque lug nuts.

If something feels wrong after reassembly (clunk under acceleration, clicking in turns, or a vibration), stop driving and recheck axle seating and nut torques. Unresolved issues may mean the axle is not fully seated, is wrong part, or a hub bearing got damaged during removal.

That’s the complete beginner-oriented rundown: what every major piece is and does, why CV joints fail, step-by-step removal and installation, plus common pitfalls and checks. Follow a factory service manual for bolt sizes and exact torque values for your particular year/model of 5S-FE to be safe.
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