Tools & consumables
- Floor jack + jack stands (rated), wheel chocks
- 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet, extensions, universal joint
- Socket set (commonly 10mm–14mm for pan bolts; check on vehicle)
- Torque wrench (0–100 Nm range)
- Screwdrivers (flat/Phillips), gasket scraper or plastic razor blade
- Drain pan (capacity ≥ 6 L), funnels, clean rags
- Rubber mallet (optional)
- Brake cleaner or solvent, lint‑free shop towels
- New transmission pan gasket (specific to your Hilux model/year)
- Replacement transmission filter (if accessible on your model) and any O‑rings/seals
- New crush washer for drain plug (if applicable)
- ATF specified for your Hilux (Toyota T‑IV, WS, or model year spec) — quantity depends on model (typically 3–6 L for a pan drain)
- Gloves, eye protection, shop light
- RTV gasket sealant (only if OEM procedure calls for it) — use sparingly

Safety first
- Work on a flat level surface. Chock wheels, engage parking brake.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use properly positioned jack stands.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Trans fluid is hot — allow the vehicle to cool if recently driven.
- Dispose of used ATF responsibly at a recycling center.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Preparation
- Park level, chock rear wheels (if you’re working on front axle) or both ends as needed.
- Shift transmission to Park (or neutral for manual), set parking brake.
- Raise vehicle with floor jack; place on jack stands under the specified lift points. Confirm stability.

2. Access
- Remove any skid plates or underbody covers that block access to the transmission pan.
- Position the drain pan under the transmission pan to catch fluid.

3. Warm fluid (optional but recommended)
- If possible, start the engine for a couple minutes and let it reach normal temperature, then shut off. Warm fluid drains more completely. Be careful — fluid will be hot.

4. Loosen and drain
- Locate the transmission pan drain plug (if present). If the pan has a drain plug, remove it first and allow fluid to drain into your catch pan.
- If no drain plug: loosen pan bolts evenly around the pan about one or two turns first using a ratchet. Leave several bolts (usually at two opposite corners) partially threaded so the pan won’t drop suddenly.
- Carefully break the remaining bolts and lower the pan slowly from one side; tip it so fluid drains into the catch pan. Expect several liters to drain.

5. Remove pan & clean
- Remove all pan bolts and lower the pan. Inspect pan for metal flakes/particles — a few fine particles are normal; large chunks or heavy scoring indicates internal wear.
- Clean pan interior and magnet(s). Use brake cleaner and shop towels; remove deposits from magnets.
- Scrape old gasket material and sealant from pan flange and transmission mating surface using a plastic scraper or gasket scraper. Do not gouge the machined surface. Clean with solvent and lint‑free towels.

6. Inspect/replace filter & seals
- If your transmission has a removable filter, remove the filter (usually held by bolts or rubber grommet). Replace with new filter. Replace any O‑rings or seals associated with the filter and pan bolt drillings if required.
- Clean mating surfaces again after removing filter.

7. Prepare new gasket and pan
- Fit the new gasket to the pan. Some gasket types are molded and press into place; others are paper/ cork. Do not use excessive RTV. If OEM procedure calls for a tiny bead of RTV at two corners where the case halves meet, apply as specified. Otherwise install gasket dry.
- If the drain plug has a crush washer, fit a new one.

8. Reinstall pan
- Position gasket and pan onto transmission. Start all bolts by hand to avoid cross‑threading.
- Tighten bolts in a crisscross/star pattern progressively and evenly to bring the pan up flush.
- Final torque: tighten to the manufacturer’s spec. Typical pan bolt torque on many Toyotas is light — roughly 8–12 N·m (70–105 in·lb) — but this varies by model and bolt size. Use your service manual for exact torque. Over‑torquing will crush or distort the gasket and cause leaks.

9. Reinstall drain plug and skid plates
- If you removed a drain plug, install with new crush washer and torque to spec (this is higher than pan bolts; refer to manual).
- Refit any skid plates or covers removed.

10. Refill with ATF
- Lower vehicle to level ground.
- Add the correct type and approximate amount of ATF through the dipstick tube or filler port using a funnel. Add about 80–90% of the expected pan drain amount first (you’ll top up after running).
- Start engine and let idle (transmission in Park or Neutral per manual), cycle the gear selector through each gear slowly, then return to Park.
- With engine running and at normal operating temperature, check the fluid level on the dipstick (some late‑model Hiluxes require checking in a very specific way — consult manual). Add fluid a little at a time until level is correct. Too much fluid can cause overheating and foaming.

11. Final checks
- Inspect for leaks around pan and drain plug.
- With engine warm and transmission in Park, recheck fluid level and adjust as needed.
- Road test gently, then re‑inspect for leaks and re‑torque pan bolts after first heat cycle if manufacturer recommends.

How each tool is used (brief)
- Floor jack/jack stands: lift vehicle and securely support — place stands under manufacturer‑approved lift points.
- Ratchet and sockets: break and remove pan bolts. Use correct size socket to avoid rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench: final tightening to specified torque. Use in small incremental passes for pan bolts in crisscross pattern.
- Gasket scraper/plastic razor: remove old gasket without scratching machined surfaces.
- Drain pan/funnel: catch and transfer ATF.
- Brake cleaner/solvent and rags: clean mating surfaces and magnets.

Common pitfalls & what to avoid
- Over‑tightening pan bolts — leads to warped pan or crushed gasket and leaks. Use torque wrench and service spec.
- Not replacing filter and seals when accessible — contaminants remain and shorten fluid life.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces thoroughly — old sealant or debris causes leaks.
- Removing all bolts at once — pan can fall and spill hot fluid; loosen gradually and support pan.
- Using wrong ATF type — can damage transmission. Always use manufacturer‑specified fluid.
- Checking fluid level on an unlevel vehicle or when transmission is cold — gives false reading.
- Reusing old crush washer on drain plug — causes leaks.
- Using excessive RTV sealant — can squeeze into transmission and clog passages. Follow OEM guidance.

Replacement parts usually required
- Transmission pan gasket (OEM or quality aftermarket specific to Hilux model/year)
- Transmission filter (if removable on your model)
- Drain plug crush washer (if equipped)
- Transmission fluid (correct spec and quantity)

Final note (concise)
Follow the exact torque values and ATF specification for your Hilux’s model year and transmission type — service manual values supersede generic numbers. If unsure about filter location or pan bolt sizes/torques for your exact year, check a factory workshop manual or a trusted database before starting.
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Summary first (quick): a synchronizer (synchro) equalizes speed between a gear and the output shaft before engagement so shifts are smooth. Replacing synchros requires removing the gearbox, disassembling the main/countershafts, replacing worn cone rings/blocker rings/hubs/sleeves (or entire synchro assemblies), inspecting bearings and gears, setting endfloat/preload and reassembling with proper lubricants and torques. Below is a beginner- friendly, detailed workshop-style walkthrough that covers theory, component descriptions, tools/parts, step‑by‑step removal, bench disassembly, inspection/measurements, replacement/reassembly, installation, break‑in and what can go wrong.

Theory — why and how synchronizers work (analogy)
- What a synchronizer does: when you select a gear in a manual gearbox, the gearbox must match the speeds of the rotating parts before the dog teeth can lock the gear to the shaft. The synchro acts like a small friction clutch that equalizes rotational speeds so the dogs can engage without grinding.
- Analogy: think of shifting as two bicycles riding side-by-side. To change bikes smoothly you’d grab the moving bike and match pedaling speed before stepping across. The synchronizer is your hand that matches speeds using friction.
- Basic operation: shift fork moves the synchronizer sleeve (sliding collar) onto the hub. The sleeve contacts the cone face of a blocker (ring) that uses friction to bring the gear and shaft to the same RPM. Once speeds are matched, the sleeve slides over dog teeth and locks the gear to the shaft.

Key components (what they are and what they do)
- Main shaft (output shaft): carries the gears and synchronizers that deliver drive out of the gearbox.
- Countershaft/lay shaft: opposite shaft with gears meshing the main shaft gears.
- Gear (driven gear / cluster gear): the rotating gear that provides ratio.
- Synchro assembly (synchronizer pack): typically consists of:
- Hub: splined to the main shaft, fixed in place longitudinally.
- Sleeve (sliding collar): splines internally, slides over the hub to engage gears.
- Blocker ring / synchro ring / cone ring: friction ring with conical inner face that bears against a mating cone on the gear. Often called brass or sintered ring.
- Spring and small ramp pieces (dogs / keys): keep the blocker ring oriented; some designs use small springs or ball/spring detents.
- Dogs (dog teeth) on gear and on sleeve: mechanical lock after speeds match.
- Selector forks and shift rails: move the sleeves via shift lever input.
- Bearings (mainshaft bearings, input bearing, output support): support rotating shafts.
- Snap rings/circlips, spacers, shims: locate assemblies axially.
- Seals and gaskets: keep fluid in and contaminants out.
- Case halves: gearbox housing.

Symptoms that indicate synchro wear
- Grinding or crunching when shifting into a particular gear (especially 2nd, 3rd, or reverse).
- Gear pops out of gear.
- Need to double-declutch to engage a gear.
- Hard/harsh shift into specific gears only.
- Clunking or increased noise during shifts.

Common causes of synchro failure
- Normal wear from friction surfaces (cone ring wear reduces friction).
- Excessive heat from riding clutch or missed shifts.
- Contaminated or wrong gear oil (GL‑5 additives can cause clutch material deterioration; many manuals specify GL‑4).
- Mechanical damage: chipped dog teeth, bent selectors, worn hub splines.
- Excessive play (worn bearings or shims causing misalignment).

Tools, materials and parts required
- Tools: full metric socket set, torque wrench, breaker bar, ratchets, extensions, box/open wrenches, screwdriver set, snap ring pliers (internal/external), bearing puller/gear puller, soft‑face hammer, drift punches, bench vice, press (hydraulic preferred), torque screwdrivers (if needed), picks, small pliers, alignment tools, dial indicator (for endfloat), feeler gauges, micrometer/calipers, gasket scraper, wire brush.
- Consumables: new synchronizer kit(s) for the gears being replaced, new bearings/seals as required, new gaskets, RTV sealant (if used), assembly lube or light gear oil, brake cleaner/parts cleaner, rags, threadlocker (blue), grease for forks and selector rails.
- Gear oil: correct specification for your Hilux model (consult factory manual; many manuals specify API GL‑4 75W‑85 or Toyota gear oil). Always use the specified oil.
- Replacement parts to consider: syncro rings, sleeves/hubs (if worn), bearings, thrust washers, circlips, input shaft seal, output shaft seal, selector forks (if worn), shift rail bushings.

Preparation & safety
- Work on flat level ground, use axle stands under a properly supported vehicle. Disconnect the battery.
- Use proper jack stands, chock wheels, and block engine/transmission if supporting.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and follow safe lifting techniques. Gearboxes are heavy—use transmission jack or hoist.
- Keep a clean, organized bench; small parts are easy to lose. Take photos as you disassemble for orientation.

Removal from vehicle — general steps (4WD vs 2WD notes)
Note: specific bolt locations and sequences vary by year/model. Use the Hilux factory service manual for exact procedures and torque specs.
1. Prepare vehicle: disconnect battery negative terminal. Raise vehicle, support with stands. Remove underbody shields as needed.
2. Drain gearbox oil.
3. Disconnect drive shafts:
- 2WD: remove front driveshaft if applicable; remove prop shaft or halfshafts.
- 4WD: remove front and rear props, disconnect transfer case output(s) if removing gearbox and transfer case together. Often easier to separate transfer case first (unbolt transfer case from gearbox).
4. Remove shift linkage: disconnect from shift lever/selector. Label linkages.
5. Disconnect clutch components: remove slave cylinder or clutch fork from bellhousing (do not disconnect hydraulic line unless necessary).
6. Remove starter motor and ancillary items obstructing gearbox removal (wiring, brackets).
7. Support engine if necessary when gearbox is separated; sometimes remove engine mount that supports gearbox end.
8. Unbolt bellhousing bolts from engine (leave some bolts partially seated until supported). Use transmission jack to support gearbox.
9. Lower gearbox carefully out of vehicle. For 4WD with transfer case: either remove both as an assembly or separate transfer case from gearbox on bench depending on design.

On-bench disassembly — step-by-step
Label and photograph everything as you go. Lay out parts in order.
1. Clean exterior of gearbox before opening to avoid contamination.
2. Remove gearbox cover(s), drain remaining fluid if any, and remove shift rails/selector forks:
- Note which fork corresponds to which gear (mark them).
3. Remove snap rings/circlips that retain bearings, gears, and shafts. Use snap ring pliers on the grooves.
4. Extract mainshaft (output shaft) and layshaft/countershaft. This usually involves removing a bearing or circlip at the tail of the shaft then pulling shafts out.
5. With shafts out, slide off gears and synchronizer assemblies. Keep track of spacers, shims, and thrust washers.
6. Inspect synchronizer assemblies: remove sleeves from hubs, then remove blocker rings. Some rings are press-fit or snap-fit.
7. Inspect bearings and seals; remove for replacement if worn.

Inspection — what to look for and measurements
- Synchronizer (blocker) rings:
- Check cone faces for glazing, scoring, uneven wear. If surface shiny and thin, replace. Small notches can be normal, but deep grooves or missing material require replacement.
- Check thickness dimensions versus new parts or manual specs.
- Dogs and dog teeth:
- Inspect both sleeve and gear dogs for rounded edges, chips, or sharp wear. If dogs are rounded/shortened beyond spec, replace the sleeve or gear.
- Sleeve/hub splines:
- Check splines for wear, fretting or movement (excess axial play). Replace hub or sleeve if splines are worn.
- Bearings:
- Spin bearings by hand—roughness or play = replace. Check radial/runout with dial indicator if necessary.
- Gears and teeth:
- Check for pitting, chipped teeth, abnormal wear. Replace severely damaged gears.
- Shafts:
- Check for straightness and spline condition.
- Endfloat and axial clearance:
- Measure mainshaft endfloat using a dial indicator with assembly on bench (per manual). Excessive endfloat can cause misalignment and shift problems. Replace or fit correct shims as per manual.
- Selector forks and rails:
- Check fork tips for wear where they contact sleeves; excessive wear mashes the sleeve and causes poor shifting.
- Oil contamination:
- Metal fines indicate internal wear—inspect thoroughly.

Replacement choices — what to replace
- Replace the synchro rings for the affected gears at minimum. If dogs are rounded, replace the sleeve/hub (sometimes sold as kit).
- Often recommended to replace bearings/seals while gearbox is open.
- Replace worn spacers/shims to restore correct endfloat.
- Replace selector forks if worn.
- Consider replacing all synchros on an older gearbox to avoid repeat work.

Bench reassembly — detailed steps and tips
1. Clean all parts: use parts cleaner, blow-dry and wipe with lint-free rags. Do not use compressed air on bearings with solvent left.
2. Fit new blocker rings onto gears. Some need light heating to expand for fit, or use press; follow part instructions. Ensure correct orientation—the beveled cone faces toward the sleeve/hub.
3. Assemble hubs and sleeves on shaft: apply thin layer of assembly grease to friction surfaces (use manufacturer recommended lube).
4. Install new springs/detents if provided. Ensure keys or ramps are correctly seated.
5. Replace bearings and races as necessary using a press—press on evenly using correct adapters (press on races, not pulling through). Do not apply force to the shaft journal or gear teeth.
6. Refit gears and thrust washers in the correct order. Use new circlips if provided.
7. Check axial positions with feeler gauges/shims as you install spacers. Many gearboxes require specific shims between bearings/gears to set endfloat. Follow the manual for shim thickness or measure endfloat with dial indicator and adjust shims until in spec.
8. Verify synchronizer sleeve engagement: before final assembly, slide sleeves to ensure they engage blocker rings and dogs without binding.
9. Reinstall selector forks and rails; ensure they move freely and the fork tips seat into the sleeve slots properly. Apply light grease to fork tip and rail contact areas.
10. Torque all bolts to factory specified values (consult Hilux service manual for exact torques). Use threadlocker where manufacturer recommends.
11. Replace input shaft seal and output seal(s) with new ones. Coat lips with small amount of oil before assembly.
12. Reinstall gearbox housings and covers with new gaskets or RTV as specified. Torque case bolts in recommended sequence.

Setting bearings/endfloat and critical checks
- Endfloat: install mainshaft assembly in case and use dial indicator to measure axial play. Compare to manual spec. If excessive, add or reduce shims/spacing washers until within spec.
- Bearing preload: if tapered roller bearings are used, preload must be set correctly (follow manual procedure).
- Gear lash/backlash: some gearsets allow measurement of backlash between gears; check and adjust if possible (this is typically a more complex step and depends on model).
- Shift engagement: with gearbox assembled but not installed, actuate the shift lever to make sure gears can be selected and synchros operate without binding.

Reinstallation into vehicle
1. Clean bellhousing mating surfaces; fit new clutch alignment if clutch removed.
2. Bench bleed clutch hydraulic system if disconnected.
3. Mount gearbox on a transmission jack and raise into position. Align input shaft with clutch/throwout bearing and slide bellhousing to engine. Ensure input shaft splines smoothly enter clutch disk.
4. Tighten bellhousing and engine bolts finger-tight, then torque to factory specs in recommended sequence.
5. Reattach starter, clutch linkage/slave, drive shafts, transfer case (if separated), prop shafts, shift linkage, wiring, etc.
6. Refill gearbox and transfer case with correct gear oil to specified levels.
7. Reconnect battery.

Break-in and testing
- Start engine and let idle. Check for fluid leaks.
- With vehicle on stands, shift through all gears with clutch depressed to verify selection and smooth shifts.
- Road test carefully: begin with light loads and avoid hard shifts for first 200–500 km. New synchros may need light bedding in.
- Recheck oil level and torque on accessible fasteners after initial test run.

What can go wrong (common mistakes and how to avoid them)
- Reassembling in wrong order or misplacing shims/spacers — solution: label and photograph during disassembly; lay parts in order.
- Using wrong/seized blocker ring orientation — make sure cone faces match the mating cone and any timing marks align.
- Not replacing worn forks or sleeves — leads to premature re-failure.
- Using incorrect gear oil (GL‑5 vs GL‑4) that degrades synchro friction materials — always use specified oil.
- Incorrect bearing preload or endfloat — leads to noisy operation, premature wear. Measure and set per manual.
- Damaging bearings by pressing on wrong surfaces — press on housing/race surfaces only.
- Not cleaning properly — contamination causes rapid wear.
- Reusing circlips or seals that are stretched — always replace critical retainers and seals.

Troubleshooting after reassembly
- If a gear still grinds: check synchro ring seating (cone wear), sleeve/hub dogs condition, fork operation, and linkage adjustment.
- If difficulty selecting gear: check selector fork alignment, shift rail bushings, and detent springs.
- If gears pop out: worn dog teeth or wrong sleeve fit; replace sleeve/hub or gear as necessary.
- Excessive noise: check bearing preload, mesh mesh/backlash, and bearings condition.

Final notes and cautions (don’t skip)
- Always consult the exact Toyota Hilux workshop manual for your model year for specific torque specs, shim sizes, bearing part numbers and oil types. Gearbox internals vary between model years and between 2WD and 4WD Hilux transmissions.
- If you are unsure about bearing preload, endfloat shimming, or gear backlash, consider sending shafts/gears to a specialist or following a step-by-step manual—incorrect settings can ruin the gearbox quickly.
- If the job seems beyond your tools or comfort (press, torque tools, precise measurements), a gearbox shop can rebuild to correct specs.

What to order before you start (checklist)
- Synchronizer kit(s) for affected gears (cones, rings, springs).
- Sleeve/hub kits if dogs/splines are worn.
- Bearings and seals.
- Selector fork(s) if worn.
- Full gasket/seal kit for your gearbox.
- Correct gear oil.
- Threadlocker, cleaning solvent, rags.

This guide gives the full workflow and the mechanical theory and pitfalls. Follow the Hilux factory manual for model-specific instructions, torque values, and clearances when you perform each measurement and final torquing.
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