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Toyota Hilux 2001-2006 4WD and 2WD Workshop Manual Digital Download

Summary theory (brief)
- The heater core is a small radiator inside the HVAC housing. Engine coolant circulates through it; the blower forces cabin air across the core so heat is transferred from coolant to air. A leaking core allows coolant into the HVAC box/cabin and causes coolant loss, fogging/smell and/or poor heating; a blocked/fouled core reduces heat transfer and causes weak heat flow.
- Replacing the core restores a sealed coolant path and a clean heat-exchange surface, eliminating leaks and restoring normal convective heat transfer so the heater works and coolant stays in the engine cooling system.

Preparation (what you need, safety)
- Parts: correct replacement heater core, new hose clamps, replacement heater hoses or O‑rings if fitted at firewall, HVAC box sealant if used by manufacturer.
- Tools: basic hand tools, screwdrivers, Torx/hex as required, ratchet + sockets, trim tools, hose pliers, drain pan, coolant pressure tester, vacuum/bleeder kit, torque wrench ideally.
- Safety: work on a cold engine; disconnect negative battery; if AC work needed, have refrigerant evacuated by certified shop (do not release refrigerant). Beware airbags — avoid cutting SRS components and follow service manual when removing dash/trim near airbags. Collect and dispose coolant legally.

Diagnosis signs that indicate core replacement
- Persistent coolant smell in cabin.
- Wet/damp passenger footwell or soaked carpet.
- Continuous unexplained coolant loss with no external engine leaks.
- White/green residue inside HVAC box or on heater hoses.
- Fogging of windows with sweet smell.
- Severely reduced heater output when coolant system otherwise OK (if core clogged).

High-level ordered procedure with theory/reasons for each step
1) Drain coolant to below heater hose level
- Why: prevents spillage when disconnecting hoses; reduces pressure and risk of scalding.
- Theory: removing coolant isolates the core from the engine cooling loop.

2) Disable battery negative terminal and take SRS precautions
- Why: prevents accidental airbag deployment and electrical shorts while removing dash.
- Theory: electrical isolation is a safety prerequisite.

3) Remove interior panels/console/steering column trim as required to access HVAC housing
- Why: heater core sits inside the HVAC plenum behind the dash; panels must be removed for access.
- Theory: HVAC housing must be opened without damaging trim or connectors. Keep track of clips/screws.

4) Remove glove box, lower dash trim, HVAC covers, and disconnect wiring/connectors and control cables
- Why: gives unobstructed access to blower and HVAC housing seams.
- Theory: blower and evaporator location will determine sequence; detaching cables avoids damage.

5) Remove blower motor and resistor module if they block access
- Why: common obstacle to opening the housing.
- Theory: blower is mounted to the housing; removing it allows unbolting the housing halves.

6) Disconnect heater hoses at firewall (from engine bay side) and any heater control valve lines
- Why: frees the heater core from the cooling system.
- Theory: the core is a passive heat exchanger; its coolant supply and return must be disconnected.

7) Open HVAC housing and extract heater core
- Why: the core usually sits in a sub-housing; unclip/unscrew and remove.
- Theory: avoid damaging the evaporator and blend doors; note orientation and seals to ensure proper airflow and condensation drainage when installing replacement.

8) Inspect evaporator, housing seals, drain tube and HVAC ducting; clean any coolant residue and replace seals
- Why: residual coolant can cause odors and wetting; seals keep air flowing by correct path.
- Theory: replacing core without cleaning/renewing seals can leave the same symptoms; proper sealing ensures airflow goes across core rather than leaking into cabin.

9) Install new heater core with fresh seals/clips; reassemble housing, reconnect heater hoses and clamps
- Why: correct seating and sealing restores coolant containment and ensures air flows through the core.
- Theory: a tight mechanical and fluid connection prevents leaks and maintains proper coolant circulation.

10) Reinstall blower, wiring, dash components in reverse order; reconnect battery
- Why: restore vehicle to serviceable condition.
- Theory: correct reassembly preserves system function and safety.

11) Refill cooling system with proper mixture, bleed air from system thoroughly
- Why: air in the cooling circuit reduces heat transfer and can cause overheating/poor heater operation.
- How-to-theory: bleeding removes trapped air pockets that would otherwise bypass the heater core and reduce convective transfer; use pressure cap method, vacuum fill, or run engine with heater on and watch for stable level.

12) Pressure-test and run to operating temperature; check for leaks, check heater performance and cabin ducting
- Why: validate repair; detect any residual leaks before completing reassembly.
- Theory: pressurizing confirms sealing integrity; warming system confirms flow through heater core and thermal exchange.

How each step fixes the underlying faults (concise)
- Removing and replacing a leaking core stops coolant from entering the HVAC box and cabin; re-establishes a sealed fluid path so coolant loss and smells stop.
- Replacing a clogged or corroded core reintroduces proper internal flow and a clean heat-transfer surface so air blown over it reaches design temperature.
- Replacing clamps/hoses and seals prevents adjacent failures and ensures flow/pressure integrity.
- Bleeding the system removes air pockets that otherwise block coolant flow through the core, ensuring restored convection and heater output.

Checks to confirm a successful repair
- No coolant smell or wetness in passenger area.
- No coolant loss over several drive cycles.
- Heater delivers hot air within normal warm-up time with heater control on high.
- HVAC drain under passenger side underbody shows only water condensation, no coolant residue.
- Pressure test holds system pressure (per Toyota spec).

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Not fully bleeding air — results in weak heat and potential overheating.
- Damaging evaporator/AC lines or SRS components while removing dash—can be costly/dangerous.
- Re-using old seals or clamps — can leave slow leaks.
- Not pressure-testing before final reassembly — can leave unnoticed leaks.

Estimated difficulty/time
- Difficulty: moderate to high (requires dash disassembly and care around electrical/A/C components).
- Time: 4–10 hours depending on experience and exact Hilux model/trim and whether AC lines or steering removal are needed.

This gives the theoretical reasons behind each action and how replacing the heater core resolves leaks, coolant loss, smells and poor heat output.
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