- Goal: remove, replace and refill the radiator on a Toyota Hilux (applies to both 2WD and 4WD models; 4WD may have extra obstructions like intercooler, bumper or fan clearance to manage).

Safety and prep
- Ensure engine is completely cold; letting a hot engine cool for several hours prevents scalding from hot coolant.
- Work on a level surface with the parking brake on and wheels chocked.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid accidental fan activation or shorting.
- Wear nitrile gloves, safety glasses and old clothes; keep a jug of water and a first-aid kit nearby.
- Use a large drain pan and paper towels/rags; collect coolant for proper disposal (antifreeze is toxic — do not pour to drains or on ground).

Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how you’ll use each)
- Socket set (metric, 8–19 mm common): ratchet and extensions. Used to remove radiator mounting bolts, fan shroud bolts, and bracket bolts. A 10–14 mm range covers most Hilux fasteners.
- Combination wrench set (metric, same sizes): used where sockets won’t fit (tight spaces) or to hold nuts while you turn bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 1/4"–3/8" drive): to tighten mounting bolts to correct spec; prevents over- or under-tightening. Important for fan/clutch and bracket bolts.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): for loosening worm-drive hose clamps, removing small screws and prying clips.
- Pliers (slip-joint and needle-nose): for removing clamps and retaining clips; gripping hoses; pulling small pins.
- Hose clamp pliers or spring clamp pliers: safe, fast removal of spring-type radiator hose clamps without damaging hoses.
- Drain pan (large, 8–15 L): catch the coolant and any transmission fluid from cooler lines.
- Funnel: for refilling coolant and minimizing spills.
- Channel-lock pliers/adjustable wrench: for awkward nuts or quick adjustments.
- Jack and axle stands (or ramps): to raise the front slightly for easier access under the radiator; do NOT rely on a jack alone.
- Wheel chocks and blocks of wood (to secure jack/stands and prevent slipping).
- Utility knife or hose cutter: to cut old hoses if stuck or to trim replacement hoses to fit.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster): helps free rusty bolts and stuck fittings.
- Radiator hose pinch pliers or rags/pliers for upper hose: to control coolant flow when removing hoses.
- Fan clutch wrench set or small impact tool (if viscous mechanical fan): some Toyota Hilux viscous fans require a large nut removal; fan removal can need a second wrench or opposing tool to hold the water pump pulley while you undo the fan nut.
- Transmission cooler line disconnect tool or flare-nut wrench set (if automatic): some Hilux radiators have quick-connect lines; others use threaded fittings — you may need the correct disconnect tool or a flare wrench to avoid rounding fittings.
- Radiator flush kit or garden hose (optional but recommended): to flush the engine block and heater core before installing new radiator.
- Shop rags, old towels, and gloves for cleanup.
- Replacement parts and consumables (see below): coolant, new clamps, O-rings, etc.

Why extra/special tools are required
- Torque wrench: ensures bolts (fan clutch, mounts) are properly tensioned — safety and longevity.
- Fan clutch wrench or holding tool: the fan nut is often staked or tightly torqued; improper removal can damage the water pump or strip threads.
- Transmission line disconnect tool or flare-wrench: prevents damage to cooler fittings; automatic transmission fluid can leak heavily if lines are cut or fittings rounded.
- Hose clamp pliers: spring clamps are difficult and may pinch hands; special pliers remove them quickly and avoid damage.

Parts you should replace (and why)
- New radiator: required if the old is leaking, internally blocked, or corroded. Replace rather than repair if core leaks or plastic tanks are cracked.
- Radiator hoses (upper and lower): replace if soft, cracked, swollen or aged; hoses are inexpensive and difficult to replace reliably once they fail.
- Hose clamps: replace rusted or weak clamps with new worm-drive or spring clamps to ensure tight seals.
- Radiator cap: cheap, maintains proper pressure — replace if old or not sealing.
- Thermostat and thermostat gasket: recommended while cooling system is open — cheap, prevents future removal if thermostat fails.
- Transmission cooler line O-rings/seals (automatic): often disturbed when disconnecting; new O-rings prevent leaks.
- Fan clutch or electric fan pack (if faulty): failing fan reduces cooling and can overheat engine.
- Mounting bushings and rubber supports: replace if brittle or missing — they prevent vibration and damage.
- Coolant/antifreeze and distilled water (as required): new coolant must be fresh and the correct Toyota-specified type.

Step-by-step procedure (high-level workshop steps; follow in sequence)
- Prepare vehicle
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative.
- Allow engine to cool fully.
- Drain coolant
- Place drain pan under radiator drain cock (petcock) or under lower hose.
- Open radiator cap to speed draining.
- Open drain cock or remove lower hose clamp and slide hose off to drain into pan. If no drain cock, loosen lower hose and catch coolant.
- If automatic transmission, place pan under transmission cooler lines; loosen or disconnect lines carefully and catch ATF (have plugs or caps ready).
- Remove obstructing components
- Remove plastic splash panels, intake snorkel, or front bumper pieces if needed for access (4WD models may need extra removals).
- Unplug electric fan(s) or remove mechanical fan (see below).
- Remove fan and shroud
- Electric fans: unplug wiring harness, unbolt fan pack from radiator, lift out.
- Mechanical (viscous) fan: remove fan shroud bolts, then remove fan nut — use fan-clutch wrench and hold water-pump pulley; be ready for a tight nut.
- Remove fan shroud bolts and lift out shroud (it often unbolts while still attached to the radiator).
- Disconnect hoses and lines
- Remove upper and lower radiator hoses by loosening clamps and twisting/pulling off. Use hose cutter for stuck hoses.
- Disconnect overflow bottle hose.
- Disconnect transmission cooler lines (automatic): use disconnect tool or flare wrench; be ready to catch ATF and install new O-rings on reassembly.
- Remove any sensor connectors (temp sensor) from the radiator.
- Unbolt radiator
- Remove mounting bolts/brackets holding radiator to core support. Keep track of rubber mounts and spacers.
- Carefully lift radiator straight up and out — it is heavier than it looks and contains residual fluid. Get help if needed.
- Inspect area for debris, oil contamination, or damaged fins.
- Prepare new radiator
- Transfer small fittings, mounting brackets, drain petcock and shroud mounts from old radiator to new if not already fitted.
- Replace O-rings or gaskets on fittings; coat with a light smear of coolant to seal.
- Optional: flush cooling system
- With old radiator out, flush engine block heater core via engine block drains and heater hoses with garden hose until water runs clear, or use a radiator flush product following instructions.
- Install new radiator
- Lower radiator into position carefully, ensuring rubber bushings and mounting points align.
- Reinstall and tighten mounting bolts to proper torque (use torque wrench where specified).
- Reconnect transmission cooler lines and fit new O-rings; hand-tighten then finish to spec with flare-nut wrench if required.
- Reinstall fan shroud and fan; torque fan-clutch nut to spec.
- Reconnect upper and lower hoses and tighten clamps securely.
- Reconnect overflow hose and radiator cap (cap to be installed after filling).
- Reinstall any removed intake, bumper pieces, splash panels.
- Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Refill with manufacturer-specified coolant (Toyota Long Life or Toyota Super Long Life 50/50 premix is common) or premix 50/50 of coolant and distilled water. Use correct type for engine (diesel/gas specification differences).
- Fill slowly via radiator neck and the overflow reservoir to the proper mark.
- Start the engine with heater set to hot and fans on; allow to idle and watch for leaks.
- As engine warms, thermostat will open and coolant level will drop; top up as needed.
- Squeeze upper radiator hose to help dislodge trapped air; repeat topping up.
- Some Hilux engines have bleed screws on the cylinder head or thermostat housing — open them briefly to vent trapped air (close once coolant flows without bubbles).
- Run until thermostat opens and fans cycle; check for leaks around hoses, fittings and cooler lines.
- After engine cools, recheck and top up coolant in overflow bottle to correct level.
- Final checks
- Inspect undercarriage and transmission cooler lines for leaks.
- Dispose of old coolant responsibly at a recycling center.
- Re-check coolant level after a short test drive and again after a few heat/cool cycles.

Common issues and tips
- If fan nut is seized, apply penetrating oil and use correct fan tool; do not heat nearby components.
- If radiator removal requires bumper/grill removal on your model, be prepared for extra time and extra fasteners.
- Never run engine with no coolant; severe engine damage results quickly.
- If transmission fluid leaks when disconnecting cooler lines, do not let lines run dry — catch and top up the transmission afterwards to the correct level.
- Replacing the thermostat while the cooling system is open is low-cost insurance against future removal.
- If the radiator has plastic tanks that are cracked, replace the entire unit rather than attempt epoxy repairs; repairs often fail under pressure/heat cycling.

Parts checklist to buy before you start
- New radiator (make sure it’s correct for year/model and for 2WD vs 4WD or automatic vs manual).
- Coolant (Toyota-specified type or equivalent) and distilled water if not premixed.
- New radiator cap.
- New upper and lower radiator hoses (if old or unknown age).
- New hose clamps (worm-drive or spring type as appropriate).
- New thermostat and gasket.
- New O-rings for transmission cooler lines (automatic).
- Few replacement mounting bushings (if old ones are cracked).
- Small supply of ATF (if automatic) to top up any lost fluid.
- Thread-lock or anti-seize for bolts as needed.

Time, difficulty and when to get professional help
- Estimated time for a complete beginner: 3–6 hours (depends on obstructions and if bumper/airbox removal is needed).
- Difficulty: moderate — requires basic mechanical aptitude and at least one helper for lifting the radiator safely.
- Get professional help if: you cannot remove stuck fan nut, transmission cooler fittings are seized, radiator mounts or core support is damaged, or you’re uncomfortable disconnecting transmission lines. Also seek shop help for torque specs and bleed procedures specific to your exact Hilux year/engine.

- End: follow OEM torque specs and the factory workshop manual for your exact Hilux year/engine where available; proper torques and bleed points vary by model and are important for a safe, lasting repair.
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How to engage 4WD in a Toyota hilux

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