I’ll assume you mean replacing and servicing the cooling/heater/vacuum hoses common to Toyota Hilux (applies to most 2WD and 4WD Hilux engines). The procedure below covers radiator upper/lower, bypass/heater hoses and typical vacuum/actuator hoses used on 4WD models. Follow each step in order. No questions.

Safety first
- Work only on a cold engine. Hot coolant is dangerous. Wait until cool to the touch.
- Park on a level surface, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Have a large drain pan and absorbent rags ready.
- If you’ll be under the vehicle, use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery only if you’ll be working around electric fans or wiring.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby if you’ll be using tools near fuel or electrical connections.

Tools and consumables needed
- 8–14 mm socket set and ratchet (for fan shroud, clamps).
- Flat screwdriver (slotted) and Phillips.
- Hose clamp pliers (spring-type) and regular pliers.
- Worm-drive clamp screwdriver or 6 mm socket for worm clamps.
- Pliers for pinch-off (hose pinch-off pliers) for heater hoses.
- Utility knife or hose cutter (sharp) / hose removal tool (curved pick).
- Drain pan (large) and funnels.
- Rags, gloves, safety glasses.
- Scraper or small wire brush to clean spigots.
- Penetrating oil (for seized clamps).
- Silicone grease (optional, for fitting hoses).
- Replacement hoses (OEM or equivalent EPDM/silicone coolant hoses) and replacement clamps (spring or quality worm/torque clamps). For vacuum hoses use vacuum-rated hose (small diameter).
- Coolant (correct Toyota type or equivalent, pre-mix or concentrate + distilled water).
- Radiator cap if old/brittle, new gasket if removed.

Common pitfalls to avoid (read first)
- Working on a hot engine (serious burn risk).
- Reusing old clamps or damaged crushed hoses.
- Cutting off hoses in a way that leaves a burr or too-short a hose — measure first.
- Overtightening worm clamps (can cut hose or crack plastic inlet).
- Not thoroughly bleeding the cooling system — leads to overheating.
- Damaging plastic radiator or heater outlet when prying a stuck hose.
- Using incorrect hose type (use coolant-rated hose, not generic vacuum hose for coolant).

Step‑by‑step: coolant hoses (upper/lower/bypass/heater)
1. Preparation
- Let engine cool. Place drain pan under radiator.
- Remove undercovers or fan shroud if needed for access (8–12mm bolts typical).
- Note hose routing and connection orientation — take a photo if necessary.

2. Drain coolant
- Open radiator cap only when cool.
- Open radiator drain cock/petcock (lower radiator outlet) or loosen lower hose connection to drain coolant into pan.
- For heater hose work you can often pinch off hoses and remove only the heater hose to minimize draining.

3. Release clamps
- Identify clamp type:
- Spring clamps: use hose clamp pliers to compress and slide clamp away from the fitting.
- Worm-drive clamps: use screwdriver or socket to loosen (turn CCW) and slide back.
- T-bolt or constant-tension clamps: use appropriate socket or screwdriver.
- If clamps are corroded/seized, spray penetrating oil, let soak, then use pliers/sockets.

4. Remove hose
- Twist hose by hand to break the seal. Pull straight off the spigot while twisting.
- If stuck: use a utility knife to carefully slice lengthwise off the hose (do not cut spigot). Alternatively use a dedicated hose removal tool or a thin flat screwdriver to pry gently while supporting the plastic spigot to avoid cracking it.
- For lower radiator hoses on some Hiluxes that are tight or routed under accessories, you may need to remove other components (fan shroud, alternator bracket) for clearance.

5. Inspect and clean fittings
- Inspect metal/plastic spigots for corrosion, cracks, groove damage.
- Clean mating surfaces with wire brush/rag, remove old rubber and clamp debris. Make sure grooves are smooth.
- If spigot is damaged, replace the affected component (radiator, water pump inlet, heater control valve) before reassembly.

6. Fit new hose
- Confirm hose part is correct (diameter, length, profile). OEM or high-quality EPDM or silicone hose recommended.
- Slide new clamp onto hose before fitting.
- Lightly smear a bit of coolant or silicone lube on the inside to ease fitting.
- Push hose fully onto the spigot so end line up with the spigot’s raised stop or groove.
- Position clamp 3–5 mm behind the spigot bead or directly over the bead depending on clamp type. For spring clamps, position over the bead; for worm clamps, ensure even seating.
- Tighten clamps: for worm clamps, snug until hose cannot be rotated by hand and no leak appears — do not crush. For spring clamps compress and release into position. If using T-bolt clamps, tighten to manufacturer spec but avoid over-clamping.

7. Refill and bleed cooling system
- Close drain cock. Fill radiator with correct coolant mixture.
- Start engine with radiator cap off and heater on max heat to circulate through heater core. Watch for bubbles escaping (air purging).
- Allow engine to reach normal operating temp and let thermostat open. Top up coolant as air bleeds out.
- Replace radiator cap once air is gone and level stable. Check expansion tank level and top as required.
- Run to temperature and recheck for leaks. After cooling, recheck coolant level again and top up.

8. Final checks
- Inspect all hose connections under load for leaks (engine at temp).
- After a short drive, recheck clamp tightness and coolant level.
- Inspect for hose rubbing/interference with belts or moving parts — secure hose with ties if necessary.

Vacuum and 4WD actuator hoses (general)
- Vacuum lines are smaller (typically 3–6 mm). Use vacuum-rated hose (latexes degrade fast — use proper vacuum hose).
- Depressurize system by turning key off; no fuel risk here but avoid rough handling of connectors.
- Remove quick-connect clips, note routing. Replace brittle hoses and connectors. Use the same ID hose or OEM equivalent.
- Check vacuum actuator diaphragms for tears; replace actuators if leaking.
- If replacing a hard-to-reach vacuum line, make sure you replicate routing exactly to avoid chafing or heat exposure.

Specific tool use notes
- Hose clamp pliers: squeeze handles to open spring clamp, slide back along hose, release in a safe position. Helps when clamps are tight or springy.
- Worm-drive screwdriver/socket: engage the screw head and turn CCW to loosen; turn slowly while maintaining pressure on the hose to avoid slippage.
- Pinch-off pliers: place upstream of the work area to reduce coolant loss on heater hoses; do not use sharp clamps that will cut hose if reusing.
- Utility knife/hose cutter: cut straight and clean. If you must cut for removal, cut along the hose length rather than through the spigot when possible.
- Hose removal tool: slide behind hose and pry off without twisting/plastic damage.

Replacement parts typically required
- New hoses (upper, lower, heater, bypass) as needed — replace any hose over 5 years old, or with cracks/bulging/soft spots.
- New clamps: replace spring clamps if corroded; consider replacing worm clamps with new stainless clamps.
- Coolant (correct spec for your Hilux engine).
- Radiator cap if old or pressure not maintained.
- If spigot/plastic fittings are cracked, replacement radiator/water pump/thermostat housing as necessary.

Extra tips and troubleshooting
- If you get a persistent leak at a clamp, remove clamp and hose, clean spigot, replace with a new clamp, fit hose further up or slightly rotate so clamp sits over the bead.
- If you see steam or white smoke after replacing hoses, stop and check coolant level — you likely have air trapped. Re-bleed.
- If engine overheats after replacement, double-check that bypass hoses and heater hoses are connected correctly (some engines have specific one-way flows).
- Replace hoses in pairs if one is old — e.g., replace both upper and lower at once if same age.
- For 4WD: inspect vacuum lines to front axle/differential — brittle lines cause 4WD engagement issues.

When to get professional help
- If plastic spigots or radiator ends are broken — these often require component replacement.
- If the lower hose connection is inaccessible or you must remove gearbox/engine mounts for access.
- If you suspect internal engine issues (water pump failure, head gasket) — symptoms like white smoke, milky oil, or continuous pressure loss require more advanced diagnosis.

That’s the complete shop-style walkthrough for replacing and servicing hoses on a Hilux (2WD/4WD). Follow safety steps, use correct replacement parts, and ensure the cooling system is properly bled before returning the vehicle to service.
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- Safety first (read and follow before doing anything)
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and hearing protection when using power tools.
- Work on a cool engine; hot exhaust/turbo can burn. Let vehicle cool 2+ hours if recently run.
- Use a hydraulic jack only to lift, then always support with rated jack stands on solid ground; use wheel chocks.
- Drain oil and coolant into appropriate containers and dispose according to local rules.
- If you are uncomfortable with heavy parts, pressurized fluids, or cutting/torquing exhaust hardware, stop and use a professional.

- Quick diagnosis checklist (what tells you the turbo is suspect)
- Blue or heavy oil smoke on boost = turbo oil seal failure.
- Loud whining, grinding, or rattling from turbo area = damaged shaft or bearings.
- Loss of power and poor boost = sticking vanes (if variable geometry), actuator fault, or turbo damage.
- Oil in intercooler or intake plumbing = turbo internal leakage.
- If any of the above, plan for turbo inspection/removal.

- Tools you should have and how to use them (basic tools and what they do)
- Socket set with metric sockets (8–22 mm typical)
- Use with ratchet and extensions to remove bolts/nuts on intake, intercooler pipes, heatshields, and turbo flanges.
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Applies high leverage to break stubborn or rusted bolts before using a ratchet.
- Torque wrench (metric, click-type)
- Required to tighten turbo mounting and downpipe bolts to manufacturer torque; prevents leaks and stud/head damage. Set to spec and tighten in correct sequence.
- Combination wrench set (open-end and box-end)
- Use where a socket won’t fit; hold nuts while turning bolts or access tight places.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Remove clamps and small fasteners; gently pry off hoses/clips.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- Remove clamps, hold small parts, and pull hoses.
- Vice grips / locking pliers
- Hold or clamp stubborn parts; remove broken studs if used with proper extraction method.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Soak rusted exhaust and turbo bolts to ease removal. Apply and wait 10–20 minutes.
- Hammer and soft-faced mallet
- Tap seized parts free gently (soft-faced to avoid damage).
- Pry bar
- Offer leverage to separate flanges or break sticky mounts.
- Gasket scraper / brass brush / wire brush
- Remove old gasket material from flanges; brass is softer and less likely to score surfaces.
- Drain pan and funnels
- Catch engine oil and coolant when removing oil/coolant lines.
- Shop rags and brake cleaner
- Clean surfaces and oil residues safely.
- Gloves and disposable rags
- Protect hands and keep the work area tidy.
- Jack and jack stands / ramps
- Lift and safely support vehicle for access under the engine.
- Wheel chocks
- Prevent vehicle roll.
- Flashlight or work lamp
- Illuminate tight engine bay areas.
- Small parts trays / magnetic tray
- Keep bolts and small components organized.
- Replacement bolts, studs, and copper washers (see parts below)
- Often required because exhaust bolts and crush washers are single-use.

- Additional / specialized tools you may need and why
- Torque angle gauge (if engine uses torque-to-angle fasteners)
- Required for precise torque-angle methods; many turbo studs use standard torque only, but check manual.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base
- Measures turbo shaft endplay and radial play to determine bearing condition. Needed if attempting to rebuild.
- Snap ring / circlip pliers
- Remove internal snap rings if disassembling turbo cartridge (CHRA).
- Compressor vane tool or small feeler gauges
- Check vane clearance on variable geometry turbos.
- Turbo rebuild kit (bearing, seals, thrust collar, snap rings)
- Only useful if you intend to rebuild the turbo.
- Portable vacuum/boost pump or hand pump with gauge
- Test the wastegate actuator and boost hoses for leaks without running the engine.
- Balancer / dynamic balancing machine (professional equipment)
- Required to balance rotating assembly after any disassembly of shaft/wheel; not practical for home use. Unbalanced re-assembly causes rapid failure.
- Air compressor and blow gun
- Clean passages and test vane movement on VGT turbos.
- Heat-resistant anti-seize and high-temp exhaust paste (where specified)
- Prevent future seizure of exhaust bolts and ensure proper sealing where required by manual.

- Parts commonly replaced during turbo service and why
- Turbocharger unit (complete turbo) — recommended if bearing damage, blade contact, or severe wear
- Why: Shaft damage, bent blades, or internal bearing failure usually means the CHRA is compromised; full turbo replacement is the most reliable solution for a beginner.
- CHRA (cartridge) — replacement if only center section is bad and you have mechanical skill
- Why: Replacing the cartridge can be cost-effective but requires precise balancing and correct reassembly.
- Turbo gasket kit (manifold/turbo and downpipe gaskets)
- Why: Exhaust and oil/coolant gaskets compress/deteriorate; must be replaced to prevent leaks.
- Oil feed line and banjo bolts with copper crush washers
- Why: Lines can clog, crack, or leak; old crush washers deform and must be replaced to prevent oil leaks.
- Oil return line (and flange gasket)
- Why: Return line blockages or leaks cause oil to back up into the turbo; new lines/gaskets restore proper flow.
- Wastegate actuator or actuator vacuum/boost hose
- Why: Sticking or failed actuator causes poor boost control; replacing restores boost response.
- Intercooler pipes, silicone hoses, and clamps
- Why: Cracked hoses or loose clamps cause boost leaks; replace worn hoses and use worm-drive or T-bolt clamps for reliability.
- Exhaust bolts/studs and nuts (manifold-to-head and turbo flanges)
- Why: Heat-corroded hardware often breaks; replacing prevents future seizure and leaks.
- Air filter and intake hose
- Why: Ingested debris damages turbo compressor wheel; replace filters while working.
- Engine oil and oil filter
- Why: Fresh oil after turbo work prevents wearing bearings; old contaminated oil can damage a new turbo.
- Coolant hoses or fittings to turbo (if water-cooled turbo)
- Why: Leaking coolant lines cause overheating and engine damage.
- EGR or related valves (if tangled with turbo system)
- Why: EGR malfunctioning can affect turbo performance; sometimes cleaned or replaced during work.

- Step-by-step procedure (high-level actions you can follow as a beginner)
- Prepare the vehicle
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal for safety.
- Raise and support vehicle if needed for access.
- Remove intake and intercooler piping
- Loosen hose clamps, remove plumbing from turbo inlet and outlet, catch any oil in the pipes with rags or drain pan.
- Drain oil and (if applicable) some coolant
- Drain engine oil if you will open oil lines; catch fluids. Some recommend only draining a little to avoid big mess — use service manual guidance.
- Remove heatshields and loose accessories
- Take off turbo heat shields, sensor connectors, and any brackets in the way.
- Remove oil feed and return lines, and coolant lines
- Place drain pan under turbo area. Unscrew banjo bolts and lines, replace copper crush washers on reassembly.
- Clean threaded ports with a rag; do not allow debris to enter turbo oil inlet or engine gallery.
- Disconnect exhaust downpipe and manifold-to-turbo flange
- Apply penetrating oil beforehand. Remove nuts/bolts and separate flanges using a pry bar if necessary; replace gaskets on reassembly.
- Unbolt turbo from manifold/engine
- Support turbo with a hand as last bolts are removed to prevent dropping. Remove turbo assembly.
- Inspect removed turbo
- Check compressor and turbine wheels visually for chipped/bent blades.
- Check shaft for radial play (slot between wheel and housing) and axial endplay using a small screwdriver or feeler: minimal radial and ~0 axial. Excessive play, metal shaving, or scoring = bearing failure.
- Check oil inlet/outlet for sludge or metal particles.
- If shaft rubs or wheel contact is present, plan for replacement of CHRA or whole turbo.
- Decide repair vs replacement
- Replace entire turbo if you see blade damage, excessive shaft play, oil contamination, or if you lack a balancing machine. Rebuilding (CHRA swap) only if bearings/seals are the known issue and you have specialist equipment or use a reputable turbo rebuilder.
- Clean mating surfaces and prepare parts
- Scrape old gaskets clean; use brake cleaner; ensure no debris can fall into intake or oil passages.
- Fit new gaskets, lines, and hoses
- Replace oil feed/return lines and crush washers; fit new manifold-to-turbo gasket and downpipe gasket; replace any worn intercooler hoses and clamps.
- Install turbo and tighten fasteners
- Hand-start bolts, then torque to spec using the torque wrench. Replace any bolts that were seized or stretched.
- Reconnect oil and coolant lines, ensuring correct orientation and torque on banjo bolts.
- Prime turbo oil supply
- Remove fuel pump fuse or disable ignition to prevent start, crank engine for several seconds to build oil pressure to turbo (or pour a small amount of clean engine oil into turbo oil inlet port and manually spin compressor to distribute oil). This prevents dry start on first run.
- Reassemble intake and exhaust plumbing
- Reconnect intercooler and intake pipes, sensors, vacuum hoses, and heatshields. Refill engine oil and coolant to correct levels.
- Start engine and check for leaks
- Start and idle, check for oil, coolant, or exhaust leaks around turbo. Listen for abnormal noises.
- Use vacuum/boost pump to test actuator function if available.
- Road-test and re-torque after heat cycle
- After short drive and cool-down, recheck fasteners and oil/coolant levels; re-torque if required by manual.

- Important tips and cautions
- Never run engine with turbo oil lines disconnected; the turbo relies on continuous oil flow.
- Always prime the turbo oil feed before first start after installation.
- Do not reuse crush washers, exhaust gaskets, or many exhaust studs; they are single-use.
- If you remove the CHRA and don’t have it dynamically balanced afterward, the turbo will fail prematurely. For most beginners, replacing the complete turbo or buying a remanufactured CHRA is safer.
- Use only correct grade oil and a new oil filter after completing the job; old oil can contain debris that destroys bearings.
- Keep dirt and debris out of turbo openings—cover with clean rags during work.
- Torque specs vary by model and fastener; consult the Toyota Hilux workshop manual for exact numbers and sequences.

- Parts summary (what to buy before starting)
- Complete turbocharger assembly OR CHRA cartridge (if you intend a cartridge swap and have confidence in balancing)
- Turbo gasket kit (manifold-to-turbo, downpipe gasket, oil/coolant port gaskets)
- Oil feed line and oil return line (or rebuild/replace as needed)
- Copper crush washers for banjo bolts (new)
- New exhaust studs/nuts or bolts if old ones are corroded
- New intercooler hoses and T-bolt clamps (if aged)
- New air filter and oil filter, plus engine oil
- Wastegate actuator (if diagnostic indicates failure)
- Anti-seize for exhaust hardware (as recommended)
- Brake cleaner, rags, and thread locker only where specified by manual

- When to call a professional
- You find metal shavings in oil or turbo oil passages.
- Compressor or turbine blades are chipped, bent, or rub the housing.
- You plan to disassemble the CHRA and cannot get access to a turbo balancing service.
- Exhaust or head studs snap in the head — requires extraction or head work.
- You prefer a warranty and quick, accurate rebuild; professional turbos typically come balanced and tested.

- Final checklist before you finish
- All bolts torqued to spec, new gaskets and crush washers installed.
- Oil and coolant filled to correct levels; oil filter replaced.
- No leaks at idle; actuator and boost control operate correctly.
- Drive gently for first 200 km to allow seals to bed; avoid heavy loads/short trips.

- Concise safety reminder
- Turbo work involves pressurized oil, hot exhaust components, and critical balancing. If you lack confidence or the job requires CHRA disassembly and balancing, get a remanufactured turbo or use a reputable turbo rebuilder.

- Quick recommendation for a beginner
- Buy a quality remanufactured or OEM complete turbo and replace the associated gaskets, oil lines, crush washers, and clamps. This minimizes special-tool needs and avoids the critical balancing step.
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